California in July - Train and Camping

[RobertB]

After having a great time on our honeymoon trip to Detroit in 2011, my wife and I are planning to tour California by train - and when possible, stay in a tent. We're going to fly from Dallas to San Diego on Monday July 15, and return 10 days later, Thursday July 25. Of course, taking the train to CA was an option, until we found out how cheap we could get there on an unnamed southwestern airline.

Our itinerary is totally flexible, so I figure we'll start out with the $159 California Rail Pass. It looks like we have to go through the 800 number (or we can "call our travel agent"), because it's not available online. Will I run into complications ordering it from Dallas?

The San Diego commuter rail system connects with towns along the beach to the north, so San Elijo State Beach is just an hour out of SD, and it's a 2-mile walk (or a bus hop) from Solana Beach Amtrak.

And if we ride Amtrak as far north as we can (without paying to go into Oregon), end-of-the-line Dunsmuir looks awesome! Cave Springs Motel (and cabins) has good rates, pickup from the Amtrak station, and it's sitting on a mountain stream full of trout.

So that takes care of the south and north end of the trip. Now I want to fill up the middle. From threads on the board, it looks like Yosemite National Park is going to be easy to do - they even have a Public Transportation Information page.

And neither of us has ever been to San Francisco (unless you count my experience at the Oakland Naval Hospital - where I was born). A quick look at cheaper-priced Motel 6 locations, compared to Amtrak stations, has me looking at Fremont. That puts us on BART, and it's close to a potential camping option (Anthony Chabot Regional Park, need to look into it a bit more).

Once we find a place in the San Francisco area, it looks like there are a dizzying array of transit options in the Bay Area. On top of that, I have a Zipcar card, so we can take in some car-only sights for $10 an hour.

Any additional suggestions? I feel like I've only scratched the surface!

 

[BCL]

A lot of these places are very hard to do without a car. I've thought about camping at Chabot, and it's really spread out. There may be public transportation options, but not necessarily on a good schedule.

The Motel 6 locations in Fremont are near I-880. The station is not.

As for Yosemite, good luck reserving a campsite. It's almost like a bloodsport. Other than that, there's Camp 4, which you'll need to wait in line and hope there's an opening. Besides that, as a "secret" option, anyone who arrives via bus is allowed to stay at the Backpackers Campgrounds. They don't publicize it, but it's in the Superintendent's compendium of rules. There's one in Yosemite Valley across a bridge from North Pines Campground. If it's crowded you might need to share a campsite. Technically you don't get your own campsite, but that's not an issue if it's not crowded.

http://www.nps.gov/yose/parkmgmt/upload/compendium.pdf
Backpacker camps are intended for use by visitors in possession of an overnight Wilderness Permit or for visitors arriving in the park by foot, bicycle, or bus. Wilderness permit holders may stay in a backpacker camp the night prior to departure and the night after returning from each overnight Wilderness trip.

 

[JoeSF]

When visiting San Francisco, keep in mind that if you try to save money by staying in Fremont, the BART fare to SF is $5.65 each way, per person. That's $22.30 minimum per day. Add in the bus fare to the station (probably another $2.00 each) and the 60-90 minute travel time each way and the savings start to diminish. You can find some pretty decent budget hotels in the South of Market area that aren't by any means luxurious or even charming, but convenient and safe if you are comfortable in big cities (if you spent your honeymoon in Detroit then I guess you are). Another option might be the Youth Hostel in Ft Mason (called the hostel at Fisherman's Wharf on the site)overlooking the bay and the Golden Gate Bridge. I think there are a few private rooms, but the dorms seem to be mostly gender segregated.

I was going to say that the California pass is good only on Amtrak California trains but I checked it out and the pass can be used on the Coast Starlight up to Dunsmuir (but no other LD train in CA). So great. You will be arriving very early in the morning.

 

[RobertB]

Good info already!

The three hostels at http://sfhostels.com/ all look very interesting. Hope they don't turn us away because our "Youth" is long past - chronologically, at least.

