The Accidental Round the World Trip

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Sounds like a scene out of Doctor Zhivago!

Really enjoying reading about y'alls adventure from my armchair but would rather be reading it on a train heading somewhere!
In places it was exactly like a scene from Dr Zhivago and the train passes through the town it was based on, Perm (although it was called Yuryatin)
 
Very enjoyable read, and excellent photos too. I like the night shots and the interesting perspectives, you have a great eye! I guess you have a pretty decent camera?

Looking forward to the next instalment,

Ed.
 
Day 10 - Wednesday 8 March Siberia ~ Train Day 4

Not too much to report as we eat, sleep, read, talk and look out of the windows, a normal train day.

The colonel shook my hand as he walked past and our car attendant is even more charming, she's added unpaid childrens nanny to her range of skills and everything is done with a smile.

Rosie added the art of managing to buy platform food from a babushka today at Ilanskaya, these older women work so hard with very limited resources, standing out in some very low temperatures hoping train passengers will buy their home made food. She bought 2 pancakes and 2 Blini pancakes, all for 100 roubles. She came back with her trophies and said she didn't know what she had bought but they looked good. Two were interesting but ok, the other two were 'yummy' is Rosie's language, the girl done well.

Artur our 16 year old compartment addition is less shy today, phone translators are whizzing along at a furious rate but phone signals are very infrequent or not at all (we are in fairly remote central Siberia now) so it's a little like a comedy routine with key words missing. Either he or his father is a mechanic, agricultural engineering came into it too.
He does like cars and makes such as Dodge (trucks?) are his favourite, maybe... plus the more specialised Viper and Mustangs including Roush built cars. Ferrari and Aston Martin didn't figure so well in his thinking but maybe they are too delicate for Siberia?
His is either off to visit his girlfriend or go to college, that was one of the internet breaks. But he's a good kid and trying to join in I think for our sakes.


The train runs just a few minutes either side of the timetable times, but they do get priority (at least the Rossiya No's 1 & 2 do) over freight. They handle all the technical side affected by ultra low temeratures fairly easily too, 2nd day out the car attendants are out working using long handled narrow ice shovels to chip ice from the suspension springs.

There has been a big snowfall here at some time, the small houses sit with what looks like big dollops of custard on their roofs, picture postcard stuff.
The snow is pristine with hardly an animal track to be seen, only the occasional tire or snowmobile track to be seen. Becoming prettier, colder and slightly more hilly.


Almost all compartments have their doors closed for most of the day and evening, this is a very reserved group of people who prefer their own company. We also don't think it would make much difference if we spoke Russian as there is hardly any chat between compartments. It is something we miss as that is the glory of long distance train travel, you get to know your neighbours a little, oh how we miss Amtrak.

Ruth who is a very active person is taking every opportunity to walk here or there when she can, or get off to photo things at every stop, it is our 4th day on the train and we all look forward to stops just to remind ourselves there is an outside.

At the river Yenisey we are at the middle of Siberia, it is the traditional border. The city of Krasnoyarsk is nearby, it is the 3rd largest city in Siberia.

We are now in the old Gulag territory, forced labour camps in this remote and very cold region. They still mine coal and other minerals and it looks as though the railway plays it's full part in moving goods. The track in places is a little less smooth here, it's a wonder it's not worse when the whole region is so cold for so long each year
 
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01:12am 16 March 2017 - Kaohsiung, Taiwan tonight, warm overcast day and evening 20 - 25 oC

Remainder of photos for Kyiv are now posted into Day 3​. Had a great evening this evening at a special restaurant and a really buzzing night market. Tomorrow afternoon travel by High Speed Japan built rail to Taipei, built along the lines of the bullet train so we're told.
 
