p&sr
OBS Chief
After resting up for a week, I was ready for Part 2 of my Rail Pass Adventure. Having travelled on the Coast Starlight from Martinez to Los Angeles, with extension to San Diego, I naturally wanted to do the rest of the Coast Starlight from Martinez to Seattle, with extension to Vancouver BC. From there I could take VIA Rail to Jasper National Park. If I chose the proper day of travel, and the trains were on time, I could catch the Westbound Canadian from Jasper back to Vancouver the same day.
This time I would be leaving my hometown on the Amtrak Bus. Since the Northbound CS comes thru late in the evening, there would be time to explore the Bay Area by rail in the meantime. So to maximize the opportunity, I caught the first Bus out of town at daybreak. At Martinez Station there was time to walk around outdoors, seeing the Steam Locomotive on exhibit there and Alhambra Creek on the other end of the platforms (near where the Beaver Dam is now). The first train Westbound/Southbound only ran as far as Oakland (Jack London Square). From there, I took the Ferryboat across to San Francisco (Fisherman's Wharf). Then the same boat back along the Waterfront, stopping at the Ferry Bldg (foot of Market Street, where Amtrak has a full-service station but no tracks) and then crossing under the Bay Bridge and past Yerba Buena Island to enter the Alameda Channel, part of the Oakland Harbor. Lots of large container-ships being loaded with huge cranes. Back at Jack London Square, I was in time for the next train to San Jose, by way of Hayward and the Salt Flats on the Southern end of the Bay. Arriving in San Jose, I was still plenty early, so I took a round-trip on the CalTrain, up the Peninsula past Palo Alto to San Francisco. I rode the new Light-Rail extension from the Depot at 4th and King, past the new Ballpark (with crowds arriving for a Baseball Game there) and along the South part of the Embarcadero, then entering the Market Street Subway. At the Embarcadero Station I got off and caught the next car back to 4th and King, then the next CalTrain to San Jose. Lots of interesting urban and suburban scenery along the way, and some views of the Bay and marshlands, and the East Bay Hills and Mt. Diablo beyond.
Later that night, I caught the northbound Coast Starlight. I watched the sparkling lights and familiar landmarks as far as Sacramento, then slept comfortably in my Coach accommodations as previously. At daybreak (Day 2), we were passing the last reaches of Lake Shasta on the way to Dunsmuir. After a dramatic climb out of the canyon, we emerged onto the high plateau with a morning view of Mt. Shasta. This was exactly where a delay from the schedule comes in very handy. We continued across the Volcanic landscape into Oregon. At Klamath Falls we transferred to a bus, because of the recent fire in the Summit Tunnel I had mentioned previously. After a long ride through thick forests of conifers, we arrived at Eugene, where the Train was waiting for us. From there it was a smooth trip to Seattle, arriving late that night.
I took a taxi to a bargain Motel I'd found on the Internet. It worked out OK, but next time I'd rather stay at the Pioneer Square Hotel which is nicer and close to the Station (walking distance by daylight). Next morning (Day 3) it was back to the Station in time for the Cascade Train to Vancouver BC. Wonderful scenery along the shores of Puget Sound, worth the whole trip just for that. On arrival in Vancouver, the Customs folks wanted to know what I would be doing in Canada. I told them "Riding the Rails" (not knowing that probably meant hopping Freights illegally...), to Jasper and immediately back again to Seattle. That sounded unusual to them, but after reviewing my tickets they decided everything was in order.
In the Station, we saw the Rocky Mountaineer Train (luxury tours to Jasper and Banff) and some elegant Private Cars. I had most of the day free before departing Eastbound that evening. The SkyTrain has a Station just across a small park from the RailRoad Station. The Skytrain is like a LightRail or PeopleMover system, completely computer operated, and driven by a linear magnetic induction motor. I rode South to the station just before the River, and transferred to the line that crosses the Fraser River on its own dramatic cable-stay bridge (that looks too flimsy for Anything to cross on it, let alone any kind of rail vehicle), to the end of the line and back again. Great views of the City and its setting among the Mountains. On crossing the River again, I transferred back to the first line to complete the loop, going first North along the River and then West along the RailRoad Right-of-Way. That line ended at a transfer station where I enjoyed lunch... Hamburger and RootBeer at an A&W restaurant, then back to the SkyTrain northbound towards downtown. (All of this on an economical all-day ticket. I think it was on a Sunday, which gave a better deal). At that end on the line, there is a commuter rail station (rush-hour service only, unfortunately) and a ferry boat across the harbor. The same Day Ticket is good on the Ferry, as well as all the Busses. So I crossed over to North Vancouver, with great views of the Mountains and the Harbour and shipping activities. After exploring the terminal area there, I returned, enjoying dramatic views of Downtown as we approached. Then I walked through the historic train station upstairs from the commuter station, and finally caught the SkyTrain back to the main RailRoad Station. The downtown section of the SkyTrain is in a Subway. Most of the rest of it is elevated, so the trip is very scenic and highlights a lot of very impressive modern Architecture throughout the town.
