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I also loaded the CHDK (Canon Hackers Development Kit) on my SD card which allows me to access other features such as the ability to take RAW photos. If I wish to do star trails, I can set the shutter speed up to 34 minutes. If you have a Canon P&S, be sure to Google CHDK and they website can give you directions on how to install it.
I've read about CHDK, and the more I read the more intrigued I become, though I remain unsure whether it could really benefit they way I pursue photography. At any rate, while I've had the SX40 since November there's been no extended shooting opportunity to learn the camera better and become fully comfortable with it. I'm quite pleased with the results so far, all from brief outings, but wanna have the machine totally wired before trying something like CHDK.

Some nice work there at Flickr, BTW...
 
I also loaded the CHDK (Canon Hackers Development Kit) on my SD card which allows me to access other features such as the ability to take RAW photos. If I wish to do star trails, I can set the shutter speed up to 34 minutes. If you have a Canon P&S, be sure to Google CHDK and they website can give you directions on how to install it.
I've read about CHDK, and the more I read the more intrigued I become, though I remain unsure whether it could really benefit they way I pursue photography. At any rate, while I've had the SX40 since November there's been no extended shooting opportunity to learn the camera better and become fully comfortable with it. I'm quite pleased with the results so far, all from brief outings, but wanna have the machine totally wired before trying something like CHDK.

Some nice work there at Flickr, BTW...
Thanks, Whooz! I don't tap into the CHDK very much unless I want a RAW shot or I am doing an extended exposure for star trails. The nice thing about it is that it acts more as a overlay to the current firmware instead of a replacement. Also, you can slide your SD card to 'unlock' and it won't even boot up. Whoever came up with this thing was pure genius. Anyway, I found it gives me some SLR functionality without the SLR prices.

One other item I love about the sx40 is the burst mode. I wish the continuous shoot was a little faster, but the burst mode is great. I used it while foaming a couple of weeks ago and results were impressive. I normally don't upgrade cameras every year, but I'm sure glad I changed up from the SX30.

Anyway, I hope your SX40 works out well for you!

Dan
 
While I use only digital now, and that has been the case for a number of years, my first camera was a Kodak Pony 135 which I used to take slides. I received this camera in the late 1940's and used it until about 1965 when I purchased my first SLR. Took may train slides with it and fortunately I keep those old slides which have now been digitized and saved at this LINK.
Wonderful photos! Thanks for sharing these.
 
I'm going to come to the defense of my tragically hip Lomo LC-A+. Contrary to what some here have stated, the camera does not have a crappy lens, nor does it routinely introduce bizarre colors and suffer from exposure issues. In fact, my LC-A and LC-A+ produce some of the most consistently on-target exposures of any camera I own.

Much of the Lomo mystique comes from an attitude that traditional rules of composition, exposure and focus can be ignored -- and even embraced as wonderfully creative accidents. I don't necessarily agree with this idea, but am willing to accept creativity whatever its form. In addition, many Lomo photographers shoot slide film and then cross process in standard C-41 color negative chemistry, or use redscale film and expose through the base instead of the emulsion. Both techniques can produce extreme vignetting and unexpected color shifts.

Here's an example of cross processing in an LC-A+ plus view of Crown Hill's Tower of Memories in Wheat Ridge, Colorado:

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You can also get interesting results from redscale film, too. Here are examples of redscale, taken with an LC-A+ on the California Zephyr in Illinois:

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Here are a few shots that show how the LC-A and LC-A+ can take plain old ordinary images. The first shows the characteristic distortion of parallel lines:

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Finally, here's an example of a low-light exposure:

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If anyone is in the market for a new camera, I thought this article, with some specific recommendations, might be of interest.

The best camera bargains right now

For the most part, the digital-camera landscape is mapped out in $200 increments. Every $200 you're willing to spend represents a nice step up in camera capabilities.

Here's how it generally shakes out: For $200, you'll find basic, pocketable point-and-shoots with decent image quality, automated controls, and little else other than a range of color options. For $400, you'll get an "advanced" fixed-lens camera with manual controls, a wide-aperture lens, and a RAW-shooting mode. $600 buys you a ticket to entry-level DSLR land. If you step up to $800, you can get a mid-range DSLR or a premium mirrorless camera with a faster shooting speed, higher ISO, and more-granular manual controls. At $1000 and up, the sky's the limit in terms of APS-C-sensored DSLRs, but you'll still need to spend a bit more to get a full-frame DSLR.
 
Thread Expansion Alert!

