Cross-Country by Amtrak, August of 2004

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Hello, Everyone! I discovered this Forum a few days ago, and it looks like a great place to discuss Amtrak trains and adventures. This looks like a good time to get on board, so... Here goes.

Since 2004, I've enjoyed a number of adventure trips on Amtrak. The first of them was in August '04. I'd just read an illustrated book of Great American Rail Journeys, and was looking for the chance to do something like that myself. The opportunity came when my daughter was invited by her cousins in Southern California to go camping with them for a week. I figured the best way to get her down there was via the Coast Starlight, and then maybe I'd pass some time Riding the Rails until it was time to bring her back home. First thought was SouthWest Chief to Colorado, Bus to Denver, and California Zephyr to Sacramento.

But of course long bus rides are no fun. I saw that by taking the SWC as far as Galesburg I could catch the westbound CZ the same day. But being that close, it would be a shame not to see Chicago. Transferring there would require an overnight stay, so perhaps THAT could be done on the move as well? Indeed. Here's how it ultimately worked out.

I purchased a North America Rail Pass, good for Amtrak and VIA (and requiring at least one ride on each), for coach fare anywhere (including connecting Busses, but excluding the Acela and the Auto Train, which do not have any simple coach fare accommodations). The itinerary is selected in advance, tickets can be picked up at any staffed station, and modifications or additions (within the 30-day window of validity) can be made any time... by telephone and then picking up the new tickets at any station.

My "rules of engagement" were as follows: Travel light... one small bag (the kind airlines used to give away for free) with a couple of changes of clothing, plus travel essentials including maps, schedules, and route guides. Never leave the Rail System until the end of the trip. No hotels, all overnights on board, and everything by coach.

We begin on "Day Zero". My wife drove us to our home station at Martinez in the morning to catch the Coast Starlight southbound. Great scenery along Carquinez Straight and San Francisco Bay, then up the Salinas Valley. Due to delays it was dark by the time we got to the Ocean at Vandenberg AFB, and coming into LAX we had missed the last connecting train South. They gave us a bus which took us to Irvine, with a 2:00 AM arrival by taxi at my brother's place.

The real adventure begins on Day 1. My brother drove me to the Irvine Station at 8:00 AM, where I caught the first southbound train to San Diego. Then rode the trolley system (Blue Line) north (near the Mission, which was then end-of-the-line) and then south (to the International Border at San Ysidro), and back to Amtrak in time for the noon train to LAX. Beautiful running right along the Ocean in both directions, and lovely subtropical gardens in San Diego (especially along the River on the north part of the Blue Line... now Green Line there) and San Juan Capistrano.

In LAX, there was time to explore Union Station and ride the Gold Line to Pasadena, following the historic route of the Santa Fe run to Chicago, and seeing the classic little station there. That evening I boarded the SouthWest Chief for the through run to Chicago. In Fullerton, my coach filled up with a choir of Gospel Singers on their way to a convention in Wisconsin. They wanted to sing all evening, so I did my best to join in. The rest of the train was filled with Boy Scouts on their way to (and from) camping out at the Philmont Ranch near Raton, NM. There were fine views of downtown LA on departing, and a glance at a working Steam Locomotive parked in the yards near Redondo Junction. Then cutting through extensive industrial areas east of LA, and finally climbing Cajon Pass in the dark, with the train's headlights lighting up the canyon walls as we wound our way steadily to the summit.

At Victorville, there were thunderstorms and flash-floods, but it didn't bother the train at all. Late at night, I awoke as we were crossing the Colorado River into Arizona. By daybreak on Day 2, I saw an Elk (with full antlers) standing in a meadow, watching our train. We were in the high forests of Northern Arizona, following the historic Route 66. After Flagstaff, we crossed the Painted Desert and rugged volcanic scenery in New Mexico. From Gallup to Albuquerque we had a guide on board in the lounge car who explained about the country we were passing through... several Indian Pueblos with old churches and distinctive round outdoor ovens in the courtyards.

At Albuquerque we stopped for servicing and had time to walk around on the platform. Senator Kerry was in town for his Presidential Campaign, and we were parked right next to the campaign train... blocking it, in fact, so all the reporters and staff had to walk through our train to get back to theirs. The Secret Service Men were patrolling the area, carefully dressed, with sunglasses, and looking generally suspicious. I fit the same description, staring back at them as they stared at me. This seemed to worry them since they knew I was not part of their Team.

