India train tour 2016... Part 2

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caravanman

Engineer
Joined
Mar 22, 2004
Messages
4,800
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Nottingham, England.
IS THAT A 5 DOLLAR SHAKE YOU JUST ORDERED?


H. Nizamuddin station serves the south of Delhi, and it is where my Rajdhani from Trivandrum terminates.
Porters jump aboard the train even before it has come to a stop, and try to get your business. I was happy to accept the offer... there is a steep bridge to negotiate to reach the taxi rank. Haggling is required to get a fair price... The porter started at Rs 300, and we settled on Rs 100, probably still more than I should have paid, but worth it to me.
A taxi offer before we even get to the footbridge is a bit unofficial, once we get out of the station he suggests Rs 700 to get to my hotel near New Delhi station. A slightly long negotiation includes him suggesting I go to a different hotel, he will take me for "Indian price only" and he will get commission... (who will foot the bill for his commission I wonder quietly to myself?)
I got a taxi last year for Rs 250, so I was not going to pay more. Eventually he gave up on me, and one of the crowd of “helpers” said “I will take you for Rs 250” Great I think, I have won this small battle! Not so! He turns out to be an Auto Rickshaw driver, not a taxi. So I paid a taxi price in the end, for an Auto Rickshaw. India wins again!
Not a problem, I find auto rickshaw trips to be slightly terrifying, but never boring.
The drivers do have an amazing ability to find any tiny road space, to squeeze between cars and buses, and although it all seems chaotic, it kind of works well, mostly...

I was pleased to remember the location of the hotel, and after guiding the driver through the bazaar road, we arrived in due course. (Odd to be in due course, we were heading for Delhi...)
Check in straightforward, just the usual passport forms and signatures. “Pay when you check out”. Suits me!
I was shown an unsuitable room at first, but the second was much better... I can get the full benefit of the passing traffic honking every 30 seconds, in case I doze off...
Only joking, I tend to get used to the “neighbourhood hubbub” which recedes into the background almost unnoticed, except for the occasional shrill blast or a louder shout than normal.
The gent who shows me to my room asks if I require any beer, and I think, “why not?”, and order a couple of cold Kingfisher beers to put in the fridge for later. 10 minutes later, I feel much refreshed, having liberated the first one.
Arriving on Sunday evening, I just bought some bottled water and chilled out in the hotel.

Most museums and major monuments are closed on Mondays.
I took a walk through the main bazaar road up towards New Delhi train station, as I wanted to book some additional trips. I love all the variety of small shops selling brightly coloured tat. I called in to a money changer, but he wanted to deal in an unlighted dingy office, so I backed away from him. My second attempt was better, and I changed some sterling for only 13% less than I would have got before “Brexit”... Grrrr !

I was asked for my ticket by someone as I got near the station, and I recognised some scam in the offing. I simply told him to “F*** Off” and walked on. Good job he was not a plain clothes policeman!
Got my tickets sorted out at the tourist department, it was fairly busy which was a surprise, as it is still quite early in the tourist season.
I assisted several lost souls who did not know about taking a numbered ticket, and filling in the “carefully placed out of sight” forms. I only knew myself from my visit last year.
A great service to one and all would be a “greeter” who could point folk in the right direction from their arrival at the department.
Funny though, the folk I helped just ignored later arrivals, even though it was obvious they needed the same guidance... They probably thought it was this weird old bloke’s job!

I walked from the station into the centre of Delhi, Connaught Place, and tried to shelter from the sun under the colonnades of Mr. Lutyens grand design. I had a good walk around and then thought of food. I noticed a branch of the united coffee houses and stepped inside. Last year I ate at another branch, and became ill... I honestly don’t know that it was from that meal or not, but felt I needed to confront my fears of getting ill again head on.
I was expecting a snacky type place again, but this was very up market, with lovely chilly air conditioning.
Very varied menu, but rather pricey too. I had a most enjoyable meal, in the company of much posher folk than me, and of course, I did not get ill... I hope to go back again tomorrow.
I only had a small meal, and a bottle of water, very nice, but it cost almost as much as a night in my hotel... which is where the title of this comes in, from the film “Pulp Fiction”
when John Travolta is stunned by the price of a milk shake !

