On 5/19/2010 I began a trip around the western half of the country that was almost perfect in every way. To begin with, most of it was on AGR points and it cost me very little out of pocket as the entire six days was on a train with all meals provided. No hotels (except one on the way home), no rental cars, just trains.
The trip did involve two short air flights from and to IND and Chicago O'Hare. But, rather than take the train between IND and CHI it was more convenient to fly both ways. And, as this was the time of my wife's annual girl's week out, this year to be in Atlanta. While she is out antiquing, watching movies, dining out in fine restaurants, she allows me to ride trains for a week. Usually I make a series of shorter day trips, but it all came together for this one big trip this year.
After flying from IND to ORD I would take the SWC to LAX, the CS to PDX, and the EB back to CHI. Connections were my concern, especially between the CS and EB, but more about that later. I was also able to visit, although very shortly, with some AU folks along the way.
5/19/2010
My wife and I have family in IND so we drove there the night before as we needed to be at the airport by 6:00 AM for our flights which left within an hour of each other. IND has a new terminal that is accessed by a route much further from the city than the old terminal. Very nice place, lots of room and not very crowded, even on a Wednesday morning. We parked in the economy lot and a shuttle bus was waiting to take us to the check in area.
We had both checked in on line. I had a carry on but my wife had a larger bag that needed to be checked. If you do that on line it is $23.00 instead of $25.00 at the airport.
When I checked in on line they also offered me the ability to claim a seat with extra legroom for an additional $19.00. The system then asked if I wanted to pay $14.00 to be able to use the quick security line with "no waiting". I declined that, also. Can you imagine Amtrak doing these things?
It took us about 7-8 minutes to get through security. In addition to taking off my shoes, I had to take off my belt and I had the pleasure of the new full body scan system where they get to see me nude. I should have charged them for that sight! It only took about 2-3 seconds and I was done and exited the large machine used for this new process.
So, we were through security and had time for breakfast before we left for our respective gates, my wife in one terminal and I was in the other.
We board the plane and departed IND 5 minutes early. Not an empty seat on the plane and I didn't see any seats that would have given me $19.00 worth of extra leg room. One of those small regional jets.
We landed at ORD 25 minutes early!
I had had some discussion on the forum about taking the O'Hare Transfer Metra to CUS and if I would have enough time to get out to the Metra Station. My plane was to have arrived at 9:05 but as I mentioned we were at the gate by 8:40. Since it was United and we were at the furtherest out terminal I would have a long walk. I found out there is a shuttle bus one can take from that terminal to the F-G terminal and be very close to the secure area exit, where I need to go. So, within a few minutes I was out of the secure area and boarding the terminal tram that also goes out to the economy parking lots where the O'Hare Transfer Metra station is located.
The tram ride was about a 6 minute ride to the end, and then you walk down a flight and board a shuttle bus that goes right to the entrance of the Metra Station. The next train was at 10:00 AM. I found myself there at about 9:20, so plenty of time.
The train was right on time and arrived at CUS about 10:45 AM. I walked to the ticket counter and picked up my tickets for the entire route. I figured since I wouldn't be off the train anywhere I had little chance of losing them. And, with short connections in LAX and PDX I didn't know if I would have time to print tickets in those locations. Turns out in PDX we stepped off the CS and right onto the EB that was waiting as we were a few minutes late arriving in PDX. More on that later.
I used a ticket agent as I also had some other business I needed to conduct involving a voucher. Nice, friendly agent who handled everything quickly and perfectly.
I then went to the Metropolitan Lounge to check in and leave my carryon bag in the luggage room. I had a beverage and relaxed for a few minutes. Even at this hour of the AM the place was packed. I then went out and walked around the station a bit and exited out the Canal Street side of the Great Hall. Just down Jackson was my destination. Lou Mitchell's.
I was there for an early lunch as breakfast had been very early at IND. While there is lots to choose from on the menu, I had my favorite Lou Mitchell burger, the Olive Burger. Nice large patty covered with chopped green olives, a side of fires, and a large iced tea. Doesn't get any better than that.
After lunch I enjoyed the beautiful, rather cool day in Chicago and walked north on Clinton and then east toward the river before getting back to CUS and the lounge about 12:45 PM. I now only had to wait until they called for #3 to board.