Late that afternoon the train departed for its triple-overnight run to Toronto, via Edmonton and Winnipeg. On our way up the Fraser River, there were great views of Mt. Baker, just over the Border in Washington State. Then darkness as we climbed the Fraser Canyon. By daybreak (Day 4) we were deep in the Mountains, and by late morning we had arrived at the town of Jasper. There was plenty of time before the afternoon Westbound would pull in, so I took a nice country walk across the Athabasca River and up to the top of a craggy overlook with clear views of the Mountains in every direction. On return to town, I got a big RootBeer at another A&W, then a full Chinese Dinner at a restaurant just across from the Station. Walking around the town it is often possible to see herds of Elk grazing on the Lawns. After lunch, I walked up to the north end of town, then back along the tracks to the Station. They have an interesting little store there for books, postcards, and souvenirs, much of it Rail-related. And the station itself is quite historic, of course.
Eventually the train arrived, and we headed back over YellowHead Pass into British Columbia. Before Sunset, we could see the base of Mt. Robson across a glacial lake, and some large waterfalls right near the train. The Canadian Train uses classic Dome Observation Cars, which were interesting. The Coach seats I found less comfortable than Amtrak, so the second night I slept in a dome car. Adequate, but pretty chilly. The Dining Car was a lot of fun, with bilingual service (English and French) and good-quality Canadian Food.
On Day 5, we crossed the lower Fraser Valley, beautiful agricultural land and small towns at the base of the Mountains, and then across the River and into Vancouver. The early arrival left the entire day free. I walked from the Station into Chinatown, and visited the famous Sun Yat Sen Gardens... said to be the only classical Chinese Garden in North America. Very beautiful, and well worth the visit. I picked up a nice little Jade carving for a souvenir, and asked their recommendations about lunch. They directed me to an absolute little hole-in-the-wall place in Chinatown, but the food was absolutely delicious! Best noodle lunch I've ever had, and great soup too. Then I wandered through Chinatown and into the historic Gastown neighborhood. Attractions there include authentic Cuban Cigars (but I don't smoke), and a steam-powered Clock standing on the sidewalk. Then up to the top of "Vancouver Lookout", a visitors center atop one of the tallest buildings downtown, with distant views in every direction. After pleasantly passing the rest of the afternoon there (staying dry while a rainstorm passed through town), I crossed the street to Waterfront Station where the SkyTrain terminal is, and returned from there to the main RailRoad Station.
That evening the Cascade Train carried us South, across the Border and along the shores of Puget Sound. There were wonderful views of Point Roberts and the San Juan Islands, and lots of bird life. That night I returned to the same motel where I had stayed before.
The morning of Day 6, I returned to the King Street Station in Seattle, with time to walk around and see another historic station just east of there, up the stairs and across the tracks. The Coast Starlight departed on schedule, with spectacular views of Mt. Rainier and Puget Sound. This was the first southbound train to pass through the re-opened Summit Tunnel, so this time we did not need a bus bypass. Sunset while climbing the Cascades south of Eugene was spectacular.
Due to some slow orders, it was daylight shortly after Dunsmuir (Day 7), allowing good views of Lake Shasta and the area around Redding and Chico, and with views of the Sacramento River. We continued on through Sacramento (with its historic station, and the famous RailRoad Museum next door) and my home station of Martinez. During most of the trip, people had supposed I worked for the RailRoad, and I did my best to handle their inquiries appropriately. By this time even the crew was convinced, figuring I was probably some kind of spy for the Customer Service department. Although my ticket said "Martinez", I stayed on the train and showed them another ticket (which I'd picked up with my Pass after making the first set of plans) good through Los Angeles. Recognizing that it was issued in unusual circumstances (not part of any simple reservation), they simply wouldn't believe my story. But the quality of service was good and continued to improve, so I can't complain.
