Saved by the SOB

[allanorn]

The title will become a little more apparent later. For now, let me tell you a story about how Swiss punctuality and efficiency can be a double-edged sword, how to apply lessons I have just recently learned, and how Swiss train operations allow me to not worry about it too much.

12 September 2023
ICE 275 Freiburg im Breisgau - Bern // 11.02 - 12.56

After a great few days in Freiburg, I needed to get to my last destination of this trip - Lausanne, Switzerland. I needed to get there before 6:30pm so I could pick up the keys of the apartment I was renting from the owner. Seeing as I had a few hours to get there after checking out of my rented apartment in Freiburg, I bought a train ticket that stopped at Bern to check out the city for a few hours before heading to Lausanne. I heard that you could spend a day in Bern but it's not a place that requires much more than that.

For this part I seriously considered buying tickets on the day as I had done with French and Belgian trains. However, I saw an ICE ticket that fit very well with my schedule and it was priced fairly. This would also allow me to eat lunch on the train, which would give me a bit more time to roam around Bern. I admit that the currywurst on Deutsche Bahn's (DB) menu caught my eye, and it's apparently very popular. That settled, I felt comfortable about purchasing an ICE ticket weeks in advance and saving a bit of cash.

Fast forward to the night before this train, when during dinner I get another message from the DB app that "my journey has been canceled". Unfortunately, there are no options to rebook on the app. This isn't what I was expecting! So after dinner I trundled down to the train station and talked to one of the staff members in the service center (Reisenzentrum). He prints out a page with the updated itinerary.


My train isn't "canceled", but it's terminating at Basel SBB because something's happened on the Swiss side. Instead of a through-train, I now have to change trains at Basel SBB with a nine-minute transfer time.

Fortunately, I've been to Basel SBB before and it's an easy transfer. What makes it slightly more annoying is that hundreds of people are probably doing this with me. Again, this is no big deal. Nine minutes is plenty of time to make the transfer here, unless you're going from the French TER tracks to the Swiss tracks.

Once I get back to the apartment I pack my bags as best I can, tidy up the apartment, watch a little TV, and then eventually fall asleep with confidence that everything will be fine.

 

[allanorn]

12 September 2023

ICE 275 // Freiburg - Basel SBB 11.02 - 11.47
SBB IC61 dba ICE 30575 // Basel SBB - Bern 11.56 - 12.56

The morning of the trip is great. I wake up, have breakfast, clean the rest of the apartment, get a couple of last-minute souvenirs, and by 10.40 I'm walking to the train station. It's a warm day, but this is the last day of a week-long September heatwave in Northern Europe. The walk to the train station is about ten minutes, and in no time I've found the platform for my train.

Unfortunately, the train is running 15 minutes behind schedule. That the train is only fifteen minutes behind schedule is probably impressive given that this train originated from Hamburg this morning. Let's also keep in mind that Amtrak wouldn't even mention a fifteen minute delay as that is often "on time" to them! However, astute readers will recognize that my nine-minute connection is in danger - and to my surprise, the DB app remains silent on this issue. It still thinks my trip is canceled.

While thumbing through the DB app, I notice the reason why we now have a two-train itinerary: "bridge strike". Further research on SBB's site indicates that one of the bridges on our route has been struck by something that caused enough damage to necessitate repairs earlier in the month. Unfortunately, the repairs were expected to take three weeks, significantly affecting the main line connecting Basel (with it's huge marshaling yards) to the rest of the country. The main line was reduced to single-track operation in the interim - which meant a lot of passenger trains had to be canceled in order to maximize capacity. I surmise that SBB kept this slot for the DB train, but insisted they run their train through Switzerland, because of DB's (lack of) on-time performance.

The train arrives as expected. It's a fourteen-car ICE4, lead car 9498. There weren't a lot of people leaving the train, so we hurried on. We leave at 11.17, fifteen minutes behind schedule.

Lunch is unfortunately thwarted, as they closed the bistro car before Freiburg so staff can depart at Basel. As much as I want to have a currywurst I can't blame them for closing the bistro early. It means I'm going to have to spend some time eating in Bern.

High-speed lines in this part of Germany aren't as scenic as those in France, as Germany uses a lot more trees and sound-dampening walls here. The line is close to homes and runs through sections of town, much like it has since the 1850s. But despite a couple of construction zones and a little traffic, we start making up time. We hit our top speed of 250km/h briefly, as we exit a tunnel on approach to Stein am Rhein, and by this point we get an updated arrival time of 11.54. Sadly, we get the bad news: it's not a cross-platform transfer, but our train will be the next platform over from ours.