A well fed stroll back to the hotel and a few hours chilling. I had another wander around the streets nearby later, snapping many pics of all and sundry, then back to the hotel for a fairly early night.

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Today I went to the National Rail Museum, by auto rickshaw. My third visit, I love the old relics rusting away in the sunshine! One can almost see how the mechanical beasts worked, the rods and cylinders, the engineering... Rather different from today’s sleek trains.

Another reason for this visit was to purchase the elusive Great Indian Railway Atlas, which I am pleased to say I accomplished.... Hmmm, now, where shall I go next... ?

Tomorrow I anticipate a small amount of culture, and a large lunch !

Cheers for reading, more to follow, after it happens...
 
Keep 'me coming Eddie!( "..and that $5 Shake, it doesn't have Bourbon in it or anything?.. " )

Your descriptions are so real I can hear the noise, feel the commotion and smell the smells!
 
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Ed. Samit Roychoudhury, the author of the Great Indian Railway Atlas (currently Third Edition, 2015) is a very good friend of mine. When the next edition comes out remind me that you would like one, in case I forget. I will get an additional pre-official publication issue for a discount for you when I get mine. Actually many of us of IRFCA have contributed bits and pieces of details to it. A must have if you are a rail aficionado traveling in India.

BTW, the area that everyone still calls Connaught Place, named after the 1st Duke of Connaught and Strathearn, is now officially the inner circle is called Rajiv Chowk, named after Rajiv Gandhi, and the outer circle is called Indira Chowk, named after his mother Indira Gandhi. That is why the Metro station is called Rajiv Chowk.

Is your hotel in Pahar Ganj by NDLS (New Delhi Station)? Indian Railways has two, three or four letter station codes. New Delhi Junction happens to be NDLS.
 
The closest would be Souk as in the middle east, Piazza in Italy, Plaza or Place in the west.

One could use it for Square too I suppose, but Rajiv and Indira Chowks are both circular in shape. They were originally created as the center of New Delhi for commercial part of it. The actual government capital is centered around the circular Parliament House (Sansad Bhavan) and the President's Mansion (Rashtrapati Bhavan).

Rajiv Chowk and the Parliament are connected by Sansad Marg (Parliament Street). Heading straight South from Connaught Place is Janpath (People's Boulevard). This crosses at right angles with Rajpath (Emperor's Boulevard) at one end of Rajpath is Rashtrapati Bhavan, and at the other end is India Gate. All the big ceremonial parades take place on Rajpath the most prominent one being the Republic Day Parade. Interstingly, most of the Independence Day festivities take place in Old Delhi around the ramparts of Shah Jahan's Red Fort, from where Prime Minister Nehru delivered his Address to the Nation on the Independence Day and the Union Jack was lowered to be replaced by the Tricolor back in 1947 (before I was born). Anyway, all this in New Delhi was laid out by Lutyens around 1912, and construction continued until 1930..
 
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I've never, to my knowledge, been to anything designed by Lutyens. He's quite an interesting architect - very brilliant yet mannered designs.

One of my best friends travels to Delhi regularly for business, but mostly to a gleaming suburban office park rather than the government center, but our planned tour of India never materializes.
 
Your descriptions are so real I can hear the noise, feel the commotion and smell the smells!
Ed seems to do a good job with these things. For whatever reason I've never been interested in India as a travel destination for myself, but I still find these reports entertaining. I kind of wish they were in one bigger thread rather than a bunch of smaller threads, but maybe that's just me.
 
Your descriptions are so real I can hear the noise, feel the commotion and smell the smells!
Ed seems to do a good job with these things. For whatever reason I've never been interested in India as a travel destination for myself, but I still find these reports entertaining. I kind of wish they were in one bigger thread rather than a bunch of smaller threads, but maybe that's just me.
I happen to agree with you on all counts, Jim and Chris (?). It's easier to comment only once, then follow the thread all the way to the end... and follow it I do! I am an armchair traveler for the most part, and don't plan to ever head to Asia, so it's very fun for me to follow along on Ed's journeys. His prose brings the locales that I will never see to life (I plan to mostly stick to visiting family across the country by Amtrak, plus such occasional adventures as my sister may choose to invite me along for).
 