On my first trip, I had hoped to head South from Sacramento or Martinez, catching the midnight Bus from Bakersfield to San Diego, and the Surfliner North from there at Sunrise. My wife had done that part of the trip as planned, and said it was well worthwhile. Since I'd missed that connection the first try, I figured this would be my big chance. So on down the Coast to Los Angeles. When we got to the Ocean at Vandenberg AFB, it was long after Sunset, but now the Full Moon illuminated the Waters and made for an unforgettable and romantic passage, all the way through Santa Barbara to Ventura where the train turns inland.
Coming Southbound through the Cascades, I was seated next to a young lady who looked like she really needed both seats to sleep comfortably... and who had a cold besides. I decided to sleep in the lounge. People do this regularly, finding out-of-the-way places on the floor or under the tables. [i tried this in Germany the next year, and the Conductors were outraged. Nothing so irregular on THEIR trains, thank you!] I had the brilliant idea that I could lie sideways across a couple of the lounge chairs. Apart from being curled up pretty tight (for my 6'2" build), there was some obstruction between the seats that kept jabbing me in the ribs. Especially every time we hit a bump. And it was a bumpy section of track. Next morning I was pretty sore, and I do not plan to repeat that particular approach again.
So we got into LAX sometime after Midnight. The Station remains open all night, and permits you to stay if you can show them a valid ticket for imminent travel on Amtrak. The atmosphere is strange, with every noise echoing through the emptiness, and various sorts of folks being escorted out for inadequate ticketing or excessive alcohol on board. And the chairs, while fine for sitting in, are really quite miserable as "sleepers". Scrunched over against one armrest, jabbing me right in the ribs, same place as before... I think it took about a month before my ribs felt right again!
Soon enough, dawn came (Day 8) and the world (and the Station) came back to life. I caught the first Surfliner South to San Diego, for a beautiful early morning run along the Pacific Ocean, then immediately turned around back to LAX. From there, it was a bus to Bakersfield, then the San Joaquin Train to Martinez, and the Amtrak Bus brought me home from there the same evening.
This section of the trip covered 3065 rail miles on Amtrak, 1076 miles on VIA Rail, and 95 miles on the CalTrain. Total of 4236 miles. Plus the first section (11 days, San Diego - Boston - Sacramento etc) had 8188 miles on Amtrak. Grand total 12424 miles, including 11253 miles on Amtrak. Would I do it again? Absolutely! And I pretty much have... and plan to again as opportunity permits. Every trip is an adventure, but also a chance to learn, to improve technique, to pick up helpful pointers. Here's hoping that these posts may inspire or inform others in building the plans for their own Adventures by Rail!
Bye for now.
This time I would be leaving my hometown on the Amtrak Bus. Since the Northbound CS comes thru late in the evening, there would be time to explore the Bay Area by rail in the meantime. So to maximize the opportunity, I caught the first Bus out of town at daybreak. At Martinez Station there was time to walk around outdoors, seeing the Steam Locomotive on exhibit there and Alhambra Creek on the other end of the platforms (near where the Beaver Dam is now). The first train Westbound/Southbound only ran as far as Oakland (Jack London Square). From there, I took the Ferryboat across to San Francisco (Fisherman's Wharf). Then the same boat back along the Waterfront, stopping at the Ferry Bldg (foot of Market Street, where Amtrak has a full-service station but no tracks) and then crossing under the Bay Bridge and past Yerba Buena Island to enter the Alameda Channel, part of the Oakland Harbor. Lots of large container-ships being loaded with huge cranes. Back at Jack London Square, I was in time for the next train to San Jose, by way of Hayward and the Salt Flats on the Southern end of the Bay. Arriving in San Jose, I was still plenty early, so I took a round-trip on the CalTrain, up the Peninsula past Palo Alto to San Francisco. I rode the new Light-Rail extension from the Depot at 4th and King, past the new Ballpark (with crowds arriving for a Baseball Game there) and along the South part of the Embarcadero, then entering the Market Street Subway. At the Embarcadero Station I got off and caught the next car back to 4th and King, then the next CalTrain to San Jose. Lots of interesting urban and suburban scenery along the way, and some views of the Bay and marshlands, and the East Bay Hills and Mt. Diablo beyond.
Later that night, I caught the northbound Coast Starlight. I watched the sparkling lights and familiar landmarks as far as Sacramento, then slept comfortably in my Coach accommodations as previously. At daybreak (Day 2), we were passing the last reaches of Lake Shasta on the way to Dunsmuir. After a dramatic climb out of the canyon, we emerged onto the high plateau with a morning view of Mt. Shasta. This was exactly where a delay from the schedule comes in very handy. We continued across the Volcanic landscape into Oregon. At Klamath Falls we transferred to a bus, because of the recent fire in the Summit Tunnel I had mentioned previously. After a long ride through thick forests of conifers, we arrived at Eugene, where the Train was waiting for us. From there it was a smooth trip to Seattle, arriving late that night.
