Southwest Chief, April 2014

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Heresy! No California Burger Chain will Ever match the Mom and Pop Joints that still exist in most towns!

In and Out just opened in Austin and the New Arrivals are going crazy lining up for hours to get their fix like its a 4 Star Parisian Bistro or something!

They're Good but not Great and I say that as someone who knows that the 2 Joes Know Food!
 
Still enjoying your report, MM! How long was your bus ride in total? I have to say I hate bus rides, probably couldn't last more than an hour on one.
 
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Great trip report! I particularly like this reference to the Greyhound bus, "Readers will appreciate that we were pretty dam thrilled to be getting off that bus. " Glad I'm not the only one who doesn't like the 'dog'......
 
In-And-Out is as good as it gets for a chain, and it's DAMN GOOD. Beats the food u get at a lot of

"locals" (maybe not Threadgill's Jim) but doesn't beat the atmosphere of the locals.
 
Very enjoyable read. I think that one of the things I enjoy about my own trips stateside is the juxtaposition of luxury and comfort with gritty bus rides and rough characters!

Ed :cool:
 
I'll try to respond to a few posts before continuing. CalMom, the California bus ride is scheduled at 1010-1655, with the half hour meal break included. We didn't leave until maybe 11? And arrived close to 6p. I think Amtrak should list all the stops instead of making it sound like it just goes to LAS, so people can be more informed in their decision making. After all, the Kingman routing indicates the stop at Laughlin. Hess, I have heard about that "secret menu" but this was a first maybe only visit, so I didn't even get as adventurous as the onion option. The regular cheeseburger was actually a double, with lettuce and tomato. Tasted so much better than expected. Seemed like they actually used fresh ingredients. Like Bill said, really, really good.

GG, the D hotel, especially considering how close it was to the bus station, was a nice place to rest for the evening. i would not want to plan a lengthy stay there, and the downtown area despite having strollers and little kids in evidence, really is not a family atmosphere, especially in the evening and later. Fremont Street in general I'd recommend more for adults without kids. But we were more than happy with the hotel, it was a bargain compared to Strip hotels, and our room was clean, comfortable and quiet (facing towards the mountain away from Fremont). Unfortunately, from our perspective anyway, even our nonsmoking room had a smoke smell. It is particularly concentrated on this property for some reason. Staying only one night there was no reason to complain. It might be the way all the downtown properties are. Also, I have to say the D Grill was excellent. Service was friendly, nice atmosphere and the food outstanding. And again unlike many of its Strip counterparts, affordable. With the 5$ off coupon received at checkin, our breakfast was not only enjoyable, it was an excellent deal. Recommend!
 
In and Out has a complete secret menu to order from!
They have some of the items listed on their official website now, where they actually call it the "not-so-secret menu"! Although what I've heard is that you can get just about anything you can think of involving any of the ingredients they have in the restaurant, just as long as you can describe it to the cashier and he or she can then pass it along to the cooks.

I do love Animal Style. Now this thread has gotten me hungry.
 
MM - they do use fresh ingredients. :) That's why they won't expand. Otherwise, they'd have to ship the meat and such in freezer trucks.

I always get a double-double, fries well done, and a Neapolitan shake.

I miss In-N-Out so, so much. I love that place. It's my treat every time I go to CA. I doubt I'd eat there often if I lived there, but in a way, that's what makes it so special... that I only get to have it once every few years.

The last time I flew out there, Brent and I stopped at an In-N-Out near SFO because we simply could not wait. We were on our way to meet friends, so we texted them to say, "Sorry. Give us 15 minutes. We couldn't pass this place without stopping." They understood. :)
 
