Trip to UK and Ireland Aug/Sept 2022

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Tuesday 6 September

This was the big day of our trip to Ireland via train and ferry. I discovered the day before that the rail timetable had changed and now required a change of trains at Crewe resulting in a later arrival at Holyhead with only 20 minutes to catch the ferry. With fingers crossed we checked out of the hotel and headed for Euston where things seemed to be running ok at least for operator Avanti West Coast.

Our 0910 train was actually headed for Edinburgh with Crewe as the first stop. We boarded carriage B toward the front and found that our seat reservation was already occupied by someone whose ticket also showed the same numbers. We took another pair of seats hoping no one would show up to claim them as the train was not totally full. We lucked out, perhaps the seats had been reserved by someone further down the line. Train departed on time and the ride was very smooth. Like the Acela they seem to use active tilting to allow them to speed through curves.

We arrived Crewe in time and had almost an hour for the Holyhead connection. The connection is across platform (6 to 11) so is fairly convenient even with luggage. Our 5 car DMU set pulled up and we departed on time.
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As you can see the train was only sparsely occupied and most of the people had gotten off by Bangor leaving just a few for the ferry connection.

The ride to Holyhead is very scenic along the North Wales coast. I missed seeing the sign for the station with the longest name in Britain, usually abbreviated Llanfair P. G.

At Holyhead things were a bit confusing due to construction; fortunately there were several that had done it before we could follow. Got to the Irish Ferries desk to find they had closed ( you have to be there 30 minutes before departure) and directed us to Stena. The lady at Stena had no problem in booking us on their sailing which was in about an hour, and accepted our RailSail tickets. We checked in our luggage then waited in the lounge for departure.

Upon departing you board a bus that takes you out to the ship and actually drives on board along with many tractor trailers making the crossing. There you unload and go up the stairs to the passenger areas.

The ferry was well equipped with a lounge where you can buy food and drink, another area where people were watching a football match, and a game room. You can also rent cabins for the 3+ hour voyage. We first went up on deck to get one last look at Britain as we departed.

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The ride wasn't bad as the Irish Sea was fairly calm that day, the sun even peeking out a few times. We arrived at Dublin port on time at 1800. The disembarking was a little confusing as initially they never said where to go. Fortunately again there were those that had "been there done that" and knew to go to deck 5 where a bus would pull up and take us off the boat. The bus arrived and took us to the ferry building where we had our passports checked and stamped then picked up our luggage from a carousel like at the airport.

I was expecting taxis outside but there were none. The Stena people advised us that it was hard to get a taxi here, best bet was to wait for the Nolan bus that would take you to Connolly station and get one from there. While we were waiting for the bus, I saw two English men getting into a taxi they had likely called for ahead of time. I asked them if it was ok to share the cab and they agreed. We went off on a somewhat breakneck ride into the city. The two gentlemen were there for a short trip to sample the pub life in Dublin before returning home and had obviously done this a few times.

Once we pulled up to our hotel I tried paying for the fare with my card but the driver wouldn't accept it. I was not expecting this since all the cabs in London had had no issues doing card payments. The two gentlemen said no problem it's in us, you can pay us back if we ever meet in the US. I thanked them profusely and we headed for the hotel.

We had booked the Gresham on O'Connell st not far from the spire and the historic GPO, now owned by the Spanish RIU chain. It seemed to us the nicest of all the hotels we had stayed in so far. We ended up having dinner at the hotel and settled in for the night.
 
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Wednesday 7 September - first day in Ireland

We didn't have too much planned. After breakfast we took a walk around and did some shopping in particular for my son's upcoming birthday.

My wife wanted to rest a while so I walked over to the nearby Post Office the site of the 1916 Rising that put in motion what eventually became independence from Britain.
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I visited the little museum there that tells of the events leading to the Rising and the subsequent independence movement.

After a bite to eat including a wonderful cheese plate we took one of the hop on hop off bus tours to get an overview of the city. This took us around Trinity College, St. Stephen's Green and many public buildings, then west past the Guiness brewery and a large park Northwest of the city.

We ended up having dinner at the hotel restaurant again.
 
Thursday 8 September

This was the day of our trip to Galway and the Aran Islands. We had a leisurely morning as our train did not leave until 1325. After getting our luggage sorted out, we left one large suitcase with the hotel until our return just taking a small case with us. We headed for the LUAS tram stop at Abbey Road to take us to Heuston Station.

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They have 2 methods of payment. You can buy a LEAP card which can be used on the trams and buses as well as the DART suburban trains, but since we were only taking a couple of trips we elected to just buy tickets at the machines located at the stops.

The tram is fast and comfortable and soon brought us to Heuston the main station for trains to the west and southwest including Galway and Cork.

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There were plenty of places to grab a bite to eat inside while we waited. My wife got a slice of pizza whereas I having partaken of the breakfast buffet at the hotel just settled for tea

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Once our train platform was announced we proceeded to board. It was a 7 car set of the Hyundai Rotem 22000 series DMUs that handle much of Iarnrod Eireann's services.