Since starting this topic I've had great opportunities to get out and about with the Canon SX40 HS, becoming much more familiar with the camera along the way. Because it's not a DSLR or other type of interchangeable lens camera (it's a high-end point-and-shoot "superzoom" compact in the current lingo) I knew going in that it's limited from an optical standpoint.

But it does have a hot shoe for external flashes or other attachments, and it does have a bayonet mount, which opens things up a bit. So I got to wondering and reading about what options I might have for attachments, tools, gizmos, devices, and what have you that I might use in the endless quest (okay, desperate attempt) to improve my train photography.

Maybe others have things they use and do that they'd be willing to share here as well.

The bayonet mount is basically a pair of wide notched fittings on the front of the lens barrel that allows stuff to be stuck on the end. First thing I got to put on the bayonet mount was a lens hood, which helps cut down on flare - unwanted light - when I'm trying to shoot close to the sun's direction (not unusual when trying to photograph moving trains - or from aboard them for that matter). Thinking more about unwanted light, I started reading about polarizing filters. Now I've known about polarized lenses about as long as I've known about sunglasses. And I'd heard about 'em in photography but didn't know much (which hasn't really changed). I found that digital camera focusing and metering systems require circular - as opposed to linear - polarizing filters.

Once I decided to try a circular polarizing filter the issue became how to put it on the camera. No mounting threads like a DSLR, and no polarizing filters with bayonet mounts, so I had to find a bayonet-to-threads adapter. Recommendations and prices were all over the map. I went with Canon's recommended specs for the model (though other sized ones claimed to also fit), but not their high price for the part, and found a 3rd party 67mm filter adapter for pretty cheap, and an inexpensive circular polarizing filter to use on it. Polarizer prices were also all over the map but I went cheap, figuring that if I like the way it works I can shell out and step up.

Mounting was easy, and the polarizer works well in test shooting, which is all I've had a chance to do so far. Looking forward to getting trackside with my new toy soon! It really cuts haze and enhances color saturation, especially skies, just as advertised. Oh yeah: The adapter's gonna remain mounted so the polarizer can be a quick on/quick off deal. That meant a new lens cap to fit the adapter, and a new (better) lens hood as well. EDIT: The new lens hood is threaded to attach to the adapter, or to the polarizing filter if that is also mounted; old hood uses the bayonet mount.

On another front, one ongoing problem I seem to have is getting pictures level. Sometimes that's no big deal, but crooked can really wreck pics like, say, a landscape view of a whole train or a side-on, roster-type shot of a locomotive. Yeah, I know most editing software can rotate, but that's a pain in the patoot I'd rather head off with the camera before lopsided happens.

Team Whooz Executive Assistant Alice has been using a little bubble level device that screws into the tripod mounting hole on the bottom of her Sony compact (now in the process of being replaced by a new Fujifilm X10). It's worked well for her, but I didn't wanna be taking my eye off the electronic viewfinder and looking down at the level before pressing the shutter button every time. Critical moments lost and the train gets away, shot missed while checking for level.

Still, the crooked shot issue was bugging me so bad that I almost caved and got a level like Alice's. While looking around online for one, though, I ran across another option: a hotshoe-mounted level!

Once again, as seems to be the case with ALL photo accessories, prices were all over the map; a number of different desgns, too. And once again I cheaped out, using the same rationale as for the polarizing filter. Unlike the polarizer, though, I haven't had a chance to really use the level at all yet.

In the original post of this thread I mentioned that I'd picked up a Canon A1200 as a cheap-o cheap-o, everyday walking around kinda camera, and that it was working just fine for its intended use. To update that a bit, the little A1200 has performed above and beyond expectations, turning out some perfectly acceptable - even surprisingly good - nonrail scenery shots during Team Whooz forays. It got heavy use at the Grand Canyon, as well as Zion National Park, Arches National Park, Valley of Fire state park in Nevada, plus northern California, Washington state, and the Oregon coast. A real workhorse!

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Canon A1200, off topic at Valley of Fire state park in Nevada on 5-24-12 while returning from South By Southwest Chief.





So does anybody else out there in Amtrak Unlimited Photoland wanna share their ideas, suggestions, tips, recommendations, or just plain old stories about photo accessories, gizmos, and all that? And of course it's never too late to go with the title of the thread and Show Us Your Camera!!

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You can sort of see the bayonet mount if you look closely: low stretches around the top and bottom edge of the lens barrel, by the printing, and little centering notches on the sides. Attachments go on sideways, then twist into place.




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Hotshoe-mount level. On the above camera the hotshoe is covered by a rubber cap on the electronic viewfinder housing.



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Tripod-mount level similar to the one Alice uses.