Hi Folks,

Thanks for the feedback... I am not sure how to make my "blog" work best for folk. I like to read similar things myself, end to end, in chronological order. I find most blog platforms put the latest additions first, at the top of the page, which I find awkward to read in correct order...

I can delay frequent posting 'till the trip is over and just give one report at the end, that might work best? I will in any case be creating a frequent update travelogue on Indiamike as I move around, but folk will have to just dip in to that, as I can't notify you of updates.

Once the Indiamike thing is set up, I will give the link to my page. :)

Jis, I understand that India has renamed former streets, and cities, and quite right too... As an old dog, I find it easier to work with the old names, no insult is intended. I am pleased that the railway still use the former codes, as in CAPE, etc.

I am in Pahar Ganj, just off the Main Bazaar road. My hotel is called "Cottage Yes Please", goodness knows why?

(No comments about cottaging required!)

I have not seen any of your posts on IRFCA, Jis, do you still contribute to the forum? A more straight laced forum than A.U. I find, with fierce moderators... if that is not a contradiction in terms. :)

Cheers,

Ed
 
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Ed. I think it would be fine if you just posted your travelogue as a series of posts in a single thread, like say this one.

Actually old names are perfectly acceptable in most cases, and really no one cares which is used. For example colloquially what is now called B B D Bagh is still referred to as Dalhousie Square in Kolkata, and what is Lenin Sarani is still referred to as Dharamtala. And very few people call Chowranghee by its new name Jawaharlal Nehru Sarani.

Yeah, there has been no change in station codes even though the station name may have changed. the code for Mumbai Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminal is still BBVT. :) AFAIK the only two letter code in use is IB, for a station named Ib!

I don't participate much in the IRFCA discussion forums. Gets too hoighty toighty and as a result is moderated with a very heavy hand. Not fun. OTOH, I was one of the first 6 that created IRFCA and held its first ever convention in 1991 or so in Long Branch NJ. So I still keep in touch and do contribute to the IRFCA knowledge base, specially in updating historical information for the period 1960 - 1980. I do attend their annual gathering if I am in India at the time. I met Samit through IRFCA in their Kolkata Meeting about 7 or so years back as I recall.

Have a great rest of your trip. Looking forward to the next round from you. :)
 
Hi Jis,

Thanks for the reply, I kind of assumed you were somehow involved in the IRFCA, but did not realise you were one of the founding members.

As you say, it can be less fun than A.U. ;)

I am pleased with my 2015 edition of the Rail Atlas, very detailed indeed.

If you can snag me a cheaper copy of the next edition, it will give me another reason to come back to USA, to collect it. :)

I am off to Chennai tomorrow, A/C 2, side upper berth, which I think has to be the least convenient berth. Somewhat unsure of where to put my luggage, if the lower berth is in seat configuration during the day.

I am on the Grand Trunk express, which I know has little to do with elephants...

Next report from Chennai, methinks!

Ed.
 
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I think it would be fine if you just posted your travelogue as a series of posts in a single thread, like say this one.
Yeah, that would work well. The only thing that might make it better are some more photos. Dunno if you have the bandwidth but even just one or two more per update could do wonders.
 
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I am off to Chennai tomorrow, A/C 2, side upper berth, which I think has to be the least convenient berth. Somewhat unsure of where to put my luggage, if the lower berth is in seat configuration during the day.

I am on the Grand Trunk express, which I know has little to do with elephants...
Yeah corridor side upper berth is not my favorite. During the day time, I guess you just place the luggage on the upper berth while you sit down below. At night they can go under the lower berth. I have tended to carry a lock and chain to chain lock my baggage to some solid structure, just in case someone gets a little sticky finger or such while everyone is asleep.

Grand Trunk Express is a historic train, curiously named since it does not follow the route of the even more historic Grand Trunk Road which traces its history back to 3rd Century BC and the Maurya Empire.

But back to Grand Trunk Express ... colloquially known as GT or GT Express. It originally ran from Peshawar in NWFP (now the territory of Khybar Pkhtunkhwa in Pakistan), all the way to Mangalore, and was introduced in 1929 by the Madras and Southern Mahratta Railway. Its run has since been shortened in stages to ultimately the point today where it runs from Delhi to Chennai. So you are riding on a historic train, the first to reliably connect north and south India together. It also ran through long swaths of non-British territory ruled by various kings, nawabs and others who all eventually owed allegiance to the British rulers in Delhi through the various "Paramountcy Agreements". These were dropped on 15th August 1947 and they were free to do whatever. All were eventually herded into India along this route. The remnants of that mess presents itself as the Kashmir problem today..
 