They called us about 30 minutes before scheduled departure time and I made my way to the 31 car and roomette 8. I was concerned about being close to the door, but that didn't become a problem during the trip. In fact, I went to the transdorm car to use the facilities as it was much closer and no one ever questioned me about that. I think there were only two roomettes in use in that car.
But here is an interesting question. At no time during the entire trip were all the roomettes in use in the 30 and 31 cars. Why would they therefore put folks in the transdorm car?
We were about 5 minutes late leaving CUS and would remain down at many stops along the way.
Antonio was the SCA and while he was there when I needed him, he wasn't obtrusive and was out of sight most of the time. Fellow named Chris was the LSA in the dining car. He and his staff did their jobs appropriately.
I asked for and was given a 5:15 reservation for the evening meal (early lunch at Lou's).
By the time we reached Galesburg we were about 10 minutes down.
They called the 5:15 sitting and I made my way to the dining car. A problem that would continue throughout the trip started right away.
There were maybe 3-4 tables with folks sitting at them, some two, some four to a table. Yet, they insisted, and made a very big deal about it, that you had to sit to fill up a table before they would start another one. I know this is the procedure and it doesn't bother me. But, it bothered some passengers and they were vocal about it. Here's the rub. Not at any meal did I see all the tables being used. That is, there were always many empty tables. The dining car never filled up! Why, when a couple asks to sit alone, then, would they not let them do so? Makes no sense to me. They are serving the same number of people. They took reservations from everyone before service started so they know how many to expect. Guess that is one of the, "there's no reason for it, it's just our policy" things that happen on Amtrak.
I had the BBQ beef, mashed, and mixed veggies. HD ice cream for dessert. Very good tasty meal. I have come to like the honey mustard dressing a lot.
We pulled into Ft Madison about 5 down and it was a crew change/smoke stop. I got off and found AU member GregL waiting for me. We had met a number of years ago and he wanted to stop by the train and say HI. We had about 5-6 minutes to chat. It was good to see him again and one of these years we'll get him to a Gathering.
He works at a plant in the area and I shot some video as we passed by after leaving Ft Madison.
By now it is getting on to evening and the early departure from IND is catching up with me. It is almost 10:00 PM for my body time. Antonio makes up my room and I'm off to sleep. I had wanted to wait until after KC but couldn't make it. I found out the train was about 30 down, so a short dwell time there, anyway.
Across Kansas it began to rain really hard and pounded against the side of the train, waking me up. Lots of lightning and thunder, too.
I was able to get about 6 hours of sleep, so felt better for the next long day on the train.
5/20/2010
Went to breakfast about 6:30. Not many there but the same problem forcing everyone to sit together.
Had my usual scrambled eggs, sausage, potatoes, coffee and OJ. Very good.
We were back on time, now and made La Junta and Trinidad on schedule.
I had a 12:15 for lunch and also visited the SSL car for a while. I just can't get comfortable in that car. Something about the glare and reflections in the curved glass that bother me. I stayed for a while, but then went back to my room.
During this full day on the train at meal times and in the sleeper car I met a number of interesting people. People I enjoyed talking with, but probably will never see again in my life.
I met a Greek Orthodox Priest (in full regalia) and we chatted for a few minutes. He was in a roomette on the lower level.
I met some missionaries from the Chicago area. Very pleasant conversations with them during the trip.
I met a nice lady who had been visiting her grandkids in Chicago and was on her way home to New Mexico. We compared lots of grandkid stories.
We arrived in ABQ about right on time, if not a little early, and would have a little less than an hour before departure. I stepped off the train and was hit in the face with 95 degrees of furnace blast. Quite a change from the cool of Chicago.
I took the time to stretch my legs and walk the train to note the consist.
Engines 38 and 124
Bag 1260
Trans 39031
Sleepers 32030 and 32054
Diner 38016
SSL 33037
Coaches 34072, 34059, and 31029
I looked at the vendor stands but didn't purchase anything. They seemed to be doing a brisk business, though.
Nice ride through the Raton area before we reached ABQ. The café car person gave a little history of the area as we rolled through.
We had changed from CT to MT at lunch and my body is feeling the time change. So, I went to bed early, again, as the announced breakfast would start at 5:00 AM the next day before arriving at LAX.
