Trip on Zephyr

Considering a trip on the CZ. Likely destination is Reno, NV.

Start in Dallas, so the questions are:

Should I fly to Chicago to start this trip, or Denver? Would I be mission out on good scenery/things to see on the leg from Chicago to Denver? I have been in Chicago, and saw CUS before the renovations, and it was nice, but I don't see a real need to go there again, unless I make it a few day stay.

On the other hand, what about Denver? What is there to see/do there for a day or so before the train leaves?

Flights to both are about the same cost from Dallas, so that is a wash.

I have heard the trip from Reno to the Bay Area is really nice, but I just do not see making that trip, and the extra cost of higher room rates and transportation while there making that worthwhile. Would rather stay in Reno, although I have thought about a day trip in coach on the CZ to the Bay Area and return the next day.

Or, if time allows, maybe a couple days in Reno, and a couple days in Bay Area, then fly back from there, instead of Reno.

Want to do this before CZ gets all screwed up with no diner, route changes, etc.

Can I get y'all's thoughts?

PS: sleeper to Reno. All legs on points, including flights on SWA points.

Great scenery pretty much ends in Denver (or begins). I just did it west to east and west of Denver was AWESOME. After that it was just a lot of farm land. Still enjoyable and relaxing but still kind of boring.

While not as beautiful as the rest of the rockies, the trip down into Denver was probably the most interesting part of the trip. You could easily see all of the switch backs headed down the mountain. What was also impressive was the sharp contrast of the flat land near Denver meeting the mountains. Very impressive.

It would be a toss up of winter vs summer. If winter I would make sure I went during snow season. Summer has the advantage of longer days. A real benefit on my trip since we were already late going into Denver.

The CZ east of Denver is fine. It's nothing to write home about, though some of the farmland is reasonably pleasant. In other words, definitely don't bother taking the California Zephyr from Chicago for the scenery. It is a very nice ride from Reno to the Bay Area, but if you can't make that work, you're still not missing out on any of the best scenery.

If you're up for renting a car, Denver is a 2-3 hour (IIRC) drive from Rocky Mountain National Park--really spectacular scenery. And Boulder is a nice town for walking and gawking, as well as a good base for exploring the mountains nearby.

The best scenery by far is between Denver and Reno, and I would opt for Reno for cheaper rooms. I very much enjoy the train rides, and love San Francisco, so that would weigh in favour of SF to stay, even at the extra hotel costs. I have used Reno, Sacramento, Emeryville and SF itself at the western end of different Zephyr rides.

Nice to have such great options to choose from!

Ed.

Sacramento is a semi decent option too. No where near as good as San Fransisco but still a good choice. I stayed at the Vagabond. From the outside you would want to avoid the hotel. The rooms are worn and outdated too but those are minor issues.

The hotel is very clean. The beds seem to be fairly new and very comfortable. The staff extremely polite and helpful. This is all of the important stuff to me.

Bonus is the hotel is directly across the street from the train station. And within walking distance of Old Town and the train museum. The train museum is spectacular and well worth seeing. There are a few other buildings operated by the park service. Most if not all are free to visit. The train station building has a locomotive or two and some old cars. . They also have various pieces like old luggage and such.

The only downsides of the Vagabond location is the proximity of the freeway. But just be sure to ask for "a room in the back" and you will be fine. Also other than Old Town, there is not much in the way of restaurants or stores around the hotel.

If you do your end in Sacramento, be sure to block some time for the California State railroad museum located in the old town section. That is definitely worth it, the exhibits are remarkable and well curated. I think going over the Sierras would be worth going further than Reno myself, and transit from Sacramento to SF / Oakland for return flights isn't a major issue if you don't fly direct from Sacramento.

For the OP (and me for that matter ) What is the better direction? Eastbound or west? Or doesn't it really matter on this train?

To spinnaker both directions offer great scenery. To the OP I really like Chicago. So much to do in the city. I travel west to east each fall and always spend a day or two in Chicago. Have spent time in Denver and its nice but doesn't compare to Chicago for me. And I personally like the rolling hills and the farmlands across the country to Denver. Its soothing to me. Denver thru the mountains is also great scenery and cant be beat for a LD trip.

If not on a tight a budget San Francisco has much to offer. Hard to enjoy for just a day though.

Westbound the CZ leaves Denver in the morning - 8:05 am departure if on time.

The front range ascent is sunlit if it isn't cloudy. By the time you pop out the west end of the Moffatt Tunnel and start down the western slope the sun is well up.

For photography/video/sightseeing the light quality (if no clouds) and direction is best westbound.

Sundown happens as the train is heading north between Green River UT and Helper, UT. The train turns north shortly after leaving Green River.

Eastbound the CZ reaches Denver in the early evening - 6:38 pm if on time.