 
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Whooz

I feel your pain on keeping pictures level. I've dealt with the same thing. Canon does have a nice grid that comes up both in the EVF and the back screen which have made a huge difference for me in leveling out shots. As CHamilton pointed out, CHDK also has several grids that you can pull up. In fact, some of them look like you should be shooting a missile instead of a pictures.

As far as filter adapters for the SX40, I've used the one made by Lensmate: http://www.lensmateonline.com/store/sx20sx10sx1.php It's a 58mm but have had very little problems with vignetting. They also make it out of a softer plastic so it won't wear and tear on the lens barrel. Another great item is the lens pedal hood that can bayonet on the barrel as well (but not with a filter). Those are pretty common on ebay and amazon.

I used to use a polarizing filter more on my old S5, but I have found that if you set the sx40 to 'P' and then set it to bring out the color blue, it really brings out the sky and water. With that, I find I don't need to polarizing filter quite so much. But, I still use ND filters for water shots.

Glad to hear the sx40 is still working out for you. Still liking mine. Even if Canon upgrades this year, I'll still sticking with it!

Dan
 
Whooz
I feel your pain on keeping pictures level. I've dealt with the same thing. Canon does have a nice grid that comes up both in the EVF and the back screen which have made a huge difference for me in leveling out shots. As CHamilton pointed out, CHDK also has several grids that you can pull up. In fact, some of them look like you should be shooting a missile instead of a pictures.
The EVF (electronic viewfinder) grid does indeed work well - IF I remember to use it in the "heat of the moment," when trying to balance all other factors of an often fast-changing shooting environment. Still don't know if the level mounted on the hotshoe will help on that front either. And I've seen screenshots of CHDK grids - some of which look straight out of GamerLand. Unfortunately I think CHDK is out for me. Too complex for my small brain, and certainly one of two things would explode upon trying it: the camera or my head. EDIT (about the 5th so far): Back LCD screens are usually only used when shooting with somebody else's camera ("Will you take a picture of us?").

As far as filter adapters for the SX40, I've used the one made by Lensmate: http://www.lensmateo...sx20sx10sx1.php It's a 58mm but have had very little problems with vignetting. They also make it out of a softer plastic so it won't wear and tear on the lens barrel. Another great item is the lens pedal hood that can bayonet on the barrel as well (but not with a filter). Those are pretty common on ebay and amazon.
The 67mm adapter I purchased at Amazon (before they started collecting taxes from Californians!) works fine at about half the price of the lensmate model (Mr. Cheapo strikes again), but the one you linked would certainly be a fine choice as well. With the polarizer mounted there's barely noticeable vignetting at full wide, where I rarely shoot, and that's easily croppable. For those who might be unfamiliar with the term, vignetting is when the barrel or sides of the lens become visible, resulting in dark corners in the image. It's something to be aware of and try to avoid, especially for those who don't usually edit their photos (and most people don't, just like most people with DSLRs never remove the kit lens that came with the camera). EDIT: Oh, and I do have a non-adapter petal lens hood. It was another instance of finding a 3rd party item that works at Amazon for a LOT less than Canon charges for virtually the same thing with their name on it (About $8 vs. about $25 in this case, IIRC).

I used to use a polarizing filter more on my old S5, but I have found that if you set the sx40 to 'P' and then set it to bring out the color blue, it really brings out the sky and water. With that, I find I don't need to polarizing filter quite so much. But, I still use ND filters for water shots.
While I've not tried an ND (neutral density) filter, that remains under consideration, with the split versions kind of intriguing. When you mentioned water shots I wracked the small brain trying to think of any I'd done, and couldn't come up with any aside from test shots using the polarizer. EDIT (up to 6 now for one lousy post!): Remembered a water shot, and a really recent one at that (see below). Not sure a neutral density filter woulda helped under the conditions (end edit). Nice idea about setting for blue in P (Program), and it's something I'll have to try, though most of my shooting is done in shutter priority ("Tv" on the Canon) mode.

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Water shot: Oregon Coast Scenic Railway runs northbound on a causeway across a lagoon beside highway 101 between Garibaldi and Rockaway Beach, Oregon.





One thing about modes that I wanna mention for all Valued Readers: Don't forget to check your settings before you start shooting. I just finished editing some Team Whooz pics, and was appalled at a greenish/yellowish cast in my shots. Turned out I'd had the camera in "Auto," (how it got there is beyond me) - and obviously carelessly left it there. I NEVER shoot in Auto and woulda changed it immediately had I realized. Just plain nuts. Executive Assistant Alice's photos are much more accurate, colorwise:

Astoria Riverfront Streetcar, 7-18-12

The weird cast was reduced somewhat in editing, but needn't have occurred in the first place if I'd been more careful about the camera's setting before - and even during - shooting.

