First impressions: California Zephyr, CHI-RNO

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Cara

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My husband and I recently decided to visit Lake Tahoe, and luckily I had enough AGR points to get us a roomette on the California Zephyr between Chicago and Reno. I take the Lincoln service between Chicago and St. Louis relatively frequently, and I’ve taken the Acela once, but that’s about it. My husband had previously taken the Empire Builder between Seattle and Chicago, in coach. So this was my first long-distance train, and for both of us it was our first time in a sleeper.

Sleeper car

My first impression of the roomette was my, this is adorable! Definitely small, but in a cozy way, we never felt cramped. We had stowed our larger bags downstairs and just brought our smaller carry-ons into the roomette with us. I was impressed with the use of space in the room, such as the trash can tucked into the shelves which also served as stairs to the upper bunk.

Our sleeper car attendant introduced himself after we boarded. He was friendly but not super open, and we felt a little timid about bothering him with requests. We ended up setting up our beds ourselves and taking them back down in the morning. We heard other passengers using their call buttons to ask the SCA to set up/take down their beds. Really the only time we ever interacted with him after the initial introduction was to request lunch in our room on the second day. Even then, we first asked the dining car attendant if we could place an order to go, but he said we had to arrange this through the SCA.

We loved having a room to retreat to. It made such a huge difference just for the quiet and privacy it afforded, not to mention flat beds! I took the upper bunk, which was fine, but I do wish I’d gotten to look out the window at night. I woke up frequently as it was and it would have been neat to be able to glance out the window to see what I could see. My husband said that he enjoyed seeing Omaha and Salt Lake City at night.

I took one shower on board. I could have waited, to be honest, but I was curious about the facilities. There was no competition for the shower even with a full sleeper car, and there was plenty of hot water. The only thing I found difficult was getting dressed in the changing area while still wearing my flip-flops!

Dining

I know many love meeting people on the trains, but I have to confess that as two introverts we were not fans of the community seating in the diner. Our first meal (dinner the first night) we listened to a blowhard at the adjacent table mansplain current events to his two female dinner companions. Our own tablemates were very nice, and we were glad not to have been seated with the mansplainer, but it still felt a little awkward. At breakfast the next morning, we were seated with two solo travelers. One was a complete downer who complained constantly, about the train and everything else. He was also sick, and was coughing across the table. It was not the most cheerful experience for two people fairly new to train travel. The other was much more of an optimist. The three of us tried to counteract the bellyaching, but there was only so much we could do.

We went to the lounge car after breakfast in the morning, before the train stopped in Denver. We spent the morning in the lounge car, but it was so noisy that we retreated to the quiet of our room for lunch. (We still got a gorgeous view from our room, and we felt we appreciated it more without the distractions of the lounge car. As a bonus we figured we were freeing up space for a few coach passengers to enjoy the lounge.) We rang our sleeper car attendant, who was cordial enough about bringing lunch to us, but it seemed like a big production. We decided that it would be easier from then on to eat in the diner, even though we were not happy with community seating. I know people say it’s a great way to meet people, but we didn’t find that to be the case, as conversations were superficial and mainly revolved around train travel and people’s previous Amtrak experiences. Not a place to make lifelong friends I don’t think, although we did have one or two lively conversations.

The food was fine, but I wished they could change up the menu somehow. I was surprised that even the vegetable medley was the same every day. In our case it was roasted corn, which was delicious as a side dish for dinner, but would have been really strange folded into an omelet at breakfast! Desserts were wonderful; I had the chocolate mousse parfait twice and the cheesecake once.

There was some sort of snafu at each meal, it seemed. At our first dinner, the attendant brought the wrong meal for one of our companions and seemed to want to force it on him; the passenger had to firmly insist that he bring the correct meal out. (He had brought the healthy choice meal instead of the more robust meal that the passenger had ordered, a big difference!) At our second dinner, I ordered the pasta and was brought the mahi mahi. The attendant looked at the card where he had clearly marked that I ordered the pasta. I ended up just taking the fish instead of waiting for the pasta, but the attendant said he was going to have to do some “paperwork” to fix the order, so I felt like it was an inconvenience no matter what I did.

All in all, while we were grateful for hot meals being included with the roomette, we would rather have taken our meals in private. In the future, I think I would pack a lot of my own food and/or make use of the cafe car, and maybe take just one meal per day in the diner. I really wish that the dining car would be more accommodating of allowing meals to go.