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Amazing trip report. I can't wait to hear more. I had a similar dilemma to yours in Bruxelles only I was starting my trip there. Except our ICE ended up in the end completely cancelled.
Seaboard, how did that story end re the cancelled train? we got away lightly compared to you then
We started at Centraal where we were to go to Midi to catch the train. We hustled on to the right platform. Then they decided to cancel the train for just midi station so we hurried onto a train for Nord. Arrived at nord and went to the right track when they cancelled the train completely. So talking to a station attendant my grandmother who has trouble walking convinced him to let us use the elevator which you need his key for. We walked a short distance under the tracks in this employees only area that looked like it hadn't seen repairs since the 50s and back up where they put us on an over crowded IC to Vieviers where I ended up sitting on the floor by the door. When we got off that DB had buses for some people but they were directing people to an RDC looking train to Aachen before the buses so we got on that. Had an interesting discussion with a Palestinian professor. Then we were put on an IC replacement at Aachen which had to wait for busses to come so we sat in Aachen for two hours. On a train that was 15 cars long with only three cars worth of passengers eventually. Made it home six hours late.
 
Amazing trip report. I can't wait to hear more. I had a similar dilemma to yours in Bruxelles only I was starting my trip there. Except our ICE ended up in the end completely cancelled.
Seaboard, how did that story end re the cancelled train? we got away lightly compared to you then
We started at Centraal where we were to go to Midi to catch the train. We hustled on to the right platform. Then they decided to cancel the train for just midi station so we hurried onto a train for Nord. Arrived at nord and went to the right track when they cancelled the train completely. So talking to a station attendant my grandmother who has trouble walking convinced him to let us use the elevator which you need his key for. We walked a short distance under the tracks in this employees only area that looked like it hadn't seen repairs since the 50s and back up where they put us on an over crowded IC to Vieviers where I ended up sitting on the floor by the door. When we got off that DB had buses for some people but they were directing people to an RDC looking train to Aachen before the buses so we got on that. Had an interesting discussion with a Palestinian professor. Then we were put on an IC replacement at Aachen which had to wait for busses to come so we sat in Aachen for two hours. On a train that was 15 cars long with only three cars worth of passengers eventually. Made it home six hours late.
Appears to be a common thread running through the operations of Bruxelles Midi station
 
Day 11 - Thursday 9 March across Siberia ~ Train Day 5

​Early hours of the morning, a strange night. Each of the 4 of us in the compartment couldn't sleep and no idea why. Rosie sitting up reading, Ruth and Artur each on their phones, me writing more of the report.

Morning, fresh snow and train climbing into hills and then low mountains, quite a lot of track curves one after the other. Roads not cleared but smoke coming from a few chimneys so people around. We are close to Lake Baikal, the worlds deepest and largest by volume fresh water lake in the world. It's hard to imagine a lake over a mile deep, and more difficult now as it is frozen, usually to 3m (c. 10 feet) deep for much of the winter.

First sighting of Lake Baikal

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More Baikal

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We are approaching Ulan-Ude, a major rail junction and city. An odd thing happened in our car, many of the closed compartment doors are now open with people standing chatting in the corridor, the atmosphere feels lighter with people smiling and acting as though they have known each other for years. It has happened only today and we wonder if it's because many are leaving the train, the reserve is no longer required? And that's exactly what did happen. There was a big turnover of passengers and again to our surprise more got on than off, the same happened all the way from here to Vladivostok.

Views looking from the lake south

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Further expanse of Lake Baikal

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Arriving Ulan-Ude to follow...
 
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Views looking from the lake south

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Wow, a ski hill out there in the middle of Siberia! I wonder who the patrons are? The middle class of Ulan-Ude?
 
Day 11 - Thursday 9 March across Siberia ~ Train Day 5 ...... continued

Ulan-Ude really feels like a major halt for the Trans Siberian, no longer than a few other cities but just has a feel about it. This is helped by the amount of people leaving the train, newcomers boarding and the amount just milling around.

I saw a photo opportunity here but couldn't get a view along the platform, lucky there was a convenient gantry near to the car door. Climbed this a little and have the photo below. A shouted rebuke from our Prov which eventually turned into a small smile but more seriously the Colonel walked over and admonished me sternly in German, I punched him playfully in the arm but he only scowled.