Once we're closer to an itinerary, I'll be sure to book Yosemite in advance. We'd probably plan that for weekdays, since it sounds like it's going to be packed on the weekends.

I'll be sure to look at the time on the Dunsmuir leg. It won't be terribly scenic if the trip is in the dark both ways.

Keep the suggestions coming - thanks!

 

[Bob Dylan]

Good info already!
The three hostels at http://sfhostels.com/ all look very interesting. Hope they don't turn us away because our "Youth" is long past - chronologically, at least.

Once we're closer to an itinerary, I'll be sure to book Yosemite in advance. We'd probably plan that for weekdays, since it sounds like it's going to be packed on the weekends.

I'll be sure to look at the time on the Dunsmuir leg. It won't be terribly scenic if the trip is in the dark both ways.

Keep the suggestions coming - thanks!

Your actual age doesnt matter @ the Hostels, there's always a really Diverse mix of Travelers @ every Hostel from 18-80, as the old Song says::".Fairy Tales can come True, it can Happen to You, .when you're Young at Heart.." The Post about Hotel Deals in San Francisco is Spot on also (Google is your Friend) as is staying in Oakland @ Jack London Square (The Vagabond Inn is good for the Money) and taking the Ferry over to the City!

Not sure of the Schedules but you can also look @ the Am Bus Schedule to reach Dunsmir, perhaps they travel in Daylight and the Scenery Sure is Nice in Northern California!

 

[oregon pioneer]

So great you are traveling by public transit all the way!! Hubby and I did all train and bus on a trip to western Washington a year and a half ago, even though it was relatively "local." I found Google directions to be very useful: just click on "map," then "get directions," then the bus icon right above the origin line. They are occasionally missing the schedules from a transit company, so you may sometimes have to pursue it another way, but it's amazing just how much you can do without a car!

 

[BCL]

Once we're closer to an itinerary, I'll be sure to book Yosemite in advance. We'd probably plan that for weekdays, since it sounds like it's going to be packed on the weekends.

I'll be sure to look at the time on the Dunsmuir leg. It won't be terribly scenic if the trip is in the dark both ways.

Keep the suggestions coming - thanks!

All the reservable campsites are already fully booked for your timeframe. Weekday/weekend doesn't matter. Like I said, it's almost a bloodsport. Yosemite in the summer is packed regardless of whether it's a weekend or weekday. It's just more packed on weekends.

For your timeframe, campsites became available on March 15 at 7 AM PST. The vast majority of slots were snapped up within maybe 7 minutes. I've done it before and it's close to the electronic equivalent of the Oklahoma land rush. I'm not joking. You pretty much have no chance now unless you get extremely lucky and find one that miraculously opened up (happens occasionally). Even if someone canceled, they currenly only make them available on site.

http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/camping.htm

Arrival date: July 15 through August 14
First day to make reservations (7 am PT): March 15

I checked every date from July 15 for two weeks, and every single reservation slot in Lower Pines, North Pines, and Upper Pines is reserved. The only exceptions are sites that are "not available". These are typically in flood areas, and if they become open it's a Park Service decision on whether or not they'll be suitable for camping.

http://www.recreation.gov/camping/Lower_Pines/r/campsiteSearch.do?site=all&type=9&minimal=no&search=site&criteria=new&contractCode=NRSO&parkId=70928&topTabIndex=Search

http://www.recreation.gov/camping/North_Pines/r/campsiteSearch.do?site=all&type=9&minimal=no&search=site&criteria=new&contractCode=NRSO&parkId=70927&topTabIndex=Search

http://www.recreation.gov/camping/Upper_Pines/r/campsiteSearch.do?site=all&type=9&minimal=no&search=site&criteria=new&contractCode=NRSO&parkId=70925&topTabIndex=Search

You might try different lodging options like Curry Village or maybe Yosemite Lodge. Occasionally days become available. I really think your best option would be to print out the page from the Superintendant's Compedium and staying at the backpackers campground. It's $5/day per person, and again there's the little known rule that those arriving by bus are allowed to use it.

