p&sr
OBS Chief
Day 7 Continental Breakfast at the Hotel, shuttle van to Miami International Airport. I just missed the shuttle to the Tri-Rail Station, but a City Bus took me within a block or so. Taking the first Tri-Rail Train north, I arrived at the Amtrak Station (within a long block, anyway) in good time for the first Northbound train, the Silver Meteor. (That train does not go to Tampa, as did my Silver Star southbound the previous day. The routes also differ through the Carolinas.) After a long day through Central Florida, including an unscheduled stop for maintenance at Sanford (near the Auto Train terminal), we finally got to interesting country along the St Johns River into Jacksonville, where we arrived just before dark. For anybody in that area, I would recommend the run from Orlando (or thereabouts) to Jacksonville (or the other way) as an excellent day-trip.
Originally, I planned to travel through Richmond VA to Newport News, representing the Southern extension of the NorthEast Corridor, and possibly connecting to Virginia Beach by bus. The bus terminal is right on the beach, which would give a unique chance to see the Atlantic Ocean proper, not just bays or inlets. Spending most of the night in the Station at Washington DC, a very early train from there could make my connection to Montreal at New York City. But while crossing Florida, I began to long for the scenery of New England once again, and conceived a change of plans.
I tried calling Amtrak on a borrowed cellphone, but the wait was too long and the owner was afraid I would drain the battery. On my first trip they gave me a toll-free direct number for the North America Pass desk, but this time I didn't get that number until later in the trip. Anyway, there was enough time in Jacksonville that I could call Amtrak inside the Station and eventually reach the proper desk. They gladly re-arranged my itinerary, and there was still time at the Ticket Counter to get my new tickets printed. I returned to the train... with seconds to spare, as it turns out, and continued the Northward journey through Georgia and the Carolinas by night. One poor lady on board had a serious case of Train Phobia. Every time we saw water, she was convinced the train was going to fall off the tracks and land in it. The only reason she was on board was because her Flight Phobia was worse. And I think even she could see that a train is a more comfortable place to feel phobic than an airplane is.
Day 8 was a very scenic morning, including the James River, the Yards at Richmond, the small towns of rural Virginia, and lots of wetlands near Quantico and beyond. At Alexandria we saw the "other" Washington Monument, then crossing the Potomac we saw the better-known one as we passed right behind the Jefferson Monument on the Tidal Basin. We entered the Tunnel and emerged in Union Station. Naturally I hoped to catch the earliest possible train to Boston, but the schedule had been touch-and-go all morning, trying to estimate our arrival. As it happened, the train I wanted was just ready to pull out. By being first out the door, running upstairs and through an unmarked connecting corridor I remembered from last trip, and ignoring the "exit only" signs, I got there on time... with seconds to spare. Others who had hoped to follow me didn't make it, because I was out of their sight by the time they'd located their luggage.
And so began my first trip North along the NEC by daylight, on a Regional Train as planned. I thoroughly enjoyed this run, especially the many outstanding views of Chesapeake Bay en route to Wilmington Delaware. As always, the coastline of Connecticut was also attractive. We arrived in Boston in the afternoon, leaving sufficient daylight for my third run on the "Mattapan High Speed Line" (Scenic and historic streetcar)... once in August, once in December, and now once in May. Each so different in a land where seasons visibly matter!
I spent the evening in South Station, enjoying a Chinese dinner from the Food Court there, and reading a book from the News-stand. Around 10:00 PM I caught the last Southbound train, dozing and watching the scenery till our arrival in New York City (about 3:00 AM), then sleeping soundly until Philadelphia (about 5:00 AM). Now on Day 9, I walked around the Station there and saw daybreak over the city, eventually getting a good breakfast in the Station. Travelling back to New York (Penn Station), I arrived in good time for my Montreal connection.
The Adirondack Train (NYP to Montreal) is truly spectacular... travelling up the Hudson in the morning to Albany, and then following the full length of Lake Champlain right along the lake-shore. Vermont was only a stone's throw away. On arrival in Montreal, I picked up all my tickets for VIA Rail, along with a copy of their system timetable. My hotel was near the University of Quebec, a couple of miles walk through the interesting downtown district.
