Coast Starlight #14 LAUS-SEA Feb 01-02

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EMDF9A

Lead Service Attendant
Joined
Oct 24, 2011
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269
Needing a mid-winter train fix getaway, I found a great low-bucket roomette from LAUS to Seattle ($333) and I was off on my adventure.

As seen on AU, I had a couple glitches in getting things started. I cannot have a lower room because it makes me sick, and I was originally booked into room 11. A call to AMTRAK's reservations and a very helpful and pleasant gentleman re-booked me into room 07 of the 1431 car. Second hitch... I didnt make my reservations on Hotels.com in time to get a room at the AU preferred hotel, the Metro Plaza. After another AU inquirery, I called the hotel directly and they did have a room... two queen beds rather than the single king.. but heck, I was just staying overnight. Either one works.

I am a non-revenue flier when I do fly. (My brother is a flight attendant for Southwest) and so I knew I needed to head to the airport early. I was thankful I did. TSA was being particularly unhelpful in Seattle on Thursday. AT 4:00 PM there was only one security line open and people were backed up to the ticket counters. It took over an hour to get through. Fortunately my flight was for 6:15 so I had plenty of time to check in and have a Manhattan in the lounge. The flights to LA (change in Oakland) were uneventful. Getting from the gate to the Flybus pick up area was very convenient, and within 20 minutes the bus was there.

The driver, however, was a surly large black woman. She reminded me of Starr Jones with a bit of Rue Paul mixed in for attitude. She was a bit frustrated because the route she usually takes leaving LAX had been closed by the police and she had to detour. Traffic was heavy and it took an hour to get from LAX to LAUS at 10:30 PM. Upon arrival at LAUS the security agent gave me excellent directions to get to the hotel "You go down the ramp and to the left. Go under the tracks. You will come to a large room with lots of lounge chairs. Go through the middle of the chairs and out the door. Thats Alameda. Go right one black to Ceasar Chavez and you will see the hotel right behind the Chevron station" A brisk 10 minute walk and I was in the lobby of the Metro Plaza.

As I walked into the Metro Plaza the first thing that struck me was the odor. It was like a combination of kimchee, Chinese food, and dirty socks. I sure hope my room didnt smell like that. Check-in was swift and I was soon upstairs in room 418. Thankfully the lobby odor did not make its way upstairs. The room was what I was expecting for a $109 a night property in LA. The furnishings were worn and dated, but they were clean. The carpet was new, and the tiled bathroom appeared recently re-furbished and it was SPOTLESS (and I know how to inspect a bathroom) A hot shower and I was ready for bed. I asked for an 8AM wake-up call. Despite the traffic noise outside, I was asleep quickly and the next thing I know the phone was ringing with my wake up call.

Breakfast was at Phillippes. This is my first time there and I just LOVED the atmosphere. I was also fairly impressed with how neat and clean they kept it. My "Hostess" as they call them was dressed in a uniform right out of yesteryear, with hairnet,apron and pointed headpiece. Service was slow... but I think thats part of the atmosphere. I had French Toast with bacon and coffee. It was delicious!

After breakfast I was back to the hotel to freshen up and check out. and then the quick walk to LAUS.

Arriving through the main doors into LAUS is just a spectacular view. The beautiful art-deco station is well maintained and kept clean. I walked toward the TRAXX bar and was warmly received by station services attendant Eric and was offered a comfortable chair and table to await the red-caps. I decided to treat myself to a Bloody Mary as I waited. It was tasty but nothing spectacular... though relatively cheap.

Within ten minutes three carts with red-caps arrived outside the side door next to TRAXX. Five passengers to a cart and the drove us through the station and out to Track 10 and right to the doors of our respective sleeper cars. I was in car 1431 and was met at the door by my attendant Brian. He introduced himself, checked me in and offered to assist with my luggage. I only had a single overnight bag that I was taking to my roomette so I declined the offer. Soon I was upstairs and settled into room 07.