 

[BCL]

Here are some articles on the difficulty in getting campsites. Part of the issue is popularity. Another is limited availability. About half the campsites in Yosemite Valley were permanently closed after the Merced River Floods of the 90s. Another is scalpers using electronic means to grab as many reservations as they can and attempt to resell. There have been some attempts to curb this by not making it possible to change the name on a reservation and for cancelled reservations to not be immediately put back into the inventory. Some scalpers would "sell", cancel the reservation, then immediately rebook in the buyer's name.

http://www.npr.org/2011/07/07/137496875/yosemite-cracks-down-on-campsite-scalpers

http://travel.usatoday.com/destinations/dispatches/post/2011/04/yosemite-national-park-scalpers-campsites-waterfalls-travel/165486/1

http://www.nationalparkstraveler.com/2011/06/yosemite-national-park-officials-instituting-reservation-program-changes-stop-campsite-scalping8293

http://www.katu.com/outdoors/destinations/120114319.html

 

[RobertB]

Why is it so difficult to get from the San Francisco area to Los Angeles? The only options seem to be the Coast Starlight, which takes an improbable-sounding 12 hours, or a bus - train - bus odyssey. It's a breeze to get from LA to San Diego - the SF-LA leg seems to be the biggest holdup in the process.

And you were right about the Dunsmuir times. Arrive just after midnight, leave at 5am. May go for it anyway, especially if we end up on the Coast Starlight for SF-LA. That leg is in daylight, so it should be scenic.

It looks like I need to spend some time looking at the Pacific Surfliner route from San Luis Obispo to San Diego. (Why does the route end at San Luis Obispo?) The bus ride between there and San Jose should be scenic, assuming the driver knows the way to San Jose. (rimshot!)

Good news on the hotel front, though. I looked, just out of curiosity, at the "points" accumulated on a credit card - looks like we're good for three weekend nights at the SFO Airport Hyatt. Which may actually make things more difficult... now I've got to fit those long-haul train rides around the weekend. That's a good problem to have, though.

 

[BCL]

Have you figured out where in Yosemite?

Just yesterday several Yosemite Valley campsites slots were made available, but I don't think any in your timeframe. They would probably be gone by now.

The other deal with the backpackers campground is that you're limited to a single night at each backpackers campground if you arrive by bus. However, there are three of them (Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite Valley, Wawona) and you could take various means to get to each one. However, you sound as if this might be a brief stop, so one night in Yosemite Valley might be doable.

http://www.nps.gov/yose/parkmgmt/upload/compendium.pdf

• Backpacker camps are intended for use by visitors in possession of an overnight Wilderness Permit or for visitors arriving in thepark by foot, bicycle, or bus. Wilderness permit holders may stay in a backpacker campthe night prior to departure and the night after returning fromeach overnight Wilderness trip.
• Users arriving in the park by foot, bicycle, or bus may stay in each backpacker camp for a limit of one night.
  

 

[Notelvis]

One hotel suggestion that I'll make is the Vagabond Inn in Sacramento. (The Executive Old Town Location.)

It is right across the street from the Amtrak station and while it's not Motel 6 cheap, it is reasonably priced. Breakfast is included with the room.

From the Vagabond Inn you have Old Town Sacramento, the California Railroad Museum, and a mall with movie theatre all within a couple or three blocks......plus the light rail.

You can also access the San Francisco area from Sacramento by using your Amtrak California Pass on the Capitol Corridor trains.

If you're looking for a reasonably priced, well situated place for a couple of nights (think indoor plumbing, indoor plumbing) in the middle of your trip, this is a stop to consider.

 

[tomfuller]

Find out if the YARTS bus in included from Merced east to Yosemite. Even if it is not you can pay the bus driver,

There is a YARTS bus stop at the foot of the driveway of the BUG Hostel near Midpines.

