Winter Chicago Photo Travelogue

[The Metropolitan]

For those of you who may have finished WAR AND PEACE and found it to be too short, I present my travelogue...

Ever seen the show "Stormchasers" on the Weather Channel?!? It's a show where a band of folks deliberately chase down Tornadoes and such. While everyone else is fleeing, these people are heading towards the eye of the storm.

I've always wondered about the sanity of these folks. After all, who in their right mind deliberately thrusts themselves into nasty weather?

Well, now it appears I must question my own sanity, as I deliberately take a trip to the "Windy City" of Chicago on the President's Day weekend. When most people in my area would be heading to mild climates such as Florida, I'm taking a "vacation" into the frigid midwest.

"Why?!?...," one would ask. A good question. The answer lies largely within the need to get away and take a train ride while on a limited travel budget due to other (later) trips planned and partially paid for. Besides, it's been a rather dull winter here in Baltimore (where, despite our rather northeasterly bearing, we fear snow with a horrific passion), so it might be nice to get just a slight taste of a true winter.

When Amtrak's "Hot Deals" page revealed a number of trains from this area at some significant reductions, I knew I had to ride SOMEWHERE!!! Initially, the plan was less mild, a ride to Pittsburgh and back on the Capitol Limited from DC was less than $50!!! However, given the late arrival into the Burgh, and the early departure, such a plan would require a TWO night stay just to get one true day to spend there. By the time that added up, the bargain fare was running me over $200 once I added in the hotel.

On a whim, I decided to make the journey more adventurous. Since Amtrak arrives in Chicago conveniently in the morning, and leaves conveniently in the evening, how about looking into Chitown as a destination. Looking on Hotwire revealed just what an OFF travel season it is for Chicago in February, with 4 Star Hotels in the Loop going for under $75 a night (try this in Summertime, and you'll find them listed at over $200!).

So now my crazy plan was set. After some tinkering with the dates, I discovered the best plan was to leave Baltimore on the Thursday ahead of the holiday, arrive in Chicago on Friday morning, spend the day there, camp overnight in a hotel, then spend another day in Chicago before leaving back out that Saturday evening, to arrive back in Baltimore on Sunday. Choosing this plan allowed me to mix up the itinerary, heading to Chicago on the Capitol Limited (via Pittsburgh and Cleveland) and returning on the Cardinal (via Indianapolis and Cincinnatti). Round trip train travel was $93, while the hotel came out to $80, so I was getting days of adventure and scenery for less than $175!

Fortunately, one of my friends was as crazy as I am, so he volunteered to journey with me. While not the train junkie I am, he was at least receptive to the trip, and wanted to experience Chitown at it's "finest," so I was pleased to have his company for this journey.

Despite making a Chicago journey before, this trip would be different in a number of respects. First, it would be my first time aboard both trains #29 and #50. I'd ridden #30 and #51 before, but taking the trains opposite direction would allow me the chance to get lots of new daylight scenery I missed before, most notably West Virginia's New River Gorge. Also, despite dozens of train rides, this would also be the very first time I can ever recall taking a train (in this case #29) from its origin to its terminus. Finally, unlike my last trip to Chicago, my itinerary for this trip would be much more transit focused.

My transportation to and from Chicago includes just one notable missing link. While the returning Cardinal will drop me into Baltimore, the outbound Capitol Limited offers no such convenience, and thus, we must make our way to Washington DC in order to board it. There are numerous ways to accomplish this, but the IDEAL way to do this would be to catch MARC's Camden Line to Washington DC. Why you might ask?

For a number of years around the early to mid 1960's, Baltimore's Camden Station on the B&O was the actual ORIGIN for the Capitol Limited. Riding the MARC Camden commuter line would merely replicate the original journey taken by the Capitol Limited from Baltimore, travelling along a portion of the original Main Line to "Relay" before heading into DC through Laurel, albeit with much more spartan, functional equipment than the Capitol of old.

However, the current MARC schedule is not exactly the most functional towards maintaining the historic connection to the Capitol Limited. Yesteryear, the Limited traditionally left Baltimore about 3:20pm, leaving Washington Union at 4:30pm. Today's Capitol Limited leaves at 4:00pm, but the first PM MARC Train leaves Camden Station at 3:30pm, arriving in Washington at 4:38pm, missing the connection. The best alternate for those who wish to replicate the historic route is to catch the last AM train - the 8:15am, arriving in Washington at 9:27am, thus leaving a 6.5 hour window between the connection, fine if you'd like to spend a day sightseeing in pleasant weather, but when it's February, and you're toughing it out in "Coach" the following night, you tend to want to leave as late (and as clean) as possible, and not to do any needless sweating until the next time you can access a shower.

