Empire Builder Chicago to Seattle

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stonesfan

Service Attendant
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Dec 30, 2007
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England
Having sampled the Zephyr from Chi-SLC around two years ago, it was now time to take a relaxing trip on the Empire Builder for the full duration to Seattle. The trip started with a tiredness inducing 8h experience across the Atlantic to DC and then a few days sightseeing in glorious 80f sunshine. Wanted to take the train up to Chicago, but also wanted some extra time to scoop in the fantastic Smithsonian Aviation museum which sits on the boundary of Dulles airport. So decided to compromise, scoop in the museum, fly to Chicago and then take the Empire Builder. About the only disappointment was taking a wander for the first time into DC Station and finding the place covered in netting and scaffolding. Still, if it means the place looking in top shape for the majority of the time then we all know its for the best.

The Arrival at Chicago Union Station was the classic experience that certain American Stations present. An almost apologetic message given off in the lack of signage into the station. We walked through a set of unmarked and unsigned doors which I remembered from last time, into a dimly lit passage and then into the glorious Great Hall which was almost deserted! However, through the doors into the booking areas and the place suddenly bursts into life like walking into a bees nest. As per usual, I'd booked a roomette for me and my partner, so having taken lunch in the beggars palace otherwise known as the food hall we made our way to the 1st class waiting room prior to boarding.

We were called to our train and made our way onto the platform to be greeted by the train and little else. However, a brief use of initiative soon saw us occupying our roomette. With about 10 minutes to go until departure a rather startled traincrew made their way onto the train unaware that the passengers had been called through! A quick welcome and ticket check was performed and the crew hastily got down to their duties. We pulled out of Union Station a little late but were soon yomping along Westwards. Dinner was reserved for 645pm and come this hour we picked our way to the restaurant car to be served a tasty meal from polite staff. Some relaxation was followed by our attendant turning the room into a bedroom, which being 6'4 and a half means chivalry temporarily goes out of the window and her Highness gets the top bunk! Highness in the literal sense.

Sleep wasnt bad at all although we skipped breakfast for some lay in. I wasnt expecting the same spectacular scenery as the Zephyr on day 1, so the miles upon miles of nothingness punctuated with the odd farm or dumped automobile did not disappoint. The observation car is always a great place to meet new people and pass the time of day and once again this certainly didn't disappoint. Lunch and dinner were taken and once again the staff were excellent. An unfortunate incident occurred when we hit a particularly vicious specimen of BNSF cultivated track and an elderly lady lost her balance as the train lurched from left to right. To the on board team's immense credit they dealt with the situation immediately although the unfortunate lady was taken off for an examination as a precaution. Fingers crossed there was no moderate or serious injuries at all.

Our carriage was located near the front of the train, so for anyone who considers themselves a locomotive enthusiast this means you get to hear the 'thrash' from the engines. Must say, despite being a relatively modern design, the P42 does give a fairly meaty 'chatter' as it accelerates away. The Rockies were apparently passed as we slept although I managed to pull myself out of bed at 6am to enjoy the scenic sight of the Cascades. The final leg of the journey was alongside the waterfront North of Seattle and then alongside the Harbour, into a tunnel and then emerging into Seattle King Street Station bang on time.

All in all, another train journey which was extremely enjoyable and showed that Amtrak can deliver a decent experience, especially when it comes to the attitude and ability of the onboard staff. Finally I must mention our attendant, a chap called Eric, who was extremely helpful, more than willing to talk 'shop' to those who were interested in railways and carried out his duties in a professional manner.

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The moment the excitement really starts

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Taking a break at St Pauls.

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The wide open spaces of Montana.

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Some kind of Gargoyle in the Restaurant car!

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You get to see plenty of this on the way

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And a lovely old steam loco at Havre MT

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The signal clears and its time to get back onboard.

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Me and the Squeakie in the observation car

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Waking up to far better scenery

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Journeys end at Seattle
 
Thanks for the report. In your opinion, which is the nicer CHI to West Coast trip - the EB or the CZ?
 
I'd say on what I saw the Zephyr has the edge when it comes to the scenery. The climb out of Denver, the ascent up the Moffat Tunnel which concluded with a collective 'wow' as the terrain changed from a rocky environment into a fully blown snow covered ski resort will remain with me forever. This was then followed with a few hours through the valley and then some pretty stunning rock formations in Utah. I bailed out at SLC, but I hear the scenery further down the line is impressive too.

The Empire builder is hamstrung somewhat by the fact the 'nice part' is mainly during darkness where as the Zephyr the main scenery is during the day, even during winter. However, during the height of summer and the longer days it would be interesting to see how the Cascades and Rockies fayre. Has anyone on here traveled on the EB during this period?
 
Thanks for the report, glad you had a good trip. I've taken the EB westward and the CZ eastward, but I think I need to reverse it to get the best scenery.
 
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