Rocky Mountaineer-red leaf

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This was a much anticipated trip, and it lived up to expectations!

December 26. Courtesy of some frequent flyer miles from my dad, I flew from Chicago to Seattle in business class on United. A very merry Christmas present . Thanks Dad! The flight left on time, and was uneventful. In seattle, I had a car rental from Herts, and just like on TV, my name was in lights and I was under in minutes. Nice full size car with a rockin sound system. My rap CD's explored the far reaches of the bass capabilities of the speakers as I drove down I-5. Obviously, my first choice would be by train, but the idea of a day long trip from Seattle to Vancouver that included a bus ride did not get it done this time. Amtrak needed to Talgo trips a day to meet my needs. But the drive was nice. I stopped for lunch at a sea food restaurant in Everett. The only hitch was an hour long wait at the Canadian border. Made a quick stop at the train station in Vancouver to review drop of arrangemnets for the next morning. Hertz has a location at the station, and there is a parking spot directly in front of the door for customers to park their car. The key and document drop of is in the station. A great arrangement for me.

I stayed at the Marriott Pinnacle, about 2 miles from the station. A great hotel with great service. I ended Friday evening with a dinner of buffalo wings at Hooters, and then a cruise across the lion's gate bridge to north Vancouver. All in all, a great day of traveling and getting away from it all.

Dec. 27 Saturday.

Early morning room service breakfast, and a quick drive to the VIA station. That parking spot in front of the station was appreciated, as it was raining lightly. After dropping of the keys and rental agreement, I lined up to check in. My main concern was getting a window seat. I had numerous conversations with various reservation agents from Rocky Mountain rail tours where I had asserted my desire for a window seat. Christmas carolers serenaded the waitning passengers. I'm checked in and I have a window seat in the CB 4 car. I am also handed my voucher for the hotel stop for this evening in Kamloops. The big selling point for the Rocky Mountaineer train is that the train travels through scenery during daylight hours, and then stops in Kamlloops,B.C. for the evening.

The train boards promptly at 7:00 A.M. I hurry down the platform to the CB-4 car. I later learn that CB means Calgary Banfff. There is also a section of the train that runs to Jasper during the summer, but not on this day. I do have a window seat on the left side. Moments later, Tina, the car attendant visits with me to introduce herself. I ask her if we are running on the CP today, or the CN. An important question. If we run CP, I will lbe looking at the canyon wall of the Fraser river Canyon for most of the morning, If CN, then I am lucky. When Tina confirms that we are running on the CP, I ask if there are window seats open on the right side. Tiina is amazed at my knowledge of the route, and aI show her my Bill Coo scenic rail gude to Western Canada. This is a souvineer from a 1984 trip on the real Canadian. It provides a detailed account of the route, and I had been reading this book every day since I booked this trip. Tina pointed out a vacant seat, and encouraged me to switch sides at will. With this easy going manner, Tina has already earned her self a 40 dollar tip.

On the trip from Vancouver to Banff, I traveled in Red Leaf class. This consist of the old CN coaches that had been used for transcontinental travel. The seats are faded, but more comfortable than anything that Amtrak has. The windows are large, clean, and untinted. Railfan Nirvana. Meals are served at the seat. Since this is the seasonal Christmas train, I will receive warms meals served at my seat. The meals are cooked in a gold leaf dome car that is positioned at the front fo the train. Attendants cary the food back to the cars to feed to passengers. This does not seem terribly efficient, but the meals arrive warm, and the service is always friendly. Soft driinks and snacks and meals are included in the fare. The meals were OK, I liked the snakcs the best. I consumed serveral bags of "odds and bits" or some pleasantly british named produce that consited of pretzels, cheeze sticks, and other nice tasty salty things. Tina was never stingy. At one point she gave me two bags at once.

Another plus, riding in the vestibule is permitted. The dutch doors remained open throughout the entire trip. I wished it had been warmer, but I did get some quality vestibule time on both days.