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So where'd I leave off.... oh yeah, we'd left Kingman AZ, to fall asleep and wake up a few hours later in Flagstaff, 530ish. This is a major stop for both the coaches and sleeper cars. The SCA told me people will board at Flagstaff in a roomette and disembark at ABQ. It got me to wondering if Amtrak loses revenue on sleeper sales for short distances.... but I digress. Bustling Flagstaff, before sunrise, and I could smell the coffee brewing. It was not enough to keep me awake. A couple of hours later, I stumble up the staircase for a cup of that coffee and then come back down to the roomette, informing my daughter that she can either sleep in or have breakfast in the diner. She is up very quickly. Knocking on my son's door across the hall, he opens the curtain and gives us a glare. Turns out he has no interest in going to breakfast, and reminded me that we still had a sandwich I'd purchased for him the previous night, in the lunch-container-cooler thing that we take on trips. He said he'd eat that for breakfast. So it was just my little girl and me who showed up in the diner. We sat down and watched the landscape, trying not to miss Las Vegas. Presently a woman walked into the diner and the staff motioned for her to sit across from us. She looked so perplexed I felt sorry for her and spoke up: "They aren't going to let you sit by yourself even if the place is empty." At that she smiled broadly and started telling us how poorly she slept in her coach seat, how this was her first and last trip on Amtrak, and how she was only doing this to visit a relative who was unable to travel. I made no mention of us being in a sleeper nor did I recommend that she try one next time, because, well, because every once in a great while, I know when to keep quiet. Let's just leave it at that. The 3 of us did have a great conversation as we crossed the NM desert. She was looking forward to returning to her home in ABQ, and after we got back to our roomette, my daughter was looking forward to seeing the crafts for sale on the ABQ platform again. My son was now up and eating the sandwich, so I brought him a cup of orange juice to enjoy with it. Both kids wanted to settle in with their electronics for a while. Given the scenery I decided perhaps this was the time to visit the SSL car. Neither wanted to come with me, so I told them I would return when the train was ready to stop in ABQ. I stopped at the cafe to get a cup of hot water. I've usually got a few green tea bags somewhere in my luggage, since it's never all that difficult to get hot water, somewhere. The SSL car was surprisingly empty, and I settled in by one of the windows. It is definitely a broader vantage point than the sleeper window, and since it wasn't crowded, I stayed. Soon, the announcement came that ABQ was coming up, and I got up to make my way back. The SSL car was located behind the dining car on the way to our car, and when I was about to cut through the dining car, 3 small children (2 under 5 I would say) stopped me and asked for assistance in finding their parents. It didn't help my peace of mind when the youngest took off in the opposite direction, while her brother (?) told me that she "wasn't supposed" to run off. As it turned out, they were with different family members, one in coach, one in a roomette, and the dining car attendant helped me reconstruct where each kid should be headed. It was kind of weird, though. Again, not mine to judge....but at least, I knew where my kids were, and I was late getting to them because of that situation. The train had stopped by then and my daughter was visibly relieved when I showed up at our roomette. It will surprise no one that my son stayed onboard while we girls ventured outside. Previously, I had looked through our cash reserves, setting aside SCA and diner tips, and the rest pretty much was spent at the craft tables, not that we made anyone rich from that :) When we boarded the train again, we met our SCA, Peggy. She's a marvel, vivacious and hardworking. She had her hands full, too, as our car was always full. Evidently this is more likely to happen with the car closest to the diner. After our chat with Peggy, we went to lunch and for the first time, did not have anyone seated with us. Although we did enjoy meeting people on this trip, it was also nice to be left to our own devices. We had hoped to see the diner crew from Train 3 but these folks were just as good with different personalities. I gained a litte insight and found out that the mystery meat described earlier was indeed, pork loin. The "healthy" option is prepackaged and no substitutions can be made to what comes with it. Which is fine, but for whatever this is worth, I think Amtrak should not load pork dishes onboard and serve to people who order beef. Anyway, at lunch we got 2 adult burgers and one kid hotdog meal. One thing I will keep in mind for future trips is to pack some variety of fresh vegetables in our little cooler. Carrot sticks, celery, anything. It's great to have meals onboard but at some point I would have sold one of my kids for an honest to goodness vegetable (i.e., not corn or potato). The little salad dishes at dinner do probably comprise one vegetable serving.. not enough for a day. Anyway, we while away the afternoon, knowing it's our last day on the train as we will be arriving in Chicago the next day for a connection to the Wolverine home. We find ourselves a bit tired from the lack of sleep the previous night, and all of us take catnaps in between lunch and dinner. Any stop that is announced that gives us an opportunity to get outside and stretch for a few minutes, maybe even walk a bit - I'm out there. These stops were always well announced, as were the brief stops where staff indicated people would not be able to detrain if it were not their destination. As the sun begins its slow descent and we have given our dinner reservation time for 530, my son announces that we have a mini-crisis brewing. At least, it's evidently a teenage boy crisis.