I wasn't to have uninterrupted sleep, again.
Short stop at Flagstaff woke me up and I looked out the window and was able to get back to sleep.
Then, at Williams Junction we stopped and all hell broke loose. There were two tour buses waiting for the train. Probably 50-60 people milling around on the platform. Interestingly only about 20 would get on the train and the others got back on the buses. But of the 20 that boarded the train, 6-8 ended up in our sleeping car. They were loud, yelling and screaming at the folks left on the platform who would eventually get back on the buses. Antonio showed them to their rooms, one which was right next to mine. Lots of banging and talking about how things worked, etc.
Then, of all things, they took them all to the diner for a snack and about an hour later they all came back to the sleepers and started the whole noise thing all over. What a night!
I was able to get back to sleep after midnight and slept until about 4:30 AM. I had breakfast at 5:00 and was ready to be in LA. After two of my 5 total nights on the train I was coming to the conclusion that I'm wider than a roomette bed is!
5/21/2010
Even though the SWC historically over the last few weeks before my trip had been arriving in LAX almost an hour early, we were only 15 minutes early. Still plenty of time to make my connection with the CS.
I stepped off the train and made my way toward one of the ramps to go to the station. I was met on the platform by the ever ubiquitous WHOOZ from AU fame although I had a hard time recognizing him as he was without his famous fez!
We walked down the tunnel to the station, went out front for some pictures to prove I was there and he advised me he had a message from Saxman that he would be in on the next Surfliner from SAN.
So, we walked back out to the platforms and missed him as he was walking back to the station. We all eventually caught up and had a nice little visit. I needed to check in at the Traxx Lounge so Whooz and Saxman decided they would go over to Philippe's for breakfast. I had eaten on the train and didn't have much time before I would board so we said good bye. Not for long, though. The conductor took tickets in the lounge and advised we were free to go to the train. I did so as I wanted to drop my luggage in the room and stake out a PPC seat on the coast side.
The way the sleepers are usually set, my roomette would normally have been on the inland side, but they had it set with my room on the coast side. You just never know.
I think I was the first one on the train. Dropped my bag in the room and walked a few steps to the PPC. What a fantastic car. I had seen them and been in one when we had the Gathering in LA a couple of years ago. This would be my first ride in one. It started to fill up fast.
While I was sitting there in the station waiting for our departure, WHOOZ and SAXMAN showed up outside my window. A nice lady in the seat next to mine said she would save it for me and I went back out to say good-bye, again. Will see them both in October in STL at the next Gathering.
We left on time and were on schedule until south of Oxnard where we slowed, stopped, went slowly and lost 25 minutes doing this. 20 minutes down in SBA. Then we crawled across Vandenberg AFB. We will make up some of the time later in the trip.
What can I say about the scenery? Absolutely magnificent. I always enjoy going through New Mexico and Arizona, but the coast line was stunning. Big waves, surfers, moving so close to the water you feel like you can smell the salt in the air. The nice lady in the chair next to mine was from Chicago on her way to visit friends in Oregon. We had some nice conversation and decided to have lunch together in the PPC, too.
But, when we went to lunch we immediately lost our seats in the other end of the car. But, we had past the coast line area and were turning inward. So, I went back to my room for the first time since I boarded at LAX.
I decided to experience dinner in the PPC that evening and had a late reservation. I was seated alone at the table and had roast duck breast. Very tasty and almost too much to eat.
Getting dark so I decided to turn in for the evening. Very good SCA, forget his name, who was an extra board staff person.
I was able to get a good night's sleep and be ready for my last day on the Coast Starlight in the morning.
5/22/2010
I was up early and after a shower decided I would go to the regular diner for breakfast since the PPC didn't open as early. Bad mistake. Terrible staff and service. Many people openly complaining about it. We learned that one server should probably be retired as he had no clue, any longer, about what he was supposed to be doing. But, amazingly, the food was good.
At Klamath Falls I was able to walk the train for the consist. We had actually arrived 20 minutes early.
Engines 179 and 152
Bag – didn't see a number
Trans 39033
Sleepers 32081 and 32050
PPC 39975
Diner 38055
SSL 33093
Coaches 34093, 34504, and 34113
We are now in the northern California, southern Oregon area in the mountains and it is snowing like there is no tomorrow. In some places looks to be 4-6 inches on the ground.