With that in mind, it's time to consider the less "historic" alternates: Amtrak, MARC Penn, or the Light Rail/B-30 Bus/DC Metro adventure. Amtrak offers the most comfy ride and the benefit of AGR points, while the rail/bus/rail route offers the cheapest way to travel. MARC Penn lies right in between, at half the base Amtrak fare, and taking only slightly longer. Since I'm packing rather light with only a big bookbag as my luggage, it seems the perfect choice. Were I lugging a rolling case or if Amtrak had a double points promotion going on, I'd have likely booked a ticket on Amtrak to DC. If I were only going to Pittsburgh, I'd have probably been receptive to the adventurous route, but given my itinerary, MARC's 1:40 PM trip to DC seems like the best option.

So armed with a very well packed backpack, and dressed for the weather, I set off from home at 12:30pm to catch the #61 bus to Penn Station. It arrives on perfect time, and we're at Penn Station at about 1:00pm. Once there, it's off to the window to pick up the tickets, and snatch a MARC ticket to reach DC. At about 1:30pm, my commuter train is called for boarding, and I make my way to the platform to find a set of Kawasaki bilevels awaiting me. Unlike most trips, I opt for a seat on the lower level, hoping it will make better train watching than the upper level, where only indistinct rooflines pass by on the other track. It doesn't. Now, only the lower siding is visible.as we pass other trains.

We launch at 1:43pm to allow a late running SB Regional priority, and make our journey from Baltimore to DC. The ride is rather lightly travelled, and quiet with the exception of one man who continually rustles newspaper, which gradually irks me. Still, we arrive in DC at good time before 2:40pm.

From here, I'm off through Union Station DC for a few travel necessities: a rail magazine, mints, cough drops, bottled water, and a small flask of whiskey for a nightcap. At 3:20, I head towards the gates and find the Capitol Limited's gate finally posted, where I await my friend, who finally arrives at abut 3:35pm. At about 3:45, the sold out train is called for the boarding of coach passengers, and we make our way out to see the consist of two locos, two (! +) baggage cars, transition sleeper, two sleepers, diner, sightseer, and two (! -) coaches awaiting us. Unlike previous trips, on this one, the conductors divy us up by destination (TOL & CHI in 1st coach, all others in rear) and give us prenumbered seat checks upon boarding. We make our way up the stairs and take our spots in seats 13 and 14. Oh, joy! Right above the trucks, and no outlet!

Still, the Superliner, while a tad worn, is still clean and comfy, and its nice and warm as well - perfect to combat the cold temps outside, which are never evident from its cozy confines. The train seems primped for its journey, as the passengers file in to fill up the available seats.

At 4:05pm, we're off, and the Amtrak journey has officially begun. As we nudge through the tracks of the throat and onto the connection to the CSX Metropolitan Sub, the annoucements come regarding this evening's offerings in the dining car, and the announcement that the LSA will be taking reservations soon, as well as a welcome from Jesus in the Lounge Car, who will make a number of humorous calls during the trip.

VRE consists awaiting departure

Just after our ticket is collected, my friend and I journey just a few steps forward to the pristine lounge car for the glide through the Washington suburbs. Soon enough, we're at Rockville, where there look to be 8 more people boarding. As the lounge car begins to fill with the early drinkers, and I see the LSA making his way in to take down the reservations, I opt to grab my coach seat back and get my dinner reservation in.

Our Lounge Car

The choices are 5, 530, 730, or 8. Since I was hoping for a 7pm, I opt for the 730 seating, by which point we should hopefully be near Cumberland. Most of the next bit of time is spent looking out the window, or casually eavesdropping on other's conversations. As with other LD train rides I've taken, our patronage this evening is a pretty full sample of the melting pot of America. At the moment, everyone is getting along well, and the ride is proceeding smoothly, as we glide past the old C&O Canal, across the bridge into Harper's Ferry, and onto Martinsburg, as announcements from our Conductor point out some significant historical facts on all three.