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Here are platform photos of Ulan-Ude, the most curious surely is the shapely young lady who decided to exercise for 15 minutes on the platform with her special Hula Hoop. Most of the men were fascinated and for some reason there was always a railway official standing close to her at all times, no idea why. By the way, she came from the forbidden rear carriage.

My purpose was to get to the rear end of the train to photo the green train with the red star at the front, but had to walk to the end of the platform and beyond it. There was some commotion over the station loudspeaker but don't think it was for me?

Last photo is the travel worn author standing beside our car, it has the entire route map of the Trans Siberian Express across the carriage side.

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Helena our Prov with her helper, they were inseparable for 3 or 4 days. The helper had the important job of carrying the conductor's flags

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We're all called back to the train, much movement inside our car as people stow luggage and find their spot. We find Ruth sitting alone in the car, Artur has gone. He had said goodbye to Ruth but none of us had expected he was leaving, such is train life here in Russia. So we three have more space again, but wonder if there will be any further new room mates with just under 2 days to go?

Out of the window the snow has almost gone yet just a week before it had been the coldest area on the entire Trans Sib route, suppose this is extreme continental climate in action.

Made an arrangement with Helena to use an empty compartment this evening so I could write and read into the night after the car settles down. Rosie and Ruth are early risers and I am not, it's not fair on them if I keep my bunk light on. So Helena has helped by letting me use an empty compartment she has prepared for upcoming passengers, she has been so good to all of us in the car.

Our next major stop is Chita, we hear there's a large military base there where the Colonel and Majors will leave us at around 01:00 tomorrow morning. It has been good having them on the train as there was always a smile even though they mainly kept themselves to themselves. Rosie and I had brought a 3 Litre wine box from France, it is a strong Syrah from the Rhone valley, a nice Chateauneuf du Pape. We decided to give this to these officers as they obviously enjoyed being sociable within their obvious constraints, so late afternoon it was presented to them. They asked if we would drink it with them but declined, told them it was a British tradition not to drink any wine given as a gift. An hour or so later Rosie pops along to offer a little dark chocolate to go with the wine, but they roar with laughter shaking the empty wine box.

That evening get off at Khilok for a few minutes, there is nothing to see and the air is very very cold. Laugh some more with the Military and wish them well, they leave the train in a few hours at Chita. Before we re-enter the train I try to ask for the Russian word for the number one, fast as you like they say "Putin" at which we all roar with laughter.

Rosie and Ruth decide to sleep, I move notebook, book and reading glasses down to the next compartment but one, we are all happy. The book is Philip Roth's ' The Plot Against America '. Never read anything by Mr Roth before but am enamoured by his writing style, and completely taken aback as to how some aspects described in the early sections of this book - written about 15 years previously - appear to be a handbook for the Trump campaign, huge co-incidence. After reading further it comes across as a love story between a close knit family with all the highs and lows many families experience.

Settle down for a quiet evening, then Helena pops her head in to ask if I'm ok. Now a whole compartment to myself, this is another new aspect of train life for me.
 
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Day 12 - Friday 10 March into East Russia ~ Train Day 6

​It's 00:55 Thursday morning, we are pulling into Chita, quite a few military get off, others get on. As usual I sit with the compartment door open and hear people moving down the corridor. First the Colonel passes with a big smile and says auf Wiedersehen, next up is the athlete Major, he comes in the compartment drops his kit bags and hugs me, wow. Then he does it again and speaks only in Russian, then the third time and there are tears running down his face, I can only say "next time" but don't know why. Picks his bags up and goes, then comes back for one last hug! Last, the smiling Major comes in but only 2 sets of hugs, he too has tears in his eyes. He says we can be friends after (I assume when he leaves the military. No.4 Major is gone, but he has left his passion for the wild parts of Siberia with me.