That afternoon, we climbed into the Sangre de Christo Mountains at Gloriosa Pass, followed the Pecos River for a ways, and emerged onto the beginnings of the Great Prairies. We continued North along the base of the mountains, through Las Vegas NM and on toward Raton. We saw some Antelope among the low rolling hills. Also a Buffalo, but it was on somebody's ranch. At Raton, all the Boy Scouts exited, but even more got on board after finishing their own week at the Ranch. We climbed Raton Pass into Colorado by twilight, and emerging at Trinidad we could see the Spanish Peaks (over 14,000 ft) by the last glow of sunset, and Pike's Peak clear but distant to the North. Then off into the night across the prairies of Eastern Colorado and into Kansas.

Daybreak of Day 3 found us in the yards at Kansas City (Kansas), then at the historic station in Kansas City Missouri. Good views towards downtown. To my California eyes, the city had a distinctly "eastern" appearance. Then we crossed the Missouri River on a long bridge with great views, and cut diagonally across the State through mostly forested land. There were no roads near the tracks for most of this stretch, giving a very remote feel to the countryside. Then across another river into Iowa, with views of Nauvoo Illinois on the bluff across the way. We approached the Mississippi River, first as swampy land and backwaters, then with a clear view across the River. At Madison, there was a Riverboat Casino tied up at the docks. A few miles upstream, we crossed the River on a heavy swing-bridge that held both highway and the tracks. At Galesburg there is a nice steam-engine on display, and lots of rail traffic including coal trains that we don't see much of in California. Then across beautiful farmland and on to the Chicago Area.

There were fine views of downtown as we approached through the yards. Then we turned right, crossed the Chicago River, then backed up North into Union Station. This way the train was poised for departure. At that time, the same train-set continued on as the Capitol Limited, which of course helped assure making that connection. There was time then to explore Union Station, including the Great Hall, which was like nothing I'd ever seen before. I bought some Metra tickets that I hoped to use later in the trip, then prepared to board the CL to Washington DC.

That evening we headed east across Indiana and Ohio, with some good views back at Chicago as we were pulling out, then lots of burned-out industry... steel mills and such... a few brief views of the Lake, and finally open farmland. Crossing Ohio there was a great Thunderstorm that lasted for mile after mile. And finally off to sleep again, my third night sleeping on Coach. I'd purchased a souvenir Amtrak Blanket for $10 from the snack bar on boarding in LA. By swapping daytime shoes for evening sandals (when I knew I wouldn't be walking to other cars for the night) and loosening my belt, leaning back the seat and using the little pillows they provided, it proved quite comfortable. Certainly better than a lot of places I've had to sleep over the years.

On Day 4 we arrived at Pittsburgh just before daybreak. There were views of the three great Rivers there, then we followed the River south-east of town, winding our way endlessly up into the Appalachian Mountains. That afternoon we descended steeply into Cumberland Md, and followed the Potomac River down to Harper's Ferry (at the junction of Maryland, Virginia, and West Virginia). Traces of the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal were visible as we crossed over back into Maryland. Then we began to see the MARC commuter trains and eventually the Washington Metro system before pulling into Union Station, just a couple of blocks from the U.S. Capitol.

Because of delays, it was too late to make the hoped-for round trip to Richmond Virginia. Instead, I rode the Washington Metro that evening, to Falls Church and Fairfax Virginia, and past the Reagan National Airport to Alexandria and Franconia-Springfield, then on the Yellow Line down to Huntington, then across the Potomac River Bridge with great views of the City. Transferring to the Red Line at Chinatown, I returned to Union Station. Then I continued touring the Station, again with its Great Hall, and great views out the front door towards the Capitol, and especially the Food Court. It was nice to have a change of pace from Train Food after all those days. On board, my choice would always be a hot dog and Pepsi for breakfast (gives a taste of caffeine without risking any hot spills), a hot dog or bratwurst for lunch, and dinner in the dining car (beef, chicken or lamb, plus coffee, and their excellent cheesecake with strawberry topping for dessert). Here in the Station I enjoyed Chinese Noodles and Rice, and a very generous grilled Hamburger.

About 10:00 that night I caught the overnight Regional to Boston (Train 66). A bit of culture shock here, sleep-deprived on this tiny lonely train making all the stops along the Corridor. Some street character was playing "conductor" and tried to collect our tickets, but nobody gave him any. On the longer stops I was able to walk quickly through the Stations at Philadelphia and New York City. By daybreak the toilets were overflowing, and I resolved "never again". Meaning next time I travel the NEC it will be either by daylight or else in Business Class.

