Trip to UK and Ireland Aug/Sept 2022

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Joined
Sep 2, 2021
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2,116
Location
The Real Maine (East of Ellsworth)
Part 1 - the flight and the first day in London

Our trip began as a 2 day drive from our home in Lubec Maine to my son and daughter in law's house near Worcester Massachusetts. The next day we left Worcester on the 2 pm MBTA train 520. As we left the station Amtrak 449 waiting for us to clear the platform. It had a sleeper cafe and at least 2 coaches.

Arrived at South Station only a couple of minutes late. We proceeded to the Silver Line platform to catch the SL1 bus to the airport. It was my first time on this line which is a Bus Rapid Transit link using dual mode buses that run off of overhead through a dedicated tunnel then switch to Diesel power upon reaching the surface. They then use the Ted Williams road tunnel to reach the airport which unfortunately means being stuck in traffic. The trip to terminal E took about an hour but not a problem as we had left plenty of time and arrived at the Delta counter in the prescribed 3 hours before departure.

There was a fairly long line but it moved reasonably quickly and we were through checkin and security in about an hour. We whiled away the time before the flight at a wine bar where we had a drink and a Mediterranean platter to tide us over until dinner on the plane.

Given all the horror stories we were edpecting the worst but the flight went very smoothly. The only unusual part was upon arriving at the gate we did not step into the usual jetway but instead a ramp down to the tarmac where we boarded a bus that took us to the plane. Something I have only experienced before at airports in the UK and in Iceland. Apparently there is a shortage of gates at Logan.

Once aboard our 767 we found the seating reasonably comfortable for coach. The meal was not bad by airline standards. I even managed to doze off for a couple of hours. The only negative was the breakfast with a rather poor excuse for an egg and cheese sandwich. At least they had something resembling English style tea. We landed at Heathrow basically on time, probably the first flight I have ever been on that didn't circle the Staines Reservoirs for an hour before landing.

Once we got off the plane the fun began. After what seemed like 10 miles of corridors we arrived at passport control. The eGates didn't work for either of us. Going through the regular line, my wife got through ok but my officer did not like my newly minted US passport for some reason. After conferring with a supervisor he grudgingly allowed me into the country. Ironic in that I was born there so technically still a British citizen.

By this time of course our bags had been circulating at "reclaim" for a while so we grabbed them and headed for the Picadilly line platform. The Underground is so much easier now that you can use any contactless card to tap in and out. It was nostalgic to ride the 1973 tube stock, the same as on our last UK trip in 2007. We changed at Hammersmith to the District line headed to our hotel at Temple. I love the new S stock on the subsurface lines, comfortable and air conditioned.

Although we were a couple of hours early the reception at Apex Temple Court let us check in. We got packed away. With an afternoon free we walked around a bit then I decided to deal with something that was bugging me. I had bought Rail and Sail tickets from London to Dublin via Holyhead but had never received an email confirmation. I decided to head to Euston to see i I could pick up the tickets.

Once at Euston I tried the ticket machine but I needed a reference number to retrieve and I did not have one. I went to the ticket office but the man there said we are Arriva West Coast and you bought them through Transport for Wakes, not our problem. He at least looked up the contact number for TfW for me.

I forgot to mention that the international plan I had purchased from my phone provider US Cellular did not work on my phone so I had to go back to the hotel where I could text them on WhatsApp over WiFi. Fortunately they were able to find my reference number. After a nice dinner at the hotel restaurant we collapsed into bed and slept for about 12 hours.

Stay tuned for part 2 coming soon.
 
Nice trip, thanks for sharing! I look forward to yalls further Adventures in the Isles!

And you're comment about the New Passport is interesting.

My Late Wife, a Canadian, had Permanent Residdnt Staus here,( aka Green Card) and as a Canadian Citizen still had her Passport, which she had just renewed for our last trip to the Frozen North before her passing.

The less than Friendly Agent @ Pearson looked @ her Green Card and said do you have a Passport?

She showed him her newly issued Canadian Passport and he asked why it was necessary to have one if she was living in the US as a Permanent Resident?

She then told him she was proud of her Canadian Citizenship, and that at the time the US didn't allow Dual Citizenship for Canadians!(but Canada did allow Dual Citizenship!!!)
 