Consider renting a car in Dunsmuir and driving up to see Crater Lake.

My favorite place to stay in Sacramento is the HI hostel which is at the corner of 10th & H across the street from City Hall.

While in Sacramento plan to visit the California Railroad Museum which is at the north end of Old Town Sacramento.

 

[RobertB]

Oh my goodness, Yosemite Bug looks like just what we'd want. The "tent cabins" for $60 a night had me thinking a couple of nights... but the spa facilities bumped that up to three! And they have Amtrak-specific directions on the site.

That seems to firm up the schedule. Here's what I've got so far.

Mon 15
12n: Arrive San Diego
Local transit to beach

Tue 16
Beach

Wed 17
Train to Santa Barbara
Overnight bus to Oakland

Thu 18
Arrive in Oakland
Local train to hotel

Fri-Sat 19
Hotel

Sun 21
Train and bus to Yosemite

Mon-Tue
Yosemite

Wed 24
Bus 5:55pm to Merced
Train to Bakersfield
Overnight Bus to San Diego

Thu 25
Last day in San Diego
Depart 6:30pm

 

[RobertB]

Just booked the Amtrak travel. The poor phone agent, though - everything went smoothly, I had all the train and bus numbers ready, but when she tried to put in my payment information, the system balked. It turns out that in order to use the transportation of the '50s, I have to use the payment of the '50s - I have to schlep down to the Dallas Amtrak station to pay. Makes perfect sense, right?

The agent said that in five years, she'd probably booked maybe five of these passes. It seems like smart marketing would be to trumpet these to out-of-state visitors who don't want to spend their trip "enjoying" the legendary California traffic jams.

But that shouldn't be a problem, paying downtown. The email I received has a Quik-Trak barcode, so I may be able to pay at my leisure (as long as my leisure gets me downtown by next Wednesday).

Of course, I can't make any changes without going through an agent, on the phone or in person. Which I know I'll have to do, because it's unclear what stop I should book for the Yosemite Bug. Their site says "Ask the driver on the last leg of the journey to drop you at the Bug," but it doesn't say what stop to book for. Or how to get that driver to pick you back up if you're standing on the side of the road. I'll post that info when I get it.

 

[NW cannonball]

Been following this thread - has been much help to me - hope your trip goes well.

 

[BCL]

I'm not sure Yosemite Bug is ideal for a bus traveler. It's well outside the park. I think YARTS stops there but it's not a scheduled stop with the Amtrak thruway buses. It's one of those places that's best serves people with their own cars.

I'd recommend staying within the park if possible. Once inside the shuttle is excellent and convenient.

 

[RobertB]

The Quik-Trak machine was able to read the barcode I received in the email, even though it was on my cell phone. It was able to accurately read it and tell me to take a flying leap - I can't pay for my reservation at the Quik-Trak. (I also tried entering the ticket ID and got the same message.) It was before station hours this morning, so nobody was available - my wife or I will have to make a special trip downtown today or tomorrow.

Can anyone think of *any* reason I shouldn't be able to pay for a reservation without inconveniencing an actual human? </rhetorical>

It's still a good deal... $318 for the pass, vs. $358 to book all the legs individually. Plus we can decide to make another run if it fits the schedule.

I haven't heard back from Yosemite Bug on what stop to book to/from. I asked the question on the reservation "comments", so I guess nobody has read it. I'll send them a direct email.

They have a shuttle to the park:

Take a shuttle every day inclusive of Park fee for $12. Yosemite Valley is easily self toured. If you take public transit you qualify for discounts on the cafe (10% off) and the spa ($7 entry).

... and the spa sounds so awesome, we may not even make it to the park every day.

 

[roadman3313]

The California Rail Pass is printed on normal ticket stock but it is placed in a California Rail Pass Holder that has the terms and conditions and spaced to be filled out each segment of the trip by the conductor or bus driver.