These Russians are very proud to be Russian, but are very human too.

Read more of Mr Roth and go to bed, but on the way to our compartment can see another batch of mid 30's military have taken the previous officers compartment, oh dear what next.

Ruth tells us it was - 14 oC last night, we sit in the compartment in T shirts and lightweight clothes so would never know. Outside the terrain is scrubby, looks difficult for anything to grow here. It's no surprise that permafrost covers this area and only the toughest plants can grow.

Frozen rivers are used as roads, we've never seen that before but it's starting to look commonplace. Tracks on the snow covered rivers are from all types of vehicles and footprints too.

There are large log piles beside homes that are occupied, a lot more pine and conifer here than before but would like to know what they prefer to burn. The snow has disappeared on the southern slopes but it's very cold indeed.

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We decide to go get a late breakfast from the dining car (we'll I did and Rosie come along for company) but the breakfast menu is now finished. Did ask for my version of an American breakfast and got sort of close to what I want. Made the mistake of not specifying how the eggs were to be cooked, big mistake. But as I was paying was determined to eat them...
Across the aisle were a couple of 20 something young Russian men drinking beer, very open and friendly. A little English, a tiny amount of Russian and we learn they are Maxim and Dimitri who live and work in Chita. Maxim has his own florist business, and Dimitri with the beard is a civil engineer working for a large company. They don't meet many (any?) foreigners in Chita and are very curious about us, and full of fun (or is that the beer?). They offer to buy us drinks but it's only 11:00am and as both are not beer drinkers it's too much for us, but we said maybe later.

Maxim and Dimitri

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They are off on a mission to buy a car in Vladivostok, 3000 kms from their home in Chita. They will buy a used car there and drive it back to Chita in 2 days, one sleeps, the other drives. I offer my services as a 3rd driver as it sounds like an adventure, unexpectantly they say it's a good idea. They start to make plans on how I can catch Rosie and Ruth up in Taiwan, they think I'll be useful and it would be fun.

Reluctantly I have to tell them that it's not possible and I didn't expect them to say yes, but in another time I would help them at the drop of a hat. We make an exit, not sure who is most disappointed, them or me.
 
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Very enjoyable read, and excellent photos too. I like the night shots and the interesting perspectives, you have a great eye! I guess you have a pretty decent camera?

Looking forward to the next instalment,

Ed.
Hello Ed, it's a Sony DSC-HX300, 2 -3 years old. I think they are called a bridge camera as they are not a compact and not a full blown DSLR.

We own a very spiffy semi professional camera for work purposes, but it's bulky, heavy and you need maybe 3 lenses to give you a range for all occasions. The last time we used it for travel we ended up using our tablet more than the camera as it was so cumbersome. A month or two later a couple who live full time in their camper stayed at our place in France, they were using the forerunner to this camera. What impressed most was the weight or lack of it, plus had seen their photos in a blog and was impressed.

This camera has limitations but for travel they are not many. Funny but it doesn't like heavily clouded days but will be pretty good at night. The zoom is unusable beyond about 50% unless on a robust tripod.

If I take the identical photo with our Canon and try to give the shot some thought, the Canon will be twice as good, or brilliant if I get it right by accident. With the Sony we leave everything on full auto and get what you see.

On day 2 of this journey a fault code started flashing on the screen, it shows the electronic stabilization program has stopped working as anything beyond a mild zoom requires enormous bracing to get a half decent shot, but it's not as good as usual. A Sony Center in Moskva confirmed the fault but were not a repair center, so hoped that Kaohsiung Sony Repair Center would be able to carry out repairs, but there was not enough time as they were busy. We may try in LA this week or wait till we are back in London.

Hope this answers you question, and thanks for the encouragement.
 
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Certainly the pictures are very good, compared to my usual efforts, maybe the skill is yours, more than the camera.

I was interested in the photo of the provodnic with the "helper" carrying the flags. It looks as though the flags are held furled together by a cable tie?

