Empire Builder at Christmastime?

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Beth Lindsey

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I'm a grad student in Seattle. My family lives in Pennsylvania. Normally, for the holidays, I head home from around Dec. 18th - Jan 2nd. This year, for a variety of reasons, we're having our Christmas celebration in Milwaukee, where my sister is currently living. Because of her work schedule, it doesn't make sense for me to arrive in Milwaukee earlier than the 23rd or 24th. This leaves me with some extra time at the beginning of my break, which led me to think, "Why not take Amtrak to Milwaukee instead of flying?" (I'd still fly back to Seattle at the end of the trip).

I have some concerns, though. I've never taken a long train trip in the US. Also, this train would be through the mountains at a time when there's snow. This leads me to some of my questions:

Does the Empire Builder get snowed in frequently? What are its delays typically like at that time of year? (Is there a website with that type of information that I can access somewhere? A quick search didn't turn one up for me, but I might be using the wrong terms.) Does anyone have any strong impressions of what the Empire Builder is like in general at the immediately-pre-christmas time of year?

Do you advise for or against taking a trip of this length (43 hours, supposedly) by myself? I'd be in a seat, can't really afford to get a sleeper by myself. (My boyfriend thinks I should wait a couple years, until we can take a long trip together at some point.) My main reason for thinking of doing this now is that I've got the time.

Thanks in advance for your input,

Beth
 
I can only answer one of your questions as I was on this train a few weeks ago. 43 hours wasn't really all that bad on the train. I wasn't sure what to expect when I did this(was my first time), I went coach for the first 24 hours. The seats were beyond comfy. I don't know how it is during christmas, but I had the seat next to me free too, so sleeping wasn't bad. On my trip it filled up around Minneapolis, but that's the last morning, so sleeping isn't that much of an issue by that point.

If you have the means, you can always do what I did, and buy two tickets, I spent the money for a roomette for the second day of the trip(24 hours) switching around Havre or Glasgow. I may have been able to do both days in the coach afterwards though, but I highly recommend the roomette if it's cheap on your days of travel(I hear some people get decent cheap upgrades, probably all random).

Also do it now, too! It'd be nice to do it again in the future, but it's a great ride. I too had some extra time and wanted to try it out, I didn't regret it. If you're a grad student you're probably around the same age as me, so you know where I'm coming from.

Also, there's no time like the present, especially with the current federal hostilities towards train travel.

:lol:
 
As for the weather concerns, you shouldn't really worry. The chances of a train getting "snowed in" are very low. Odds are pretty good that the train will still operate and arrive on time even if the weather is not all that great.
 
Aloha

After reading your description you may not like thr traveling by coach or the scenery, but I am sure you will regret not trying the trip, and you probaly love it.
 
You might get a better chance to upgrade to sleeper class by asking the conductor once you're aboard on train. Best days of the week would be in middle of the week when the demand is low. Other choice would be a day before departure, check on the Amtrak online reservation to see if there's rooms available. If you think the price is a very good deal, call 800 number and ask to purchase sleeper room since you already have the fare ticket.
 
As guest_JeffW indicated, 43 hours really isn't that long on a train. You're much more comfortable, IMO, than you are in either a car or a plane. Guest is also correct in that the train fills up as it travels east.

regarding the weather problems, the train has only been seriously (note the use of that term) delayed once in the past two years, and that was due to a severe snowstorm in the Great Plains (Dakota, I think). The landlord RRs will be the Burlington Northern from Seattle to Saint Paul, then the Canadian Pacific east from there to Chicago. Both of these railroads have been the most cooperative with Amtrak in getting the trains over the route in a punctual fashion. This brings up one more topic that I make sure to mention to all first time train riders: The freight RRs can make or break your Amtrak trip, because they own the tracks outright. This is very different than what many people are accustomed to. The frieght RR's attitude towards Amtrak can have a direct bearing as to was sort of priority your train will be given in the traffic control "pecking order."Some RR's can be very hostile to Amtrak's train over their rails (the Union Pacific, which handles the Coast Starlight, is one of the most hostile, and the cause for many of the Amtrak horror stories you may have heard from others in Seattle. U.P. doesn't want any passenger trains over their rails, and making Amtrak look bad is just one way of achieveing that goal), however, that will not be the case here. The Burlington puts forth a proficient effort in expediting Amtrak over their rails - just don't expect impeccable timekeeping. you should have quite the experience. I'd really encourage you to get a roomette for at least one night, too, as I have had much better experience sleeping in a supine position versus a reclining position. Having a shower available is a nice amenity as well.

Another thing I've also doscovered is that your perspective and attitude can have a direct effect on your train trip. I've come across people riding the same train where one was having a great trip and the other thought it was a terrible trip. So, personal perspective matters. Don't beleive all of the horror stories, as they generally don't apply to this particular train.

Enjoy your trip. I've taken several trips on this route, and can tell from personal experience that it is one of Amtrak's best performers.
 
Thanks for all your comments. It's good to know that the weather is not too much of a danger. A few hours delay will not make much difference, but a few days could seriously impact the holidays. :)

Unfortunately, I really don't think I could afford to pay for a roomette for even one of the nights. So I guess I just have to make up my mind how I feel about sleeping in a recliner for two nights. (If I decide to do the trip, I probably will look into upgrading right before leaving -- it seems like a good option, thanks to those of you who mentioned it!) I do think the train experience would be a good one to have, and it sounds like Amtrak is a really good experience for a lot of people.
 