Next morning, Day 10, I had a good Canadian breakfast... pancakes and blueberries and maple syrup and sausages. Then walked past U of Quebec and colorful neighborhoods near there, then Chinatown and the famous Basilica, then right past the Train Station up the hill to McGill University, then climbed to the hilltop in Mount Royal Park for outstanding views of the entire area, then back down. I rode the subway across the river and had a great Lebanese lunch at the bus depot there. Then rode the subway all the way around the town, back to my hotel, picking up my bags there, and back to the Station. From there, I explored the extensive "underground city", connecting stores and offices and shopping malls underground with the main RailRoad station and two separate subway lines. Fond memories of raspberry sherbet from a little stand in one of the underground corridors. Late afternoon I caught the Eastbound train for Halifax, and slept on board.
Day 11 began along the North Coast of New Brunswick, with outstanding scenery. Approaching the Bay of Fundy we saw many tidal channels, at low tide with slick banks of red clay exposed. Into Nova Scotia very colorful forests and lakes in a setting of granite rocks, a few little towns (rather like New England), and finally the harbour and city of Halifax. I arrived late afternoon, and walked through some historic neighborhoods up to the Citadel, a historic Fortress overlooking the harbour. I was just in time to hear the Piper play last salutes as the British Flag was being lowered for the day. The guards allowed me in for a quick run-around just before closing... past the cannons and up onto the wall and around to the other side. Continuing into town, one house had a table with some nice porcelain plates on it. The sign said take what you like, but please leave the table. So I got a pretty little souvenir to bring back. In due course I arrived at my Bed & Breakfast place, very comfortable, and had dinner (Seafood Chowder) in a neighborhood restaurant nearby.
On Day 12, I walked past the Naval Base and a great highway bridge across the harbour, and down to the waterfront. There was an interesting museum there, and a historic Naval Oceanography Vessel that we could enter and explore. While there I met an interesting fellow from St Pierre & Miquelon, the little French-owned Islands just offshore from Newfoundland, in town visiting his daughter. Since he didn't speak English, and the Museum staff didn't speak French, I enjoyed playing interpreter and letting each hear the other's stories. The Waterfront area also had some colorful stores and restaurants, and tours of the harbour by boat could be arranged. I settled for the easiest one... a ferry-boat ride to the other side and back. Then continuing on foot past downtown, to a National Historic Park marking the landing of millions of Canadian Immigrants. And finally to the RailRoad Station with its historic attached Hotel. Early afternoon we departed Westbound, through the same wonderful Nova Scotia countryside.
Day 13 began about 5:00 AM with our arrival in Cherny. I got off the train there, and took a connecting van across the River to Quebec City. There I took an early walking tour while the City awakened, visiting the historic Fortifications and back streets in the Old City, then a wonderful Sunday Brunch in the famous Chateau Frontenac, a castle-like hotel perched atop the cliffs overlooking the River. Then I took a Funicular (practically like an Elevator) down to the Lower Town by the Waterfront. On around to the newer Downtown on the other side of the Old City, and finally back to the Station to await my 1:00 PM departure. The train gave a smooth ride back to Montreal, and an easy transfer to the Corridor Train to Toronto. My hotel there was just a quick subway ride away.
Day 14 began with the morning departure of the Canadian, a triple-overnight straight run to the West Coast, with classic dome observation cars. We backed out of the station for many miles before turning around at a Wye out in the Suburbs. Then North into the Wilderness, around the Great Lakes and North of Lake Nipigon. It got dark somewhere after Sudbury, and I did my best to sleep in the Coach accommodations, with mixed success.
Day 15 began around Sioux Lookout, very remote country with lakes and forests and few signs of civilization. In the towns, signs were posted in the Ojibwa language as well as in English. We stopped mid-day in Winnipeg where there was time to enjoy a marketplace called The Forks, and walk down to the Red River which flows North through town to Hudson's Bay. I was careful not to miss the train, because they only run three times per week. Then we cut North-west across the Province of Manitoba.