One lady took a nice picture of the pine trees with snow all over them and said it would be on her Christmas card in December – with the date on the bottom!
They say the temp is about 30 degrees outside.
After being early we lose time behind a UP freight and then come to a dead stop.
5 minutes, 10, 15, 20. The PA comes on and they announce there is a section of bad track and UP is coming to inspect it. We can see all the conductors and engineers out on the side of the train looking at it. Evidently the engines and first three cars went over the bad spot before they knew what was going on. Everything stayed on the track and I never learned how they knew it was bad.
UP crew showed up, had a look, and allowed the train to continue over the place about 1-2 MPH as they all stood there and watched. Don't know if it was a loose joint, or what. They got the entire train past the place in question, boarded the conductors and off we went.
I was able to find a seat in the PPC again and more interesting people were there to converse with. It becomes almost family like in this car. What great camaraderie.
I met a retired naval pilot who has decided he will never fly commercial again.
A lady who runs a B&B in a system where folks come stay with her and she can go stay with them, almost like a time share.
A young couple from the Midwest who were on their way to Seattle to go on an Alaskan cruise.
Then, a really interesting lady, probably in her early 70's, who hates the train, but her daughter makes her take it as she doesn't want her flying. So, she goes and comes back every year on the train to visit family, but she just hates the train! Says the food and service are terrible.
I saw rooms where the curtains were never opened, folks stayed in them all the time. Others of us left our doors and curtains open all the time we are in the room except when sleeping. All kinds of people on the train!
As we are getting closer to PDX we gain some of the time back and I'm feeling comfortable about making my connection to the EB. But, we get within sight of Portland Union Station on the bridge and come to a complete stop. I can literally see the station out my window.
5 minutes, 10, 15, 20, 25 – no movement!
I was to have had almost an hour between trains. That time is slowly melting away.
30 minutes, 35, 40, 45, 50 – no movement!
Then, we start to slowly move and in 3-4 minutes, as we were so close, we pull into the station. The EB is on the track next to us and I step off my car walk a few feet and board the 30 car on the Portland section of the Empire Builder. I'm on the ground maybe two minutes. I had hoped to get in the station and get some pictures, but it wouldn't happen today.
I was met at the door by probably the best SCA I have ever experience in my limited amount of Amtrak travel.
Stephanie
There aren't words to describe someone who can be in three places at the same time doing 6 different things for 4 or 5 different people. She was a dynamo in action.
The 30 car is on the rear of the train and I was able to spend a lot of time at the rail fan window. Some great views. Especially when we will go through the Glacier Park area in the morning.
But, we didn't have a dining car, so a cold supper was in store for us that evening. But, here is the good news. The cold evening meal was one of the best I had the entire trip. Stephanie says that Amtrak has a contract with a gourmet restaurant in Portland to prepare these every evening for the train.
I had a cold salmon filet that was very tasty. It was tender and favorable. It came with fruit compote and a salad of zucchini and squash thinly sliced and mixed in a creamy sauce that was delicious. I finished with a large chocolate torte that was to die for. All this served with a cold bottle of champagne.
After that meal I was ready for bed! But not before watching the train slip along the coast of the Columbia river and in the sunset with the outline of Mount Hood in the background. More stunning scenery.
I had heard it might be a more bumpy ride being in the last car, but I didn't sense that this first night. I slept well until we stopped in Spokane. I glanced out the window and could see the Seattle section sitting next to us. Next thing I remember is some very rough track to the east of Spokane.
5/23/2010
I woke up in Montana this morning and back on CT. My body is becoming confused.
We now have the combined train so there is a dining car for breakfast. The only problem is, it is a six car walk to get to it.
I made the trek and found I could have eggs cooked to order and corned beef hash! What a great breakfast.
The staff for this car is excellent and the service is also very good. This is what train travel should be like on every train.
After breakfast we started through the Glacier Park area and I was able to take lots of pictures and video from the rear window. I also found out I wouldn't have any cell phone service until late in the day in eastern Montana and western North Dakota. AT&T lied to me when they said the cover the country.
Later in the day I found out why the crew may have been at the top of their form. The Seattle Operations Manager for Amtrak was a passenger on the train. Stephanie introduced us as she knew I was an AU member and perhaps would like to have some discussions with the manager.