Coming across into Harpers Ferry

Passing the roundhouse at Harpers Ferry

I did confess I was eavesdropping at times, but it's not as bad as it sounds. It's just that I know that most people aboard my train right now are not train junkies like myself, and I'm always curious to know how and why people ride the train, where they're coming from and where they're going. It just kind of makes for impromptu entertainment during a long ride.

Interestingly, many of our riders are aboard our train this evening out of necessity, as their originally booked flights have been cancelled, and the airlines could not book them a flight until 3 days from now. We've got a young man going from New York to Austin to visit a sick brother. This was his only option after the flights were cancelled, and train #49 as well. A young lady near us is going from Atlanta to Arizona, while others are merely bound for Chicago like ourselves. Later, I'll talk to others and learn where they're heading and what brought them aboard.

As we approach Cumberland at dusk, my Dinner Reservation time is called (my friend declines to join), and I'm off to the dining car, where I'm seated with two other young men. One is the young gent sitting right behind me going to Austin. The other is a nice middle aged man in the rear coach who is heading from Washington to South Bend, where his wife will pick him up to visit relatives. He states he used to ride through to Chicago, but has since found it faster to hop off at South Bend. Later I'll see why. He states he's never had the nerve to do a full round trip, always opting for one way, but seems to enjoy the train a lot, and even asks us if either of us managed to get the "discount ticket." Unlike my seatmate at Dinner, I did. The young gent heading to Austin is pleased to be making his first trip across the country on Amtrak, and pleased to be moving instead of sitting in New York for 3 days waiting for a plane.

So what's Dinner? For me, it's the Cheese Tortellini with Baked Potato and Green Beans. Our Austin bound rider takes the "Special" Country Fried Steak (seems that's on the menu more often than some of the regular items), while our South Bend bound rider asks if the Pork Chop is available without the gravy. When it is found that it is not, he opts instead for the Roast Chicken. Dinner for all of us does not disappoint. The Cheese Tortellini is very warming comfort food on what is known to be cold night. And lo and behold on this train at least, they seem to have gotten the green beans right!

A very satisfying meal

Soon enough, we finish up and pay our bills. I must say I'm quite satisfied for my $11.00. Kyle was an excellent server, and kept my iced tea glass and myself refreshed. Now it's off to make a quick stop at the Lounge Car for a shot of J.D. to put the final touches on me (in our opening announcements, they also offered the warning on my contraband booze!) and make me ready for some sleep. After fidgeting with my jacket and layers, I finally get comfy, and coast off soon after Connellsville, only to awaken just before Pittsburgh, though thinking I'm still a ways away from there. We glide into Pittsburgh only about 10 minutes down, and I stay awake just long enough to enjoy the outward journey from there before fading out again.

I awaken again, thinking little more than an hour has passed, and that we're launching from Alliance. WRONG! As it turns out, we're leaving Sandusky! I slept clear through Cleveland! I spend the next bit of time in a slumbering daze but make it a point to stay just astute enough to know when we're coming into Toledo, a station I was particularly interested in seeing, since it seems to retain a number of tracks and platforms, some of which are likely rarely used if ever. Sure enough, my supicions are confirmed when we glide into TOL and I count upwards of 12 tracks and 6 platforms to serve 4 daily trains!

Toledo's capacious station.

 

[The Metropolitan]

By the way, we're only 25 minutes late! Our ride is going splendidly, and I hope the Capitol continues to shine! But sadly, it starts to go downhill from here. Once we leave Toledo, the ride that is supposed to take 4.5 hours winds up taking over 11 hours! The trip from here to Waterloo is supposed to take 1:15, but instead takes about 2:10. But that's child's play compared to what's coming down the pike. Our ride to Elkhart should take less than an hour, but instead takes nearly 5 hours, most of which is spent at two prolonged stops of over an hour in length.

WATERLOO! Well, almost!

During this time, I avail myself of breakfast, and devour a Western Omlette that is good, if piping hot. My company is a lady returning to Chicago from Boston. As with the young man, she spent hours two days prior trying to get a flight from Logan when hers was cancelled, only to be pushed back 4 days. She took the chance on the train, and seems open to it, though understandably, the delays are beginning to try her patience. Across from me is a lady who boarded at Harpers Ferry, and is heading to see her Grandfather in Indiana. She's made this trek several times, and always enjoys the ride in spite of the headaches like those we're encountering. Later, we're joined by a young man heading from Carolina to Minot to visit his girlfriend in the service. For his situation, understandably he's not quite the patient type as he wants to get there soon, but is taking the ride in stride for now. He was supposed to be aboard yesterday's Capitol, but missed the connection, and was put up at Amtrak's expense.