Part 1 - the flight and the first day in London

Our trip began as a 2 day drive from our home in Lubec Maine to my son and daughter in law's house near Worcester Massachusetts. The next day we left Worcester on the 2 pm MBTA train 520. As we left the station Amtrak 449 waiting for us to clear the platform. It had a sleeper cafe and at least 2 coaches.

Arrived at South Station only a couple of minutes late. We proceeded to the Silver Line platform to catch the SL1 bus to the airport. It was my first time on this line which is a Bus Rapid Transit link using dual mode buses that run off of overhead through a dedicated tunnel then switch to Diesel power upon reaching the surface. They then use the Ted Williams road tunnel to reach the airport which unfortunately means being stuck in traffic. The trip to terminal E took about an hour but not a problem as we had left plenty of time and arrived at the Delta counter in the prescribed 3 hours before departure.

There was a fairly long line but it moved reasonably quickly and we were through checkin and security in about an hour. We whiled away the time before the flight at a wine bar where we had a drink and a Mediterranean platter to tide us over until dinner on the plane.

Given all the horror stories we were edpecting the worst but the flight went very smoothly. The only unusual part was upon arriving at the gate we did not step into the usual jetway but instead a ramp down to the tarmac where we boarded a bus that took us to the plane. Something I have only experienced before at airports in the UK and in Iceland. Apparently there is a shortage of gates at Logan.

Once aboard our 767 we found the seating reasonably comfortable for coach. The meal was not bad by airline standards. I even managed to doze off for a couple of hours. The only negative was the breakfast with a rather poor excuse for an egg and cheese sandwich. At least they had something resembling English style tea. We landed at Heathrow basically on time, probably the first flight I have ever been on that didn't circle the Staines Reservoirs for an hour before landing.

Once we got off the plane the fun began. After what seemed like 10 miles of corridors we arrived at passport control. The eGates didn't work for either of us. Going through the regular line, my wife got through ok but my officer did not like my newly minted US passport for some reason. After conferring with a supervisor he grudgingly allowed me into the country. Ironic in that I was born there so technically still a British citizen.

By this time of course our bags had been circulating at "reclaim" for a while so we grabbed them and headed for the Picadilly line platform. The Underground is so much easier now that you can use any contactless card to tap in and out. It was nostalgic to ride the 1973 tube stock, the same as on our last UK trip in 2007. We changed at Hammersmith to the District line headed to our hotel at Temple. I love the new S stock on the subsurface lines, comfortable and air conditioned.

Although we were a couple of hours early the reception at Apex Temple Court let us check in. We got packed away. With an afternoon free we walked around a bit then I decided to deal with something that was bugging me. I had bought Rail and Sail tickets from London to Dublin via Holyhead but had never received an email confirmation. I decided to head to Euston to see i I could pick up the tickets.

Once at Euston I tried the ticket machine but I needed a reference number to retrieve and I did not have one. I went to the ticket office but the man there said we are Arriva West Coast and you bought them through Transport for Wakes, not our problem. He at least looked up the contact number for TfW for me.

I forgot to mention that the international plan I had purchased from my phone provider US Cellular did not work on my phone so I had to go back to the hotel where I could text them on WhatsApp over WiFi. Fortunately they were able to find my reference number. After a nice dinner at the hotel restaurant we collapsed into bed and slept for about 12 hours.

Stay tuned for part 2 coming soon.
Nice account. If the pandemic had not intervened we would have stayed in Lubec ME last September. Another time, though - it’s on my proposed eccentric route from Boston to Prince Edward Island via Campobello and two ferries.
You’re right about the new S-stock on the sub-surface lines. The full-width gangways and air-con make a huge difference.
 
Interesting report, thanks. My wife and I are considering a trip to Ireland/Wales and this gives us lots of ideas. This would be new territory for us so appreciate the travel details. We generally rely on travel books like Rick Steve’s’ but like hearing from someone who enjoys the train/ferry part of the trip too.
 
I'm getting a bit behind here. I finally finished Day 1 of the trip!