The dining car served good dinners, and outstanding Canadian breakfasts, of the Sausage-and-Eggs variety. For lunch, I used the snack bar (hot dog and Pepsi, or the nearest equivalent). At breakfast I would order and speak in English, and for dinner I would order and speak in French. This really got the staff confused. Their own French was fluent, but not quite fluent enough to tell that mine was not. On the last evening they caught me speaking German and Dutch with young couples visiting from both of those countries, which threw them completely for a loop! It was fun to share travel advice concerning the West Coast... British Columbia and California, where they were all heading next.
On Day 16 we passed through Edmonton and finally came to hills, crossed some deep valleys on high bridges, and then came to mountainous country. At last we got a view of the Rockies, as we approached Jasper National Park. It already felt like being home again. We saw some Moose down by the river. There was time for a little walk in town, and through the Station in Jasper, then on to British Columbia over Yellow Head Pass. Across a glacial lake by afternoon sunlight, we got a clear and perfect view of Mt. Robson, the highest point in the Canadian Rockies, and the first time I'd ever actually seen it. Continuing into the evening we passed range after range of mountains, and a spectacular waterfall right next to the tracks.
Day 17 we arrived in the City of Vancouver. I rode the Ferry Boat across the harbour, then walked by the marinas and beautiful Stanley Park, enjoying a historic exhibit of Totem Poles there, and continuing around the point under the Lion's Gate Bridge. Back downtown, there was a bit of "underground city" connecting a couple of buildings, with shopping malls in the basement, to the terminal for the SkyTrain. I then took the Subway back to the RailRoad Station to board the evening Cascade Train to Seattle.
At customs, their X-Ray suggested I was carrying some alcohol. I explained that one bottle was NOT being imported from Canada because I was importing it from Mexico. It still had the bag reading "Souvenir of Tijuana". The other was a dummy, an empty bottle of "Propeller Ale" from Halifax that I also wanted to keep. After warning me solemnly not to get drunk on board the train, they allowed me to proceed.
The evening trip along Puget Sound was just lovely. We saw dozens of Bald Eagles on the beaches and mudflats there. Night-time arrival in Seattle with clear weather and sparkling lights, and a taxi to the Pioneer Square Hotel, where I spent a relaxing night (at last).
Final journey home began on Day 18, morning departure on the Coast Starlight. I arrived on foot, following the tracks of the (out of service) waterfront streetcar. There were fine views of Puget Sound, particularly just beyond Tacoma, and great views of the Cascades in both Washington State and Oregon... Mt Rainier, Mt St Helens, and Mt Hood in particular. We crossed the Columbia River and had time for a quick (60 second) walk-through of the Station in Portland, then South to Eugene and over the Cascades into the night.
Travelling South, I was seated next to a lady who wanted both seats for herself, and kept pushing me into the window. Eventually another seat opened up, so I moved. During the night at Klamath Falls the seat next to me was taken by a cowboy fellow who wanted to talk and boast all night. Then just past Mt. Shasta we encountered a series of powerful Thunderstorms. It turns out the Cowboy was scared of Lightening, so the boasting turned to swearing as he spent the rest of the night declaring his state of near-panic.
On Day 19, we approached Sacramento mid-morning. I figured I'd seen enough of that particular train, and took an unscheduled exit. I walked past the RailRoad Museum in Old Town, saw some historic engines through the picture windows, and got to the River just in time to see our train crossing the drawbridge. Then a little old steam engine chugged past me on its way to the re-constructed Central Pacific Depot. I quickly bought a ticket, and was on board as soon as they hooked the engine onto the train. A fine tourist run, about three miles down the river, then the engine unhooked and drove past us and re-connected to pull us back into the depot. I mentioned to the Conductor that I had just stepped off the train from Halifax NS, and that this was probably the best train of the trip!
After walking through Old Town, listening to some talented street-musicians, and buying a few snacks and souvenirs, I was ready to call it a day. I caught the next Capital Corridor Train to Martinez, and they were good enough to honour my existing ticket (Seattle to Martinez for that day). There I caught the Bus to my home in the North Bay, successfully concluding my Trip to the Four Corners of the American Rail System.
San Diego -- Miami -- Boston and Halifax -- Vancouver BC and Seattle
19 days, 18 overnights... 1 on the bus, 12 on the train, and 5 in hotels: Miami, Montreal, Halifax, Toronto, and Seattle.
