Is it possible to get good photos from a Superliner?

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user 6862

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This is a double question.

Is photography through train windows of good quality or are there points that it's possible to photograph with a window open or even from a platform? (you can tell have never ridden an Amtrak train as yet).

I use a good quality camera frequently (although I wouldn't say I am good at it). Is taking a high value camera worth the effort or am I asking for trouble? Is it best to just take a nice quality compact camera and not have to worry about security?

As always, thank you.
 
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You will not be able to open a window or stand on an open platform. They are all closed while the train is moving. On some trains there are lounge cars (sightseer lounge) with large windows. I don't have that much personal experience, but from reading other posts, the windows may or may not be totally clean. Only you can decide if taking pictures through windows is worth the hassle of taking your best equipment or not. Hope that helps some-
 
I have some decent ones. I guess it depends on the time of day and how clean the windows are. My windows were "cleanish" - had some spots and film on them. Make sure you are not focusing on the window itself. Take many pictures. Sometimes it takes a bunch to get one good one.

I have a Nikon DSLR with a polarizing lens cover.

I did run these through Photoshop and sharpen a bit.

This was on the Zephyr - between Denver and Fraser.

SKI2011BARB038editMedium.jpg


SKI2011BARB026editMedium-1.jpg
 
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Shooting through the regular windows works better than through the dome: less distortion and reflection. Pictures taken away from the sun work best. I use a Nikon DSLR and a 12-24 mm wide angle lens. The wide angle lens reduces the apparent movement of the train and allows sharper pictures. I have a 24x36 enlargement of the wonderful eastern Montana plains taken from the Empire builder.

It can be frustrating in areas with a lot of trees, as there's always a blurred tree in your viewfinder just as you snap the picture. I've often used the "rapid fire" mode of the Nikon to resolve this. 10 pictures per second, and maybe one will be clear of obstacles.
 
I use a good quality camera frequently (although I wouldn't say I am good at it). Is taking a high value camera worth the effort or am I asking for trouble? Is it best to just take a nice quality compact camera and not have to worry about security?
Aloha
Only you can answer this question.

I tell people and have learned from pros that the only way one can take/make good photographs is to be comfortable with your equipment.I use a larger more expensive camera because doing so helps me keep the camera steady, and gives me more options to create an image I like. My signature links to my photo gallery.

I have also learned that buying better quality equipment is cheaper than low priced gear as usually lower priced gear does not break as easily.
 
GG-1 I just looked at some of your pictures and decided my next western trip is definitely gonna be on the Zephyr (again). It's just that simple.
 
These posts do answer my questions very well, spent quite a time reading and looking and again thanks to everybody for your input.

Just have to decide on which camera to take.
 
Many of our train photos have been good- so it is worth it to take photos. We use a small digital camera.
 
Two alternatives also would be using a lens shade pressed to the window which helps with the glare from interior lighting. Also, since the retro look is in, just use a smart phone with the filtering. This way any image degradation from a dirty window can contribute to the "filtered" look which is all the rave these days.
 
the "filtered" look which is all the rave these days.
And, in my opinion, a detriment to a good photo. I'd rather see the window dirt. It's more real. If I want old sepia tinted (with dust spots on them) pictures I'll look at ones from 100 years ago.
 
I have some decent ones. I guess it depends on the time of day and how clean the windows are. My windows were "cleanish" - had some spots and film on them. Make sure you are not focusing on the window itself. Take many pictures. Sometimes it takes a bunch to get one good one.

I have a Nikon DSLR with a polarizing lens cover.

I did run these through Photoshop and sharpen a bit.

This was on the Zephyr - between Denver and Fraser.

SKI2011BARB038editMedium.jpg


SKI2011BARB026editMedium-1.jpg
I love these shots, especially the freight startling the climb. You can just feel the locos putting the "pedal to the medal".
 
Yeah, no matter how small I would make it, the image host would try to re-size it to 640, *shakes head. Frantically trying to fix it before anyone noticed! FAIL!
 
