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greatcats

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Feb 27, 2006
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Flagstaff, Arizona
This is a continuation of my round the country symphony hopping trip. See my " Arizona to DC " travelogue of a week or two ago. Last Thursday I took the 9am Acela ( Business Class ) to Boston, which was the first time I ever redeemed AGR points. 8000 miles used for a $157 ticket - I thought that was a good deal. These trains to not have the sociability of a long distance train, being populated mostly by business people. The equipment seemed to be in pretty good working order, although some doorways remained open between cars, but this was not a problem. I made a couple of expensive purchases from the snack bar, and otherwise observed the Northeast Corridor zip by at mostly high speed. I completely missed Trenton and Princeton Junction. Running is slow through such places as Baltimore and New London, due to tunnels and a curvy roadbed. Business was lighter north of New York. The train arrived in Boston South Station a few minutes early, just a shade over six and a half hours from DC. I think the highlight is crossing Hell Gate Bridge with a great view of the New York skyline and waterways.

I spent four days in Boston, where I have not visited in fourteen years. I was a little skeptical of the upcoming Lakeshore trip to Chicago, as it seems the train has had something of a spotty reputation. I am pleased to say that the 23 hour trip was more than satisfactory and that not much could be faulted. As I have read in this forum, the Club Acela at Boston South Station is a nice place, indeed - a modern lounge set amidst the beautiful architecture of the station, not some windowless afterthought shoved underground. I was directed to go out to Track 10 where the five car train was ready - baggage car, Viewliner sleeper ( " Summer View " ) two coaches and the diner/lounge. Bill was my affable attendant out of Chicago and we had a number of animated chats. While Viewliners to my observation do not get awards for great quality of workmanship, this car was in pretty good running order. We seemed to have some slow orders as far as Framingham, but most of the day we kept up a pretty good running speed. I have never ridden this line east-west and the ride over the wintry Berkshires along snow and ice covered rivers was a delight. I had a cranberry-walnut salad for lunch and iced tea, which was fine, and declined dessert. I hung out in my sleeper, switching sides to enjoy the scenery, but not taking any pictures - the windows could have been cleaner. ( These windows appear to be plastic. ) We stopped for awhile and my guess was that we must be waiting for the eastbound Amtrak, which Julie told me was running about an hour late out of Albany to Pittsfield. This was the case and then we arrived Albany on time for a 90 minute layover. When one plans a trip likes this and sees the leisurely schedules, it would seem the slow pace would be annoying. Not really, I got off the train and went upstairs to inspect the fairly new large and impressive Albany station. It had started to rain, so I returned to my car and did not watch the trains being combined. Then Bill informed me that the dining car was ready for dinner and I was seated with an elderly lady who turned out to be quite fun and we discussed symphonies and cultural events. She was en route to her brother's in Marshall, Texas for an extended visit. The New York based dining car crew was pleasant and efficient. " Welcome to the Dining Car. " So much for clichés about bad service and attitudes from New York crews. I ordered the trout, a half bottle of white wine, and even had the cheesecake. I have stated before that this is not high class cuisine, and it still is not, but it serves the purpose of providing decent food service.

I asked my server why the train carries an empty lounge car from New York. He said the crews wonder the same thing - seems to be a bit of a mystery, although he said one of the supervisors is trying to create a job out of it. It may be meant to serve a purpose that if this long train is crowded, which it was not this night, to serve as a place for passengers to congregate or chat on cell phones late at night. My other fault of the train was I had occasion to use one of the coach rest rooms during breakfast, as my sleeper was 8 ( yes. eight!! ) cars from the diner. A mess, and the car was not very crowded. So much for the faults.

The French Toast breakfast with Turkey sausage was good, and the gentleman at my table, making a last minute, first time train trip to Tucson, provided good conversation. Since I am a tour guide, my travel information is freely dispensed. Fears of being hours late did not materialize. We had to wait for a couple of freights, but we rolled across the Indiana farmland and then through the grungy industrial areas of Gary on time and arrived Chicago just prior to the scheduled arrival of 9:45. ( That Hammond-Whiting station seems to have been a poor idea - I remember these trains from the east used to stop there, now only a few Michigan trains do - it looks deserted. )

My attendant Bill gave me a snapshot of the Lakeshore running alongside the Erie Canal as a parting gift. So, you folks out there who might balk at taking the train between the East and Chicago, because you think it will be boring with bad service, think again. While some things could be improved, overall my trip from Boston to Chicago was a pleasure. Tomorrow I will be on the California Zephyr to Salt Lake City, then continuing two days later to California. Haven't ridden that route since 1990.
 
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The second Lounge is being carried in the NYC section so that section can be turned to Silver Service, allowing the cars a few days of warm weather running. At least that is what I have been told.
 
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