Speaking of missed connections, as the delays mount, we are visited by a Customer Services Officer who begins to get an idea of who on this train is trying to connect at Chicago to other trains. On this train, there are a lot of people that fit this. We've got riders for the EB, SWC, and TE just within my immediate area, and as the delays continue, the prospects of them making their connections gets increasingly dim, even with us "gaining" an hour once we cross to CT zone. Personally, with my hotel check-in not occurring to 3pm and Chicago weather expected not to be the most hospitable, I'm rather amenable to losing a few hours off the advertised 8:40am time.

At LONG last. Elkhart. After a very tedious stretch!

So what is making us late?!? As you may have well guessed, freight congestion. As we slowly play leapfrog through this double track segment, we pass no less than 8 freights, finally getting into Elkhart at just before 12:45pm. We hope the worst is over, and we can get into Chicago by 2pm to 230pm to ensure people make their other trains, but it is not to be. South Bend comes fairly soon, but from there, the homestretch into Chicago is arduous. Passengers near me begin to bet about what time our train will finally get there, the highest "bid" being 3:21pm. As it turns out, even this bid is too low.

We're given a snack pack of cheese and crackers, trail mix, and water, that hopefully dilutes some of the booze that many have patronized Jesus in the lounge car so well with. The Customer Service agent returns a few times with some updates, but suspiciously, she ALWAYS comes in from the front, continues back, and never returns toward the front. I tend to think that after each pass of the coaches, she's been alighting from the lower level of the rear coach and sneaking back to the front along the tracks to keep people from bugging her too much.

Might be more soothing to look at it if it was Spring!

The news for our connecting riders is grim in nearly all cases, as the trains are unable to be held for our stop and go "Limited." After enjoying the leapfrog with the South Shore line for a time, I find myself bored as we stop several more times near some orchards. Finally, we get most of an all clear, and highball towards Gary before easing off for the ride into Chicago. Arrival finally comes at 3:49pm CT.

Dynomite! JJ's home is being demolished!

Not the most soothing place to be stopped. I think I prefer the icy orchard.

Most trains lack baggage cars. But our Capitol Limited has 2!

 

[The Metropolitan]

The finally arrived CL!

Well, to find the silver lining, Amtrak has now saved me $16! Since we arrived after 3pm, I can go straight to the hotel to check in, and do not need to use the storage lockers today. In addition, by arriving so late, I now only need to buy a ONE DAY CTA Pass instead of a 2 day pass! Making my way onto the street, I begin to wonder if I was a real fool in booking this trip, as it is COLD and VERY WINDY. Though we can take the 151 bus towards the hotel, we opt to walk it to get a good look at Chicago in rush hour. The walk winds up being longer and more taxing than expected, but we arrive safe and sound. We check in, and I get refreshed for an evening in Chicago.

Not a stunning view, but a view nonetheless.

Robert M. is kind enough to meet with us after he gets off of work, and we take off on a stroll through the loop getting a good look at CTA's afternoon peak service. We eventually wind up at Congress Plaza before boarding a bus to head back towards the Magnificent Mile for some deep dish pizza from Pizzeria Due. Though the wait is long, the pizza is great. Following this, we see him off on his bus towards home, and we settle in after the long day and crash. After sleeping in coach, it feels great to sleep horizontally once again.

CTA bus passing the Chicago Theatre

Pizzeria Due, mmmmmm!

The next morning, we awaken at about 7am to find our gamble has paid off. Not only is there a nice snowfall outside, but it's also CALM! We get prepped and head out to take some photos of CTA in the snow, working our way up the Magnificent Mile to the Water Tower before getting a #151 towards State Street to get some more photos near the loop. My friend, more bus focused than I am, then sets off towards the Southside while I return to the hotel to get a final good freshening before check out. Then it's back to Union to put my bag in a locker so I can do my own rambling about town.

In a sight to cool anyone off, we see this view of the Chicago River iced over.