Daybreak on Day 5 was along the Coastline of Connecticut, beautiful views of wetlands and estuaries and towns and open water, worth the trip in its own right. With a morning arrival in Boston (South Station), there was time to ride the Red Line to Ashmont, then the Mattapan "High Speed Line" (a classic PCC streetcar still in operation) through an old cemetery, past vast wetlands and a little harbor, and cutting through urban back-yards. Then back to South Station to begin the return trip on the Lake Shore Limited. We headed across Massachusetts (great views of Boston and the Charles River on departure) and the Berkshire Hills to Albany/Rensselaer, where we joined up with the train from New York City. Then on into the night across upper New York State.

Day 6 began with crossing the farmlands of Ohio and Indiana, then arriving at Chicago. There was time to ride the Metra, northbound out of Union Station on the Fox Lake line, through Glenview as far as Northbrook. This is the same route used by the Empire Builder. Then back to Union Station, and onto the California Zephyr. Late afternoon we crossed the Mississippi River by Burlington, with views of a dramatic new cable-stay bridge for the highway there. Then up a steep hill through town (the same hill used by Westinghouse in developing Air Brakes for trains), and out onto the Prairies.

Day 7 we approached Denver and the Rocky Mountains, climbing dramatically through remote country up to Winter Park and the Moffat Tunnel. Pike's Peak was visible, far to the South. Then we followed the Colorado River for some 240 miles, again through some very remote and rugged territory, with frequent groups of rafts travelling down the River. At Grand Junction we could buy fruit or souvenirs next to the platform. Then beautiful Ruby Canyon as we entered the State of Utah.

Day 8 we crossed the Great Basin Desert of Nevada, following the Humboldt River (as the wagon trains did in older days). We were delayed coming into Reno, then spent a long time waiting in Reno before proceeding up the Truckee River to the Donner Pass area. Then we stopped seemingly for good, and it was announced that a Freight Train ahead of us had broken down and was stuck inside the Summit Tunnel, awaiting the arrival of "heavy equipment" to assist in its dismantlement and removal. The location was excellent, however, so for the next five hours we watched the panorama across Donner Lake and the mountain crags towering above it, as afternoon faded to evening and into night.

We arrived in Sacramento (on the same train) at Midnight, having missed all possible connections back to Southern California. The Amtrak folks gave me cash for a motel stay, and a taxi voucher to get there with. Very courteously and effectively handled. As it happens, the motel was full but there was another one across the street with one single room left. Later I found out why Amtrak wasn't recommending that one (flea-bag conditions there)... but it has been upgraded since then and taken over by a reputable chain, so that particular hazard is no longer there. And so concluded my eight day journey of non-stop train riding across the country, San Diego to Boston to Sacramento, never stepping outside of a station except to board another train.

Day 9 I caught the morning San Joaquin Train from Sacramento to Fresno (service beyond there was suspended due to a freight derailment), then Amtrak Bus to Bakersfield and LAX, then the LA Red Line, Blue Line, and Green Line to the other LAX (the Airport) which was a short walk from my parents' house. There I re-joined my daughter (who had just returned from camping) and my wife (who had travelled down by train, hoping we would rendezvous in Martinez or Stockton on the way there). After dinner with the family, I was about ready to collapse. Just one more train ride to go!

On the morning of Day 10 we took the cross-town bus to Union Station and rode the Coast Starlight back to the San Francisco Bay Area. Beautiful travelling, with views of the Ocean by morning light. Unfortunately, the service stopped at Oakland (Jack London Square) because there had just been a fire inside the Cascades Summit Tunnel. We were assured that Amtrak would NOT get us any further than Oakland. But that was a lot closer to home than was Los Angeles, so we figured something would work out. Sure enough, on arrival there we found Amtrak Busses for several destinations, including Martinez, where my wife had parked our car on her way south.

And so concluded my first cross-country trip on Amtrak... 11 days and 8188 miles on Amtrak, including eight consecutive days non-stop. I was still required to travel in Canada, according to the terms of my Rail Pass, so after a week at home, I began Phase 2 of the Journey.

To be continued...
 
Hello, Everyone! I discovered this Forum a few days ago, and it looks like a great place to discuss Amtrak trains and adventures. This looks like a good time to get on board, so... Here goes.
Aloha, Welcome to the Forum, And Mahalo

Realy nice trip report, looking forward to part 2. Are there pictures you can share with us?
 
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Realy nice trip report, looking forward to part 2. Are there pictures you can share with us?
Thanks for the welcome! When I travel, I always go "gadget free". No cell phones, no GPS, no computer... and no camera. I just pick up post-cards along the way. Unfortunately, without a scanner, I cannot post these either.

Bye for now.
 
What happens if, on the rail pass, I simply book a trip to Canada on Via but skip that ride? Do they send me a huge-arse bill for all the tickets I reserved through other means?
 
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