At this point I'm thinking about the connection. Would SBB hold the train for a minute or two for a cross-platform transfer? I honestly don't know the answer, especially as we go through a single-track section of line that is constraining a good portion of the country.

All of us pull our luggage down and start to form a line for the door as we pull into Basel SBB. The train screeches to a halt, the doors open, and we're off the train. Most everyone else is near the front of the train and starts heading up to the main overbridge. I choose to hustle up and down a flight of stairs on the opposite side, as I'm closer to the lesser-used crossbridge. It is not easy to run with a 20-lb carry-on shoulder bag and a backpack, but I try my best.

It is when I reach the bottom of the stairs of the next platform over that I get my answer: the Swiss do not care if your train is almost on time; their train will depart on time. The doors have closed and it's coming to pass me on the platform.



I'm not angry, just a little disappointed. But I completely understand SBB's perspective here given the situation.

Fortunately I know what to do.

 

[allanorn]

12 September 2003
ICE 275 // Freiburg (DE) - Basel SBB 11.02 (+15) - 11.47 (+8)
Basel SBB - Bern TBD

The saying goes that if you want to experience German precision and efficiency, you should visit Switzerland. They weren't kidding!

From the last trip report, I know I have CIV 1080 protections and I can get on the next available train. I don't know what that train is, so that's my first step. Unfortunately my phone is on a German prepaid SIM which was deemed useless the instant we crossed into Switzerland. The Swiss aren't part of the EU and thus it is considered truly international roaming.

Instead of heading to the service center, I know SBB runs non-reserved trains except perhaps for their international services - and even then reservations are an option. I feel there isn't a risk to just hop on the next train and explaining to the conductors what transpired. I imagine they're used to DB running late anyway. I also notice the horde of passengers just now descending from the main overbridge onto the platform and realizing that they no longer have a train to board....

I ask two guys on the platform what their plans are. They're catching the next train in half an hour. I trust them but should verify their information, and perhaps I can do better? Fortunately I researched some of these options before booking the ICE ticket, and I have the SBB long-distance map mostly memorized. (What, you don't?) Here are my options:

1. Get on the next InterCity to Bern - either IC6 or IC61, probably in half an hour.
2. I could get on the next InterCity or InterRegio train heading south, transfer in Olten, and then get to Bern on another train.
3. I could get on IC51 heading to Delémont and have a more scenic ride through the Jura mountains. However, from my guidebook research I know this takes an extra hour, plus currently there's significant track work on that line.
4. How about lunch in Basel and take a much later train? I decide against this as I don't want to abuse the privilege CIV provides and potentially raise the ire of SBB levying a fine for not adhering to the letter of the law.

Fortunately in my rush to make the ICE substitute, I notice a paper departure timetable on the cross bridge. Seeing as in the worst case I am back on the same platform, I hustle up the stairs and start reading from the 11.56 departure. And wouldn't you know it - the next two trains are heading to Olten: an S-bahn at 12.01 and IR26 at 12.03. I check my watch: it's 11.59. I can't make the S-bahn, and that's going to be a local train - but I can gamble on IR26 as it's two platforms away.

I start to run.

I somehow have enough time and less sanity to photograph the train I'm going to make. I get on at the first car I can, which happens to be first class - but I have a minute or two to walk through and try to find a seat before the train starts moving.



This is a train I have been very interested in experiencing. It is not run by SBB! Instead it is run by the Südostbahn - or SOB.

 

[caravanman]

Wow! It's great that you can think on your feet when things go awry!

I appreciate your style of writing, with a good deal of witty humour in the mix too.

I enjoyed a visit to Basle a few years back, interesting to enter part of the station in Germany, and exit in France!

 

[allanorn]

12 September 2023
ICE 275 // Freiburg (DE) - Basel SBB 11.02 (+15) - 11.47 (+8)
SBB IR26 "Treno Gottardo" // Basel SBB - Olten 12.03 - ???
SBB Olten - Bern TBD

In this section I'll cover the Südostbahn (SOB), their trains, and a little bit about Swiss train operations.

The SOB is a small company sponsored by the Swiss federal state and a couple of cantons. They own a few tracks around Arth-Goldau and St. Gallen, and provide S-Bahn (commuter) services in those areas. However, in the past few years they have jointly worked with SBB to provide InterRegio (IR) services on three routes: the "Voralpen-Express" from St. Gallen to Arth-Goldau, the "Treno Gottardo" from Locarno to Basel/Zurich HB, and the "Aare Linth" from Chur to Bern via Zurich HB. InterRegio services are the second-fastest train services in Switzerland behind EuroCity (EC) and InterCity (IC). While EC/IC services generally stop only at major cities and transfer points, IR services cover a few more stops to fill the gap between local trains like S-Bahn/Regional Express (RE) service and the IC services. They're fast enough to get into the next canton or two, but they're not intended to cover long distances like St. Gallen to Geneva or Brig to Basel.