I took a taxi to a bargain Motel I'd found on the Internet. It worked out OK, but next time I'd rather stay at the Pioneer Square Hotel which is nicer and close to the Station (walking distance by daylight). Next morning (Day 3) it was back to the Station in time for the Cascade Train to Vancouver BC. Wonderful scenery along the shores of Puget Sound, worth the whole trip just for that. On arrival in Vancouver, the Customs folks wanted to know what I would be doing in Canada. I told them "Riding the Rails" (not knowing that probably meant hopping Freights illegally...), to Jasper and immediately back again to Seattle. That sounded unusual to them, but after reviewing my tickets they decided everything was in order.
In the Station, we saw the Rocky Mountaineer Train (luxury tours to Jasper and Banff) and some elegant Private Cars. I had most of the day free before departing Eastbound that evening. The SkyTrain has a Station just across a small park from the RailRoad Station. The Skytrain is like a LightRail or PeopleMover system, completely computer operated, and driven by a linear magnetic induction motor. I rode South to the station just before the River, and transferred to the line that crosses the Fraser River on its own dramatic cable-stay bridge (that looks too flimsy for Anything to cross on it, let alone any kind of rail vehicle), to the end of the line and back again. Great views of the City and its setting among the Mountains. On crossing the River again, I transferred back to the first line to complete the loop, going first North along the River and then West along the RailRoad Right-of-Way. That line ended at a transfer station where I enjoyed lunch... Hamburger and RootBeer at an A&W restaurant, then back to the SkyTrain northbound towards downtown. (All of this on an economical all-day ticket. I think it was on a Sunday, which gave a better deal). At that end on the line, there is a commuter rail station (rush-hour service only, unfortunately) and a ferry boat across the harbor. The same Day Ticket is good on the Ferry, as well as all the Busses. So I crossed over to North Vancouver, with great views of the Mountains and the Harbour and shipping activities. After exploring the terminal area there, I returned, enjoying dramatic views of Downtown as we approached. Then I walked through the historic train station upstairs from the commuter station, and finally caught the SkyTrain back to the main RailRoad Station. The downtown section of the SkyTrain is in a Subway. Most of the rest of it is elevated, so the trip is very scenic and highlights a lot of very impressive modern Architecture throughout the town.
Late that afternoon the train departed for its triple-overnight run to Toronto, via Edmonton and Winnipeg. On our way up the Fraser River, there were great views of Mt. Baker, just over the Border in Washington State. Then darkness as we climbed the Fraser Canyon. By daybreak (Day 4) we were deep in the Mountains, and by late morning we had arrived at the town of Jasper. There was plenty of time before the afternoon Westbound would pull in, so I took a nice country walk across the Athabasca River and up to the top of a craggy overlook with clear views of the Mountains in every direction. On return to town, I got a big RootBeer at another A&W, then a full Chinese Dinner at a restaurant just across from the Station. Walking around the town it is often possible to see herds of Elk grazing on the Lawns. After lunch, I walked up to the north end of town, then back along the tracks to the Station. They have an interesting little store there for books, postcards, and souvenirs, much of it Rail-related. And the station itself is quite historic, of course.
Eventually the train arrived, and we headed back over YellowHead Pass into British Columbia. Before Sunset, we could see the base of Mt. Robson across a glacial lake, and some large waterfalls right near the train. The Canadian Train uses classic Dome Observation Cars, which were interesting. The Coach seats I found less comfortable than Amtrak, so the second night I slept in a dome car. Adequate, but pretty chilly. The Dining Car was a lot of fun, with bilingual service (English and French) and good-quality Canadian Food.
On Day 5, we crossed the lower Fraser Valley, beautiful agricultural land and small towns at the base of the Mountains, and then across the River and into Vancouver. The early arrival left the entire day free. I walked from the Station into Chinatown, and visited the famous Sun Yat Sen Gardens... said to be the only classical Chinese Garden in North America. Very beautiful, and well worth the visit. I picked up a nice little Jade carving for a souvenir, and asked their recommendations about lunch. They directed me to an absolute little hole-in-the-wall place in Chinatown, but the food was absolutely delicious! Best noodle lunch I've ever had, and great soup too. Then I wandered through Chinatown and into the historic Gastown neighborhood. Attractions there include authentic Cuban Cigars (but I don't smoke), and a steam-powered Clock standing on the sidewalk. Then up to the top of "Vancouver Lookout", a visitors center atop one of the tallest buildings downtown, with distant views in every direction. After pleasantly passing the rest of the afternoon there (staying dry while a rainstorm passed through town), I crossed the street to Waterfront Station where the SkyTrain terminal is, and returned from there to the main RailRoad Station.