TL;DR

Amtrak was a great way to travel out west. The scenery was gorgeous and I truly felt that the voyage was as important as the destination. I think two days was just enough time to feel like we’d really experienced rail travel, without getting so stir crazy that we couldn’t wait to get off. Having a room made all the difference. Hot meals were appreciated but the community seating was awkward and we would have preferred taking meals in our room.
 
Sorry to hear you had a SCA that was barely there for you. You can get all your meals in your room if you want. That is part of his/her job. But, please do give plenty of advance notice that you want this so s/he can arrange for this around his/her other responsibilities.
 
I agree with your views on the Community seating in the diner. I find it often awkward and the conversation just seems to be about Amtrak ( raves and bitches) I have long found it much more enjoyable having meals in room and making sure my TA gets and appropriate tip for bring meals. (I do usually have one dinner in the diner car but am often disappointed by the staff and seemed like I am rushed) Thank you for your prescriptive and affirming my own opinions,
 
Thanks for the commentary! I can understand being put-off by people who are tone-deaf to their companions. I try to be sensitive to body language, and if my table-mates seem reserved, I just contemplate the view and wish them a pleasant trip.

I love the word "mansplain" haha! It exactly describes those self-important guys who think that just because they are male, that automatically means they know more about everyting.

On the positive side, I have met a couple of life-long friends on train journeys, and many, many people who were so pleasant that I went out of my way to sit with them more than one time. Just a tip for your next trip: if you meet someone you'd prefer to sit with for a meal, just arrange a time with them for you all to go down and firmly state the total number in the group, and you will be seated together. If there is a doubt that you can all get reservations at the same time, designate a person to reserve a time for the whole party. This worked for a goup of us older women, that hung together for two days on the EB, the time I was traveling alone.
 
Community seating can be anything from boring as heck to one of the highlights of the trip. It depends on how much you are good at conversing, and how well you can bring out the other person. Unless you have a fantastic train story (I have a few polished routines) it is best to use that to break the ice and move on though. Career, children/family/pets, travel in general, and feeling people out are good starts.

I personally enjoy peoples arguments for things they are impassioned and knowledgable about. The more you learn, the better you understand, and it's a compounding process.
 
I do appreciate that our being so reserved was probably a significant factor in how the conversations (or lack thereof) went. I'm sure several of our dining companions were disappointed to be seated with such a quiet couple!

That's why I wish the community seating weren't forced. Make it easier for people who want to dine alone to do so, and let those who enjoy meeting new people share meals in the dining car. It seems like it would be win-win as it would leave like-minded, enthusiastic people sitting with each other in the diner.
 
It's interesting how passenger rail seems to attract introverts even though Amtrak staff seem rather hesitant to help anyone who doesn't act like an extrovert.

I love the word "mansplain" haha! It exactly describes those self-important guys who think that just because they are male, that automatically means they know more about everyting.
I felt that portion of the review stuck out like a sore thumb and may have said as much about the author as anyone else.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I felt that portion of the review stuck out like a sore thumb and may have said as much about the author as anyone else.
Well, Devil, some people just don't like to argue with someone who is telling them that everything they think is wrong (my Hubby's one of those). I'm the kind to try and judge the value of the argument, i.e. how likely am I to change someone's mind, and how important is it to *me* that they see things my way, or at least allow that I'm as educated and entitled to my opinion as they are. Most often, in the case of strangers, I just mentally roll my eyes and think to myself "what a rude person", and try to change the subject to something non-controversial.

I don't run into many folks who fit that category, especially on the train, but one in particular does come to mind. After he and his wife left the table, the other woman and I sat and talked over our tea for another hour, till they kicked us out of the lounge/diner as we rolled into Boston. We had a lot to talk about (natural/healthy food, mostly), and I was so interested to hear about her grass-fed beef ranch in upstate New York. I don't have to agree with people in order to enjoy talking with them, but I don't appreciate someone implying that I don't have a right to disagree, and that is what the OP seems to have been talking about.
 
That's why I wish the community seating weren't forced. Make it easier for people who want to dine alone to do so, and let those who enjoy meeting new people share meals in the dining car. It seems like it would be win-win as it would leave like-minded, enthusiastic people sitting with each other in the diner.
Amtrak does it for efficiency, not to make anyone feel awkward.

They are very limited in the amount of tables they have in each dining car, so it's just more efficient to see that every seat is being used.

There is one exception... the Coast Starlight's wonderful Pacific Parlour car. They do not do community seating there because the tables are much smaller than in the regular dining car (built to the size of people in the 1950's!). My fiancée and I liked the "romantic" feel of a table for 2... but we are both rather tall so we ended up knocking knees a lot sitting across from each other.
 
