What camera?

[Alice]

This camera got very good reviews for entry level photographers when it first came out in 2002. You'll benefit by reading complete reviews (do a web search) because some of them give hints on how to use it. Retrovo has the manual if you don't. Sony has a link to videos with some good ideas. Imaging Resource's test is still online. This is just a start, there is a lot out there about this camera.

You have more manual controls than most point-and-shoot cameras. You get to them in "set up" on the wheel. For this shot, you have EV adjustment -2 to +2 in 1/3 increments. Use the minus direction to darken photos, plus to lighten them. You might also experiment with manual focus, or with center auto-focus (so it focuses on just one point in the crosshairs in the center).

Sony's menu system is no fun and gets panned in pretty much all their pocket cameras. When I was using one as a primary camera, I'd figure out in advance what kind of photos I planned and set for that. But first I took a ton of photos where I'd take photo, change one setting, repeat, writing down image numbers and settings so I'd know what I did later when I put them on the computer.

Your flash might not be buggy, it might be you don't know how to use it. Sony's pocket cameras have a weak flash, only good for around 10 feet. So if you are shooting in landscape mode on scene setting, it won't fire no matter what settings you use. There is more info about it online.

That's a good little camera you've got, well worth learning to use all its capabilities.

 

[CHamilton]

Here's a fascinating article about taking concert pics with the pocket Sony RX-100. I've never used the camera, but the photos are amazing. And there are some similarities between the challenges of taking pictures of trains, and taking pictures at concerts. What do the AU pros think?

 

[Peter KG6LSE]

Its a mini SLR sensor in a Point and shooot body ........ Its a cute cam but If you are gonna blow some money

get a Micro 4/3s panasonic G6 or G5 .. Its a open system with many lens to play with and can rival most sub 2 grand SLRs ..

I have 2 APS-H canon 1D cams * 1.3 crop* Frankly If I had to do it all over again I would use MFT ( micro 4/3) they hold like a large point and shoot Yet are as good as a good SLR ! ....

remember for a fixed pixel count . a larger sensor will allwas have more gain in the photocells and have less ISO noise from Amp-ing the photo after the fact .

costco had a pani G5 with 2 lens for under 700 bucks last year ......

here is the G6

http://www.panasonic.com/uk/consumer/cameras-camcorders/lumix-g-compact-system-cameras-dslm/dmc-g6heb.html

 

[WhoozOn1st]

Its a open system with many lens to play with...

And juggling a bunch of lenses is JUST what you wanna be doing with that once-in-a-blue-moon railroad shot pounding toward you with mere seconds left to make a decision, set up, focus, and catch it!! Yes, you'll thank yourself forever that you didn't have to rely on some simple little point-and-shoot to get a job done that only a heavy-duty DSLR and all its weighty paraphernalia could do at all. Not ITS fault you missed the shot cuz you couldn't decide what to do, or put your combination and composition together in time. Better to have that great missed shot in your own memory than any real one taken with lesser equipment.

Right?

 

[Peter KG6LSE]

Here are the trade offs........ You can get that 600$ sony and have a really BAD 3.6 zoom ..OR get a " super zoom " point and shoot * bridge cam * and have a cam phone sized sensor .

That sony has a very open lense at F1.8 No wonder they got the low light performance they did . that with a larger sensor is a killer cam for one thing . Low light ................ the zoom is very weak .

Or you can just get a ILC that has a Mid sized sensor and get a good lens.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/674725-REG/Olympus_261504_M_Zuiko_Digital_ED_14_150mm.html

14-150 is FAR more range then the sony ........

Or

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/968587-REG/panasonic_14_140mm_f_3_5_5_6_ois_micro.html

If you want just range and not noise quality then get the FZ-200 .. its got a F2.8 28-600 mm range and is a

VERY good balance of a cam...... Heck its the ONLY non ILC/SLR on the market with a Mic in jack!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This was shoot on the Pana FZ-200 http://www.flickr.com/photos/peterthethinker/9092981459/sizes/h/

its a VERY nice cam . but you can tell it has noise ......

At the very least with a F2.8 I can let a TON more light in the poor sensor then any other bridge type Point and shoot .

remember the FZ-200 is not a normal point and shoot but a * bridge * cam ....

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/880958-REG/Panasonic_dmc_fz200k_Lumix_FZ200_Digital_Camera.html

the sony is also a bridge in its own way .

Issue #2 Point and shoots have to boot up !

