California Zephyr from SLC to Chicago

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Bart Burk

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I will be flying to a conference in Salt Lake City in May and am considering taking the California Zephyr back to Chicago. I've never taken Amtrak on such a long trip before. Anyone else had experience with that trip. What are your impressions of Amtrak in general?
 
Definintely go for a roomette, even if you are alone. The privacy and included meals make it worthwhile. Not to mention not having to use coach restrooms.
 
It is a wonderful trip. Maybe you could book a roomette from Denver to Chicago. That would be one overnight and the cost would be less than having the entire journey. The trip from SLC to Denver is during mostly daylight hours and the scenery is incredible. Make sure you head to the Sightseer Lounge Car for most of the day and even if you do coach all the way, try at least one meal in the diner, Breakfast and lunch are priced fairly reasonably. Dinner, while good is very overpriced.

Enjoy the trip. Once you have experienced train travel on such a magnificent route, you'll be wanting more.
 
You will love the scenery. Amtrak can be a hit or miss situation. Don't plan on getting to Chicago on time. A sleeper is the only way to go. The Attendants are usually very good, food is good. Enjoy your trip!
 
Going from SLC east, head to the observation car as soon as it's light out, if you want to see the mountains (which you should). The observation car will fill up fast. Also, the train will seem half-empty when you get on, but will start filling up as you get to the ski areas west of Denver.

Some people have a lot of trouble sleeping in coach, others have no trouble. You probably want to bring sleep mask, earplugs, the usual things you would use for sleeping on an airplane or a bus. Others recommend clothespins to make sure the curtains stay shut! If you use a CPAP machine, *you can actually plug it in on the train and use it*, which is awesomely superior to other methods of overnight transport.

There's usually enough time to step out on the platform and look around a little at Grand Junction (two former classic railway station buildings, sadly disused and locked up) and Denver (Union Station) -- make sure you get back on well before departure time at Denver, though. At GJ they'll usually yell at you to get back on when it's time.

Amtrak often runs an hour or two late; expect that. More than that is unusual, though not unheard of.

Breakfast is reasonably priced, much nicer than what you can get in the cafe, and oddly, usually not very crowded. Amtrak takes reservations for lunch and dinner; breakfast is first-come first-served. If you eat breakfast normally, I would definitely get breakfast in the dining car both mornings. Dinner can get quite pricey.

Amtrak's menus are here: http://www.amtrak.com/servlet/ContentServer?c=Page&pagename=am%2FLayout&cid=1241305537990

Meal times in the dining car are here:

http://www.amtrak.com/servlet/ContentServer?c=Page&pagename=am%2FLayout&cid=1248539615772

You can decide in advance for each meal whether you want the dining car food, the cafe food (convection-oven reheated fast food material, though I actually quite like the hot dogs), or whether you want to pack your own cold meals.

When comparing prices, please do note that the roomette price includes meals in the dining car; in your case they'd include breakfast, lunch, dinner, and breakfast and lunch again. The roomette usually still costs more than coach + meals, but it depends not only on what the roomette charge is on the day you're travelling, but also on what you're planning to eat! Roomettes are sometimes relatively cheap from SLC to CHI, though the price depends on how close they are to sold out, just like airline pricing.

SLC to Chicago is a long trip, longer than my first trip in coach. Try it out, see whether you like it. A number of people find this trip to be too long to do in coach, others think it's fine. Almost everyone says it's a very nice trip in a roomette. It's certainly slower than taking an airplane, though.

If you decide that you really don't want to spend two nights on the train, it's possible to take the train from SLC to Denver and an airplane from Denver to Chicago. There's a "SkyRide" bus direct from Denver Union Station to the Denver Airport. I don't particularly recommend this (I don't fly), but it's possible, and I notice that most flights from SLC to Chicago make you change planes in Denver anyway. It may also make it cheaper to get a roomette (SLC-Denver on Amtrak is much less busy than Denver-Chicago, and so has lower prices).

Just for completeness, it's also possible to fly from SLC to Denver and take the train from Denver to Chicago, but then you miss all the scenery on the train (overnight most of the way) and it's probably more expensive (Denver-Chicago on Amtrak is busier than SLC-Denver and so has higher prices).

Anyway, that's probably more information than you wanted!
 
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You will love the scenery. Amtrak can be a hit or miss situation. Don't plan on getting to Chicago on time. A sleeper is the only way to go. The Attendants are usually very good, food is good. Enjoy your trip!
A sleeper is NOT the only way to go. Not everyone can afford a sleeper.
 
I've been in coach many times on the CZ. The most scenic section is just east of Glenwood Springs (Glenwood Canyon). Just east of the Glenwood Canyon the westbound CZ meets the eastbound.

It is an impressive sight coming down into Denver from Winterpark/Fraser.