The train I am on is the "Treno Gottardo", or the Gotthard Train. This is the service SBB used to run on the classic Gotthard route over the Alps before the Gotthard Base Tunnel opened in 2016. Once the tunnel opened, SOB stepped in to keep the regional services running to serve the towns along the route. SBB still maintains the infrastructure. In normal times the only way to go on the classic Gotthard route is to use either IR26 (Basel to Locarno) or IR46 (Zurich HB to Locarno). However, with the massive derailment in the tunnel blocking things for the rest of the year - every train that needs to use the tunnel is now on the classic route.

The trains for the SOB IR routes are called "Traverso", but they are essentially Stadtler FLIRTs modified to be used on longer routes. They have a beautiful copper-colored exterior with a red/black/white interior. It looks really nice; my pictures don't really do it justice. The trains stand out from the red/white/blue SBB stock that's ubiquitous in Switzerland.

Seating is 2x2 everywhere (maybe 2x1 in first), mostly in groups of four where 50% of the seating will face backward. The only difference I could tell in hard product between first and second class is the upholstery: first class has leather seats, while second class as shown below uses fabric.



They're certainly comfortable enough in second class for the distances people typically cover on these trains. I would have no problem if I came across this in America on a local or commuter train.

One unique thing this does have that regular FLIRTs do not is an area with a vending machine:



I don't know how many of these are on the train, but there's at least one, and that's what matters. You can buy water, snacks, and even alcohol on the train. For alcohol, you need to swipe a suitable ID or passport to validate your age before purchase. It's a neat system for age validation that we don't see here in the States, because alcohol isn't self-serve like this.

Yes, you can also buy risotto to take home:



I would find out later that the potato chips are good, especially the "Provence" style ones.

While having a drink on board to calm the nerves sounded like a good idea, I passed because I was on an empty stomach. Instead I went to the next machine over and had a coffee:



Who knew that coin-operated coffee machines were still a thing in 2023? Fortunately I had a five-franc coin, so I ordered a cappuccino and waited a minute for the machine to work. While it was after noon and the Italians might object - it was just after noon, and I needed calories to keep me going until Bern and a suitable lunch place. To be honest: it's pretty good coffee! It's similar to what you would get at a Migrolino or a Co-Op at the train stations, and for three francs it's priced roughly the same. Honestly I think it was better than Starbucks; just don't tell them I said that....

Before talking about the rest of the trip, I want to write a little about Swiss train scheduling. The Swiss use clock-face scheduling so all trains have a dedicated X minutes before or after the hour schedule. You can expect to find a Swiss domestic train to have once-hourly service at a minimum; many IR and local trains run a couple of times an hour or better. It wasn't uncommon in Zurich to have a train from Zurich HB to the airport or my airport hotel stop depart every ten minutes or less.

Where Swiss operations shine is in that public transport is fully integrated scheduling across transport modes (e.g., regional buses, trains, and ferries). The goal of Swiss transport scheduling is that transfer/layover times aren't eliminated, but they are minimized. So there are often transfer times of five minutes between buses and trains, or between trains - but you're not going to have more than a ten-minute transfer time. Waiting 45 minutes for the next bus after arriving at a train station by rail is unheard of in Switzerland! The transfers seem to take into consideration what platforms trains arrive and depart at, and they usually include enough time that most people with mobility disabilities can still make the transfer.

One other aspect of this planning is that at rail stations, Swiss IC/EC/IR/RE trains are synced to arrive at major transfer points and cities before the top and bottom of the hour, and leave after the top and bottom of the hour. This way transfer times are minimized, people keep moving, and they don't have irritated customers who have to idle at a train station for a long time for the next train. When it works, and it does with high reliability, it's a wonderful feeling of support.

It is with this knowledge that I could select a train departing Basel and transfer at Olten without needing to worry about exactly when, how long the transfer was going to take, and how much of a hit I was going to take to my journey time. Since Olten is one of two major transfer points between north-south and east-west rail services, the train I was on was likely to arrive there at the bottom of the hour, and I'd have plenty of time to make the transfer because SBB operations are usually that good.

 

[allanorn]

12 September 2023
ICE 275 // Freiburg (DE) - Basel SBB 11.02 (+15) - 11.47 (+8)
SBB IR26 "Treno Gottardo" // Basel SBB - Olten 12.03 - 12.28 (-1)
SBB IR35 "Aare Linth" // Olten - Bern 12.36 - 13.21 (+2)

The trek between Basel and Olten on the main line isn't very scenic. Most of the trip involves weaving through the suburbs of Basel and a few smaller towns on the main line, then a long tunnel, before curving around a marshaling yard and the Olten train station. You could forgive someone for thinking it's part of Germany if you didn't look close enough at the signage on train platforms.

