This post is the last of my Indian train rides. I am chilling in Delhi for a day or two now before heading back to the U.K.
As always, the same report has photos too at:
http://www.indiamike.com/india/journal.php?do=showentry&e=1405 (Scroll down for new item, it is in chronological order).
Kolkata to Simla, (or somewhere Shimla) and Delhi.
I was a little harsh describing the Kolkata hotel. Being over tired and over hot probably made me a bit over critical! I did have two very nice meals there.
The hotel had 24 hour checkout, which means that if you arrive at 5am, your check out time is 5am next day, rather than the more regular noon check in and out in western hotels.
I arrived about 11am, and checked out at 5pm the following day, so was charged for two days, which was as expected. I chose a cheaper hotel exactly for this reason!
The hotel guys hailed an old Ambassador taxi, and negotiated a correct fare for me. There was another passenger already in the cab, who shifted into the front seat.
Heavy traffic all the way, we went into a very congested market area which had mostly pedestrians and two wheelers to drop the first passenger off. The taxi had a walking pace collision with a cycle rickshaw at one point... Much yelling and gesticulating later, the two vehicles parted again. No harm done, these are both very sturdy vehicles!
Crossing Howrah bridge, we arrive at the station. There are many small shops inside, selling a range of food, books, cosmetics, and many miscellaneous items. I limited my purchase to a couple of bottles of water, and some pre-packed nuts. I have some biscuits and other food items with me too, just in case...
There are several good seating areas at the station, and I was lucky to find an end seat, so could place my bags to the side. Fans provided a welcome breeze, and many vendors passed by with offers of chai, chaat, shoeshine, and even a zip repair service for broken bags! Busy station, lots of commuters as well as longer distance travellers... I felt sorry for passengers waiting for a train which had its departure put back several hours ’till almost midnight. I was slightly concerned until I saw my own train departure correctly displayed, 19.40 .
The first train ride we ever had in India, back in 1983, was from Delhi to Kalka, the
“1 up” Kalka Mail. Although re-numbered, this train I was boarding tonight is that same Kalka Mail, which first ran in 1866. For sheer nostalgic reasons, I was pleased to be taking this same train all the way to Kalka, and then the toy train once again up to Simla, or Shimla as it is called nowadays.
I have a side lower berth again, this coach seems newer than some recent ones, and is in a clean and tidy condition. I was pleased that the upper bunk passenger had no luggage, and went up into his bunk straight away, and had gone by morning.
The catering on this train is by the same company that handles the Trivandrum Rajdhani, “Meals on Wheels”. I ordered the veg dinner and was informed it would be Rs130. Just Rs.10 more than the Coromandel Express, decent, but somewhat less content.
I was so tired that I dropped off to sleep straight away and had to be woken later to eat my dinner.
I notice a young guy is being escorted through the train by some police, ticketless traveller, or something more, no idea. Quite a number of these RPF staff aboard, the Railway Protection Force is a separate police force, and have offices at many stations.
Very sound sleep that night, dozed on ‘till about 9am!
Nice omelette for breakfast, Rs.50 again, but once more the food is not quite as plentiful.
I also had the lunch and evening meals, priced as before, and enjoyed the food.
I spent most of the journey dozing off and on, and even missed the Delhi station stop through being asleep.
We were woken around 4am at Chandigarh by the coach attendant, which is about 30 minutes before Kalka. I had a quick freshen up and we soon pulled into Kalka station.
I had plans to leave my big suitcase here at Kalka, in the luggage cloakroom, but I was unable to locate the facility, if indeed it exists. Consequently, I was one of the last to arrive at the “toy train” narrow gauge platform.
Although I had a ticket with a coach number and a seat number, there was no indication of which coach was which. I found my name on one coach chart and got aboard. I claimed seat 8, which was on my ticket, but it seems it was now the wrong seat. I was eventually allocated another seat 30 seconds before the train started. Despite being a small train, there was quite a lot of space for luggage, much more than on the Matheran toy train.
Snacks are included with this train, the Shivalik. We were served tea and biscuits to start, and then a meal was loaded later at Barog station.
I was seated opposite a young doctor and his wife, and their daughter. Sadly the daughter had a disability that affected her in several ways. It was heartening to see the love and care given to the daughter by the parents. They explained that one of the daughters special teachers was an Austrian guy, so the daughter was thinking I was a teacher too, as a European.
Another young woman was part of the same family, and gave the same care and affection to the youngster. I found this young woman quite mesmerising, such good looks and a natural manner. Apart from the views outside, the view inside the train was very pleasant for me too.
The train starts to climb as soon as we leave Kalka, and winds back and forth around and through the hills. One feature of this line is the number of tunnels.
At Barog station, around the half way point, the attendant disappears off to the catering kitchen and returns with a box of meals. Some passengers get down for few minutes to stretch their legs and take a few photos. The sights from the train are stunning, long views down to the valleys below. I take several shots, some from the open door, but the slight mist hides much of the detail that the eye can pick out.
We wait at another station, Jutogh, while a down hill passenger train passes. we have a few minutes here, and I spot a woman taking my photo. I strike a pose, which amuses her, and she allows me to snap one of her in return.
I am confused at first on arriving at Shimla, but discover later that the station has been much enlarged in recent years, beyond that which I remembered from 1983.
I am delighted to spot a luggage place at Shimla, and drop my big suitcase there. I have to sign a form that I have no money or jewellery in the case! I was told they close at 5pm, and to return with my chit and Rs15 before that time. They asked if I wanted to leave both cases, but I said no, this other one is full of money and jewels, which raised a big laugh!
Gosh, the walk from the station up to the Mall area of Shimla is so steep! I had to stop frequently to let my poor old heart slow down again, it was pounding away. I won’t pretend to be very fit, but in my defence it is at nearly 7,000 feet and I did have my roller case to pull too!
I had a stroll around, it was nice to see the old style buildings still preserved. Quite surreal to spot the church after seeing so many temples and mosques everywhere in recent days. A few more western tourists seen here also. Many Indians looking very well dressed, promenading up and down in their "Sunday Best".
I take a seat at the old bandstand, to shelter from the sun, and am pleased to feel a cool breeze blowing there. I sit a while, munching a few snacks, and watching the folk passing by.
I get several offers of hotels, but as I am going back down to Kalka this same evening, they fall on deaf ears.
I like the fact that Shimla is high in the hills, with great views, but the train ride was the attraction, as well as wanting to see Shimla itself again for those nostalgic reasons.
After another stroll around, it is time to head back towards the station. Downhill this time, much easier. There is a sizable army base in Shimla, and I am amused to see a “Sherwood Officers Club” building, as I live in the Sherwood district of Nottingham City.
Bit of a wait until my train departs, I enjoy snapping a few pics of the “railmotor” a sort of bus size rail coach, which departs ahead of our train.
The confusion over the seats is repeated for the down hill train, but I am more awake now and get my luggage aboard and find a seat anyway.
Trip down is the same as coming up, with tea and snacks, and a small meal provided at Barog again. Darkness falls early, so most of the ride down is without the views.
The transfer to my Kalka to Old Delhi train is easy, and I am soon dozing in my berth. A RPF guy asks me to be careful of leaving any phones charging overnight, as they are a target for thieves. I assure him I will be careful, and after setting my alarm for 5.30am, next thing I know it is morning, and the train is due to arrive in Delhi.
Quite pleased to negotiate a Rs50 fee for a porter, but I cheered him up with an extra Rs20 tip!
Auto to my Paharganj hotel........and so to bed ...