CTA Novabus on Chicago Avenue near the Water Tower

 

[The Metropolitan]

The famous Water Tower

Some of the Chicago pigeons awaiting their green line train.

After taking a few quick hops across the El in the loop, I start to head out to Kimball on the brown before changing my mind and instead change at Fullerton to head to more familiar surroundings. I alight at Fullerton for a Red to Howard, then taking a Purple line train to Davis, so I can visit Evanston again. On arrival, I check in at the METRA Station to explore getting a METRA ride in. Trains today are running 2 hours apart, and one just left 20 minutes ago, so I debate on killing time near Evanston. Finally, I concede to my laziness, and simply grab some lunch from Noodles and Co, then take the Purple to Wilmette and back so I can film the 3rd rail grade crossings on the line.

Purple Line train at the Wilmette terminal

NB Metra train leaves Davis Station

On my return, I stroll just a bit more before heading to the METRA Station, where a crowd has now appeared on both platforms. Within minutes, the NB train rolls in, while ours is in view in the distance. Soon enough, the 3:00pm train glides in about 3 minutes behind. Our train winds up with nearly every seat filled by the time we leave, as I gather my $3.05 for this ride. Ironically, the Conductor on this train is the SAME one I had when I took my only other METRA ride months ago, a truly very pleasant fellow who does his job to perfection.

As before, METRA does not disappoint, making for a quick comfy ride back into town. We even get entertained when a bizarre old lady bursts into our car singing "If you're a baby and you know it, clap your hands!" She gets more odd looks than claps!

On our arrival at Ogilvie, our UP-N (CNW) train discharges its large load of weekend riders, and the "station" concourse is jumping with activity as people pass through and dawdle a bit before heading on their way. Since I have about 90 minutes before we meet back at Union, I simply walk a meandering path through the loop taking stills and video as I go. Finally, about 4:30pm, I decide it's time to make my way back to Union to get the 5:45pm Cardinal.

The ever famous Berghoff

The Quicktrak fails to show my reservations, so I worriedly wait in line at the counter (only now as I type this do I realize I reserved these tickets with a different card than usual) and finally get our tickets for train #50. During this time, I hear a lady frustratedly talking to someone else that her train to Indianapolis was going to be late since they were still waiting for the original train (#51) to come in so that it could be turned. It's now that I'm beginning to feel my lucky day starting to run out.

At 5:15, my friend finally comes in, and we make our way to the waiting room, where we simply see DELAYED DUE TO LATE TURN OF EQUIPMENT as the status for our train. On the arrivals screen, #51, due at 10:20am, is currently expected at 6:30pm.

Since it looks like the earliest we'll leave is 8pm, I figure it best to stroll up to the food court and pick up some dinner. Having heard quite a bit about Gold Coast Dogs, it seems only natural to try one. I opt for a Polish dressed up with fries and punch. Pretty darn good, though I'm not too sure I'll get one of those cravings for one when I'm 1000 miles away thankfully. Most of "dinner" is spent in the waiting room, watching the room gradually empty as train after train is called for boarding. From the Lincoln Service and IZ to the CL and eventually the CNO, every train gets called (some albeit late) except for ours and one other: the LSL, which tonight, has been cancelled for reasons unspecified.

Periodically, we receive updates about our train, which did finally arrive at 6:30pm, and is now in the yard for servicing due to frozen equipment. I mutter in my own mind wondering why the cancelled LSL's consist couldn't have filled in for ours, but concede that the diner vs. lounge difference may be the reason. Secretly, I hope that our equipment is bad ordered, and somehow they muster up a few Superliners to take us to DC. Unfortunately, neither scenario comes to pass, as the anticipated release of our train is pushed back to 9:00, then 9:30, then 10:00pm, etc. After a while, we begin to dismiss the subsequent reports, and merely concede that we'll get our train when we get it. To ease some of the tension, Amtrak offers us coffee or juice from the Met lounge.

Well it's good to know tomorrow's trains are already "BOARDING!" Ours sure isn't!

 

[The Metropolitan]

Finally, a bit past 11pm, the priority passengers get the nod to board the Cardinal, and near 11:30pm, we finally get our pass to head to track 15 to climb aboard. Heading to Baltimore, we'll be in the front coach, but have to wait for one family with enough luggage to fill a moving van to get their stuff aboard. Finally, we're on, and finally find a pair of seats again near the front trucks! ;(

I came to realize that the "5:45" shown in the Cardinal timetable tells you just how late it's going to leave!