Having used the pass many times before I can't say anyone ever filled out any part of the pass holder (mainly because people didn't really know what to do) but any tickets you have are not valid without the pass and pass holder present. That's the main reason is that the agent needs to affix the pass to the pass holder to validate it.

With that said I've had agents confused about it before as it isn't something as common. I've had it affixed to a USA Rail Pass holder before and I've just had it handed to me. Just be sure when you receive the pass that it is affixed to a California Rail Pass sleave. If it isn't, be sure to ask it be affixed to one.

 

[SubwayNut]

I had a great trip staying in the Men's Dorm at the Yosemite Bug for two nights in February 2012. (My full Trip Report on YARTS) The Amtrak California bus stop is Amtrak Code MDP, the stops location is listed as the Yosemite Bug Hostel. The turnout the buses use have both YARTS and Amtrak California Bus stop signs although YARTS is the only service. I didn't book an Amtrak ticket to MDP on YARTS it was cheeper to buy my Amtrak tickets to Merced and simply pay cash to the driver for my YARTS fares instead of buying them through Amtrak. You will have a ten minute walk up the Bug's driveway from the bus stop to actually reach the hostel. The second night I got off the bus with a confused Korean traveler who was seemed very lost and confused by this.

In the middle day of my two nights at the bug I had an amazing day trip to the Yosemite Valley in the snow. The Bug is a wonderful hostel and I would happily go back by Amtrak Thruway Bus Again. It has a quite nice (but relatively inexpensive) restaurant with a rotating menu that I had dinner in both nights. The one thing the Bug Fails at and luckily I had some bread and oatmeal packets in my backpack is breakfast because the restaurant doesn't open until after the early buses (you'll want to take an early bus to maximize your day) leave.

One other plus for YARTS, there bus drivers are knowledgeable and chatty. I still remember interesting conversations with the drivers and some park employees while aboard.

 

[BCL]

MDP is Midpines. There's really not much around there other than Yosemite Bug, a few private homes, a KOA, and I think a couple of roadside businesses. Another possibility is to get to Mariposa (listed as both MRM and MRP). Not sure if that's an actual Amtrak bus stop or just YARTS. I think midtown Mariposa is YARTS and Mariposa is Amtrak, judging by the YARTS map that only has a midtown Mariposa stop.

 

[tomfuller]

The YARTS bus driver will stop at the bus shelter at the foot of the BUG hostel driveway if asked. http://www.yarts.com/service.html

There are no Amtrak California buses that run the route into Yosemite.

It is about 200 yards uphill from the bus stop to the office of the hostel. It could be a bit of a chore if your luggage is heavy or if it is raining.

It is more convenient if you have a rental car but is possible using the YARTS bus.

 

[BCL]

The YARTS bus driver will stop at the bus shelter at the foot of the BUG hostel driveway if asked. http://www.yarts.com/service.htmlThere are no Amtrak California buses that run the route into Yosemite.

It is about 200 yards uphill from the bus stop to the office of the hostel. It could be a bit of a chore if your luggage is heavy or if it is raining.

It is more convenient if you have a rental car but is possible using the YARTS bus.

This view shows what you're looking at:

http://maps.google.com/maps?q=yosemite+bug&hl=en&ll=37.578158,-119.954258&spn=0.010441,0.021286&sll=37.297016,-121.817413&sspn=0.670769,1.362305&hq=yosemite+bug&radius=15000&t=h&z=16&layer=c&cbll=37.578158,-119.954258&panoid=3KeVy8cbdOjZktzIKTKDSg&cbp=12,209.58,,0,7.53

While I won't say anything bad about Yosemite Bug, I think staying inside the park and waking up inside the park is an amazing experience and considerably more convenient. I spent five nights in Yosemite (backpacking three and bookending at the backpackers campground) and didn't start my car once during that period. Except for taking a shuttle to get to the trailhead, I wasn't particularly on anyone's schedule. Someone could have dropped me off by bus and I would have done well.