I have lost more pics from the boot time then any other reason .

An SLR and most ILCs have no boot issues ... no lens to extend .. its CLick photo.

Issue #3 SLRs and ILCs have better AF then a normal point and shoot . ( Some bridge cams have a OK AF .)

I dont think most people here need a true * SLR * . but would be better off with a ILC 4/3s ........ its easy half the size and weight .

When I got in to photoprhy the 4/3s was a stunted system ....... Its now in many ways better then nikon or canon .

The mount fits the sensor and the lens are also matched to the sensor .and have VERY VERY fast AF .

in fact they smoke the AF on many of the top gear from both canon and nikon .

By the way .... If a shot is that needed . then get more then one body Like I did .

and then you have the wanted shot AND it looks good too.........no fiddle ... I have a full time backup and I can let others use the spare body and i dont have to swap lens .

Yea you can fiddle with a point and shoot or heck my cam phone , but I am not one whom wants a muddy pic due to a stunted sensor ............

might as well use a silly GoPro for all your needs as its soo small and has a Fixed focus and its lens is so wide as long as the thing is in the direction of the wanted shot you can crop in later ,,,,,,,,,

 

[Ryan]

Its a open system with many lens to play with...

And juggling a bunch of lenses is JUST what you wanna be doing with that once-in-a-blue-moon railroad shot pounding toward you with mere seconds left to make a decision, set up, focus, and catch it!! Yes, you'll thank yourself forever that you didn't have to rely on some simple little point-and-shoot to get a job done that only a heavy-duty DSLR and all its weighty paraphernalia could do at all. Not ITS fault you missed the shot cuz you couldn't decide what to do, or put your combination and composition together in time. Better to have that great missed shot in your own memory than any real one taken with lesser equipment.

Right?

Prior Proper Planning Prevents ****-Poor Performance.
Having the right lens on the camera at all times is second nature at this point.

 

[Peter KG6LSE]

Exactly Ryan ,, It takes only a few min of reading to learn what glass is warranted for a trip or a shot .

Eg I never leave my 50mm Prime on unless I know I need superlow light use Or I need to blow out the back of a photo .

My short lens the EF 24-85 USM is my one size fits all lens....... If I need more range in a single then I ll rent the 28-300 L .

 

[jis]

True that. I find that a versatile lens like the 18-200 AFS VR stays on my Nikon DSLR on most occasions and is an excellent lens for most train rides. If I a doing static rail fanning at places like Priceton Jct. I go for the 55-300mm instead. It seldom involves shuffling lenses frequently and on the fly.

 

[Peter KG6LSE]

I have heard great things about that lens..

Some day I WILL own the EF 28-300 L IS USM.... i rented it once and yea its HUGE but sans the F range being just so-so . Its Truly a one size fits all......

For now I have a EF 24-85 F3.5-4.5 USM2 .... sadly After fukisema canon did not re-start production .

Its a 400 buck lens but has FULL time Man over ride on the focus! just like the L series ! . So I can grab and twist and I dont mess up the guts ..

I also have a EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM .

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/397663-USA/Canon_0345B002_EF_70_300mm_f_4_5_6_IS.html

My uncle is gonna sell to me in the spring . his 24-105 F4 L

Oh Heck I need to let you all in on my train shots secret..

The best way to really choke out the extra light IF you can get your cam near the window is to use a CV boot !

OR a rubber lens hood .... it lets you Like bellows were in the Old days . make a area light tight.

you can jam the hood against the window and it wont mar it . and it docks quite nice .

 

[Ryan]

True that. I find that a versatile lens like the 18-200 AFS VR stays on my Nikon DSLR on most occasions and is an excellent lens for most train rides.

I utterly love that lens and wish that there were something comparable in FX-land. My 28-200 AF-D isn't anywhere near as nice.

 

[Peter KG6LSE]

I did some chatting with the Sony Rep . at Frys and Tried out the RX-100 . Its not a bad cam . but the glass has like I said ... Really bad zoom range.

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-DSCRX10-Cybershot-Digital-Camera/dp/B00FRHTSMW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388200039&sr=8-1&keywords=RX-10

I give you a cam that can do VERY much what a ILC can .........

Better pony up cash . 1300 MSRP is not THAT great unless you are never ever gonna want to swap glass .

If you must have a fixed lens cam then the RX 10 and the FZ-200 are the top 2

* granted the FZ is half the price on a bad day .