Glad to hear the sx40 is still working out for you. Still liking mine. Even if Canon upgrades this year, I'll still sticking with it!
Yeah, I keep reading rumblings about an SX50, but who needs it? One camera at a time, and I'd like to get the '40 wired before thinking about any upgrades! Thanks, dan72, for sharing ideas and your experience.

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Sometimes the grid in the SX40's electronic viewfinder works just fine for leveling, as here when Oregon Coast Scenic Railway (ex-McCloud River Railroad) No. 25 was standing still at Rockaway Beach, Oregon.

 
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Nice shots, Whooz! I hear you on the Cheapo route with stuff. The Lensmate has been my only spurge. Everything else has been ebay bought - especially batteries. Canon is highway robbery for extra batteries. One thing that ticked me off was when I upgraded my the sx30, part of my sick and twisted thinking was 'oh I can reuse the batteries.' WRONG! They went with a slightly smaller battery for the sx40. Grr.

And yes, Auto can be problematic. One thing that the SX30 taught me was get off Auto and learn how to use the stinking thing. Although better on the sx40, I still use 'P' or 'M' as much as I can.

Here's a shot I took using an ND4 filter last year at Shepherd's Dell in the Columbia River Gorge in Oregon.

http://big47little47.blogspot.com/2011/07/amtrak-to-pacific-northwest-part-iv.html

It's a fun filter to experiment with. Later on at Multnomah Falls, I rushed to get a shot of a UP train passing by with teh falls in the background only to realize all too late I forgot the take the filter off. Ooops. Needless to say, that blurry mess will not see an upload button.

Here's a shot of the Empire Builder in Red Wing, MN using the 'Blue' setting on 'P'




Also, to show how it picks up on water, here is Soo Line 2719 coming into Duluth last weekend.




Anyway, I ramble on. I hope our paths (or tracks) cross someday and we have a chance to banter around about camera's in person!

Dan
 
Nice shots, Whooz! I hear you on the Cheapo route with stuff.
Thanks for the compliment, and thanks for sharing the links with your own cool work. I've been lucky enough to catch heritage-painted Amtrak P42 No. 156 myself in various environments, and of course I'm always partial to steam photos.

Packing up the SX40 and the A1200 now for a cross-country modified loop jaunt that includes the Amtrak Unlimited 6th Annual Gathering at Philadelphia, as well as rail action in other cities, so I think there's some good shooting in my immediate future. And maybe some photo issues to post about en route, like how to deal with the eternally maddening Sightseer Lounge glare...

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No. 156 and the Pacific Railroad Society's Diamond Jubilee Special getting wyed at Bakersfield, California, 4-3-11.

 
For extra credit heres what the pictures look like that the kodak takes

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compared to the nokia X2-01 cell phone I have

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Like Whooz, I started out with a Kodak, one generation up...the DX7590. It is still looking at me from the top of the computer desk. I would still be using it if it had a wider angle lens. I moved up strictly with Kodak (I also own the Z1015IS) until Pentax came out with a 'bridge' camera. I bought the x70 three years ago, but it is in the shop have a vignetting problem addressed. When I had film SLRs, it was Pentax all the way. I refuse to go back to carrying all that stuff around. I also used a Lumix ZS8 until it got stuff on the sensor, and I replaced it with a Lumix ZS19. Here are some shots taken with it:

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Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad in Chama, NM

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Silver Meteor & freight

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Silver Meteor
 
While at work, it's a Nikon D3s and a D4 all the way. When the day is over, it's a Fuji X100 and an X-Pro1. Though I have to admit, I have had fun the past two years with an iPhone and Hipstamatic.
 
My first experience with a "real" camera was a brand new Pentax SF10. That was not the original target of our interest but stackable discounts that brought the cost down to around half the original price and the work of a true salesman changed our mind. It may not look like much today, but it was really cool and complicated compared to everything we had ever used before it. We knew what it could do before we bought it because the sales guy spent nearly an hour going over all the options and showing us how to access them. I'll admit up front that I never quite figured out how to work every setting in manual mode, largely because the conventional film developing process created too long of a delay between composition and result to easily associate good or bad photos with their original settings and also because the camera's electronics already did such a great job in automatic and hybrid modes.

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After years of random but enjoyable film photography I eagerly awaited digital photography.

Early digital cameras were expensive, had extremely low resolutions compared to even the most basic film cameras, and didn't have any way to see your work until you uploaded your photos to a computer or had them printed out.