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I also like the series of posts in a single thread--I can pick up reading about the adventure from wherever I left off.

Ed, you do have a talent for making readers feel they are there, enjoying a great adventure! :)

Like oregon pioneer, I am enjoying reading about somewhere I probably will never travel to.

(I'm also enjoying the occasional history lesson, thanks to jis! :) )
 
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I decided to just post on in this thread for now.. sorry no pics, camera got pinched :(

Currently in Chennai, where I hope to buy a replacement.

WHEN WORLDS COLIDE...

Tuesday, when I went to the rail museum, I was taken there and back by an auto rickshaw driver who quoted a sensible fare to start with... When buying, I do feel concern about being seen as a “mug”, although probably all tourists are seen as such. It is something to do with my self-esteem I think, rather than any need to save a few rupees. I try to watch others buying fruit, etc, and look what they pay, to establish a base price, then feel happy to pay a little more as “tourist tax”, but not 3 or 4 times more.
Anyway, the same driver is outside my hotel this morning, so we set off for Chandni Chowk, just opposite the red fort, a popular market type area of Old Delhi with a variety of shops.
Huge flocks of goats and a few sheep are tethered at the roadside, with the sellers sitting nearby. I did not see much buying and selling, but I guess business gets brisker towards lunchtime...

I had a look in the gates of the Jamid Masjid mosque, said to be the largest in India, and was amused to see a “Saga Tours” old folks luxury tour bus outside... Their air conditioned chariot looked quite appealing as I walked by on foot.
Narrow twisting lanes run back and forth here, with certain types of businesses all in one lane, such as silversmiths, shoe merchants, etc. Maybe it keeps prices stable, as you don’t have far to go to compare them... On the other hand it could make it easier for a “cartel” of similar firms to maintain higher prices?
I like “quirky” souvenirs, and was rather taken by a shop selling the most tacky, plastic table coverings, many with lurid fruit designs. I did not buy, but later in my trip I plan to come back to Delhi, so may well do so then.

I had bought and eaten a couple of bananas earlier, and was now ready for lunch, so back to the United Coffee House. As I got down from the auto, a couple of touty chaps tried to steer me away from my goal with miscellaneous offers, but without success... I need food, now!

Slightly earlier than before, only the downstairs section is open.
I chose a Malaysian style dish and very nice too, lots of crunchy veg in a peanuty sauce with rice. I tend to mostly think traditional local Indian dishes will work out better in India, but this was very good food.

I had just left the restaurant and walked on when a touty gent began pointing behind me. Looking around, I was astonished to hear a chap say “I think I may know you, are you Ed, from India Mike” ?

Turns out I was in the company of Lachie, “Unclelach” from an Indian travel forum called "India Mike"
I was rather surprised by this meeting, a genuine case of “worlds colliding”, the virtual world of I.M. and the real world of Delhi's Connaught Place !

I explained that I was just on my way to change some money, so we walked to the same place I had used a few days ago, avoiding "advice" from touts once more. I disappeared up some dark stairs, while Lachie stood “shotgun” outside. :)

Lachie is a frequent visitor to India, and had just arrived the night before from travels in other exotic places.

We adjourned to a coffee shop and sat for a while, chatting and swapping travellers tales, as one does. I found Lachie a very interesting and entertaining chap, and was able to pick up a few tips on places to stay for future visits. I took a photo of the two of us together to prove that I was not dreaming the meeting, but sadly my camera got nicked a couple of days later, so you will have to take my word for these events!

Next day was leaving day, I arranged a late check out as my train was departing at 6.40 PM, and meanwhile took a stroll up to the New Delhi station again to book more trains.
I bought a small bottle of scented oil, in order to smell a little less musty on my two night train ride to Chennai!