In very short order I heard the two blasts from the locomotive horn and very gently we started to roll out of the station. As we rolled past the jail and toward the LA River the conductor, dining car LSA, Parlour Car LSA and Cafe LSA all come on and did their "Welcome Aboard" spiel. As this was happening, Brian made his way through the car introducing himself and assisting passengers in becoming familiar with their rooms and life aboard the train. He also passed out bottles of cheap sparkling wine (NO it really isnt Champagne... its Califirnia Sparkling wine. There is a difference). During his stop in my room I slipped him a $20 and asked him two favors. 1) Make lunch reservations for 11:30 in the diner and dinner reservations for 7:30 in the Parlour Car. 2) turn my bed down during the station stop at Jack London. He gave an affirmative nod. I was pleased.

As we sped toward Burbank I headed to the Parlour Car and met Maureen our LSA there. She was a brash and very friendly service-oriented former bartender from Boston. She hasd been with AMTRAK for 3 years on the extra board and loves her job. It shows. She was, throughout the trip, attentive and pleasant. I hope this is the direction AMTRAK is moving and getting rid of the old stale, "dead wood" working out their time to a pension attendants. Maureen poured me a fresh-brewed cup of the vital fluid of life (coffee) and I took a seat in the swivel chairs to watch LA roll by.

Shortly after leaving Burbank, Jeff, the LSA in the diner announced he was going through the train to get lunch reservations. Since I had asked Brian to make mine, I wasnt paying much attention. Jeff started in the sleepers and moved back through the train. as he passed through the Parlour Car he stopped next to me and told me that Brian had made my lunch and dinner arrangements already. I was pleased.

The remainder of the morning was spent drinkning coffee in the parlour, meeting people, and watching the scenery. As we were arriving into Santa Barbara Jeff called the 11:30 lunch reservations.

Heading back to the diner I was seated in an ocean-side booth with a young woman. We were joined shortly by another lady and a gentleman. I chose the veggie burger (and added cheese and bacon... you dont have to be a vegetarian to enjoy this option.) It is easily one of the better items on the lunch menu. Andrew, my server was prompt, polite and professional. Another breath of fresh air in the on-board crew!

Lunch was a relaxed and pleasant combination of food and conversation. Exactly what a train trip should be.

After lunch I returned to the Parlour Car for a little while, but was feeling a little sleepy. I returned to my room and pressed the call button for Brian. I asked that he wake me up prior to the wine tasting. He agreed and I was quickly curled up next to the window and nodding off to dream-land.

True to his word, Brian woke me up 15 minutes to the start of the wine tasting. After a quick freshen-up, I was heading back to the Parlour car. I initially chose a seat in the banquette with a cocktail table, but Maureen came by to say that all those wishing to partake had to be at the tables. I took my cue and moved to join a nice couple and a single lady at their table. (a note to folks who travel this train frequently and are concerned about the attitude of the on-board crew.. No announcement was made that you had to participate in the wine tasting to be in the PPC, nor was there an exclusion of children)

My wine tasting companions turned out to be a retired SP/UP conductor who had worked this line through his career, and a teacher returning to Portland after two years in China teaching English.

The wines served were a Savignon Blanc, a Zinfandel, a Cabernet, and a Chardonnay. None of us were too impressed with any of the selections, and I was a little frustrated that they started with the white, went to the two reds and then returned to the Chardonnay. Later when I asked Maureen about it she said thats the way AMTRAK wanted it done. Well.. I guess I'll have to have ONE thing to complain about on this trip. LOL! The cheese included a Beecher's flagship from Seattle's Pike Place Market and was delicious! Actually all three were very good. Of the four wine selections, none impressed me, but the Rabbit Ridge Zin was drinkable. In true Zin style it was jammy and a note of pepper to finish.

After the wine tasting it was time for another nap. ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ.