When I finish my coffee and dispose of the cup, I notice a girl in her twenties next to the door. She asks me if I speak English. She's fortunate that it's the only language I can speak at a decent level. We start chatting. She's unsure of the next train she needs to catch, and she's going to Bern. I tell her that I am also going to Bern and she can follow me at Olten. It's not that far to Olten by now, so I grab my bags from the seat and we chat in the vestibule of the vending machine area. She's living in Milan and trying to get home, having booked from Mannheim and originally connecting in Basel. I find out she was on the same ICE train as I was, so she's working on a canceled train and a misconnect on the replacement segment. She had no idea what to do in this scenario, which may indicate that Italians operate trains better than the Germans?

The conductor comes around and scans our tickets. I mention that both of us had a missed connection in Basel from DB and that this was the next available train. He punches a couple of buttons on his screen and says we're in good order. She asks when the next train from Olten to Bern will be. He looks it up and says that we're arriving in Olten shortly at Platform 12, and will be taking a copy of this train to Bern that will be on Platform 9, with a transfer time of nine minutes.

When Swiss train operations work, they really do work!

We arrive at Olten and the doors open a minute early. We make a relaxed transfer down a ramp, walk over to the next platform, and up another platform to see our train to Bern here and ready to go. We board, find an open set of four seats, and continue our conversation - mostly around lighter stuff and what we do. She recently graduated and moved to Milan for work from a smaller town in Tuscany, about two hours from Milan. I write software in the States; has she been to America yet? Stuff like that.

The train to Bern departs on time and we're not taking the higher-speed line direct to Bern. We are instead taking the classic line to make stops in Langenthal, Herzogenbuchsee, and Burchdorf. The scenery gets better once away from Olten, overlooking farms in the canton of Aargau and the canton of Bern. It may not be the jaw-dropping video you see from train drivers on scenic Swiss valley and mountain videos on YouTube, but it reminds you that this is relatively rural farming country. A conductor scans our tickets, when I mention our plight and that this was the next available train. She punches a couple of keys into her phone and says we're good.

Our train eventually arrives into Bern after a short stop on approach to the station. Once entering the train station we get our bags ready for a quick exit. She mentions that she has a half-hour in Bern before her train. I check my watch; she mentioned a 13.34 departure earlier in the conversation. I reply that she has perhaps ten minutes to find her next train because this train took close to an hour to get to Bern. She starts to get nervous, but I mention that I think her train is on the same platform as ours as I saw departure signs while I was pulling my bag down from the overhead storage. I offer to accompany her back to where I saw a departure billboard and assist where I can.

We arrive a couple minutes behind schedule on Platform 50. Bern is interesting in that they have two separate platforms, 49 and 50, that are really extensions of two other main platforms. So we end up walking a couple of minutes before we both see that her train is indeed arriving in a few minutes on the same platform. We bid each other adieu and I head up the closest set of stairs.

I spend the next twenty minutes being utterly lost in the train station because the long platforms are really long and I didn't walk far enough to get to the main train station. I retrace my steps and find out that I was walking around the extension of the train station for platforms 21-24, 49, and 50 - and the main train station is 400 meters from where we departed the train. After reorienting, I find a cash machine, the SBB service center where I pick up a poster, and the luggage lockers, before finally heading out into Bern. Between the lost time due to the misconnect and my faffing about in the train station, I've lost an hour and still need lunch.

I eventually do find lunch at a vegetarian buffet where your food must be weighed before purchase, and end up walking around the UNESCO Old Town of Bern seeing the sights. It is a nice little part of the city, and perhaps I should have spent a full day there. It's a pleasant eighty degrees (27C) with abundant sunshine and a slight breeze that makes it comfortable to walk around and explore; it's a nice end-of-summer day. I eventually make it to Munsterplatz and find a small park behind the church, where kids are running around, a group of senior citizens are playing boules, and about half of those seated have an Aperol spritz in their hands. As I don't have much time in Bern, certainly less than I expected to have, I do what any other intrepid traveler would do in this scenario.

I join my fellow park visitors with an Aperol spritz, grab a seat at a table, and let the world do its thing for an hour.

 

[Willbridge]

Basel SBB is an interesting station, but it's also the only one where I've seen a female panhandler lash out and kick a waiting passenger who would not offer cash.

S-Bahn arrived 0842 on 26 Aug 2018.


Arrived 0844.


After breakfast, panhandled in the plaza over by the station entrance. Otherwise, an enjoyable layover before heading into France.