Part 2 - first day in London

We had decided for our first day to see the Old Bailey in the morning then go to Selfridges. My wife as a former trained court reporter has always been fascinated by courtroom trials so we hoped to be able to sit in on one. Our hotel is only a few blocks from the Central Criminal Courts. After an abortive attempt we finally found the entrance to line up for the visitor's gallery. We ended up viewing a trial where a member of a gang had stabbed a rival and they were trying to determine if it was self defense or a deliberate killing. The defendant was on the stand being questioned by the prosecutor then by his counsel. It was pretty much like anything you have seen on TV with counsel and judge wearing wigs. One interesting thing they do in the UK is the jury are allowed to submit questions to clarify things in the testimony. This resulted in an objection by a defense counsel as he thought some of the questions went too far so they had to dismiss the jury to discuss it.

We left at the lunch break and headed to Euston to see if I could now buy my tickets now that I had the reference. Off to the Underground this time the Northern Line. The Underground is so convenient and so frequent, most times we only had to wait no more than 4 minutes for a train. There is a lot of walking up and down stairs especially going between lines. My wife had twisted her ankle back at home so she had to take it slowly. We were able to find a store that sold a collapsible cane which helped a lot. It also caused people on the Underground to give up their seat for her. I was touched how many times that happened, not something I would have expected in Boston.

Well the ticket purchase was successful. So back on the Underground, this time the Northern and Central line to Selfridges. We had always wanted to see this store after watching the "Mr Selfridge" series on PBS. Oxford street and the store were jammed with people. I have never seen anything like it. It was a Bank Holiday weekend and the weather was good maybe that's why.

We didn't do much shopping but ended up at a nice restaurant with big windows looking out over Oxford St. We shared a scallop appetizer then both had prawn curry. Back to the hotel this time via the Jubilee Line where I got to check out the platform edge doors at embankment station, being the first stop on the Jubilee Line Extension.
 
I'm getting a bit behind here. I finally finished Day 1 of the trip!

Part 2 - first day in London

We had decided for our first day to see the Old Bailey in the morning then go to Selfridges. My wife as a former trained court reporter has always been fascinated by courtroom trials so we hoped to be able to sit in on one. Our hotel is only a few blocks from the Central Criminal Courts. After an abortive attempt we finally found the entrance to line up for the visitor's gallery. We ended up viewing a trial where a member of a gang had stabbed a rival and they were trying to determine if it was self defense or a deliberate killing. The defendant was on the stand being questioned by the prosecutor then by his counsel. It was pretty much like anything you have seen on TV with counsel and judge wearing wigs. One interesting thing they do in the UK is the jury are allowed to submit questions to clarify things in the testimony. This resulted in an objection by a defense counsel as he thought some of the questions went too far so they had to dismiss the jury to discuss it.

Well the ticket purchase was successful. So back on the Underground, this time the Northern and Central line to Selfridges. We had always wanted to see this store after watching the "Mr Selfridge" series on PBS. Oxford street and the store were jammed with people. I have never seen anything like it. It was a Bank Holiday weekend and the weather was good maybe that's why.
Glad you got the tickets sorted. The August Bank Holiday in England and Wales (Scotland sticks to the first weekend in August, as the schools have already gone back there) is a bitter-sweet affair, with definite shades of the prison-house in the shape of back to school (or work). I suppose Labor Day is similar in the US. The weather this weekend has been unusually pleasant, as you say.

You’re quite right to do everything on foot or by public transport. It’s the only way to see cities - even if my wife is generally cursing me by the end of each day.
 
Part 3 - Day 2 Saturday

Our itinerary for our 2nd day in London was the Tower of London, church in the evening followed by dinner at a nearby Indian restaurant. After breakfast we headed out to Fleet Street to catch the #15 bus which went right by Tower Hill. We went up to the top deck of course for the view. The buses all have announcements and displays so you know when to get off. Getting down the stairs while the bus is moving can be tricky though.

We were a little early so waited in the small queue for the ticket office to open which it did promptly at 9 AM. We first headed for the crown jewels which is well worth seeing. My one regret is that I didn't take the time to watch some of the informative videos such as one on the coronation ceremony which explained how and when all of the crowns, scepters, etc. are used. There is lots of explanatory text also. There are some famous huge gems such as the Koh I Noor diamond as part of some of the crowns. Afterwards we walked around a bit and saw the ravens which are very tame, although one is advised not to try to pet them as they can bite. I thought of going on one of the warden tours but my wife's knee was bothering her so we ended up cutting the visit short.