Yeah, no matter how small I would make it, the image host would try to re-size it to 640, *shakes head. Frantically trying to fix it before anyone noticed! FAIL!
Many on the forum should read this thread, again.
Yeah it's kind of confusing. Says no linking to personal sites, but many people link to personal photo galleries? Isn't that a personal site? My photo gallery is on my personal site... now what? :help:

I think some of the subtle differences from a "big" camera and P&S pocket camera are lost in the names. A DSLR or even a Bridge camera (in between more like a rangefinder) have one big advantage of less shutter lag. You take a photo and milliseconds later the camera makes an exposure. The pocket cameras, point and shoot, you push the button, it thinks, focuses and then takes a photo. By then, what you were looking at, is gone. LOL

You don't have to spend allot to have a good camera for travel. Sure interchangeable lenses are better, but even an entry level T4i with a nice kit lens, will run around $1150 at B&H or Adorama. By the way, the places that offer substantially lower prices than these two, are usually scams and you want to avoid them.

But next step down from a DSLR could be a Canon G15 which is a bridge camera, built in lens, 28-140 zoom lens. I don't know Nikon, if you like them better they make good cameras too. Olympus has some nice super zoom and bridge cameras, Sony... but the G15 offers 10 frames per second shooting, 1080p video, 1.8-2-8 lens (fast enough for low light) and it's $499 complete. Not a pocket camera, larger sensor and you would have to have big pockets.

Turn off the lights in the cabin to reduce glare. Tinted windows should make no difference if you have auto white balance set. The rubber Sun shade is a good and useful idea. Also a circular polarizing filter can help, it's more than slapping it on, you will need to know how to set it to work best. It's not rocket science, but it's also not automatic.

Motion blur isn't necessarily a problem, it can add to the motion effect. Panning along with the motion is the best way to have your subject sharp and the background show that you are traveling. Things are moving outside the train, pan along with what you are shooting and you will have better photos.

High ISO means more noise in the shadows, but you lose speed. More depth of field, smaller aperture, means slower shutter speeds, but you need to stop the motion from blurring everything or having juggles. Change one and the others change.

Everything is related to everything else, distance, speed, ISO, focal length, distance to the subject... there's no one setting that does everything, you need to make decisions about what's most important for each shot.

Last tip. Electrons are free. Memory cards are cheap, have at least two. Use rechargeable batteries and have a spare set. Take at least three times what you think you need. The delete key is your friend when you get home. Toss the mistakes and fails, save the good ones. It's better to have too many shots, than to have missed the one you wanted. If you have any doubts, take two of everything.

Have Fun! Experiment.
 
Yeah, no matter how small I would make it, the image host would try to re-size it to 640, *shakes head. Frantically trying to fix it before anyone noticed! FAIL!
Many on the forum should read this thread, again.
Yeah it's kind of confusing. Says no linking to personal sites, but many people link to personal photo galleries? Isn't that a personal site? My photo gallery is on my personal site... now what? :help:
No, it says:

Pictures should also not be used to link to personal websites as a way of promoting them.
What that means is that someone clicking on your picture should not find themselves entering a promotional site where you are trying to sell something or otherwise benefit from the fact that someone clicked on that photo. People were putting pictures in their signature in a way that linked back to a website promoting or selling stuff when you clicked on that picture.

If you're selling pictures at that site, that would be a no-no. If you were selling a book at that site and the person clicking on the photo was taken to a page advertising the book that would be a no-no. If you had setup a railfan website and were trying to drive traffic (hits) to your site, that would be a no-no. But a link that just takes one to Flicker, or a link to one of your photos on your site that happens to fit with the topic of conversation is more than fine. If there are no Ad's from which you make money on your site full of photos, even linking to the entire site would be permitted; provided that there wasn't something odd going on or on that page.
 