You coming to Reno? What'd you think about all those suspicious people hanging around Downtown?

I don't use the showers on Amtrak. At least I hope you didn't wear flip-flops throughout the train, they are terrible footwear for travelling.

So, what did this one smell like? My last ride on the CZ didn't smell good at all, so I'm interested. It's got to smell like something, any vehicle isn't going to smell like nothing. Actually I'm kinda baffled as to why some people forget that a train is a vehicle, LOL.
 
That's why I wish the community seating weren't forced. Make it easier for people who want to dine alone to do so, and let those who enjoy meeting new people share meals in the dining car. It seems like it would be win-win as it would leave like-minded, enthusiastic people sitting with each other in the diner.
Amtrak does it for efficiency, not to make anyone feel awkward.

They are very limited in the amount of tables they have in each dining car, so it's just more efficient to see that every seat is being used.

There is one exception... the Coast Starlight's wonderful Pacific Parlour car. They do not do community seating there because the tables are much smaller than in the regular dining car (built to the size of people in the 1950's!). My fiancée and I liked the "romantic" feel of a table for 2... but we are both rather tall so we ended up knocking knees a lot sitting across from each other.
I should have been clearer... I definitely understand why they have tables for four, what I would have loved would be an easier way to get meals to go. We were told that we could not order them ourselves and had to arrange it through our SCA. It added an additional step to the process and seemed like a hassle for the SCA who had to drop off menus, come back for our order, place the order, pick it up, and deliver it. (I would guess picking up the tray would typically be another step, but he never came back for it...) I'm sure there is a reason that they discourage in-room dining as well, I'm just making an observation, even if it is a pipe dream.

You coming to Reno? What'd you think about all those suspicious people hanging around Downtown?

I don't use the showers on Amtrak. At least I hope you didn't wear flip-flops throughout the train, they are terrible footwear for travelling.

So, what did this one smell like? My last ride on the CZ didn't smell good at all, so I'm interested. It's got to smell like something, any vehicle isn't going to smell like nothing. Actually I'm kinda baffled as to why some people forget that a train is a vehicle, LOL.
No, the flip-flops were strictly for the shower. I wore sneakers throughout the train.

I didn't notice a smell, but I got sick about halfway through, perhaps from the guy coughing across from me in the dining car, or maybe we both got it from the same place.
 
You coming to Reno? What'd you think about all those suspicious people hanging around Downtown?

I don't use the showers on Amtrak. At least I hope you didn't wear flip-flops throughout the train, they are terrible footwear for travelling.

So, what did this one smell like? My last ride on the CZ didn't smell good at all, so I'm interested. It's got to smell like something, any vehicle isn't going to smell like nothing. Actually I'm kinda baffled as to why some people forget that a train is a vehicle, LOL.
No, the flip-flops were strictly for the shower. I wore sneakers throughout the train.

I didn't notice a smell, but I got sick about halfway through, perhaps from the guy coughing across from me in the dining car, or maybe we both got it from the same place.
No smell at all? I guess your nose just got used to it. I agree with the sneakers, I always wear sneakers when I travel. Just watch yourself in Reno, this city isn't very safe, and unlike other cities with obvious "danger zones", here something bad could happen anywhere, even smack in the middle of Downtown.
 
I had no idea that my choice of footwear would be so controversial. Are you guys always this welcoming to newbies or did I touch a nerve with the mansplainer thing?

I thought a fresh perspective from a newbie might be interesting but apparently I was wrong. Safe and happy travels everyone.
 
Cara, I never know what to call that type of footwear -- "sneakers" seems as good a name as any to me, much quicker and easier to say than "jogging/running shoes" (I don't jog or run), or "light hikers" (what mine were called on the LL Bean website when I bought them). So don't let a couple of guys who love to be cantankerous just for entertainment drive you away! :giggle:

I noticed several people really *appreciated* your comments, me included!
 