I remember seeing a documentry about Indian railways, where platform trainees were told that the two flags always had to be ready for action. "The red flag must always be held in the right hand, it is the most important of the two, and there is less chance of dropping or fumbling with right hand if needing to use in emergency" Not sure how left handed folk got on... :D

I can't quite get my head around the idea that you will be in L.A. as soon as next week... seems so far from Russia!

Ed.
 
Los Angeles - 00:10 Tuesday 21 March

We were met at LAX airport by our friend Milton, shuttle then car back to his home in the San Fernando Valley

Ed, I think the female is Provodnitsa and the male is Provodnik. It was probably an elastic band as Helena was very correct with all she did, but if Helena ever comes to visit us we'll ask. Never saw flags being used as they may be for an emergency only? Think they only came out for the benefit of the small girl but not 100%.

7 days on the Trans Sib didn't tire us as much a day spent going through airports and 15 1/2 hours flying, still this is my usual moan. The flying was just about ok, not good for your body though I bet, but all the fuss going through 3 airports in 24 hours is to be avoided.

Funny, but entry in the US was surprisingly very simple even though another level of checking has been added since 6 months ago. Got a smile from the passport border control man who told us his job at LAX airport was straight forward compared to working on the Mexican border. Also got a smile and a joke from the customs officer too, all in all a good experience but the smiles and jokes are new experiences for us going through US border controls.

But you're right Ed, it is amazing to think this time last week we had only just left Russian Vladivostok, spent a week in very eastern Taiwan, and arrived here in another totally different culture of American LA, it is hard to take in and possibly it will take weeks to appreciate.

We're now very tired so will take it easy tomorrow, no more trains or buses until the Sunset Limited this Friday evening coming.
 
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A couple of Trans Siberian Rossiya 002 interior photos, a couple of engines plus more Babushkas

The Restaurant Car

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A 'Kupe' 2nd Class compartment awaiting passengers

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Engines

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Babushkas trying to make a little money

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Day 12 - Friday 10 March into East Russia ~ Train Day 6 ...... continued

​Get back to our compartment and find we have our 3rd new room-mate, a 26 year old Russian naval officer old called Anatoly, he's a good looking extremely fit young man and Rosie didn't mind at all!

He speaks almost no English but we learn he is a 2nd Lieutenant based at the moment in Vladivostok but comes from inland eastern Russia. We are all fascinated how he appears to just with one bound get up or down from the upper bunk, he smiles when he realises we are watching in amazement. Mostly he sleeps for the 36 hours or so before we reach Vlad, but does try to join in with us at odd moments, especially when there is a phone signal and translators can be used.

Yesterday one of the two car toilets was blocked, but Helena was quickly on to it and called in a maintenance man from another car. Today it blocked again, this time along a bucket of water, a plunger and a what appeared to be a pink hot water bottle with a hose attached? were used, it didn't block again.

Helena is starting to look very tired, and says to us "sleep, I need sleep". It's no wonder as she is into day 6 of a more or less 24 hour a day job, and boy this woman works hard.

We have made a dinner date with Sharon the traveller and travel writer from New York City, we are meeting up in the restaurant car at 6pm. We spend 2+ hours over dinner, Sharon is fascinating to us all as we are all frequent travellers. She answers questions about her life in travel and writing, and if I have it right broadcasting too. Ruth asks almost as many questions as I do, this lady is very good company. We mention AU to her, she notes it down for future research.

Toward the end of the meal Dimitri and Maxim arrive back in the restaurant car for a few more beers, another couple of Russian men come in a few minutes later, it's starting to get busy and sees the staff animated at last. D and M have a young girl with them, about 10 years old, she is the daughter of a friend of theirs from Chita and she wants to meet the English speaking people she has heard about.

Sharon soon leaves us, she writes up notes at the end of her day and is always awake before daybreak, so it's early to bed for her. As Sharon leaves so a tall slim young lady with a big smile arrives, it later turns out to be Anastasia the 10 year old's mum. Now this really did happen.