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I have some decent ones. I guess it depends on the time of day and how clean the windows are. My windows were "cleanish" - had some spots and film on them. Make sure you are not focusing on the window itself. Take many pictures. Sometimes it takes a bunch to get one good one.

I have a Nikon DSLR with a polarizing lens cover.

I did run these through Photoshop and sharpen a bit.

This was on the Zephyr - between Denver and Fraser.

SKI2011BARB038editMedium.jpg


SKI2011BARB026editMedium-1.jpg
I love these shots, especially the freight startling the climb. You can just feel the locos putting the "pedal to the medal".

I do like these photos, go back to them every day or so in particular the second (freight) one.
 
High ISO means more noise in the shadows, but you lose speed. More depth of field, smaller aperture, means slower shutter speeds, but you need to stop the motion from blurring everything or having juggles. Change one and the others change.
Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're trying to say here (I haven't had my coffee yet!), but higher ISO gives you more speed, not less (in addition to more noise, although I'm comfortable shooting up to 3200 on a regular basis, and 6400 still gives reasonable results).
 
I have a Nikon DSLR with a polarizing lens cover.
You're already forced to increase the f-stop to compensate for the tinted windows and then you're further increasing the f-stop to compensate for the polarizing filter? Everything an optical polarizing filter provides can be done at least as well in post without compromising the exposure. Filters are not designed or built to be lens protectors anyway. If you did anything harsh enough to seriously damage the filter it would probably damage the lens as well.

Shooting through the regular windows works better than through the dome: less distortion and reflection.
Actual domes with thick curved class do have lots of distortion. However, Amtrak does not really have true domes in the traditional sense. I think the number one problem these days isn't the curve of the windows so much as the heavy tint, dirt accumulation, and plexiglass replacements.

Pictures taken away from the sun work best. I use a Nikon DSLR and a 12-24 mm wide angle lens. The wide angle lens reduces the apparent movement of the train and allows sharper pictures.
If you want really sharp wide angle pictures with no hint of blur I'd suggest choosing a quality prime with a huge aperture and pairing it with a full frame sensor. If the cost is too high I'd suggest going used with both.

It can be frustrating in areas with a lot of trees, as there's always a blurred tree in your viewfinder just as you snap the picture. I've often used the "rapid fire" mode of the Nikon to resolve this. 10 pictures per second, and maybe one will be clear of obstacles.
On a real dome car you can see what's coming and prepare your shot well in advance. However, on a regular Amtrak car you have zero advance notice of anything coming down the track unless you've seen it all before and memorized where everything of importance is located. That makes finding and executing quality photo opportunities much harder than it would be with a true dome car.
 
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I have a Nikon DSLR with a polarizing lens cover.
You're already forced to increase the f-stop to compensate for the tinted windows and then you're further increasing the f-stop to compensate for the polarizing filter? Everything an optical polarizing filter provides can be done at least as well in post without compromising the exposure. Filters are not designed or built to be lens protectors anyway. If you did anything harsh enough to seriously damage the filter it would probably damage the lens as well.
This is not always true. Some times the the reflection off water and other surfaces prevent getting an image. Additionally, Many Pro's use Optical Glass filters for lens protection if there is no need to adjust the incoming light. And while many things can be done in post, the better the beginning image the better the final result.
 
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I have a Nikon DSLR with a polarizing lens cover.
You're already forced to increase the f-stop to compensate for the tinted windows and then you're further increasing the f-stop to compensate for the polarizing filter? Everything an optical polarizing filter provides can be done at least as well in post without compromising the exposure. Filters are not designed or built to be lens protectors anyway. If you did anything harsh enough to seriously damage the filter it would probably damage the lens as well.
This is not always true. Some times the the reflection off water and other surfaces prevent getting an image. Additionally, Many Pro's use Optical Glass filters for lens protection if there is no need to adjust the incoming light. And while many things can be done in post, the better the beginning image the better the final result.
Why would a professional use a polarizing filter with a digital sensor while taking a moving shot through tinted glass? Nothing about that adds up.
 
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