Dinner in the Parlour Car was a delicious braised short rib. It was so tender you could cut it with a fork. It was served with a multi-grain pilaf and the standard steamed vegetables. The Zin from the wine tasting paired well with this selection. Dessert was a large chocolate creme puff with chocolate crispy sprinkles. Perfect finish.

I spent the the rest of the evening in the Parlour Car sipping Zin and talking to fellow travelers. We arrived in San Jose about 40 minutes behind schedule but had an unusually long stop there. They let us off the train for a Fresh Air break. It was a crew change point for the engineer. I met the incoming hogger and the outgoing crew (there were three outgoing.. a regular engineer, a student engneer and a supervisor) The student engineer... a rather nice young lady, had operated from Salinas to San Jose. She did a good job!

From San Jose to Jack London I rode in my roomette. As we arrived in Jack London the conductor announced that this too would be a service stop, but it would be a little abbreviated, because we would have to pull inot the yard after leaving the station to uncouple the three extra cars we had on the back (1 PV and 2 AMTRAK single levels).

When the "All Aboard" was called, I headed up to the roomette, and true to his word, Brian had my bed made up and ready for a comfortable night's slumber. Very quickly I was under the covers and nodding off. I must have been tired, even with those naps, as I remember us stopping in the yard and the HEP going off... But I sure dont remember leaving.. Or Emeryville... or anything much after that!

I guess we had a little delay in Sacramento also... but I was too busy snoring to notice.

I awoke as we were making our way up the river canyon toward Dunsmuir. Mount Shasta rose up majestically and the sun was just coming up. We were a little late, but not that much. They must of made up a lot of time after Sacramento. After we left Shasta behind us I dozed off again for a little while. But my stomach was telling me it was breakfast time. I made my way downstairs to the shower (thankfully I didn't have to wait) for a quick rinse-lather-rinse. The shower was not all that warm.. tepid at best, but at least it wasnt ice cold.

After dressing I headed back to the diner for breakfast. we were in Kalamath Falls. I was seatled with a pleasant lady who was going from KF to Seattle and had just boarded. Just as I sat down, Jeff made the announcement for "Last Call" It was 9:30. Breakfast was scrambled eggs, bacon, yukon potatoes and a croissant. Coffee an OJ went along too. Breakfast was OK, but the croissant was AWFUL! I dont know if they microwaved it to try and heat it, or put it in the convection oven, but it was hard, dry and crumbled in my hand. (Note to AMTRAK.... dont try to re-heat croissants you dont have the right equipment on board to do it right.)

As we left K Falls, Kalamath Lake was a beautiful frozen mirror, and the winter scene outside the window was exactly why I chose to take this trip.

We started our climb up the Cascades. The snow was getting deeper by the mile. When we reached Chemult, it looked like about a foot on the ground. Leaving Chemult and climbing the pass it continued to get deeper. By the time we were at Cascade Summit it looked like the unplowed areas had 3-4 feet piled up. We crested the summit and started down the west side. If you pay close attention to the trees, you know when you crest the summit. On the east side (the drier side) the primary tree you see is a Ponderosa Pine. As you move over the top, that changes to Douglas Fir and Hemlock.

I had lunch in the Parlour Car going down the pass. I chose the Beecher's Flagship Mac & Cheese. Great choice. The pasta was al-dente and the cheese sauce was delicious with a hint of pepper in the background.

I actually slept through the wine tasting on day two. When I woke up, we were coming into Portland. Brian came through and told me that he didnt want to disturb my nap so he took the liberty of making dinner reservations for me for 5:30 in the diner. I was VERY pleased.

As we pulled out of Vancouver WA (the original Vancouver) I made my way into the PPC for a cocktail. Although there were no martini glasses, Maureen did have vermouth and was able to make a decent martini. Just as I finished my libation Jeff in the Diner called for 5:30 reservations.

I was seated with 3 ladies. As luck would have it one was my breakfast companion and the other was from the previous day's wine tasting. The third was travelling coach from LA to Seattle.