I introduced the manager to AU and we discussed a number of things. I was told they are really looking at trying to get a CCC on the EB for the Portland passengers. Don't know if or when it might happen, but it is being looked at.
In the afternoon I went to the wine and cheese tasting (free on the EB - $5 on the CS).
Sat with some more interesting people, the press secretary for the governor of Iowa and a pastor from Minnesota who was on vacation with his family and on their way back to Minnesota.
So, as we sped though the now rolling hills of eastern Montana, I sipped wine, ate cheese and crackers and wondered what the poor people in coach were doing.
I opted for the 7:00 dinner time, was seated with three others who were great conversationalists and I enjoyed a strip sirloin cooked to perfection. Tender, juicy, very favorable. A nice baked potato, salad, and HD ice cream for dessert. My last supper on the train was a dandy!
All day we had been 15-20 minutes early at every station stop. I would awake in the morning to find us 35 minutes down. Never did learn where we lost the time.
5/24/2010
I made my way back through the 6 cars to the diner for breakfast about 6:00 AM. Quite an experience to step into a coach car where everyone is asleep with legs sticking out over the arm rests, assorted smells and odors and snoring noises. A number of people were asleep on the floor in the SSL, too.
Another great breakfast of eggs over with corned beef and biscuits.
We were still down 35 minutes arriving in MSP. So, not much time there. I was able to get off for a few minutes but they had us stay close to the door as we would leave quickly. Five roomettes emptied in MSP and five filled. Stephanie was in scramble mode.
The other interesting thing was the temperature at that hour that far north. Had to be close to 90 degrees already – and muggy!
We remained 15 – 20 down all the way to Milwaukee and beyond.
I enjoyed the trip along the banks of the Mississippi and crossing into Wisconsin from the rear window, which by now was getting pretty dirty.
After leaving Milwaukee we made up a little time into Glenview, but Metra was doing track work south of there and that slowed us down, again. But, with all the padding in the schedule we pulled into CUS just about on time.
As I got off the train and started the long walk to the station I was met by AU member, Trogdor (formally known as rmadisonwi). He is one of the AU members who first helped me with many questions I had about my first EB trip 7 years ago. We were able to get back in the lounge until I had to leave to catch my Metra back out to ORD. Had a chance to catch up since we last saw each other in Boston last October/November at the Gathering.
He and I go way back and have met in Chicago a number of times to chat and share a meal together.
It was time for my Metra train back out to the O'Hare Transfer station. Uneventful ride and when I arrived I called my hotel and they had the shuttle stop by and pick me up so I didn't have to retrace all the way back to the terminals.
I stayed at the Residence Inn north of O'Hare where they serve complete evening and breakfast meals included in the price. It was good to sleep in a bed that wasn't swaying and was a bit wider than I had been in the last five nights.
5/25/2010
My plane wasn't until 11:00 Am so I could sleep in, have breakfast and ride the hotel shuttle to ORD. The hotel had a place I could check in and print my boarding pass so I was ready to go.
I was in the security line about 9:30 and amazingly, done and in the secure part of the terminal in about 10 minutes. Not bad at all. And, as in IND, the TSA's were polite, friendly, and very efficient in their work. Maybe I'm fortunate, but I don't have any problems with airports.
This is interesting. I would be in a smaller plane going back to IND than coming up. My carryon wasn't going to fit in the overhead. So, they put a tag on it for me to leave plane side and I would pick it up there in IND. Essentially I had checked luggage but didn't have to pay $25.00 for it!
Arrived in IND 15 minutes early, walked over to gate my wife would be arriving at and she was in the terminal 10 minutes early, too.
Took the shuttle out to our car and started the drive to our daughter's home in Carmel when we got the call that my wife's father was in the hospital and not doing well.
He died on 5/28 and was laid to rest with full military honors in a veteran's cemetery near Ft Knox, KY. He was a retired Lt Col in the Army after 31 years of service to his country.
We are starting to get back to some semblance of normalcy now. I hope you enjoy the report and pictures. I'm working on nearly an hour of video I took during the trip and will have it on my YouTube account with links, soon.
Questions – comments – let me know.
MrFSS (Tom)
The report can wait!