Re-packed and checked out, I refuse to pay Rs100 for the short auto ride up to the station. A bystander suggests a cycle rickshaw, so I go for that instead.
“Pay what you like” he says, then gets down and a young kid strains at the pedals to cart me to the station. Feel embarrassed by this ride, but I guess it is money earned.
Porters at the station offer to carry my bags to the platform for Rs 100, but I decline, thinking to use the escalators... Serves me right for letting some young kid strain on that cycle rickshaw, now the escalators are not working, so it is a very heavy slog up one step at a time, to the footbridge, and the same down to the platform again. Instant Kharma !

More news soon!

Ed.
 
The "touts" in India remind me of those that used to work the Border Towns in Mexico before the Cartels ruined the tourist business.

As for your camera being ripped off, sorry to hear that Eddie, always enjoy your pics!

Looking forward to further episodes of an Englishman in India!
 
Touts are a part of life here, I don't take them too seriously. In fact I tend to discount any unasked for advice, as there will probably be some ulterior motive. Some first time visitors can be sitting ducks for them, sadly.

I have started to collate all my India trip updates into my "journal", which can be reached through the blue "signature" link at the base of each of my AU posts, so they can be read in one go, if so desired.

Cheers for now,

Ed.
 
I too, am sorry about your camera, however, I will now have to picture your travels in my minds eye. I am looking forward to hearing about Chennai.
 
Continuing on from above...


Coming down the stairs onto the New Delhi platform, I knew which platform to be on, but had no idea which end of the train my coach would be at.
Unfortunately, some of the overhead indicators were not working, which confused me further!
I managed to sort it out, and grabbed a photo of the train as it pulled in.
The Grand Trunk Express, named after an historic north south route, was such an evocative name that I wanted to ride this train, even though there are newer, faster expresses in the timetables.
My coach was a HC1 which is a two part coach, containing both first and second class sections... I was in 2nd class!
The coach had seen better days, although the first class section looked quite a bit nicer than my section.
I had a side berth, together with a top bunk, which was not great from an age or luggage storage point.
I asked the ticket inspector if there were lower bunks available, and he said to ask again in the morning, nothing available before then.
Dinner was available at Rs100, which I accepted. Quite a good meal of rice, chapatti, dahl, and a paneer and chickpea dish.
My side berth companion, who had the lower berth, had pre-ordered a meal to be delivered to the train at a certain stop. His meal looked good, and he said it cost Rs 250, I don’t know if that included any delivery charge, or that was extra.
Feeling well fed and rather tired I decided to turn in, so I made up my bed with the two clean sheets and the blanket provided. I locked my cases to the base of the lower berth, loops are provided for this purpose. I don’t always bother with doing this, but being in a side berth, it was more in view of anyone passing along the corridor than in a regular berth. Climbing up, I decided to have a listen to some music, so fished out my headphones and mp3 player from my little bag of “valuables”, I closed the curtains and drifted off to sleep. :)

Waking up at some point later I was aware that the curtains had been moved, and was stunned to see my bag of important stuff was missing! At first I could not take it in, I could not believe such a disaster had really happened... but it had.
I was unsure what to do, my first worry was for my blood pressure medications, among others. Should I alight early and try to buy some, or just carry on to Chennai? Would I be ok not to take the tablets for another 36 hours, could I even get them in India?
I had also lost my camera and photo’s taken on the trip so far, my good smart phone, my less good Tesco phone, as well as all my rail tickets, my notebooks, pens, my brand new Great Indian Rail Atlas, even my signature sun hat. Doubt if Unclelach would recognise me without it now!
On the plus side, I still had my suitcase of dirty washing securely fastened beneath the berth.
I decided to continue on the train, and hoped the interruption to my medical regime would not create problems. I was aware that Nick from I.M. lived in Chennai, I was scheduled to meet him during my visit, and felt that he would be the best person to give me advice on where to obtain my medications on arrival.
I slept again and awoke in the morning to a pretty deserted train, I am not sure when most passengers got down, it seems that this train is not often taken end to end, but passengers board for shorter sections. I think I was the only person in my coach to start in Delhi and leave at Chennai!
I chose the omelette and bread option for breakfast, quite nice, priced Rs.40 I had several cups of coffee at Rs10 a time. The “cups” are quite small ! Lunch and dinner were similar meals to yesterdays evening meal, and were priced at Rs100 each. Mid afternoon a group of lads boarded. I find it hard to judge ages, but think they were probably early 30’s. The Ticket Inspector asked me to change berths to a lower inside one, which suited me, in order that all six lads could be in the same area. Much shouting, card playing, gambling, and general high spirits from that group did little to lift my spirits, but instead added to my low mood.
Although I was shocked by this loss, this turn of events, my mood did start to improve. I was quite surprised to find a carefree mood developing, a sort of “nothing left to lose” so chill out feeling!
There is a feeling of insulation afforded me with my bag full of western medications. Not having them for a few hours brought me a little into line with all the millions of locals who have to do without such items.