11:35pm and we're off and rolling at last. By now, several of the passengers have already gotten to know each other, and those with the energy spend the last moments of February 18th playing laptops and portable DVD players. I'm ready for sleep however, and waste little time getting there, even if the Amfleet II seat is less than comfy. I awaken a few times when my legs start to lose feeling, and finally rise largely for good as we glide into Indy. It's already starting to show daylight as we pass the RCA dome, and finally come in to drop off the passengers who waited nearly 6 hours to ride just about as long. I drift a bit again for a while, but awaken to us waiting on a siding for a passing freight. Eventually, we get moving and make it to Connersville, IN.

There's a little less chatting this morning than there was on the Capitol, but I take this time to do some visual eavesdropping to see where the riders on our car are heading. Unlike my last Cardinal ride which saw little through ridership from East Coast cities to Chicago, this train offers quite a number of riders who boarded in Chicago heading to the Mid-Atlantic. WAS, WIL, PHL, and especially NYP are all seen, though ours seem to be the only BAL checks aboard. My guess is that 48's annullment has fed 50 some rather unorthodox ridership, a guess that would later be validated.

At times, I also guesstimate what time we'll actually arrive in Baltimore, just so I can figure if I'll need to get a cab home, or if I can take the bus. Still, there is much distance to go, so I resign to simply getting there when I get there, and figuring out the rest later.

Side benefit to the delay is that I'll be wide awake for the station stop in Cincinnati, finally giving me a good look at the grand station in daylight. At 10:40, we finally make our arrival into the 'nati, and I manage to pop off a couple of shots from the window.

Amtrak is pleased to now offer convenient daylight arrivals and departures from Cincinnati!

The hardy souls who spent the morning awaiting our train.

Bonus shot of the Cincy skyline.

Did I mention there's no coffee?!? When I noticed no one returning from the Cafe Car with it, I assumed frozen pipes. I assumed right. Now I assume I'll think twice before booking an overnight in an Amfleet train in cold weather!

After leaving Cincy, we head into Kentucky. So far, despite the late start, delays, and lack of java, the ride has not been too bad. The little girl bound for Philly behind me has made sudden best friends with two girls heading to Hinton, and they spend most of the day heading back and forth the cafe car and just being young at heart.

The ride through Kentucky is the only problem free state we encounter until we alight in Baltimore. As we glide through Vanceburg, we are clued to wave to the station agent at the Vanceburg station as we pass, and we do. Finally with reasonable ease, we roll out of Kentucky and finally into West Virginia at about 2:15pm. At this stage, coffee is finally available (complimentary no less), and we are again given the snack packs and water to help with the delays.

At 2:30, we come into Huntingdon, a smoking stop, and I take the time to stretch my legs and get a couple photos. To my surprise, there's a "visitor" on the rear of our train in the form of a Horizon coach. I don't know where it was added, as I'm certain that the train had just two A-II's on it when we left Chicago. As it turns out, the second A-II for "short" passengers lost heat, so perhaps it was added near Indy.

Now there's something you don't see on an "east coast" train!

As we prepare to leave Huntingdon, I pop in another DVD after watching of all things, Airplane, when the power craps out to the car. Our "quick" smoking stop in Huntingdon to change crew turns into over an hour of delay as they try to resolve the problem. Eventually, we get things patched up, and make our way out of town and on towards Charleston. By this point, our train is now OVER 8 HOURS late, and I'm beginning to worry if my desired trek through the New River Gorge in daylight is not to be.

Charleston, West Virginia

 

[The Metropolitan]

Fortunately, we make decent time into Montgomery, and soon after are heading into the wilds of the New River Gorge. I spend most of my time in awe at the depth of the place, and the rest in frustration that none of the photos I take even come close to portraying this depth. Shortly after we cross sides, I scurry back to an empty seat pair to catch whatever views I can of the gorge before the light finally dims. We pass Alderson without stopping, but let off a few people in Prince.

Heading into Montgomery near the start of the gorge.

Within the gorge. Very hard to get photos in the dying light.