Next up: Sports: How important Can a game be??
 
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Peggy is definitely awesome. So was Paul.

So, late desert afternoon, sunny, expansive. I had fallen asleep but woke up before the announcement for 530 dinner reservations. The crisis unfolded when we called across the aisle for MI Son to get himself ready for dinner. Ah, but it seemed there was an all important hockey game on at the same time. Something about the Redwings and playoffs - I really couldn't tell you, but it necessitated him being able to get a signal and listen on his phone - I'm not understanding that either. If anyone out there can tell me what electronics are needed (and how expensive they are) to take on a trip so various sports events can be listened to, I'm thinking I can get a few more years of family travel here. He is an honors student and I wouldn't be adverse to getting him a scanner or whatever is needed. Maybe I should go to Radio Shack and ask. Anyway...he strongly didn't want to be preoccupied with his phone in the diner, and I agreed. Having been essentially a solver of problems in my previous job, this was an easy one. I'd simply fill out the ticket for the server and ask to bring his meal back to him in a to-go carton. Sarah, I was wishing at that moment for a stop with an In and Out Burger adjacent to the platform :) Anyway, problem solved, and off we went, MI Daughter and I. We were seated across from an older couple, very gracious and dressed to the nines. They had to be in their later 70s, yet clearly enjoying life to the fullest. They had pretty much traveled the globe and had many interesting tales to tell, often engaging my daughter in the conversation, which I thought was very kind of them. Time went by quickly and we had even finished our desserts, we all left our tips on the table, and the couple bade us good evening. The dining car staff had brought us an extra dessert for my son, but we were still waiting for his to-go dinner. When the server walked by I asked him about it and he replied, "Oh, I took him his dinner some time ago." Can you imagine how considerate that was? We didn't even ask for that service. So we took his dessert back to the car and found him with earbuds on, frowning. I know when not to ask him about the progress of a game so I just collected the used dishes and silverware in the same bag they were packed in, disposed of the paper trash, and took the bag back to the diner. I'm really not sure about these new plastic plates. Designed to withstand high power microwaving, I am sure they can be washed and resused, at the very least recycled? Does anyone know? It's not very "green" to dispose of this amount of recyclable waste.

Anyway, a last evening winding down for the night on the train, I tell my kids that the rough track is just like a free massage. If you say that out loud you can actually think of it that way :) We fall asleep somewhere between CO and KS, crossing states while I don't have to be the driver :) What....a feeling....awesome.