She walks straight up to our booth - 'Nastasia is sitting between Rosie and I - she slides onto the end of the seat next to me, puts her arm around me, even bigger smile and Dimitri takes a photo of the 4 of us, I really thought my luck had changed but who is she?

They are all friends from Chita and she is a Firefighter going to Vladivostok to treat Nastasia to a water park at the coast, just hope it was indoors. This charming happy lady is the best looking Firefighter I've ever seen.

We all talk in the now familiar fragmented way and the good evening just gets better, train life can be so special. Nastasia is Harry Potter crazy and loves talking to Rosie (Rosie was a Primary teacher for more than 30 years and has a way with children). She calls Harry Potter 'Gary Potter' and after a couple of attempts to correct her Rosie knows better and also renames Harry. Nastasia is also a very good English speaker for her age, she can't get enough of hearing Rosie talk. Nastasia became the unofficial train translator.

Our Chita friends with Rosie and Ruth

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After an hour or so we 3 are ready to leave, they have our phone numbers and we have theirs. We pay and bid our farewell to the restaurant car crew as it's the last time we'll eat there, and shake hands all round. I also shake the hand of the 2 unknown Russian men who have been sitting there drinking... mistake.

One is a bear of a man and invites me to drink with them, I explain that it's important to accompany Rosie and Ruth back to our car. The second man is bigger than the bear, has the sort of chiselled features the Soviets would have used on the heroic sculptures they created of strong men leading the way forward, and a handshake that could do serious damage.

We escape and get back to our compartment. Sit there chatting a little and the bear comes along, as usual our door is open, decides he will invite himself in and sits on a lower bed. I explain in German as that appears to be his best 2nd language that we are all off to sleep and although he is welcome we are all tired especially the ladies. Nope, that doesn't work, a drunk that doesn't look like he is drunk.

I ask if he will talk with me in the corridor, just so Rosie and Ruth don't have to cope with him. Ruth who can be feisty tells him to leave too and that does it. We gravitate down to the end of the car away from sleeping people and he sees Helena's open door, in he goes, this is getting worse as I look like his accomplice. 2 minutes later Helena orders him out and he goes, I say sorry and she scowls.

We stand in the doorway between cars and he produces from somewhere on his person 3 cans of beer, he thrusts one at me and says "drink". Really don't want to drink but take the can not opening it, this is not feeling like a good situation as the only real help in this car is Helena at 4' 11".

He explains he is an Army Colonel coming from Chita and going to a city a 1/2 day before Vladivostok. It's either his home or where he is based. He glowers and growls a lot because I wont drink, so it's open the can to appease him. He has pulled out a Russian Army tee shirt and says it's for me, then pulls the tab on one of his cans of beer and downs the contents on one go, wipes his face and says "I'm a man". Within seconds does exactly the same with the second can, now "I'm a real man", oh dear.

I start to sip very slowly and attempt a little humour, can't find a way out of this situation. Saying 'I'm not much of a man' falls on deaf ears and he's getting louder. Helena comes out and shouts at us to keep quiet but she didn't have the answer of how to get rid of him.

He's watching if I am drinking all the beer, then says in very good English in a low growl, " it would be very easy to kill you ", at this point I'm watching him closely and paying a lot of attention to what he says and does. No longer sure if this man is very drunk, angry or just lonely but didn't want to hang around to find out. Said I have to pee which he thought was reasonable, he stepped aside as the toilets are at the other end of the car. Thought of diving into our compartment on the way through but thought it could then involve the girls, bad idea. Longer time in the bathroom than needed and hope he has got bored, tired or wandered off as drunks do, great he's gone, phew.