Cara, I never know what to call that type of footwear -- "sneakers" seems as good a name as any to me, much quicker and easier to say than "jogging/running shoes" (I don't jog or run), or "light hikers" (what mine were called on the LL Bean website when I bought them). So don't let a couple of guys who love to be cantankerous just for entertainment drive you away! :giggle:

I noticed several people really *appreciated* your comments, me included!
I couldn't agree more. I always like a fresh perspective about Amtrak travel. While I don't consider myself an old hand at Amtrak travel, I do have several trips under my belt (along with too much belly :lol: ) and I like to hear what newcomers have to say about it. I'm not at all outgoing, but find the dining car experience enjoyable. I do a lot of my traveling with my uncle who could engage in lively conversation with a cigar store Indian. So at mealtimes I let him do all the talking which takes the pressure off me. Though when on my own, I stil find it enjoyable. For those like yourself who do not enjoy it all that much, part of your SCA's duties is to accomodate those people who wish to dine in their rooms. They shouldn't act as though it is a big imposition on them. And, yeah, don't let some people who like to argue just for the sake of arguing and for no other reason put you off. The best way I've found to engage those types is not to engage them. Pretty soon it isn't fun when you keep throwing out arguments and get no response. And, finally, in response to mansplainer, my feelings, had I come up with that terminology, would be summed up in a portion of the final verse of one of my favorite songs:

"If any of you feel offended

stick your head a a barrel

of sh-aving cream!" :lol: :lol: :lol:

*From Shaving Cream---By Benny Bell and Paul Wynn
 
I had no idea that my choice of footwear would be so controversial. Are you guys always this welcoming to newbies or did I touch a nerve with the mansplainer thing?

I thought a fresh perspective from a newbie might be interesting but apparently I was wrong. Safe and happy travels everyone.
Cara, not to worry. They do like to haze newbies here, and you probably did hit a nerve but I thought "mansplain" was funny. Actually that should not really bother anyone, at least not anyone who can take a joke as well as make one. I enjoyed your trip report, you reported what you liked and didn't like, from your own honest viewpoint and I don't see a thing wrong with that.

Thanks for sharing your trip experiences.
 
I apologize if I came across negatively. I guess I've been wearing boots for so long, the idea of a sneaker kinda hit me from left field. And I know exactly what you mean by mansplaining. I personally find people doing it hilarious.
 
I live in Reno, so I was just trying to help. Lake Tahoe's overrated IMO, it's too cold. The casinos are filled with smoke. Reno's a great little city but you have to watch out for danger. Not exactly the best place for a vacation.

I wasn't trying to cause a controversy with the footwear, it's just that improperly-dressed people cause trouble for themselves and for others. If you're in Reno right now, you might see what I'm talking about.

Don't know what a mansplainer is, honesty, never even heard the word! :)
 
Cara, don't let a few posters turn you away. AU is a great place. They're like family. Like most families, not everyone gets along.
 
I had no idea that my choice of footwear would be so controversial. Are you guys always this welcoming to newbies or did I touch a nerve with the mansplainer thing?

I thought a fresh perspective from a newbie might be interesting but apparently I was wrong. Safe and happy travels everyone.
Cara, not to worry. They do like to haze newbies here, and you probably did hit a nerve but I thought "mansplain" was funny. Actually that should not really bother anyone, at least not anyone who can take a joke as well as make one. I enjoyed your trip report, you reported what you liked and didn't like, from your own honest viewpoint and I don't see a thing wrong with that.

Thanks for sharing your trip experiences.
I had never heard "mansplain" before and kinda like it!

As for the community dining....I have had only ONE bad experience, on the TE between Texarkana and Little Rock. Was at the oddball three seated tables in the CCC and the two ladies I was with were not too happy. So I just kept quiet. All others, especially with the g/f have been great! Of course, she can carry on a conversation with a stick......

On the EB last summer, we met a guy in the Lounge at Portland and it turned out his room was across from ours, so we did meals together and always had a +1, so we had great conversation and shared friendship throughout the trip.
 
The most community dining problems I've had is on the CZ, they always seem to have the most arrogant passengers, especially in the summer. Last time I had some kind of interaction like this:

Me: "Good morning."

Man across table: "Uh, hi."

Me: "Train got stuck behind a rockslide, now we're late four hours."

"(moves head)"

"Yep. So where are you going? I'm heading for Chicago."

"(no reaction)"

We didn't interact more after that, apparently it's hard to interact with half of the pax on the train. Prehaps this particular man was trying to smuggle drugs, he looked nervous as he moved about out Sleeper and didn't interact with the attendant. Another man kept talking about religion and morality, then got angry when I tried to talk about trains. Someone else missed his connection to the CL and wouldn't believe me when I told him the LSL's departure time, "Yeah, you think you work for Amtrak?"

Now I'd rather not talk, but when you sit at community seating you are expected to at least greet the others. I have learned to keep my mouth shut on the train.
 
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