I treated myself to a proper taxi from Chennai central station, from the pre-pay booth, rather than the usual auto rickshaw, and was soon in my hotel.
I dashed off a message to Nick, fortunately my laptop was hidden amongst the dirty washing, and then set out to buy my medicines. I was lucky to see a chemist very near the hotel, and bought items that were as near to my prescriptions from home as I could find.

Nick came over in the evening, we had a bit of a chat and then went for a nice meal. He invited me to attend an “Idol Immersing” event at a nearby beach the next day, and also to hear some Indian music and singing in the evening, which I did.

The Idol Immersion event consisted of lots of local districts creating their own giant Indian god statues, bringing them to the beach in a procession of trucks, and then placing them in the sea. They are meant to be soluble, but some looked rather more glass fibre than papier mache ! All the while there are announcements, firecrackers, drumming, dancing and bell ringing going on. Quite a carnival air! Nick kindly lent me his camera so I could grab a few pics.
A series of loudspeaker prayers or announcements was being made, and at some point a guy came up and said to Nick that he had been spotted and was being praised for wearing traditional local attire...
Nick went up to the platform and received a blessing from a sadhu monk person, which was nice!
In the evening we attended a music event, Nick drove us there. Boy! A very good driver, I could not cope with such a mass of traffic, animals and humans, all keen to chuck themselves in front of his car!

The music was interesting, it turned out that the original concert had to be postponed, so we were attending something else.
One of the trio of instruments was an earthenware pot, a proper musical instrument, which made an astonishing range of sounds for such a basic concept.
We finished the evening off with another nice meal, and Nick kindly dropped me off at my hotel.

Monday morning I headed for the train station in a auto rickshaw. I was puzzled to see the driver slow right down behind a cycle cart on a hill... The driver put his foot on the rear of the cart, and revving up, he gave the old bloke a free boost up the hill! I needed to see about getting my train tickets replaced. I was able to do this with relative ease, given the Indian liking for bureaucracy, and considering I needed seven tickets.

On the way back, I got an auto from the station pre-pay booth, and they sat a blind guy in beside me too, whom we were giving a free lift to help him out.
Sadly the auto driver got a bit tangled up in traffic jams on the way back, which was not much fun, sat stationary amongst a mass of engines pumping out exhaust gas for ages!

This afternoon I walked to a nearby camera shop and purchased a replacement camera.
The lady who served me was good fun, and she checked it was in working order by taking a snap of me in the shop.
Back to the hotel and a bit too tired to take Nick up on his suggestion of another music event.

Tomorrow evening I head off to Rameswarum, a bit of land that juts out in the sea towards Sri Lanka. There is an interesting temple there, and a rail bridge that crosses quite a long span of sea, so I hope that new camera will perform, I must read the instructions sometime!

THE "BOAT MAIL" TRAIN TO RAMESWARUM...

On my previous visit to Chennai, I had been inspired to visit by Paul Theroux’s description of the “ice house”, a place where ice was stored after being shipped from America, in the days before refrigeration. Unfortunately, I had chosen to visit on a holiday day, so it was closed.
This time I chose to visit during the 3 hour long lunch break, so it was closed again. I think fate is telling me something... Probably to do more research next time !
As before, I crossed the sand to the sea instead, and sat a while watching the surf, before the heat drove me to seek shelter.