That evening the Cascade Train carried us South, across the Border and along the shores of Puget Sound. There were wonderful views of Point Roberts and the San Juan Islands, and lots of bird life. That night I returned to the same motel where I had stayed before.
The morning of Day 6, I returned to the King Street Station in Seattle, with time to walk around and see another historic station just east of there, up the stairs and across the tracks. The Coast Starlight departed on schedule, with spectacular views of Mt. Rainier and Puget Sound. This was the first southbound train to pass through the re-opened Summit Tunnel, so this time we did not need a bus bypass. Sunset while climbing the Cascades south of Eugene was spectacular.
Due to some slow orders, it was daylight shortly after Dunsmuir (Day 7), allowing good views of Lake Shasta and the area around Redding and Chico, and with views of the Sacramento River. We continued on through Sacramento (with its historic station, and the famous RailRoad Museum next door) and my home station of Martinez. During most of the trip, people had supposed I worked for the RailRoad, and I did my best to handle their inquiries appropriately. By this time even the crew was convinced, figuring I was probably some kind of spy for the Customer Service department. Although my ticket said "Martinez", I stayed on the train and showed them another ticket (which I'd picked up with my Pass after making the first set of plans) good through Los Angeles. Recognizing that it was issued in unusual circumstances (not part of any simple reservation), they simply wouldn't believe my story. But the quality of service was good and continued to improve, so I can't complain.
On my first trip, I had hoped to head South from Sacramento or Martinez, catching the midnight Bus from Bakersfield to San Diego, and the Surfliner North from there at Sunrise. My wife had done that part of the trip as planned, and said it was well worthwhile. Since I'd missed that connection the first try, I figured this would be my big chance. So on down the Coast to Los Angeles. When we got to the Ocean at Vandenberg AFB, it was long after Sunset, but now the Full Moon illuminated the Waters and made for an unforgettable and romantic passage, all the way through Santa Barbara to Ventura where the train turns inland.
Coming Southbound through the Cascades, I was seated next to a young lady who looked like she really needed both seats to sleep comfortably... and who had a cold besides. I decided to sleep in the lounge. People do this regularly, finding out-of-the-way places on the floor or under the tables. [i tried this in Germany the next year, and the Conductors were outraged. Nothing so irregular on THEIR trains, thank you!] I had the brilliant idea that I could lie sideways across a couple of the lounge chairs. Apart from being curled up pretty tight (for my 6'2" build), there was some obstruction between the seats that kept jabbing me in the ribs. Especially every time we hit a bump. And it was a bumpy section of track. Next morning I was pretty sore, and I do not plan to repeat that particular approach again.
So we got into LAX sometime after Midnight. The Station remains open all night, and permits you to stay if you can show them a valid ticket for imminent travel on Amtrak. The atmosphere is strange, with every noise echoing through the emptiness, and various sorts of folks being escorted out for inadequate ticketing or excessive alcohol on board. And the chairs, while fine for sitting in, are really quite miserable as "sleepers". Scrunched over against one armrest, jabbing me right in the ribs, same place as before... I think it took about a month before my ribs felt right again!
Soon enough, dawn came (Day 8) and the world (and the Station) came back to life. I caught the first Surfliner South to San Diego, for a beautiful early morning run along the Pacific Ocean, then immediately turned around back to LAX. From there, it was a bus to Bakersfield, then the San Joaquin Train to Martinez, and the Amtrak Bus brought me home from there the same evening.
This section of the trip covered 3065 rail miles on Amtrak, 1076 miles on VIA Rail, and 95 miles on the CalTrain. Total of 4236 miles. Plus the first section (11 days, San Diego - Boston - Sacramento etc) had 8188 miles on Amtrak. Grand total 12424 miles, including 11253 miles on Amtrak. Would I do it again? Absolutely! And I pretty much have... and plan to again as opportunity permits. Every trip is an adventure, but also a chance to learn, to improve technique, to pick up helpful pointers. Here's hoping that these posts may inspire or inform others in building the plans for their own Adventures by Rail!
Bye for now.