Later: Still sunshine but back in the Midwest
 
We are up in time for breakfast and are happy to see our diner staff friends from the previous evening. I really was floored how nice it was for the guy to take my son his dinner so he wouldn't have to wait. I was so glad that good tip planning meant that I had enough ones and fives to tip appropriately for all meals. They work very hard. Anyway, all 3 of us went to breakfast and this time they seated an older woman with us, who clearly liked children and she seemed to enjoy talking with my little girl, who once again enjoyed the attention. When that nice man took our orders he warned that the vegetables in the omellete were the same corn medley thing that had followed us all during Trains 3/4 and appeared in many dishes, but my son wasn't picky. I had the chef special burrito with egg and pepper jack, my daughter went for her last Railroad French toast, and our companion had the scrambled eggs. The "Wild West" views from the window had given way to more Midwest, although the weather was still nice. You start to get this feeling about then, as in, it will be good to get home of course, but a great vacation coming to an end is still a bit of a downer. The daily grind against Las Vegas is simply an unfair match :) Afterwards we returned to our rooms and we moved our bags to the luggage rack in the hall so we could help Peggy by getting as much ready as we could. With seats in the daytime configuration, we watched the scenery, started packing and checking for odds and ends, and chatted. Well, my daughter and I chatted, my son decided that vacation was truly over and started trying to work on chemistry problems. The morning seemed to fly by and before we knew it, the diner called for 12:00 lunch reservations and we went back for the last train meal. The entree salad was not bad, mostly Romaine and a few cherry tomatoes, and could be ordered with or without grilled chicken. I was happy to just have a salad. Our dining companion was having a wondeful time and loved everything about train travel, including the food. Her enthusiasm was contagious - I'm not someone who would ever get that excited about the softness of a roll. But she was that excited and engaged about everything, and freely shared her knowledge, which was considerable, and her many travel experiences. I love hearing the perspective and knowledge from folks who have truly traveled the world. She had also lived in a number of places but was very happy with the retirement home she and her husband got in New Mexico. Not only did this last train meal pass by very quickly, but the diner had cleared and the staff were putting things away and we were still chatting. Our gergarious companion wished us safe travels and we wished her the same, we left our tips and she reminded us to explore the wonders of New Mexico on future trips. When we returned to our sleeper, Peggy had finished readying the room for arrival so we retrieved our bags and continued to search for anything that might have fallen or been misplaced. Freight traffic near Chicago slowed our arrival and we pulled into Union Station about an hour late. The plan had been to shop and pick up dinner for the 6 pm Wolverine trip home, but the shorter layover created a narrower window in which to accomplish this and we learned, or were reminded, of a few things to keep in mind about weekend store hours in the Loop area..

Next up: In Search Of
 
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If you don't mind my asking, Lion, what depressed you about Vegas? I want to live there :)

And, it's time for the last installment, to wind up the Great SW Chief Excursion of 2014. We are arriving into Chicago, and the topic of discussion is whether or not we can wait in the Metropolitan Lounge. We are not connecting TO a sleeper, but we arrived on one. MI kids think I have nothing to lose by asking the attendants inside, so we go in with our tickets. It turns out that sleeper car accommodations are eligible to spend the layover in the Lounge, even if we are not connecting to another FC service. So we set up shop there, it was not at all crowded as the LD trains had all left for the afternoon. We have only an hour and a half to go out and find food for dinner, and son wants to take advantage of the internet access to email everyone in his study groups and so on, rather than go out into the city. He said just get him any type of packaged roast beef or turkey sandwich and a banana or apple and a drink. Us girls leave him in the lounge, on his computer, with all the luggage and we head out into a beautful warm Chicago afternoon. Relying on memory here, pretty sure there was a Walgreen's on Madison going east a couple blocks. While that isn't where I would normally look for food, I'd noticed that recently the chain has introduced some semi "fresh" to go offerings such as salads,sandwiches and other snacks including fruit, yogurt parfaits and so on. Plus I thought we could pick up some milk, lemonade and maybe an adult beverage :) We walked over the Chicago river and after some second-guessing, spotted the Walgreens on Madison and sprinted across the street. It was closed. ***? On a Saturday afternoon? I looked at my watch - it was exactly 5 pm. Well, maybe they closed at 5 on Saturdays, which seemed odd in the big city, a sentiment echoed by someone else who walked up behind us and tried the door. No matter. It's a big city, we'll find another one. We didn't want to venture too far away though, knowing they would board that Wolverine at 530 and that it would be difficult to get seats together. So we turned to head back west and saw a CVS across the street. We ran up and found it, too, was closed. No matter, we pressed on, and circled back to the CVS that was kitty corner from the station. According to the sign it was never open on weekends at all.