Total mileage this trip 13049 miles, including 8251 miles on Amtrak and 4798 miles on VIA.
Added to mileage reported for 2004 makes 32556 miles on North American Rail, including 26587 miles on Amtrak.
Not everybody would consider such a trip to be a "relaxing vacation". But of course these things are all a matter of taste! Great fun, in any case. Now back to planning for future adventures...
Originally, I planned to travel through Richmond VA to Newport News, representing the Southern extension of the NorthEast Corridor, and possibly connecting to Virginia Beach by bus. The bus terminal is right on the beach, which would give a unique chance to see the Atlantic Ocean proper, not just bays or inlets. Spending most of the night in the Station at Washington DC, a very early train from there could make my connection to Montreal at New York City. But while crossing Florida, I began to long for the scenery of New England once again, and conceived a change of plans.
I tried calling Amtrak on a borrowed cellphone, but the wait was too long and the owner was afraid I would drain the battery. On my first trip they gave me a toll-free direct number for the North America Pass desk, but this time I didn't get that number until later in the trip. Anyway, there was enough time in Jacksonville that I could call Amtrak inside the Station and eventually reach the proper desk. They gladly re-arranged my itinerary, and there was still time at the Ticket Counter to get my new tickets printed. I returned to the train... with seconds to spare, as it turns out, and continued the Northward journey through Georgia and the Carolinas by night. One poor lady on board had a serious case of Train Phobia. Every time we saw water, she was convinced the train was going to fall off the tracks and land in it. The only reason she was on board was because her Flight Phobia was worse. And I think even she could see that a train is a more comfortable place to feel phobic than an airplane is.
Day 8 was a very scenic morning, including the James River, the Yards at Richmond, the small towns of rural Virginia, and lots of wetlands near Quantico and beyond. At Alexandria we saw the "other" Washington Monument, then crossing the Potomac we saw the better-known one as we passed right behind the Jefferson Monument on the Tidal Basin. We entered the Tunnel and emerged in Union Station. Naturally I hoped to catch the earliest possible train to Boston, but the schedule had been touch-and-go all morning, trying to estimate our arrival. As it happened, the train I wanted was just ready to pull out. By being first out the door, running upstairs and through an unmarked connecting corridor I remembered from last trip, and ignoring the "exit only" signs, I got there on time... with seconds to spare. Others who had hoped to follow me didn't make it, because I was out of their sight by the time they'd located their luggage.
And so began my first trip North along the NEC by daylight, on a Regional Train as planned. I thoroughly enjoyed this run, especially the many outstanding views of Chesapeake Bay en route to Wilmington Delaware. As always, the coastline of Connecticut was also attractive. We arrived in Boston in the afternoon, leaving sufficient daylight for my third run on the "Mattapan High Speed Line" (Scenic and historic streetcar)... once in August, once in December, and now once in May. Each so different in a land where seasons visibly matter!
I spent the evening in South Station, enjoying a Chinese dinner from the Food Court there, and reading a book from the News-stand. Around 10:00 PM I caught the last Southbound train, dozing and watching the scenery till our arrival in New York City (about 3:00 AM), then sleeping soundly until Philadelphia (about 5:00 AM). Now on Day 9, I walked around the Station there and saw daybreak over the city, eventually getting a good breakfast in the Station. Travelling back to New York (Penn Station), I arrived in good time for my Montreal connection.
The Adirondack Train (NYP to Montreal) is truly spectacular... travelling up the Hudson in the morning to Albany, and then following the full length of Lake Champlain right along the lake-shore. Vermont was only a stone's throw away. On arrival in Montreal, I picked up all my tickets for VIA Rail, along with a copy of their system timetable. My hotel was near the University of Quebec, a couple of miles walk through the interesting downtown district.
Next morning, Day 10, I had a good Canadian breakfast... pancakes and blueberries and maple syrup and sausages. Then walked past U of Quebec and colorful neighborhoods near there, then Chinatown and the famous Basilica, then right past the Train Station up the hill to McGill University, then climbed to the hilltop in Mount Royal Park for outstanding views of the entire area, then back down. I rode the subway across the river and had a great Lebanese lunch at the bus depot there. Then rode the subway all the way around the town, back to my hotel, picking up my bags there, and back to the Station. From there, I explored the extensive "underground city", connecting stores and offices and shopping malls underground with the main RailRoad station and two separate subway lines. Fond memories of raspberry sherbet from a little stand in one of the underground corridors. Late afternoon I caught the Eastbound train for Halifax, and slept on board.