As digital cameras quickly improved I tried numerous brands.

Olympus, Fuji, HP, Kodak, Nikon, Canon, you name it.

Eventually I settled on a basic introductory DSLR from Canon called the the Rebel XT in the US or the 350D in Europe or the Kiss DN in Asia.

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^ It may not look like much today, but Canon's RXT blew my point-and-shoot mind when I first started playing with it.

It seemed like a good value back then, and honestly I still think it was. The only problem with the RXT was that I wasn't quite ready for it. Like every other SLR system the camera body is just the beginning of what is likely to be a long and involved process of determining a set of applicable lenses, finding them at a reasonable price, and learning how to get the most out of them once they're in your possession.

You'll probably spend a lot more on those lenses than the camera body, regardless if you buy good glass from the beginning or because you bought bad glass and had to replace it after the fact. You'll also want name brand batteries, grips, flashes, and and other accessories that can easily cost double or triple the commodity maker prices. That was not something I was fully aware of up front and ending up with lousy glass and and sub-par accessories left a bad taste in my mouth.

In addition to that I didn't realize how much of a role post-processing can play in the final result. If you add up everything you need to get what you want out of even a basic model like the RXT the total cost of ownership can rise from an initial $500 purchase to well over $2,000 without any effort at all. If you bought low grade glass and no-name accessories first you can add another $1,000 on top of that which are difficult to resell to anyone but other newbies.

That's why I don't begrudge anyone who hasn't stepped up to the DSLR market. It's a huge undertaking in both time and money. If photography is only a minor hobby for you then a manual setting camera with a single purpose-built lens is probably your best bet. Chances are you won't need to change lenses anyway unless you have really specific demands that can only be met with special purpose glass and/or a fast aperture.

Most of my EF lenses and various accessories are gone now. My RXT is tied to a single EFS IS 17-85. It's nothing special but it allows me to take photos that won't work on a phone.

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Speaking of phones, I previously used an HTC EVO 4G as mentioned by another member.

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The HTC EVO 4G was a great phone for its time. WiMax 4G speeds were amazing back in the 3G era and were even powerful enough for large uploads and downloads to a tethered PC or other device. Not quite enough RAM and CPU power for today's software, but back then it was amazingly versatile. Unfortunately, even though the EVO had the same 8MP as my RXT the optics and sensor were terrible in my view. I could never get a quality photo out of my EVO. It also had terrible battery life. To get a full day's worth of active use without charging I had to use two 3000mah batteries which was a major PITA.

I still have my EVO 4G for basic tasks. It can handle even the latest 64GB memory cards and play all the music, movies, books, and photos you'd need to pass the time. It also works as a GPS and anything else that doesn't require an active data connection.

Today my active phone is a Samsung Galaxy S III. It lasts a whole day (and night) with a single 4000mah battery and takes great pictures compared to nearly every other phone I've had, including some models of iPhone.

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On a recent trip to a beach resort 10,000 miles away I made a last minute purchase of one of those new fangled water resistant cameras.

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That was a fun experiment, and it worked out well. Two weeks in it was my time to leave but my friend was going to stay for another two or three weeks. Her own underwater camera had failed and the camera I had snagged at a steep discount for $120 in the US was going for closer to $240 in Asia, so I left my camera with her.

For the most part I've been content with what I have, but none of it is really geared toward my next interest. Namely, my growing curiosity of videography. So when I saw a popular performer able to handle high-rate video that could be purchased at half of the original price once the newest version came out I decided to pull the trigger. But that's a story for another time.
 
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I've recently purchased my first mirrorless camera, the Nikon 1 J1, with 10mm, 10-30mm and 30-110mm lenses. It's my first step up from point and shoot cameras and I'm concentrating on learning it's capabilities before making my most ambitious Amtrak trip to date in April from Chicago to Sacramento on the CZ and then in June from Pasco to Chicago on the Empire Builder prior to returning to my "home" near Frankfurt, Germany. I'll also be using the cameras on my iPod Touch. I'll check back in in May and let you know how the J1 is working out, after trying it on the Rockies, Monument Valley, Yosemite and other locations while riding Amtrak. Now back to the "How To" book.
 
Now back to the "How To" book.
Nice to hear of someone whooz taking the time and making the effort to learn their camera's capabilities. I've come across too many who have taken "point and shoot" so literally that they weren't even pressing the shutter button halfway to let the autofocus work before taking a shot. Then they wonder what's wrong with their camera that all its pics turn out blurry.

Have fun riding and shooting with your new Nikon!
 
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