Despite the delays, the train is still cordial and seemingly carefree. All that ends as we pull into Hinton and find that our power has again crapped out. After making our stop quickly, the crew scurries down to a wider section to work on the train for a bit. However, they tell us VERY little. Unlike the other crew which was pleasant and informative, this crew tends more toward surly and reserved. Despite my own fears of having the coach get ice cold, it actually gets stuffy! Of course, people start to get antsy, and with little information from the crew, they begin making phone calls to Amtrak to find out what they can, and complaining in the process. Despite having young kids in the coach, some dipwad decides their addiction to nicotene is the most important thing to them, and lights one up. For a spell, things get tense, while one group decides to air their thoughts in a letter seeking signatures wishing reimbursement and funds for "emotional distress." About 2 dozen people leave their names and emails. I do, if only to see how their luck goes. Haven't heard anything yet.

7:37pm aboard the dead Cardinal.

During this time, the information coming to us varies wildly, from a report that mechanics are coming and we'll be getting moving shortly, to one that they're sending buses, to another that buses will accomodate us in Charlottesville. The uncertainty and misinformation are troubling, as is the way in which the Lounge car was locked shortly before our power failure. One wonders if the sleeper passengers are as much in the dark as we (literally) are.

Finally, we get our power back to the car and begin rolling again. From here on out, the presence of the Conductors in our coach is fast and fleeting. At Thurmond, we pick up a family that has been here for over 9 hours waiting on this train to get to Trenton. And I thought WE had it bad. We seem to do no exchanges at White Suplhur Springs, as our stop is very quick, and before long, we're FINALLY leaving West Virginia.

Staunton comes rather quickly, and we pick up about a half dozen worn souls there. By this point, I'm wearing down, so I resign to trying to get a second night's sleep aboard this train. Sadly, I picked the worst time to do so, as we are now entering what has to be the WORST stretch of track I've ever ridden on, something akin to riding a really lousy stretch of the Chicago or Philly El for HOURS!!! The train rocks and shimmies and lurches to where its like riding on a rocky road. I state to a young lady I've befriended bound for DC that a woman sure could not wear a tube top riding on this stretch of track!

I fight for some sleep and come to a few times when my neck becomes too painful. One of these times, I realize we're coming into Charlottesville, so I hope the agony will end soon as we return to NS track. Charlottesville is not as busy as I expect, but considering its now past midnight, I gather there were many cancellations to our 2:47pm train!

Aflter leaving Charlottesville, I drop out again, only to reawaken thinking we're approaching Manassas, only to discover we're actually hitting Alexandria. Strangely, the young lady originally bound for DC who was now supposed to get picked up at Alexandria has already vanished. By now, most who are left are collapsed into their seats trying to make a night's rest. By now, I simply opt to rest my eyes for most of our approach into DC.

At DC, the seats opposite ours open up, and I cross over to just relax as we change our motive power. Interestingly, the first Monday train has already left DC on the NEC. By now, I'm content to just sit here for a bit and rest, but soon enough we're rolling out, and I spend most of the last half hour to Baltimore trying to make heads and tails of where we are. The ride up the corridor is very fast, almost too fast. We actually gained some of our time back with the DC padding, and now finally we hit the B&P tunnels into Baltimore, and then finally in sight is good old Pennsylvania Station. Home again!

It's 4:12am, and we were due here at 7:38pm. Very interestingly, the Horizon Coach is STILL on our tail, making this the first time I've ever seen one on a train on the NEC! I guess that's my small bonus on this ride.

The hen's tooth. A Horizon car on the NEC.

I wondered if the flap boards got frozen from sitting on the same setting for over 8 hours.

Good to see that archway again!

And Amtrak saved me some more money as well. Instead of just being dismally late, we're EXTREMELY late. So late that I can catch the first #3 of the morning to get me halfway home. Just saved cab fare, though the walk from the bus is a bit more than one thirsts for at 4:45 in the morning! Finally, I'm home at 5:30am, and I take 4 hours to finally treat myself to some horizontal sleep once again.

Lessons learned?!? I think I'm through with the Cardinal for now. The rough track and the slightly narrower A-II seat were not fun to try to sleep through for two nights. Even at it's worst, the Capitol wouldn't have taken two nights - I hope! And at least on there, the pipes work better, and you get something closer to a real dining experience. Besides, I've pretty much seen what I wanted to see on it, such as a good view of Cincy's station, and a trip through the New River Gorge at one interesting time of year!