Day 11 began along the North Coast of New Brunswick, with outstanding scenery. Approaching the Bay of Fundy we saw many tidal channels, at low tide with slick banks of red clay exposed. Into Nova Scotia very colorful forests and lakes in a setting of granite rocks, a few little towns (rather like New England), and finally the harbour and city of Halifax. I arrived late afternoon, and walked through some historic neighborhoods up to the Citadel, a historic Fortress overlooking the harbour. I was just in time to hear the Piper play last salutes as the British Flag was being lowered for the day. The guards allowed me in for a quick run-around just before closing... past the cannons and up onto the wall and around to the other side. Continuing into town, one house had a table with some nice porcelain plates on it. The sign said take what you like, but please leave the table. So I got a pretty little souvenir to bring back. In due course I arrived at my Bed & Breakfast place, very comfortable, and had dinner (Seafood Chowder) in a neighborhood restaurant nearby.
On Day 12, I walked past the Naval Base and a great highway bridge across the harbour, and down to the waterfront. There was an interesting museum there, and a historic Naval Oceanography Vessel that we could enter and explore. While there I met an interesting fellow from St Pierre & Miquelon, the little French-owned Islands just offshore from Newfoundland, in town visiting his daughter. Since he didn't speak English, and the Museum staff didn't speak French, I enjoyed playing interpreter and letting each hear the other's stories. The Waterfront area also had some colorful stores and restaurants, and tours of the harbour by boat could be arranged. I settled for the easiest one... a ferry-boat ride to the other side and back. Then continuing on foot past downtown, to a National Historic Park marking the landing of millions of Canadian Immigrants. And finally to the RailRoad Station with its historic attached Hotel. Early afternoon we departed Westbound, through the same wonderful Nova Scotia countryside.
Day 13 began about 5:00 AM with our arrival in Cherny. I got off the train there, and took a connecting van across the River to Quebec City. There I took an early walking tour while the City awakened, visiting the historic Fortifications and back streets in the Old City, then a wonderful Sunday Brunch in the famous Chateau Frontenac, a castle-like hotel perched atop the cliffs overlooking the River. Then I took a Funicular (practically like an Elevator) down to the Lower Town by the Waterfront. On around to the newer Downtown on the other side of the Old City, and finally back to the Station to await my 1:00 PM departure. The train gave a smooth ride back to Montreal, and an easy transfer to the Corridor Train to Toronto. My hotel there was just a quick subway ride away.
Day 14 began with the morning departure of the Canadian, a triple-overnight straight run to the West Coast, with classic dome observation cars. We backed out of the station for many miles before turning around at a Wye out in the Suburbs. Then North into the Wilderness, around the Great Lakes and North of Lake Nipigon. It got dark somewhere after Sudbury, and I did my best to sleep in the Coach accommodations, with mixed success.
Day 15 began around Sioux Lookout, very remote country with lakes and forests and few signs of civilization. In the towns, signs were posted in the Ojibwa language as well as in English. We stopped mid-day in Winnipeg where there was time to enjoy a marketplace called The Forks, and walk down to the Red River which flows North through town to Hudson's Bay. I was careful not to miss the train, because they only run three times per week. Then we cut North-west across the Province of Manitoba.
The dining car served good dinners, and outstanding Canadian breakfasts, of the Sausage-and-Eggs variety. For lunch, I used the snack bar (hot dog and Pepsi, or the nearest equivalent). At breakfast I would order and speak in English, and for dinner I would order and speak in French. This really got the staff confused. Their own French was fluent, but not quite fluent enough to tell that mine was not. On the last evening they caught me speaking German and Dutch with young couples visiting from both of those countries, which threw them completely for a loop! It was fun to share travel advice concerning the West Coast... British Columbia and California, where they were all heading next.