Rocky Mountain rail tours provides a news paper that clearly maps the routes of its operations, and also has a route guide that describes the scenic high-lights. The train started off on a CN routing out of Vancouver. We crossed the Fraser river on a bridge that normally sees freight traffic, and then continued on the south shore of the Fraser until reaching another point to cross back over the Fraser to reach the CP route which follows the north shore, and later the west shore . The CN route is follows the opposite shore for the Fraser. It seams the CP typically handles traffic flowing away from Vancouver, and CN handles traffic flowing to Vancouver. so essentially to single track railroads collaborate to create a double track railroad throught the rugged fraser river Vallley. The Rocky Mountaineer provides a front row seat to this action.

As we progressed east from Vancouver, the sun came out, providing a golden glow to the valley. I alternated between my seat and the vestibule all moring. The air was cold, but fresh. I enjoyed the smells of pine trees and the sounds the train crossing bridges, squeeling through curves, and rumbling over switches at passing sidings. At one point the CP and CN switch sides of the Canyon on bridges that soar above the rapids of the Fraser river. Frequenlty I saw freight trains heading towards VAncouver on the opposite side of the canyon.

About five P.M. , the train arrived Kamloops which is aobut 260 miles from Vancouver. Busses are parked on the platform, and passengers are only required to take a dozen steps to transfer to the bus. The bus dirver loads the suitcaes on the lower part of the bus. After a short ride, we arrive at the hotel. The check in process is quick, with each guest receiving the envelope with key card with their name already typed on the envelope. The hotel was comfortable, and clean. The TV had cable, and I enjoyed watching the first half of the Washington-Philadalphia NFL game.

Included in the price of the Christmas trian packiage is dinner at the Two Rivers theater, or something named liked that. This was a very mediocre buffett in a bangquet room setting. The play, a comedy, covers the activities of the train robber, Billy MIner. The entertainment is somewhat corny, but over all it was OK. I would not pay extra for this though.

The next morning, the buses called for use about 6 A.M. We headed off into the rugged Canadian Rockies. The first hour was coverd in darkness. Later, the train passed along the shores of Shuswap lake. The surrounding mountains and hills are shrouded in clouds. When the train is not following the shores of a lake, it is twisting and turning along a frozen mountain stream. As the train ascends Roger's pass, the snow cover deepens. The pine tree branches sag downward with snow. Railroad buidlings and structures are covered with mounds of snow. At Golden, we make a suprise stop, and Santa Boards the train to pass out scarves with the Canada symbol, the maple leaf on it. A nice touch.

As we approach Field, it looks like I am going to have my cake and eat it too. When I booked the trip, I thought that we might pass through kicking horse pass in darness. At this point it is till light. I also note that we will probably arrive Banff in time for me to watch the Ravens=steeler's game and Jamaal Lewis's efforts to break the season rushing record for the NFL. However, the CP dispatcher in Calgary has differnt plans. We sit for 40 minutes becaue of freight traffic. I hope for half-time highlights and a close game for the second half.

A dusk crossing of Kicking Horse Pass experienced from the vestibule is spectacular. The sky is perfectly clear, and the mountains are clearly outlined against a golden sky. The air is frigid. It is still possible to follow the train's progress up the pass through two spiral tunnels, over bridges, and along mountain ledges.

We arrive in Banff, and I do make the hotel in time for half time highlights and a good footbal game. Overall, this is an excellent trip for a railfan.
 
Steve,

Great report, thanks! :)

One queston though, how did you get home? Did you fly back or take another train? :unsure:
 
AlanB said:
Steve,
Great report, thanks! :)

One queston though, how did you get home? Did you fly back or take another train? :unsure:
I rode the same train back to Vancouver, but rode in Gold Leaf. Then i flew home from Vancouver. The next installment will follow. Sorry about that, but the Rose Bowl was starting. :D
 
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