We had some time on our hands as I had expected the Tower to take most of the day. We decided to take a boat ride down to Westminster which turned out to be a good choice. The City Cruises boats have an open upper deck and a great commentary pointing out various landmarks. When we got to Westminster the area was jammed with people. Given that we weren't up to walking around much we decided just to go back to the hotel and have a drink and a snack to tide us over since we were planning a late dinner. A couple of stops on the District line and we were back at the hotel. Afterwards we changed and headed for Mass which was at 6 pm at a church near Picadilly Circus. This gave me the opportunity to ride the Bakerloo line which has the oldest trains (from 1972) on the Underground and which sound like the old trains I remember from my youth. After Mass we headed back to the hotel, changed and headed to the restaurant which was only 2 blocks from our hotel.

The Indian restaurant was okay. One thing different from ours in the US is that they had an extensive wine list. The Lamb Korma had nice lamb but the sauce was much sweeter than I expected. Perhaps a difference in tastes between the US and the UK. Afterward we headed back to the hotel for a welcome night's sleep.
 
Part 4 - Side Trip to Essex

The next day which was Sunday we had planned to meet up with my cousins at Benfleet in Essex where I lived until age 7 when we emigrated to Canada. For this we took the train called the C2C which operates the London Tilbury and Southend line. Normally trains run from Fenchurch St. Station near the Tower of London but this weekend due to engineering work they were operating out of Liverpool St. via Stratford and Westboune Park to Barking where they pick up the usual route via Basildon. I was looking forward to this ride as I hadn't been on the C2C since the days of ancient slam door EMUs plus had never ridden this diversionary route. We hopped on the Circle Line to Liverpool St. and bought 2 return tickets for Benfleet. The class 357s were fast and comfortable although seat legroom a little cramped for a six footer like me. We arrived at Benfleet on time and my cousins pulled up a few minutes later.

One of my cousins had made lunch reservations at a place in Leigh on Sea on the water and we had some time to kill so we had a look around Benfleet walking by the house I had lived in 65 years ago which was still there. We also walked around the churchyard for St. Mary's church nearby which was started by the Saxons in 997 so over a thousand years old. Afterwards we got in the car and drove over to Canvey Island which is in the Thames Estuary off of Benfleet and looked around there. I had gone to school there for a couple of years. It had seen a lot of new development over the years.

We then went to my cousin's house in nearby Hadleigh and picked up her husband and her mother who was recuperating there from an operation. We then headed off in 2 cars to the restaurant in Leigh on Sea which is near the seaside resort of Southend. There we had what was either a late lunch or early dinner and got caught up as we had not seen each other for over 15 years.

After lunch we went back to my cousin's house and had tea and talked for a while but it was getting late so they drove us to Benfleet station and we got the train back to London and the Underground back to our hotel.
 
Day 5 Monday

We hadn't had anything definite planned for this day initially but had the idea of going out to Kew Gardens since the weather was nice. This involved a long ride on the District Line toward Richmond where Kew is the next to last stop. The last bit of the route is also used by Overground trains which run off the same third rail but don't use the Undergrounds fourth rail. There is about a 10 minute walk to the gardens through what is obviously a posh part of London and from looking at realtor ads appeared to have prices up to a million pounds. The gardens themselves are huge but fortunately there is a sort of train on rubber tires that takes you around the circumference. We rode around on that to get a view of what was to offer. There were several large glass houses with special displays such as tropical plants and temperate plants. The variety of plants is astounding.
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We stopped and had a cuppa and a bite to eat at a cafe on the premises then looked around some more. By mid-afternoon our feet were tired so we headed back to the Underground then drinks and dinner at the hotel. Tomorrow Tuesday we were heading out to stay with my cousin Jeremy and his wife in Ely near Cambridge so a big travel day.
 
It also caused people on the Underground to give up their seat for her. I was touched how many times that happened, not something I would have expected in Boston.
Actually during our trip on the Silver Line last July, someone gave up a seat for my wife. And then a little later, on the Logan terminal shuttle, someone gave up their seat to me!
 