The hotel owner in Chennai kindly allowed me to use my room free of charge for this last afternoon, so I was able to check out much later and head straight for Egmont station, which serves trains to the south of the city.
I arrived there by auto about 8.30pm, plenty early enough for my 9.40pm “Boat Mail” train departure. The name a reminder of the former sea crossing between India and Sri Lanka.
I had arranged to leave my larger suitcase at the hotel, until I return in a few days, which was a blessing. I checked online which platform I would need, and there was a bright neon indicator board confirming I was in the right place.
Purchased some water and a packet of crisps, more to get some small change than to satisfy hunger pangs. Having bought the crisps I sat and ate them. I stood up to put the bag in the bin ten feet away, and my seat was immediately taken by someone... I can see now why folk just drop their litter!
A couple of trains departed from the platform, then ours was shunted in. I had checked online the composition of the train, and knew my coach, HC1, was towards the rear.

I was the first to reach my coach, I was allocated an upper berth in 1st class room “B” one of four berths in that room. I booked a 1st class as it was the last e-ticket available at the time.
My companions were an elderly couple, who spoke “Indian English”. We managed to exchange a few words, but between different accents and background noise, it was mostly smiles and nods. Another younger lady was in the other upper bunk, she spoke less accented English, so she helped the conversation along. The two women spent the time chatting after they discovered they lived in the same town.
A very attentive young man was our coach attendant, and put all the others so far to shame, he was very keen to help make up the beds, and came and announced when our stops were due.
This train has no pantry car, and the only vendors that came through were chai wallas who boarded at a few station stops. Felt a little odd not to have offers of food of some description, possibly this was due to the late evening departure time.
I had plenty of food and water, so no worries.
Strangely, there were no loops under the bottom berths to secure baggage to, on this train. Maybe because there is a door lock to 1st class cabins, which we didn’t actually lock.
I secured my case to the fold out table bracket, and kept my important stuff in secure trouser pockets.
Not a great nights sleep. Quite pleased when the other 3 alighted at about 7.30am, as I had the cabin all to myself now, and could lounge about and still enjoy the views.
Passing through areas of rice cultivation, we eventually came to more dry sandy soil as we reached the coast. I noticed many trees that looked drought ridden, all the lower sections of leaves looked grey and dead, although this may just be a normal part of that type of tree’s growth cycle.
Spotting the sea in the distance, I went to the train door and opened it in order to grab a few photos as we crossed the bridge to the island. Very strange sensation to look down from the open door, and see water flowing under the train. As well as the single track train bridge, there is a road bridge and the remains of a previous bridge, which was destroyed in a cyclone.
Auto to my hotel, driver spoke good English. After protracted negotiations, as usual, I paid more than locals do, but sometimes it is worth remembering that I am arguing over a paltry 20 pence extra!
My hotel is about 3km away from the main temple. The hotel describes itself as a “pilgrim hotel”, but despite this, it is quite a posh place, if a little devoid of personality.

Although tired, I decided to visit the temple and make my way there in an auto. Very hot today, I am leaking gallons from my skin! I have taken to carrying a small towel with me, to mop my face and head, as some locals do.
The temple here has a large number of bathing tanks, where pilgrims take a ritual dip to expunge their sins, or to bring good fortune. The large outer towers which are covered in statues of deities, are painted a yellowish sandalwood colour, rather than the riot of colours seen on some temples.
One leaves footwear outside, and after a rudimentary security check, one is admitted to the interior. Photography is not allowed inside, and some areas are off limits to non Hindus. One feature of the temple are the long main corridors, supported by many carved stone pillars. Some of these are brightly painted near the entrance, but left plain in other areas.
The floor is rather wet all through, from folk using the bathing tanks, and the experience underfoot was not good, with rather manky strips of uncomfortable wet non slip matting. I did not stay over long and emerged to reclaim my sandals, with feet considerably dirtier than when I entered.
I was sad not to be able to photograph the interior, so took a few shots outside, then had a stroll to the nearby sea shore, where some folk were enjoying a dip. Many fishing boats at anchor here. I have been looking for a sun hat to replace the one stolen, and parted with a modest sum for a silly straw version, but which at least protected my balding head from the fierce heat. Quite a traditional seaside selection of tat on sale to entice the pilgrims, and me. I gave a few rupees to an old woman who was begging nearby.
Back to the hotel for a shower and a late afternoon sleep, which was achieved, despite the music blaring from a loudspeaker nearby... I think there is a Hindu ceremony going on today, much loud music and chanting everywhere!

Return trip to Chennai...