Our last trip east on the CZ we got off in Burlington IA along the Mississippi and rented a car from there which worked out well for us.
 
Thanks for all the replies! I was tempted not to try it because a friend really had told me bad things about Amtrak, but you are all making it sound like a tolerable/enjoyable trip!
 
Thanks for all the replies! I was tempted not to try it because a friend really had told me bad things about Amtrak, but you are all making it sound like a tolerable/enjoyable trip!
If you want to read more reviews you can check out the travelogues/trip reviews part of the forum. I have basically been live blogging my CZ trip this week and you can see my post and the link to my blog there.
 
Back when we were poor, we traveled coach wherever we went. We survived it ok. Now days I take a sleeper or I just don't go by train. Superliner coach seats are just great, so don't worry about traveling coach. I never really feel like eating three meals a day so my free meals are somewhat wasted. Sitting on a train all day, you really don't need three meals. The lounge car usually has light meals for sale like sandwiches, pizza, etc.and drinks. If you want to have one meal in the diner then do breakfast. It's reasonably priced and with a full breakfast you don't need lunch. Plan to hop off at Grand Jct, Glenwood Springs and Winter Park and breath in some mountain air. Check out the new Denver Union Station.
 
Coach is really comfortable. If I didn't require a flat surface to sleep, we'd probably take Coach on most trips. The seats have a ton of leg room, and there's a leg rest and foot rest. You also get a tray that moves forward and backward, so you can leave the tray out when you get out of your seat. The windows are large and wide, so you'll have a great view of the scenery on both sides of the train. If you're in an aisle seat, you can always go to the lounge. I recommend doing that anyway, since the windows are even bigger.

There is food for purchase on the lower level of the lounge car. If you want a traditional meal, the lead service attendant will come to the Coaches to take reservations for the Dining Car after they get the sleeper passengers' reservations. The meals in the Dining Car are a little expensive, though, so we usually bring our own food and/or buy food in the lounge car when we travel in Coach.

Don't let anyone tell you only "poor" people or "dirty" people ride in Coach. That is simply not true. Some people prefer it because it's more social and has more room to move around. Also, some people are frugal and have no problem sleeping in a recliner overnight. We've met some very nice folks who ride in Coach for a variety of reasons. During our past trips, we mostly encountered college students, Amish and Mennonite travelers, families, and couples of all ages. I've also met single passengers who were traveling to visit their boyfriend or girlfriend.

I hope you'll book the trip, and I really hope you enjoy it. :)
 
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The little store in the Grand Junction depot also sells guide books for your route from Salt Lake to Denver, and from Denver to Chicago. The guide books are also sold in the museum store inside the Glenwood Springs station, but this is a short stop and you may not have enough time to get inside to shop -- you certainly don't want to be left at the station!
 
Just two main things to remember:

(1) Do NOT expect to arrive or depart on time. (Sadly.) The train might be on time. It might not. It usually isn't more than 3-4 hours late, though.

(2) If you have trouble sleeping in an airplane or on an intercity bus due to all the people... you will have trouble sleeping in coach on the train too. If you sleep fine on the plane, you'll probably sleep even better on the train.
 
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You might look into a roomette from Denver to Cresent city IA. That would be all of your night time hours and includes dinner and breakfast

There was a student on my trip on the CZ that had made many peanut butter and jelly sandwiches for his trip. Bring many of your favorite snacks and drinks non alc. while in coach. I spent all my daylight hours in the observation car. Bring a camera for everything West of Denver

Be outgoing and you will meet many new people that makes the time fly by. I brought a power bar to plug in all my toys. Cell service in most towns. I brought 4 books and a kindle and never opened any of them.

It will be your own adventure
 
I've been in coach many times on the CZ. The most scenic section is just east of Glenwood Springs (Glenwood Canyon). Just east of the Glenwood Canyon the westbound CZ meets the eastbound.

It is an impressive sight coming down into Denver from Winterpark/Fraser.

Our last trip east on the CZ we got off in Burlington IA along the Mississippi and rented a car from there which worked out well for us.
Tom Fuller... We're traveling Colo to Burlington IA and also need to rent car there. Are there car rentals at the Amtrak Station? How did you arrange this? Thanks!
 
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While I like a sleeper for overnight travel, many people do just fine overnight in coach. For full day trips, hubby and I always rode coach before his medical problems started, and it has its advantages just as sleeper does. The car is spacious and you can see out both sides of the train in coach. There is plenty of legroom; nothing like coach on a plane. You can bring food or buy breakfast or lunch for around $10-12 in the dining car, and the portions are ample. Dinner is more expensive.

If your dates are at all flexible, check amsnag.net to compare prices on different dates. They can vary a lot depending on demand.

The CZ west of Denver is my dream trip. Enjoy your journey!
 
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