Part 4 - Side Trip to Essex

The next day which was Sunday we had planned to meet up with my cousins at Benfleet in Essex where I lived until age 7 when we emigrated to Canada. For this we took the train called the C2C which operates the London Tilbury and Southend line. Normally trains run from Fenchurch St. Station near the Tower of London but this weekend due to engineering work they were operating out of Liverpool St. via Stratford and Westboune Park to Barking where they pick up the usual route via Basildon. I was looking forward to this ride as I hadn't been on the C2C since the days of ancient slam door EMUs plus had never ridden this diversionary route. We hopped on the Circle Line to Liverpool St. and bought 2 return tickets for Benfleet. The class 357s were fast and comfortable although seat legroom a little cramped for a six footer like me. We arrived at Benfleet on time and my cousins pulled up a few minutes later.

One of my cousins had made lunch reservations at a place in Leigh on Sea on the water and we had some time to kill so we had a look around Benfleet walking by the house I had lived in 65 years ago which was still there. We also walked around the churchyard for St. Mary's church nearby which was started by the Saxons in 997 so over a thousand years old. Afterwards we got in the car and drove over to Canvey Island which is in the Thames Estuary off of Benfleet and looked around there. I had gone to school there for a couple of years. It had seen a lot of new development over the years.

We then went to my cousin's house in nearby Hadleigh and picked up her husband and her mother who was recuperating there from an operation. We then headed off in 2 cars to the restaurant in Leigh on Sea which is near the seaside resort of Southend. There we had what was either a late lunch or early dinner and got caught up as we had not seen each other for over 15 years.

After lunch we went back to my cousin's house and had tea and talked for a while but it was getting late so they drove us to Benfleet station and we got the train back to London and the Underground back to our hotel.

Rosie lived on Canvey Island for 3 years, it's where we met. I found Canvey had a small community feel about it, most people looking out for each other, a nice place to live.

Enjoying your travelogue a lot, interesting to see places that we're very familiar with through others eyes.
 
Day 6 Tuesday 30 August

Our travel day to Ely in Cambridgeshire. The direct trains to Ely run out of Kings Cross so we headed there, deciding to splurge on a taxi rather than shlep heavy bags through the Underground. Arriving at Kings Cross, the train we originally planned to take had been cut back to Cambridge North. It was a little confusing as the announcement still had it calling at Ely. Checking with staff we found that it was indeed ending at Cambridge North due to a shortage of drivers. No matter, there was another train in about 20 minutes to Kings Lynn which called at Ely. We boarded this which was a Great Northern class 387 and fairly sparsely loaded. It was a good fast run, nonstop as far as Cambridge.
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We arrived at Ely on time where we were met by my Cousin and his wife. They took us to their house which is actually in a village outside of the town surrounded by fields in what is a very agricultural area, dead flat with the tower of the medieval cathedral of Ely dominating the landscape for miles.

We didn't do much the rest of the day just getting caught up as we hadn't seen each other since they had visited us in 2007. We did take a walk with their dog along the river in Ely a very pleasant area with pubs and cafes along the river and many of the long narrow canal boats moored along it. We went home had dinner and got our clothes sorted out for our 3 day journey to Crich and Whitby the next day.
 
Wednesday 31 August


The next morning we drove to Crich near Nottingham more or less in the center of the country about a 2 1/2 hour drive partly on the M1 which is Britain's main North South highway, sort of its Interstate 95. The National Tramway Museum there is very impressive and well maintained. They had been closed earlier in the year as there were some overhead poles that needed to be replaced but were now up and running. This day they had 3 trams, a double decker from London, another older Glasgow double decker with partially open decks on the top level, and a Blackpool "boat" tram. We rode all 3 and especially liked the Glasgow where we skipped a ride so we could be first in the queue and get the coveted front balcony seats
PXL_20220831_135532883.jpg

As an operator at Seashore in Maine I got to talking to the crew and they even had me be conductor at the end of the line and change ends on the pole.

They also have many teams on exhibit about 50 total mostly British but some European and at least one from South Africa. They also have a 3rd Avenue car which came via Vienna.

That night we stayed at a nearby Premier Inn which is a budget hotel chain in the UK spartan but clean. They had an adjacent restaurant where we had a nice dinner plus breakfast the following morning.

The next day we were off to Whitby Yorkshire on the North Sea coast. We could have stopped at the North York Moors Railway but I had been there before and didn't want our trip to be all about trains so we skipped it this time.

The town of Whitby is impressive with its Abbey ruins in the top of the hill and its picturesque harbor.
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We walked around the town window shopping. My wife was interested in the Whitby Jet which is a black stone used to make jewelry. She found a nice pair. I bought a reproduction of an old railway poster advertising the town as a getaway destination. We also stopped at a pub and had a drink. I'm not a big beer drinker but tried the local brown ale which was pretty good.