Walk smartly down the corridor and almost there, he comes out blocking the corridor, between me and our compartment. He's holding his uniform jacket with lots of insignia all over it, points at a patch and says, "Russian Army", I nod and think will this ever end. He then rips the velcro'd insignia from the arm and gives it to me "Russian Army good!", I nod and mutter "very good" and think please don't insist I take it but of course he does. I tell him I'll treasure it and plan to hand it back in the morning. Can I be arrested for having a part of a serving Russian Colonels uniform? but that is less important than finding the escape route which he supplies. He needs to pee too which is no surprise. He goes one way and I dive into our compartment, lock the door and sit there waiting to see if he gets the idea, and yes he's gone.

Unfortunately the above is all true.
 
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Gosh, what an ordeal so soon after a great time at dinner. It reminds me in a small way of when I worked as a taxi driver... I hated picking up boorish drunks ! Glad you escaped at last.

Ed.
 
Gosh, what an ordeal so soon after a great time at dinner. It reminds me in a small way of when I worked as a taxi driver... I hated picking up boorish drunks ! Glad you escaped at last.

Ed.
No wonder you are so laid back when travelling, as a taxi driver you have probably seen it all.

I'm sure that no harm was meant but not 100% sure. He didn't appear to have a sense of humour but that may just have been the level of inebriation? Whatever, if you don't have the odd strange moment you have nothing to judge the good moments by, and we've all had unusual things happen to us at some time or another.
 
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Day 13 - Saturday 11 March into East Russia ~ Train Day 7

​Writing this 2 minutes outside Tuscaloosa, AL, riding the #20 Crescent north to New York Penn. On-board wifi is excellent, thought it would only be available in the lounge maybe, but we're in coach and it's all we need.

* * * * *​

So day 7, our last full day of the Trans Sib has arrived. After 7 continuous days on the same train it feels as though we belong, familiar with the systems and with each other. A small number of passengers have ridden all the way from Moscow, but it's not many. Us 7 day riders are all bit weary, maybe it's mental fatigue as it certainly isn't from too much exercise.

Today we're looking to see if the terrain and scenery change as we travel down the peninsular to Vladivostok, it's all nearly due south today. Also know the drinking Colonel and his comrades leave just after mid-day, that will be a relief.

Our first Lenin at Obluchye

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A series of almost black & white photos heading south

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Saw the drinking Colonel twice during the morning, wanted to hand back his Army insignia but he wouldn't talk, that's how it goes.

Also during the morning go through the first ever tunnel driven through Permafrost, then the second. They were pretty long affaires too and must have created their own engineering problems way back then. They did come across as being particularly dark inside, not sure what material the tunnel goes through but the walls are quite black. All this is added to as the tunnels are not lit and the train interior lights were not switched on, the perfect Agatha Christie murder scenario?

It's also our last time zone change in Russia, the seventh since leaving Moscow so roughly one each day. It does create an awareness of where you are and at what time problem. With such frequent time changes which are not helped by the train and stations being run on Moscow time it needed not only good calculating skills but a bit of imagination.

Three photos to give the feel of how cold Khabarovsk was, intense is probably an understatement

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Most of the military have left now, but the train becomes busier than ever as the local population are using the train as their local one. Most people are heading for Vladivostok, it's coming across as a big trade centre having year round access to the Pacific and a close border with China. We have read that the Russian authorities would like to develope this remote (from Moscow) but strategically important city (the base of their Pacific Fleet) into something similar to San Francisco, we know they do already have a new bridge called the 'Golden Bridge'.

At the end of a real 'Siberia day' we decided to celebrate having crossed the largest country on earth by train, and with the red wine gone it had to be the remaining Polish Slivovitz which we had since learned was technically a plum tasting Wodka. Of course our naval officer Anatoly had to be included, do Russians know how to sip alcohol?

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Early tomorrow, or is that today we really arrive at Vladivostok, for all three of us a childhood ambition. But we no longer know if we are arriving today or tomorrow. It will be 23:55 on Saturday evening according to Moscow / train time, but as we step out of Vladivostok station onto Vlad soil it will be 06:55 on Sunday morning, it is starting to feel as though we are time travellers.
 
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