The front range descent is mostly in shadow or it's night depending on the dates you ride the CZ.

Sunup happens as the train is heading south between Helper, UT and Green River UT. The train is heading east atby Green River.

If youve never done it, I would suggest going on from Reno through the Sierras. San Franciscos lovely but quite expensive. I did a round trip from Denver and decided to turn around in Davis, CA, which I enjoyed. If you're only going one way, its probably not a great place to get a flight home so Sacramento or San Francisco might be better.

(Edited several times to try and add apostrophes where theyre missing but it doesnt seem to want me to. )

Amy in TX said:

If youve never done it, I would suggest going on from Reno through the Sierras.

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Wait, the Sierras are west of Reno (would have sworn it was east)? In that case, I strongly advise the OP to continue on to San Fran (find a way!), since the Sierras were almost certainly my favorite part of the trip.

Reno is West of the Rockies, directly East of the Sierras.

As was said, you really should consider riding between Denver and California on the Zephyr.

As nice as the Rockies are between Denver and Grand Junction, some of us think the Scenery West of Reno is even better than that.

Staying in Sacramento @ the Vagabond is,an excellent idea,but another alternative is the wonderful Hostel located in a Victorian Mansion in Sacramento.

Davis is also a really nice little College town, and you can easily commute to the Bay Area on the Capitol Corridor Trains and BART .( same thing from Sacramento).

If you want to explore Denver, it won't take long, I've always considered it overrated for its size and reputation, and it is getting pricey and crowded IMO.

Also,there is a fantastic little Mountain town just West of Denver called Glenwood Springs. Google it up and you might decide to stay on the Zephyr and spend a couple of days there exploring this Gem.

PVD said:

Reno is West of the Rockies, directly East of the Sierras.

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But west of Los Angeles.

BTW, if the OP has time constraints, there are good Capitol Corridor/Thruway connections to Reno from Sacramento -- more options than the once a day Zephyr. The ride up I-80 is nice too. The Zephyr's route is nicer, but the drive isn't bad at all.

Railing along the Truckee River between Reno and Truckee is quite scenic.

I really like the westbound climb out of Truckee along Cold Creek up Emigrant Canyon towards Mt Judah that switches back at the Emigrant Canyon (Horsehoe) curve 5 rail miles from Truckee.

Three miles further (look down at the tracks the train just ascended) and many feet higher towards the Schallenberger Ridge the tracks enter a tunnel under Schallenberger Ridge that pops out above China Cove on Donner Lake.

https://www.google.com/maps/place/Truckee,+CA+96161/@39.3021798,-120.2526963,2893m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m5!3m4!1s0x809bdfec3c4e8dd7:0x6d172f88c134fcc9!8m2!3d39.327962!4d-120.1832533

Always think about that area when I am waiting for a table at a restaurant : Donner, Party of 10 -sorry sir can you make that party of 6....

PVD said:

Always think about that area when I am waiting for a table at a restaurant : Donner, Party of 10 -sorry sir can you make that party of 6....

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A docent from the California Train Museum told us about a a train that was stuck in the Sierra Nevada's around 1954 or so. They had to be there for 4 days. You know the Donner story had to be running through their brains.

And the docent narrative is another benefit of starting in Sacramento. I think it ends in Reno.

I shudder whenever I hear the name "Donner Pass", but for a different reason....

Back when I drove over it on I-80 in the winter, the CHP vigorously enforced the "chains on" or "chains off" posted signs. Sometimes you would have to add and remove chains several times on a crossing.

Sure don't miss that...

My sister used to live in the Bay Area, and has a friend with a place in Tahoe. That was the way they drove. Not in the winter too often. Now it's a PHX-RNO flight.

Thanks to all. Looks like beginning the westbound trip in Denver would be best for us. Will look at possibility of taking CZ from Reno to Sacramento as a side trip, then flying home from there.

Surely will have more questions later!

Three years ago my wife and I were riding the Coast Starlight from California to Portland, connecting to the Empire Builder heading to Montana. The train was several hours late by the time we reached the Oregon/Northern California border in the early morning, so Amtrak planned to bus all connecting passengers between Klamath Falls and Spokane -- a multiple hour trip we had no interest in taking (we had roomettes all the way.) We immediately got on the phone and called customer service. They booked us on the next day's Empire Builder out of Portland and upgraded us to a bedroom. We spent the night in Portland on our own dime and had a great time. I think we booked the last Empire Builder room, too ...

The Blizzard of 1952.

http://www.cprr.org/Museum/Stranded_Streamliner_1952/

KmH said:

The Blizzard of 1952.

http://www.cprr.org/Museum/Stranded_Streamliner_1952/

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Another great story in the remarkable history of the SP...thanks for posting it!

Is there still a full diner on the Zephyr?