We had dinner at a nearby restaurant that specialized in fish and chips then overnighted at the Royal Hotel which was as big old fashioned hotel overlooking the beach and harbor.

The next morning after breakfast we headed home along the coast, stopping at Robin Hood's Bay which is a picturesque village with a very steep road down to its harbor. The view from the top is quite spectacular. I took some pictures but they don't really do it justice.
PXL_20220902_082631434.jpg
We then left for the long drive home. That evening we went out to a Mexican restaurant where we met up with my cousin's son and his girlfriend who are restoring a 200 year old house in the town. We had an interesting talk asy wife and I had both worked on fixing up old houses in our younger days.
 
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The next day we were headed to Rayleigh in Essex to meet some relatives I had never met before, children of my biological father with his second wife, two half brothers and their children. That involved travelling to Liverpool St which does not have a direct train. So we took the East Anglia service to Cambridge North, changing there for Liverpool St where we caught a Southend Victoria train as far as Rayleigh. The first 2 trains were very crowded I think mostly because of a football match at Tottenham Hotspur Stadium. The Rayleigh train was pretty lightly loaded though and was interesting to speed through the East of London suburbs past the new Elizabeth Line trains as far as Shenfield.
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We took a local bus to our hotel another Premier Inn.

The next morning was Sunday so we went to church in Rayleigh then back to the hotel where my relatives picked us up and took us to their house where we had dinner. We all got along really well and got to know each other better.

The next day was back to London to see my sister and her family who live in London, and to prepare for the next leg of the trip, to Ireland.
 
Wednesday 31 August


The next morning we drove to Crich near Nottingham more or less in the center of the country about a 2 1/2 hour drive partly on the M1 which is Britain's main North South highway, sort of its Interstate 95. The National Tramway Museum there is very impressive and well maintained. They had been closed earlier in the year as there were some overhead poles that needed to be replaced but were now up and running. This day they had 3 trams, a double decker from London, another older Glasgow double decker with partially open decks on the top level, and a Blackpool "boat" tram. We rode all 3 and especially liked the Glasgow where we skipped a ride so we could be first in the queue and get the coveted front balcony seats
View attachment 29576

As an operator at Seashore in Maine I got to talking to the crew and they even had me be conductor at the end of the line and change ends on the pole.

They also have many teams on exhibit about 50 total mostly British but some European and at least one from South Africa. They also have a 3rd Avenue car which came via Vienna.

That night we stayed at a nearby Premier Inn which is a budget hotel chain in the UK spartan but clean. They had an adjacent restaurant where we had a nice dinner plus breakfast the following morning.

The next day we were off to Whitby Yorkshire on the North Sea coast. We could have stopped at the North York Moors Railway but I had been there before and didn't want our trip to be all about trains so we skipped it this time.

The town of Whitby is impressive with its Abbey ruins in the top of the hill and its picturesque harbor.
View attachment 29577
We walked around the town window shopping. My wife was interested in the Whitby Jet which is a black stone used to make jewelry. She found a nice pair. I bought a reproduction of an old railway poster advertising the town as a getaway destination. We also stopped at a pub and had a drink. I'm not a big beer drinker but tried the local brown ale which was pretty good.

We had dinner at a nearby restaurant that specialized in fish and chips then overnighted at the Royal Hotel which was as big old fashioned hotel overlooking the beach and harbor.

The next morning after breakfast we headed home along the coast, stopping at Robin Hood's Bay which is a picturesque village with a very steep road down to its harbor. The view from the top is quite spectacular. I took some pictures but they don't really do it justice.
View attachment 29578
We then left for the long drive home. That evening we went out to a Mexican restaurant where we met up with my cousin's son and his girlfriend who are restoring a 200 year old house in the town. We had an interesting talk asy wife and I had both worked on fixing up old houses in our younger days.
Coincidentally, we’re on holiday in the area at this very moment, and were in Whitby and Robin Hood’s Bay on Monday. First time for me at both, and very impressed. We haven’t done the North York Moors Railway yet but will visit. My wife is controlling her <cough> excitement. They have just started steam runs again - suspended this August, because of the fire risk.
 
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