We all chose something different. I had the steak, my companions had the beef ribs, salmon & chicken. My steak was prepared to a perfect medium rare. The baker was hot and fluffy and the vegetables were... well.. the standard vegetables. As we were ordering, I asked Andrew if he could do me a favor and get a glass fo the Zin from the PPC to go with my meal. Without hesitation the answer was "Of course" Very shortly Maureen showed uo with that jammy peppery liquid. I was pleased! (Note to AMTRAK... ALL your dining car crews should be so accomodating. The regulars have NEVER allowed me to do this. I found out all of these wonderful service oriented folks were under 4 years of service and were in the Extra board)

After we had finished our meal dessert was served as we were pulling into Olympia Lacey. I chose the cheesecake with blueberry sauce. One of my companions did also. One had the Mango Sorbet, and the fourth just had tea. No effort was made to hurry us along. The crew let us enjoy our meal at our pace. It was an awesome change from what I had experienced as a Trails & Rails guide the last few years when the LSA wanted you out of the diner before Olympia... and made you painfully aware of that.

As we headed into the Nelson Bennett Tunnel I was making my way back to the roomette. I was on the right side of the train so I didnt have a view of the water. We pulled into Tacoma and it was a very quick stop to unload a few folks. We were rolling again soon. As we pulled out of Tacoma Station the PA came to life as the Charlie in the Lounge car announced that they were closing, and Maureen in the PPC and Jeff in the Diner came on to thank everyone for joining them on this trip. We sped through the night and Puyallup, Sumner, Kent and Tukwila sped by. We had a red block at Black River but it was just a quick stop. Very soon we were easing our way into Seattle's King Street Station. As I stepped off the train and slipped Brian another $20 I noticed the time on the message boards. 8:14 PM. we were right on time!

Thank you Eric, Brian, Jeff, Maureen, Andrew, Charlie, and all the T&E crews that made this a very pleasant trip! I cant wait till the next time I hear "ALL ABOARD!"
 
Sounds like a great trip. Interesting that you got exemplary service from new staff from the board... guess that bodes well for the newer generation of OBS and for all of us who still want to ride LD now and then.
 
Outstanding report!! Reminded me of my trip from LAX to SEA with Pennyk, Jim Hudson, RRRich, GWager, AlanB, GG-1

and Grace. We took over the PPC for most of the trip!!
 
Thanks for sharing your trip. I'll be on CS from sac to sea next month. I hope I have your great crew.
 
I enjoyed your report. My experience through the TSA lines at Sea Tac has been similar, by far the longest time I've had to stand in line at any airport was at Sea Tac. Glad you had such a great trip!
 
Outstanding report!! Reminded me of my trip from LAX to SEA with Pennyk, Jim Hudson, RRRich, GWager, AlanB, GG-1and Grace. We took over the PPC for most of the trip!!
I had just started reading/participating in AU when you folks held The Gathering herein Seattle. How I wish I had come aboard a month sooner!
 
I enjoyed your report. My experience through the TSA lines at Sea Tac has been similar, by far the longest time I've had to stand in line at any airport was at Sea Tac. Glad you had such a great trip!
I hate to admit that I fly out of SeaTac every 3 weeks or so. I have not seen the lines back up this bad & take so long since shortly after the TSA was formed following 9/11. My worst TSA line/experience up until now has been SAN.
 
Sounds like a great trip. Interesting that you got exemplary service from new staff from the board... guess that bodes well for the newer generation of OBS and for all of us who still want to ride LD now and then.
Indeedit does bode well for the new generation of AMTRAK employees AND for all of us who expect and deserve great service aboard the train.
 
Thank you all for your kind responses. I received notice in my Email of the responses and a private message from roadman. I thought I was replying individually to each message, but Alanb informs me that the system doesnt work that way & only AU staff saw my messages, so I re-responded here in public... except to Roadman, I havent figured out how to do that yet.

Yes, Roadman, we were on the same train. We probably chatted in the PPC and didnt even know it. Where did you de-train?
 
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