p&sr
OBS Chief
My next chance to travel by Amtrak was in December of 2004. My daughter was a senior in high school, and we had been visiting lots of colleges here in California. She was also hoping to see some back East, so we decided to travel there together by train over her Christmas break.
My wife drove us to Emeryville so we could catch the California Zephyr at the beginning of its run. On boarding our Coach, we were permitted to take any seats we wanted, so we chose seats with good views on the left side (so we could see the Bay as we began our trip) about 1/3 of the way up from the rear of the coach. Too near either end reduces the view. On other trains, where they assign seats just prior to boarding, I always ask for a window seat with a good view, and specify which side of the train I'd like. Almost every time the assignment works out fine, thanks to arriving early and being near the start of the line. Otherwise, there's always the lounge car.
After a scenic day crossing familiar territory and then the Sierra Nevada mountains, we headed out onto the Nevada Desert. There the train began to slow down, and eventually stopped just after dark. It was announced that there was a broken rail on the track ahead of us, probably due to the cold weather. So we stayed where we were for about five hours while they repaired the track. Once we were underway again, we could relax and get some sleep.
The next morning (Day 2) we saw the snow-covered Wasatch Range by sunrise as we approached Provo, Utah. The climb over the mountains from Spanish Fork to Price was very interesting. Most of the streams were frozen, which is a novelty to those of us from Coastal California. The dramatic scenery continued with Ruby Canyon (on the Colorado Border), where we saw a number of Bald Eagles. We followed the Colorado River upstream, through Grand Valley, Glenwood Canyon, Red Canyon, Gore Canyon, and Byers Canyon. Each Canyon had its distinctive characteristics and colors. There was lots of ice on the River, and many frozen cascades on the Canyon walls. At Fraser and Winter Park we saw lots of people skiing and playing in the snow.
After the Moffat Tunnel it quickly became dark. We got outstanding views of the sparkling lights of Denver as we worked our way down from the Rockies. Then a quiet night crossing the Prairies into Nebraska. Continuing into Day 3, we crossed the Mississippi River at Burlington and arrived in Chicago only moderately behind schedule. We thought we would have an easy connection to the Lake Shore Limited, but it turned out that all the Coaches had frozen up so none of the plumbing would work. Departure was in the middle of the night, about five hours late by the time they could get the cars thawed out. In the meantime, we'd explored the station and stepped outside to get a glimpse of the city.
On Day 4 we were crossing New York State in a snowstorm. At Albany we transferred to the Boston Train, and finally arrived there at 2:00 AM, after all public transportation had shut down for the night. So we took a taxi to our motel near Harvard Square in Cambridge.
We had a couple of days free in Boston. We visited Harvard and MIT and the excellent Bookstores there. Also the Natural History Museum at Harvard. We walked the Freedom Trail through the historic districts of Boston, and had a Lobster Lunch at Faneuil Hall (Quincy Market). We rode the Mattapan High-Speed Line (historic PCC streetcar) and the Riverside Line (the "Green Line", beginning under the Boston Commons as part of the oldest Subway in America and continuing through the towns west of Boston in the manner of an Inter-Urban Line). And my daughter enjoyed Ice Skating on the Frog Pond in the Park by the State House.
On Christmas Day (5th day involving Amtrak), we were ready to head West. We rode the Red Line subway from our Motel to the South Station, then took a morning Acela Train to New York (Penn Station). It was interesting to travel 150 mph on the ground, and the scenery along the shores of Connecticut was wonderful. But for future use, I'll prefer the Regional. 125 is plenty fast enough, and actually allows a much better appreciation for the scenery.
We had plenty of time to explore Penn Station, including of course the Food Court. Lots of holiday travellers. That afternoon we caught the Lake Shore Limited, which takes an interesting route along the west edge of Manhattan Island and then heads up the Hudson River to Albany. The scenery along the water was truly wonderful, highlighted by a fine sunset as we continued northward. At Albany-Rensselaer they switched engines (from Electric to Diesel) and we waited for the Train from Boston. Then on our way West once more.
Next morning (Day 6) in Ohio we encountered heavy snow, but the train was not delayed. We had a smooth arrival into Chicago, and passed several hours in the Great Hall waiting for our next train. The final hour we spent in the regular waiting room (as recommended) so we could hear any announcements and be near the start of the line for good seats.
Days 6 through 8 we were on the California Zephyr. The trip was beautiful if unremarkable, and reasonably on schedule until approaching Sacramento. It turned out that heavy rains across the State were flooding towns, blocking highways, and even delaying trains. The announcements consoled us by saying that it wouldn't make any difference if we WERE at the Station on time, you still couldn't leave there by car or get anywhere!
We arrived at Emeryville, the end of the line, in the evening. My wife was there waiting for us, and had succeeded in finding ways around all the highway obstructions. After sharing dinner at a restaurant along the way, we returned home in good condition and in good spirits.
Total of 10 days away from home, 8 days on Amtrak. 7083 miles.