I think taking the train is a wonderful idea. I am roughly the same age (24) and have been riding trains at least once every two years since elementary school. The Empire Builder was actually my first long-distance train, I have done that route once since, and thoroughly enjoyed it both times. I think the scenery is amazing, especially going through the Rockies in Glacier National Park, Puget sound, and the serene openness of the plains. I have never done the line in the winter time, though have always thought it would be amazing to see all the snow. One of the things I enjoy most about train travel is the chance to meet many interesting people. From my experience there tends to be a fair amount of young people traveling that train as well. I would also strongly recommend eating in the dining car for at least one night, it is quite an experience and the food is very good, also another chance to meet people. If you do upgrade to a sleeper, then all of your meals are included in the price of the ticket. Though I have never done an overnight in coach, it is very doable, I have talked with many passengers, even elderly folks, who have no problems at all with sleeping in coach. The chairs are quite wide with plenty of leg-room, seemingly much larger and more comfortable than first class on the airlines I have seen (though I have never flown first class). One last advantage to this train is the recent on-board upgrades including spruced up equipment, more menu options, and a wine and cheese tasting for sleeper passengers. This train, overall, tends to run close to on-time, but I would still advise, as others have, to plan for delays and to take them in stride. One last piece of advice would be to definitely take the trip now, with the attitude and climate about Amtrak and its funding, you never know how much longer you will have these opportunities.
 
For coach class, Amtrak provide a travel-size pillow. I recommend to bring your favorite pillow and a blanket. Most people wear sweat pants or comfortable clothes to sleep at night. Seats are very comfortable, similiar to first class on airplanes. Hey, it comes with legrest!
 
Beth Lindsey said:
(If I decide to do the trip, I probably will look into upgrading right before leaving -- it seems like a good option, thanks to those of you who mentioned it!)
Actually one usually gets the cheapest upgrade price from the conductor, once you are on board the train. Usually, unless bookings for sleepers are way down, one will get charged more trying to upgrade at the station before departure.

And the conductor can still accept credit cards from you onboard the train, to pay for the upgrade. So ask about a 1 night upgrade and a 2 night upgrade to see what if anything you can afford.

Remember if you do get a sleeper, then your meals are free in the dining car. That can save money for you. Even if you don't get a sleeper, as others have mentioned, try to take a least one meal in the dining car. They take credit cards too, as long as you have a photo id with you.
 
I wouldn't worry about travelling by coach for 2 nights. The seats are comfortable and maybe if youre lucky, even have 2 seats to stretch out on.

I recently spent 5 straight nights in the coaches and did just fine (remember to bring shampoo and other soaps and stuff). If all else fails, bring a blanket and pillow to the lounge car and try your luck sleeping on the ground or they're classic bench seats. It worked for me!! It got pretty chilly though. :D
 
I'd understood that trains would be pretty crowded at Christmastime, so I was thinking being able to find two empty seats together wasn't likely. Any thoughts about that?
 
You're probably right Beth, but finding a pair of seats even around Christmas is not unheard of. The only thing you have to keep in mind is that if you do find a pair of seats and fall asleep across both of them, you might be woken up and asked to share with a fellow passenger during one of the station stops at night if the train becomes short on seats. Regardless, the seats are wide and comfortable, even as single seats. I am a big guy (6'0 and 220lbs) and can still sleep comfortably in a coach seat next to another passenger.
 
As gallja02 said, you really don't know how much longer you'll have this oppty. One of the reasons why I made sure to finally do this 3 weeks ago. I want to do it again actually, See the snow and all! Maybe I'll make a special trip of it.

Some people on board got a roommette for really really cheap. I paid above average. But I did hear stories where someone paid less than what I would on the Silver Star when sleepers are empty. I don't know the secret. Try the conductor thing like someone else said I supposed. I was wondering myself.

The last morning out of minneapolis it looked like they were upgrading folks to the remaining roomettes(dayrooms). I want to know how much they paid, has to be a good deal. And I supposed you could nap then too!

I was surprised that I met some great folks too. After my first meal in the diner I ended up having every meal with the same few folks.

But enough of my babbling. If the EB is the best, I wanted to try the others, but I really love this route. The 44 hours go by quicker than a 5 hour flight!! As someone living in Florida, the countryside is beyond amazing to me. I don't know how much you are used to.
 
Around Christmas time during the winter should be a nice time to travel on the Empire Builder. If you are going, say, during the week of Christmas and/or New Year's days, you should expect the train to be full--or nearly so. As others have said, it is extremely rare for Amtrak to get snowed in, but I have seen instances where it was too cold along the line (far below zero) when BNSF has withdrawn permission to run. However, it has been several years since Amtrak has done that. Most of the time, the train sails right through--as the Empire Builder has be doing for more than75 years (including under the GN). As far as sightseeing is concerned, you do have to be concerned about the shortness of daylight hours during winter months. You will be leaving Seattle in late afternoon, it will be dark during the crossing of the Washington Cascades (including the 8-mile Cascade Tunnel) (If you are on the Portland section, you will be traveling through most of the Columbia River Gorge in the dark), but the sun will be coming up as the train passes through Glacier National Park. In winter, it should be like riding through a Christmas card scene. Westbound, the train traversed the park in the early evening in the dark, but you will be waking up to a sunrise over the Washington Cascades enroute to Seattle (or through the Columbia Gorge on the Portland section). West of Spokane the train is actually two trains; at Spokane (going east), the trains join together. The Seattle section has the diner (which doubles as a lounge) but no sightseer/lounge; the Portland section has the sightseer/lounge but no formal diner (light meals can be purchased in the lounge).

The Empire Builder has just be renovated and made more comfortable and with more anemities.
 
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