I had a very good nights rest, and awoke rather later than is usual for me. I took my time packing, enjoying the a/c in the room. This hotel has no wifi in the rooms, only in the lobby, so I managed without it for the short period I was in Rameswarum.

Noon check out, but train not 'till 5pm, so I sat in the lobby reading for an hour or two, before venturing out. I had only gone 20 feet when one of wheels on my case started to disintegrate, fortunately, it is the smaller lighter case. An auto screeched to a halt as the driver saw me. His existing passenger was bundled into the front to sit with the driver, and I was given the back seat. It was not too well fixed in, so I had the interesting feeling that I might fly out of the auto, with seat and luggage, at every tiny bump and corner. Thankfully, we arrived at the station unscathed.

I sat and watched the world go by, a welcome breeze was blowing through the station, so I felt quite comfortable.
A gent nearby struck up a conversation. The family was visiting the temple from Bihar. He mentioned that Rameswarum was a very important pilgrimage site. Their train was due to depart before we had chance to talk much more.

I bought the usual bottled water for the train journey ahead, and took a few snaps of the station while I waited to board. Being at the rear of the train on the way here, the HA1 coach was now towards the front, so I headed there. These Indian trains are pretty long!
I spied my name on the door chart, and was pleased to see that I had a lower berth for the return journey. B cabin, 1st class section again. I was the only passenger in my cabin as we pulled out of the station. I soon made my way to the door, in readiness for the bridge crossing again, and took a few more pics... Open sea is not the most interesting scene, I fear !

Shortly I was joined by a jovial portly gent, and we chatted on and off until it was time to sleep. He had worked in Dubai, and other middle eastern countries for an American company, and also spent two years in London.
Although married, he seemed to have an eye for the girls, according to his tales, and had very much enjoyed his former “international” lifestyle.
He explained that he was working on a project to create a restaurant brand where each dish would contain natural ingredients to enhance the sex drive, and so to bed... he was at pains to mention that these ingredients, if consumed by a man without a partner, would not lead to ladies being attacked!
He gave me a non aphrodisiac banana from his dinner, at least it had no noticeable effect, thankfully!
A very enjoyable and entertaining encounter!
We were joined by two others later in the evening, one of whom decided to watch video without headphones late into the night, and early in the morning. Twat!
Arriving back at Chennai Egmont station at about 7am, I try to get an auto to the hotel for the same amount I paid to get there... Bloke insists it will be Rs.200. I stuck at Rs80, and found another guy to do the trip for that. Hooray, saved a few pence!


Folk are encouraged to visit the website below, click on my signature in blue... The Journal has pics at last!

Ed.
 
Another interesting chapter Eddie, thanks for sharing!

I'm curious about what sort of lock or tie you use to secure your belongings? Thief's everywhere have amazing abilities to rip off people and their posessions no matter what precautions we take!

I can't see any link to your blog with the pics, using my Phone with Chrome??????
 
I'm sorry to hear about the "disappearance" of your bag, does one report that or just live with it?

The bridge over the sea has long fascinated me - from the photos it appears to be very shallow (which would make sense for a bridge) but also filled with rip rap for the bridge as well. You're bolder than I would be standing right at the door like that. I wonder if they'll ever build the long speculated bridge to Sri Lanka?

My friends in Chennai have a Ganesh collection, I wonder if they were at the ceremony (would have been very coincidental to see them in your pictures).

Anyways, I am enjoying reading about your travels and hope that nothing further untoward happens on them!
 
At present there is no plan to build any bridge to Sri Lanka. It is politically fraught due to the past Tamil insurgency in Sri Lanka. They are unlikely to like easy access from Tamilnadu state of India to Sri Lanka.

As for reporting a theft like that, one might want to do it if required to make an insurance claim. Most likely nothing else will come of it.

It is imperative that you use bike lock and chain to chain your bag to a fixed structure, or actually sit on it in second class.
 
Eddie--

I am continuing to enjoy reading about your adventures, and was able to connect to the pictures, which are lovely.

But--whoever stole your bag had a lot of nerve, and how dare they steal your signature sun hat! :angry:

First the camera, then the bag--hope this doesn't keep up, or you will give a whole new meaning to the phrase "travel light"! :p
 
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