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The initial part of the trip through suburban Dublin is on a 4 track section where we got up to 97 mph according to my phone speedometer program. After the first stop at Portarlington the line goes to single track with passing sidings at most stations. We passed a couple of freight trains all with containerized cargoes. The track seemed smooth and well maintained.

Arrival at Galway Ceannt Station was on time at 1545. Our hotel the Victoria was just a couple of blocks away. I thought of exploring the town a little but a sudden downpour dampened that idea and we settled for some drinks from the hotel bar followed by dinner. We have a long day planned the next day, a trip to the Aran Islands and the Cliffs of Moher.
 
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Friday 9 September

A couple of things I forgot to mention on yesterday's report. The scenery after leaving the Dublin area was mostly rural with fields fenced with stone walls, mostly sheep or cattle grazing especially as we got further west. The grass seemed to get greener the further we went.

At dinner we saw the news that Queen Elizabeth had died and Charles was now king. As someone born in the UK and as the only monarch I had ever known I found her passing sad although not unexpected. She was such a symbol of stability.

Friday after breakfast we headed across the street for our coach to the Moher and Aran Islands tour. The coach took us on a narrated scenic ride to the coastal town of Doolin where we boarded a ferry to Inisheer the smaller and closer of the Aran Islands. From the boat you could see the cliffs from a distance but we were to get a better view on the trip back.

At Inisheer we decided to take a ride on a horse drawn cart around the island. There is a small town at the ferry dock with a hotel and a few businesses selling food and crafts. Much of the island was fields separated with stone walls where cattle and sheep grazed. The Irish language was evident and is still used by some of the residents. After our tour we stopped at the hotel where we had just enough time for a bite to eat before the return trip.

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On return to Doolin the boat went along the cliffs so we could get a good sense of their massiveness. The underlying rock is limestone which gets eroded by the sea so the cliffs are constantly breaking off into the ocean.

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Back at Doolin we had a short coach ride to the top of the cliffs where we had a panoramic view. There was also a visitor center where you could learn about the cliffs and the flora and fauna native to the area. Also a restaurant and gift shop.

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After about an hour at the cliff top, we headed back to Galway which was about an hour and a half trip on a very winding road through the mountains.

Back in Galway we decided to go to a different place for dinner and found a nice restaurant in a nearby hotel.

The next day after breakfast we headed back to Dublin on the train. So far I have been very impressed by Irish Rail. All the trains were comfortable and ran on time. I wish the British trains were as well run. Our 930 departure was fairly full. Many American tourists including a couple from Iowa on their honeymoon.

We checked into our hotel and had lunch, then headed to an early mass at a church near St. Stephen's Green which was easily accessible via the Green Line tram. The church inside was very impressive.
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After church we went back to the hotel for drinks and a nice dinner. This weekend there was a Garth Brooks concert and the streets were packed including vendors selling cowboy hats. Also explains why the hotel was hard to get for Saturday night. Apparently US Country music is very popular in Ireland.
 
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Friday 9 September

A couple of things I forgot to mention on yesterday's report. The scenery after leaving the Dublin area was mostly rural with fields fenced with stone walls, mostly sheep or cattle grazing especially as we got further west. The grass seemed to get greener the further we went.
As they often say, it‘s green for a reason - generally the export of weather from North America 🙂.
 
Sunday 11 September

Well it is the day of our departure back to the US. I am writing this in the hotel at 6 AM. Shortly we will be going to breakfast then checking out and waiting for our bus to the airport which conveniently stops across the street from the Gresham Hotel.

Reflecting on our trip, there is much to unpack yet. We only got a brief look at Ireland, I could see spending more time here in future. Apart from visiting relatives I had not seen for a long time which was the high point of the trip, it is hard to pick any one thing that stands out, I enjoyed all the things we did.

From the standpoint of a rail enthusiast I was impressed by the system here in Ireland, a little less impressed by that in the UK which although light years ahead of what we have in the US, seems to suffer from the fragmentation due to privatization. There is also the undercurrent of labor issues brought on partly by the pandemic and the subsequent economic issues affecting countries globally, as well as politics. At least the system was resilient enough that even when we had to make last minute changes due to cancellations there were alternatives available so our trip was not significantly affected.
 
An epilogue to our trip.

Just to report on our trip home. The Aircoach arrived on time at the stop across from our hotel on O'Connell St. It was almost full and we had to grab separate seats. The trip only took a half hour and got us to the airport at 9:45 in plenty of time for our 1pm departure. We first dropped our bags at the Delta counter and got our boarding passes then proceeded to the security check which was a little more lenient than TSA - no shoe removal, just a simple metal detector instead of the full body scanners. A sign said 10 minutes for USA preclearance so we figured with 2 hours before wheels up we had plenty of time so grabbed something to eat.

The walk to preclearance involves running the gauntlet of a number of shops selling perfume, chocolate, etc. I had 10 Euros left over so I picked up some Irish chocolate to bring home. Turned out that 10 minutes was wildly optimistic We arrived at preclearance to see a huge line snaking around the building. It took about an hour to go through the 2 step process, first a boarding pass scan them down an escalator to a passport check by CBP, then a mini security check where they check the things that the US is more stringent about i.e. shoes, liquids, and electronics, and scan your carry ons again. The last part didn't take long and there were no body scans or metal detectors.