The times I've stayed in Yosemite (more than just that backpacking trip) I remember getting out of my tent first thing in the morning and looking at Half Dome as I boiled water for coffee. I've also been awakened by the sound of people screaming "BEAR!!!" and making all sorts of noise trying to get the bear away from food.

If I were going to do it the way the OP describes, I'd book going directly into Yosemite then take YARTS out for the night, although the last bus leaves Yosemite Lodge at 6 PM.

Still - I wonder if the OP is interested in the night or morning programs at Yosemite. There are some really good ones. I remember coffee with a ranger at 7:30 AM and doing several night programs including campfire programs. At the very least I'd consider bringing in the camping gear just in case you miss the last bus out. It might be possible to hitchhike out, although I'd be careful.

 

[RobertB]

Thanks for the additional great info!

My wife went to the Amtrak desk at Union Station in Dallas yesterday to pick up the tickets. The biggest hassle was that her driver's license had her old name on it, so the station agent had to change the name in the reservation to match.

The agent said this was the first time she had issued a California rail pass, and the idea got her to thinking about vacation plans for her and her husband. See what I mean - this is something that would have huge appeal for anyone who doesn't want to spend time and gas on their California trip.

Apparently, since nobody buys them, there aren't any California Rail Pass binders in Dallas. So she stapled a ticket (which says CALIFORNIA RAIL PASS) to the inside of a USA Rail Pass binder. Should I expect any problems? Is it ok that the only name on the ticket stapled to the binder is my wife's name? (Of course, the tickets for the individual legs are in each name.)

I figure I'll change the Merced - Yosemite Visitors Center tickets to terminate/originate at Midpines when we get to California. I'll allow enough time to work out any issues with the unexpected pass cover (thanks @roadman3313 for the info).

@tomfuller, when you say "There are no Amtrak California buses that run the route into Yosemite," do you mean that the bus from Merced to Midpines will be operated by YARTS, even though I'll board it with an Amtrak ticket?

 

[BCL]

@tomfuller, when you say "There are no Amtrak California buses that run the route into Yosemite," do you mean that the bus from Merced to Midpines will be operated by YARTS, even though I'll board it with an Amtrak ticket?

I believe that's what he means. This is apparently just a service with a discount. I priced how much it would be to take the San Joaquin from Emeryville to Merced, then Emeryville to MDP. To MDP cost $4 more, but the regular YARTS fare for Merced to Midpines is $12.

Amtrak thruway service varies by location. I've heard on some routes the transportation may not even be via dedicated Amtrak connections. They might just hire a charter bus/van, or even just hire a taxi. It sounds as if they consider the thruway service for this route to simply be YARTS.

The other thing to think about with YARTS is that it could be full. Their website mentions that on Run 9 (late afternoon) those going to Merced have priority over other passengers because they might need to make connections with "intercity transit providers". I'm thinking this means Amtrak, Greyhound, or a flight.

http://www.yarts.com/pdfs/fares.pdf

Passengers bound for Merced receive priority boarding on Run 9 in order to meet connections with Intercity transit providers.

 

[RobertB]

Very helpful - it's clear from the schedules at yarts.com that the Amtrak connection is simply the YARTS bus. I don't think I'll even need to bother changing my tickets, which are booked to and from the Yosemite Visitors Center (YOV).

We're due to arrive at Yosemite pretty late, because I didn't want us to be rushing to get to Oakland-OKJ on Sunday morning. We'll catch the 1:15pm San Joaquin, and get to the Yosemite area around 8pm. I'm pretty sure the driver won't object if we get off at the Bug (clearly marked on the YARTS route map) before our ticket suggests.

Going back, the departure from YOV is scheduled for 5:55pm. We'll just stay at Yosemite (with our stuff, which we'll be carrying on our backs anyway) until it's time to board the bus at the Visitors Center, and start the long trip back to San Diego.

And now I have a better understanding of how we get from Yosemite Bug to the park, via YARTS. The schedule shows that they take credit cards on the bus, and they have a deal where you can buy three days' passes for the price of two - just what we need.