 

[MrFSS]

WOW! Great report - I felt like I was there with you guys!

 

[AmtrakFan]

Sounds like a fun trip. Would you do the Capital Again? I remember having Equipment woes like this on my 2001 Hiawahta Trip.

 

[The Metropolitan]

Sounds like a fun trip. Would you do the Capital Again? I remember having Equipment woes like this on my 2001 Hiawahta Trip.

I would gladly do the Capitol again, even if the congestion West of Toledo can be literally excruciating. It would have probably been more bearable if A> I had an outlet to plug in my portable DVD player, and B> If the connecting passengers were to be making their connections; hearing their dissatisfaction with the added day to their journey was troubling.

In fact, I've got 2 upcoming trips on the Cap. March 31st, I'll be using it to return from a PGH 2 day trip, and in early May, I've got sleeper tix reserved on my longest trek to date: Denver to Baltimore.

Heck, despite the frustrations, I'd gladly take a trek to PGH for a weekend if only I didn't have other trips so closely planned.

 

[racer1735]

My son and I were on train #50 with you, as well. Heck, for that matter, we were on train #51 that you were waiting on!! Glad to hear your only complaint on the return trip was the 'smaller' seats. I decided the reason for the delayed boarding (equipment malfunction, according to Amtrak) was that one of the coaches kept tripping the circuit breaker when the heat kicked on. Which happened to be the coach we were assigned to. By the time we got to Dyer, you could literally see your breath in our car and it took until Rennselaer for the conductor to allow us to move to another coach (which was completely empty and VERY warm and comfortable). I'm not a big fan of wearing my heavy coat, hat and gloves when I'm ON the train. Will also admit that this was the first trip (up or back) that I didn't allow my son to walk the train as the vestibules were so caked with ice that it just wasn't safe to go from car to car.

Also, the lack of coffee towards the end of the run isn't anything new. Train 51 rarely has hot drinks or much to eat west of Indianapolis.

 

[Robert]

On Amtrak trains, are the coaches at the rear and the sleepers at the front?

Here in Canada the coaches are in the front, behind the baggage cars, then the sleepers (at least on The Canadian). I always figured that was so that if there's a derailment at the front end the first class passengers will survive in their beds at the back.

 

[AlanB]

On Amtrak trains, are the coaches at the rear and the sleepers at the front?

On most Amtrak trains, yes, that is the case sleepers at the front, coaches at the rear. There are a few exceptions though, for example the Empire Builder which actually has the coaches in the middle with a sleeper on the rear and two behind the engines. The Auto Train has sleeper behind the engines northbound, but the coaches are behind the engines southbound.

 

[TransAtlantic]

On Amtrak trains, are the coaches at the rear and the sleepers at the front?

On most Amtrak trains, yes, that is the case sleepers at the front, coaches at the rear. There are a few exceptions though, for example the Empire Builder which actually has the coaches in the middle with a sleeper on the rear and two behind the engines. The Auto Train has sleeper behind the engines northbound, but the coaches are behind the engines southbound.

There are also occasions when a train can't be wyed, and in the interest of saving time (yes, you read that right) Amtrak will run a consist in reverse (trust me...I've done it...and the sleeper passengers love it, since it gives them a nice rear view if there aren't any additional cars on the rear!)

 

[Guest]

Really enjoyed your report, although I must admit I probably wouldn't have enjoyed the ride. (delays). I rode the CL a number of years back when it was the premier way between Chicago and N.Y. Its very sad to read what has happened to the on time perfomance of the trains of late. Makes you wonder how long this can continue before it effects passenger revenue in a big way?

 

[user 683]

Hi Metropolitan

Thanks for providing such a detailed and informative trip report! I planned my weekend trip to Chicago in the same way as yourself. I needed a weekend get a way and the Hot Deals enticed me to brave the wintery conditions in Chicago. I monitored the CL status on Thursday night (15 FEB) and decided to cancel my trip Friday morning given the persistent problems that seemed to exist in Indiana. I could only imagine what it must have been like and your report confirmed my suspicions. I'd like to think I would have been as understanding as you seemed to be given all of the problems on the Cardinal. I think I would have a similar opinion about future trips on the Cardinal. Well at least during the winter months. I hope your upcoming trips run more smoothly.

Cheers!

Deimos