By the time we got to the gate they were already starting to board Delta One and priority passengers. We finally boarded and it looked like an on time departure but we were held at the gate for about an hour, no reason given, I assume airport congestion as there were a lot of flights departing about the same time.

The flight overall was pretty comfortable. We were served a hot lunch, I had chicken with some sort of cheesy rice thing and my wife had ravioli which she thought was pretty good. About an hour before arrival in Boston they served a snack which was either a feta cheese pastry or a chicken spring roll. I got the latter thinking it would be small like the spring roll you get at a Chinese restaurant but it ended up being bigger more like a burrito. We also got a glass of white wine which was complementary. We landed in Boston only about 15 minutes late in spite of our late departure so I assume they build some padding into the schedule.

I had arranged a shared van service with Knight since it being Sunday the trains to Worcester only run every 2 hours and I figured traffic would be light on a Sunday. Turns out that due to a lot of other travellers also arriving Sunday afternoon plus the closure of the Sumner Tunnel things were very congested. To add to that, Knight assumed our pickup was at terminal E the usual one for international flights whereas due to preclearance we arrived at terminal A. A phone call got that straightened out and eventually the van showed up with a very apologetic driver. He than had to go back to terminal E to pick up another couple then we finally got through the congestion and into the Ted Williams Tunnel. Once through the tunnel traffic eased up and we made it to Leicester around 6:30pm.

I suppose in retrospect the train might have been as fast if we had made it to South Station in time for the 5:00 pm train, but with our slightly late arrival and all the traffic congestion I don't know if the Silver line would have made it to South Station on time and the next train wasn't until 7 pm.

That evening we went out to dinner with my son and daughter in law to a nearby Spanish restaurant which was good for me as I was still somewhat full from the plane and you could get Tapas which are small plates you can share. We got caught up and told a little about our trip, much more to come later.

I guess that concludes my trip report unless I think of some things I missed.
 
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Great report; thanks for sharing. Glad you're back home with minimal delays or disruptions in these strange travel times. I'm still working through our Euro trip for later this year and have noted several points you made, especially regarding British rail travel. That still sounds easier than the airline hassles. There doesn't seem to be a day goes by without some change to our booked flights.
 
Great report; thanks for sharing. Glad you're back home with minimal delays or disruptions in these strange travel times. I'm still working through our Euro trip for later this year and have noted several points you made, especially regarding British rail travel. That still sounds easier than the airline hassles. There doesn't seem to be a day goes by without some change to our booked flights.
I too have enjoyed AM’s take on things. If you need any rail-related advice on your forthcoming trip there’s a few of us who will be glad to assist.
 
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Great report; thanks for sharing. Glad you're back home with minimal delays or disruptions in these strange travel times. I'm still working through our Euro trip for later this year and have noted several points you made, especially regarding British rail travel. That still sounds easier than the airline hassles. There doesn't seem to be a day goes by without some change to our booked flights.

Since early July until last weekend I and we have travelled into the UK by varying means.

Car from France via Eurotunnel both ways, faultless.

By camper from France via Germany and Holland using the Stena ferry from the Hook of Holland to Harwich, very efficient and enjoyable.
Return to France by Eurostar to Paris Nord then to Moulins by SNCF. Multi trains cancelled at St Pancras and staff and station didn't cope very well. They tried but they were overwhelmed. SNCF sections just very busy, it was August.

Travel by Greater Anglia train from Brentwood to Colchester and return was excellent except the outbound train had a problem with it's camera and 3 smaller stations cameras? so couldn't stop at 3 scheduled stations, mine was one of them. Station staff at Shenfield superb and went out of their way to get all the detail of the next guaranteed stop at Marks Tey and came back along the station to confirm all detail.

Flying with RyanAir from Limoges into Stansted, 'nuff said. Problem of delays with the airline in both directions, complete lack of communications with passengers, the word 'customer' doesn't exist in the RyanAir dictionary. Although flights if you take no bags at all and don't want an allocated seat are very cheap.

Transport by bus and train to and from Stansted worked very well, good modern equipment even if the stations are clunky to use they are Victorian and have character.

In general travel is more of a challenge now compared to 3 years ago but all still very do-able if you have a sense of humour (I lost my humour with RyanAir years ago, can you tell?).
 
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I very much enjoyed your trip reports!

I've made two short visits to London and one to Wales. I'd still love to see Ireland as some of my ancestors were from Ireland. The highlights in London were the Tower and Crown Jewels, some activities at Buckingham, and a visit to Selfridges. We did not ride the trains in either visit.

I'm sad about the Queen's death; I was hoping she would make it to 100. Greatly admire the lady and most of her family. I think King Charles may surprise people in a good way; at least I hope so.

Thanks for sharing your adventures.
 
Thankyou indeed for the trip report. I was especially interested in the Irish trains and routes - I've not been there but I've heard favourable things about them. I'm glad you made a safe return, I'd not want to be caught up in the travel mess that is England right now - I'd not even exchange for elsewhere in the Untied Kingdom until they have an Independent Scotland!
 
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