Wow. To look at the positive side, we just had a brisk combination walk/sprint around Chicago on a beautiful day, and after being on vacation we needed the exercise. on the negative side, we had a strapping 6 foot lanky teen who had not eaten much that day and who wanted something other than train food. We figured at least we could go back to the station and get something there, so we walked/jogged back and looked around. It was only a few minutes away from boarding time by then. What places were open had dreadful lines (Mickey D/s) or were sold out of everything (Corner Bakery) or didn't have anything that either kid was interested in. Relay's the convenience store had prepackaged sandwiches, so I grabbed one of those, a couple bananas, chocolate milk and we were on our way back to the lounge. At checkin the attendant said there would be snacks available but in reality each time a basket of chips was brought out, it was emptied with lighting speed and I asked if I could have just one for my daughter, whereupon the nice attendant set out another basket. We took a bag of chips for her and collected our belongings in anticipation of the boarding call. The attendant called us to the front of the lounge then changed her mind upon seeing the congestion, taking us around the back way, through the same door that was used to board the LD trains. She kindly directed us towards our track and we joined the queue, with boarding already well underway. As with previous trips, there was a conductor who appeared to be directing people to the cars where they wanted people to board. When we got to the front of the line, a passenger on the adjacent track claimed his attention and he stepped away to help him. So we waited. After a few seconds, certainly less than a minute, a woman tapped my shoulder aggressively and asked us to keep moving. I replied that we were waiting for the conductor to let us know which car to board. Based on over a decade of Wolverine travel, they always had specific cars for specific stops. The woman said, in a very condescending tone, "That has never mattered before." Well, yes it has and I told her as much. She frowned and stepped back for a moment, while my son, looking over his shoulder at the crowd and at the man who was occupying the conductor's attention, said, "Mom, that person seems like they have a major problem. Let's just get on." So we walked up a couple of cars, and then saw the other conductor, who, when asked where we should board, said, 'It doesn't matter on weekends." OK, never heard this before but whatever. We climb the stairs and get on. The car is full. I'm thinking I'd like to sit next to my little girl even though son is fine by himself. We walk all the way through the train a couple of times and find nothing. Finally a conductor (the one who was helping a passenger on the next train over) moved a couple of single passengers so "this little girl can sit with her mother" and my son sat a couple rows away with another young man, and we roll out of Chicago on our way home. I really do not remember when the last time I took a Saturday night Wolverine out of Chicago (that wasn't in BC) but this is another one of those experiences not to be repeated. We were apparently in the Kzoo car, with apologies to Sarah but it was unbearable. Loud drunks, lots of weird smelling food and people standing in the aisles, carrying on, loud screeching converations and laughter. It's fine that people were enjoying themselves but there was no break in the volume, in fact even listening to music or a movie with earbuds was impossible Each time the female conductor came through, I thought for sure she would say something, but she merely kept going. I have seen her before on other trips, and have also learned that if you get the odd conductor who gives every indication that they hate both people and their job, they aren't going to change, and the only thing to do is to smile and minimize contact with them. Actually you can forego the smile and they won't miss it, having lost the ability to respond in kind. I'm really not sure what it is about the Wolverine, maybe it's the consistent sold out crowds, maybe some other reason but there is a 50/50 chance your onboard crew look like they hate humanity. The noise level, not to mention the smells (my son's seating companion opined that one of the worst examples detrained at Niles, although the car retained the smell of body odor for some time afterward) and the erratic service all make this an example of a service to avoid. Many years ago, MI Mom's ex husband used to take Amtrak from Detroit to Ann Arbor and back and he used to ask the staff if the train was on time. His favorite response was, "It's today, isn't it?" Sadly all these years later and the Wolverine is as erratic as ever. We lost a little time enroute, announced with the perfuctory, meaningless apology and then then when we finally left Jackson, thinking we'd only be a half hour late home. But just then an announcement was made that due to a "signal problem" the train would only be able to go 15 ("that's one-five") miles an hour, and that "they were looking at the problem" and they would let us know if "it was fixed." Well I tell you what, I'd trade 6 million useless apologies if they had just followed up with anything. That was the first and last description of the problem. We had moved from the crazy loud obnoxious car, to another car where there were a couple empty seats, which was slightly more relaxing, but also had a family with babies that apparently didn't know how to dispose of diapers so the smell didn't pervade the entire car. Really people it's not that difficult. Wrap them up and then put them in plastic bags, tied up tightly and then put them in the trash. But at least the noise level was down, except for when the ladies from that one car went to the cafe car and back. Never heard such loud consistent conversation. The train crawls along, and I think the short distance from Jackson to Ann Arbor was covered in something close to 2 hours. Signal problem? Speed restriction? Whatever it is, it sure doesn't make sense to most passengers. I usually try to find a silver lining, which in this case, it got us over missing our vacation time, and looking forward to getting home and cleaned up and into bed. There are several people I know professionally who now drive between Ann Arbor or Detroit and Chicago on business, who will not take the train. After this experience I can no longer in good conscience advocate anything differently, and recently one of them had said to me, "There is nothing you could say to change my mind." I'm still hopeful for the future of train travel and for more and better Michigan-Chicago services. But this segment on the Wolverine was comparable to the Greyhound ride across the desert..... minus the rest stop and scenery. It was definitely an adventure, and overall, I know my kids had a great vacation, and we made some memories in the process. Thanks for reading and for the comments, enjoyed those more than the writing!