Combined with my trips of August 2004 as reported here, brings the total to 19507 miles on North American Rail, including 18336 miles on Amtrak.
My wife drove us to Emeryville so we could catch the California Zephyr at the beginning of its run. On boarding our Coach, we were permitted to take any seats we wanted, so we chose seats with good views on the left side (so we could see the Bay as we began our trip) about 1/3 of the way up from the rear of the coach. Too near either end reduces the view. On other trains, where they assign seats just prior to boarding, I always ask for a window seat with a good view, and specify which side of the train I'd like. Almost every time the assignment works out fine, thanks to arriving early and being near the start of the line. Otherwise, there's always the lounge car.
After a scenic day crossing familiar territory and then the Sierra Nevada mountains, we headed out onto the Nevada Desert. There the train began to slow down, and eventually stopped just after dark. It was announced that there was a broken rail on the track ahead of us, probably due to the cold weather. So we stayed where we were for about five hours while they repaired the track. Once we were underway again, we could relax and get some sleep.
The next morning (Day 2) we saw the snow-covered Wasatch Range by sunrise as we approached Provo, Utah. The climb over the mountains from Spanish Fork to Price was very interesting. Most of the streams were frozen, which is a novelty to those of us from Coastal California. The dramatic scenery continued with Ruby Canyon (on the Colorado Border), where we saw a number of Bald Eagles. We followed the Colorado River upstream, through Grand Valley, Glenwood Canyon, Red Canyon, Gore Canyon, and Byers Canyon. Each Canyon had its distinctive characteristics and colors. There was lots of ice on the River, and many frozen cascades on the Canyon walls. At Fraser and Winter Park we saw lots of people skiing and playing in the snow.
After the Moffat Tunnel it quickly became dark. We got outstanding views of the sparkling lights of Denver as we worked our way down from the Rockies. Then a quiet night crossing the Prairies into Nebraska. Continuing into Day 3, we crossed the Mississippi River at Burlington and arrived in Chicago only moderately behind schedule. We thought we would have an easy connection to the Lake Shore Limited, but it turned out that all the Coaches had frozen up so none of the plumbing would work. Departure was in the middle of the night, about five hours late by the time they could get the cars thawed out. In the meantime, we'd explored the station and stepped outside to get a glimpse of the city.
On Day 4 we were crossing New York State in a snowstorm. At Albany we transferred to the Boston Train, and finally arrived there at 2:00 AM, after all public transportation had shut down for the night. So we took a taxi to our motel near Harvard Square in Cambridge.
We had a couple of days free in Boston. We visited Harvard and MIT and the excellent Bookstores there. Also the Natural History Museum at Harvard. We walked the Freedom Trail through the historic districts of Boston, and had a Lobster Lunch at Faneuil Hall (Quincy Market). We rode the Mattapan High-Speed Line (historic PCC streetcar) and the Riverside Line (the "Green Line", beginning under the Boston Commons as part of the oldest Subway in America and continuing through the towns west of Boston in the manner of an Inter-Urban Line). And my daughter enjoyed Ice Skating on the Frog Pond in the Park by the State House.
On Christmas Day (5th day involving Amtrak), we were ready to head West. We rode the Red Line subway from our Motel to the South Station, then took a morning Acela Train to New York (Penn Station). It was interesting to travel 150 mph on the ground, and the scenery along the shores of Connecticut was wonderful. But for future use, I'll prefer the Regional. 125 is plenty fast enough, and actually allows a much better appreciation for the scenery.
We had plenty of time to explore Penn Station, including of course the Food Court. Lots of holiday travellers. That afternoon we caught the Lake Shore Limited, which takes an interesting route along the west edge of Manhattan Island and then heads up the Hudson River to Albany. The scenery along the water was truly wonderful, highlighted by a fine sunset as we continued northward. At Albany-Rensselaer they switched engines (from Electric to Diesel) and we waited for the Train from Boston. Then on our way West once more.
Next morning (Day 6) in Ohio we encountered heavy snow, but the train was not delayed. We had a smooth arrival into Chicago, and passed several hours in the Great Hall waiting for our next train. The final hour we spent in the regular waiting room (as recommended) so we could hear any announcements and be near the start of the line for good seats.
Days 6 through 8 we were on the California Zephyr. The trip was beautiful if unremarkable, and reasonably on schedule until approaching Sacramento. It turned out that heavy rains across the State were flooding towns, blocking highways, and even delaying trains. The announcements consoled us by saying that it wouldn't make any difference if we WERE at the Station on time, you still couldn't leave there by car or get anywhere!
We arrived at Emeryville, the end of the line, in the evening. My wife was there waiting for us, and had succeeded in finding ways around all the highway obstructions. After sharing dinner at a restaurant along the way, we returned home in good condition and in good spirits.
Total of 10 days away from home, 8 days on Amtrak. 7083 miles.
Combined with my trips of August 2004 as reported here, brings the total to 19507 miles on North American Rail, including 18336 miles on Amtrak.