On Day 16 we passed through Edmonton and finally came to hills, crossed some deep valleys on high bridges, and then came to mountainous country. At last we got a view of the Rockies, as we approached Jasper National Park. It already felt like being home again. We saw some Moose down by the river. There was time for a little walk in town, and through the Station in Jasper, then on to British Columbia over Yellow Head Pass. Across a glacial lake by afternoon sunlight, we got a clear and perfect view of Mt. Robson, the highest point in the Canadian Rockies, and the first time I'd ever actually seen it. Continuing into the evening we passed range after range of mountains, and a spectacular waterfall right next to the tracks.
Day 17 we arrived in the City of Vancouver. I rode the Ferry Boat across the harbour, then walked by the marinas and beautiful Stanley Park, enjoying a historic exhibit of Totem Poles there, and continuing around the point under the Lion's Gate Bridge. Back downtown, there was a bit of "underground city" connecting a couple of buildings, with shopping malls in the basement, to the terminal for the SkyTrain. I then took the Subway back to the RailRoad Station to board the evening Cascade Train to Seattle.
At customs, their X-Ray suggested I was carrying some alcohol. I explained that one bottle was NOT being imported from Canada because I was importing it from Mexico. It still had the bag reading "Souvenir of Tijuana". The other was a dummy, an empty bottle of "Propeller Ale" from Halifax that I also wanted to keep. After warning me solemnly not to get drunk on board the train, they allowed me to proceed.
The evening trip along Puget Sound was just lovely. We saw dozens of Bald Eagles on the beaches and mudflats there. Night-time arrival in Seattle with clear weather and sparkling lights, and a taxi to the Pioneer Square Hotel, where I spent a relaxing night (at last).
Final journey home began on Day 18, morning departure on the Coast Starlight. I arrived on foot, following the tracks of the (out of service) waterfront streetcar. There were fine views of Puget Sound, particularly just beyond Tacoma, and great views of the Cascades in both Washington State and Oregon... Mt Rainier, Mt St Helens, and Mt Hood in particular. We crossed the Columbia River and had time for a quick (60 second) walk-through of the Station in Portland, then South to Eugene and over the Cascades into the night.
Travelling South, I was seated next to a lady who wanted both seats for herself, and kept pushing me into the window. Eventually another seat opened up, so I moved. During the night at Klamath Falls the seat next to me was taken by a cowboy fellow who wanted to talk and boast all night. Then just past Mt. Shasta we encountered a series of powerful Thunderstorms. It turns out the Cowboy was scared of Lightening, so the boasting turned to swearing as he spent the rest of the night declaring his state of near-panic.
On Day 19, we approached Sacramento mid-morning. I figured I'd seen enough of that particular train, and took an unscheduled exit. I walked past the RailRoad Museum in Old Town, saw some historic engines through the picture windows, and got to the River just in time to see our train crossing the drawbridge. Then a little old steam engine chugged past me on its way to the re-constructed Central Pacific Depot. I quickly bought a ticket, and was on board as soon as they hooked the engine onto the train. A fine tourist run, about three miles down the river, then the engine unhooked and drove past us and re-connected to pull us back into the depot. I mentioned to the Conductor that I had just stepped off the train from Halifax NS, and that this was probably the best train of the trip!
After walking through Old Town, listening to some talented street-musicians, and buying a few snacks and souvenirs, I was ready to call it a day. I caught the next Capital Corridor Train to Martinez, and they were good enough to honour my existing ticket (Seattle to Martinez for that day). There I caught the Bus to my home in the North Bay, successfully concluding my Trip to the Four Corners of the American Rail System.
San Diego -- Miami -- Boston and Halifax -- Vancouver BC and Seattle
19 days, 18 overnights... 1 on the bus, 12 on the train, and 5 in hotels: Miami, Montreal, Halifax, Toronto, and Seattle.
Total mileage this trip 13049 miles, including 8251 miles on Amtrak and 4798 miles on VIA.
Added to mileage reported for 2004 makes 32556 miles on North American Rail, including 26587 miles on Amtrak.
Not everybody would consider such a trip to be a "relaxing vacation". But of course these things are all a matter of taste! Great fun, in any case. Now back to planning for future adventures...
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