MM
 
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Great reporting job, Michigan Mom, and my congrats to you for taking your kids ion this somewhat adventurous journey! Most if it sounded pretty good, excepting Greyhound and the Michigan trains. I have not been on Greyhound in over ten years and have never been on the Michigan trains. You may have read my recent report on the UK where I found it necessary to complain about the 40ish ill behaved drunks on United Airlines. They were disgusting. Had they been on Amtrak, they might have been met by the police at the next grade crossing
 
The "Kalamazoo car" gets a lot of overflow from the "U of M" car(s), since those get so unbelievably packed on the weekends. You end up with a billion college students, high on weekend fun, heading back to their respective campuses. I don't blame you for being annoyed, and I take no offense. I'm happy the train is so busy, but on the other hand, yeah... it's crazy.

Our favorite trick is to head for the car that holds the Michigan City and New Buffalo passengers, as they get off at the beginning of the run. We enjoy a nice, empty-ish car until we hit the outskirts of Kalamazoo, whereupon we move forward to the Kalamazoo car so we can get off at the platform with everyone else. :)

You'll be happy to know that service will be speeding up once they finish the tracking between Kalamazoo and Dearborn. It will be 110 mph, just like the portion from Kalamazoo to Porter. This should also prevent the general delay nonsense. Additionally, we're getting new cars (bi-levels), which means more capacity (yay!). Plus, there's a hope that they'll add service, as in having more trains daily. That should also help with capacity.
 
Since y'all live in Michigan you probably know about Business Class on the Wolverine, I'm not sure what they charge now for the upgrade but I've always found it worth it on this Route! (I used to ride Detroit-Chicago a couple of times aonth!) Perhaps your colleagues would find this a reason to give the Train a try instead of riding in the zoo car with the animals!

And things Closed in Chicago on the weekend????? Unbelievable and strange!
 
BC is kind of ridiculous, even if you book way in advance. It used to be about $16 extra, but lately it's been more like $60-70 extra (on weekends - I'm not sure about midweek, and this is just my experience). Boarding first and having a quiet car is really nice, but it's not worth it for us since we live so close. It defeats the whole "cheaper than gas" thing at that point.

We only use BC if it's part of our point redemption on an LD trip.
 
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Jim, I can attest to what Sarah was saying about the fare increase... and I can't blame Amtrak because the inventory apparently always sells out quickly. I was looking at DET-CHI with a colleague recently and the days of the 12$ upgrade are definitely gone the way of the dinosaur. Our employer pays for coach travel and I expect most employers would have a similar policy; then the employee pays the upgrade cost. If available you really have to consider whether it's worth paying 80$ for. Also, to clarify, I'm not trying to trash Wolverine service and use it at least 6 times a year. I just wish things about it were better :) 15 mph all the way from Jackson to Ann Arbor because of a "faulty switch" is not something that is going to make sense to the non-foamer, and it was torture. The early morning departure does seem to have the fewest issues, but that's just my personal observation.
 
The early morning departure does seem to have the fewest issues, but that's just my personal observation.
I think you're right. We tend to ride the 9:25 Wolverine, which would be the first Wolverine of the day, and I can't remember ever having to wait more than 5-10 minutes. Hopefully, once the track is upgraded, we'll see a lot more of that. (Obviously, if there's a delay on the Chicago or Pontiac end, that'll trip it up, but at least the majority of the track will be upgraded.)
 
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