report on my odyssey

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swamp

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I am reporting in as I promised after my 8,000 mile, 5 leg/4 train trip. I went from Martinez via CZ to Chicago, then LSL to Boston, then LSL to Chicago (4 day layover), Empire to Seattle (2 day layover) then Starlight to Martinez. The following is my experiences and impressions.

We were in the accessible room due to my wife. The room was comfortable, basically a standard with the other half for toilet and wash basin. The toilet was nice to have, but my wife threw me out of the room when in use (she's a bit modest about such things). Since the lounge car was always full, I spent a lot of time looking out of the door windows. Being downstairs is a definite disadvantage for viewing. Any amount of shrubbery or dirt mound blocked the view. If you have a choice, get a room upstairs. Also another disadvantage was having the all the car bathrooms outside our door---continuous door slamming along with a variety of odors! But we were grateful Amtrak has handicap rooms, so not complaining.

We started off on time, but lost an hour by Reno. Did have an amusing experience while eating lunch. We were stopped at Colfax waiting for passengers. The table ahead of me had a man and women and two small girls. In a voice, that only a little girl could emit, the girl asked ' mommy, what are those dogs doing?' Everyone at our table heard it, looked at the girl, then in the direction she was looking. Sure enough, there were two dogs mating. The red faced mom, mumbled something about them playing. The 8 of us at the two tables tried to look at our food without glancing at the canine pornography outside. Blessedly the train moved on, leaving our animal friends to their sinning ways. I do swear that one of them smiled at me as we left! I was wondering if this was some kind of omen for the trip, but it died there.

The trip was relatively smooth, with great scenery in the rockies. We had a wonderful attendant named Tony (female). She couldn't have been more helpful to my wife, and my wife has written a letter to Amtrak complimenting her. We lost time continuously, so 2.5 hours late in Denver and finally 3.5 hours late in Chicago. Had 4 hour layover so made the LSL, but barely. The LSL is another story!

Trip from Hell---LSL. That was the roughest 24 hours I have ever spent. The car attendant announced she would lead all of us to the Dinner at 6:00, which she did. So at 6:00, like a mother duck and her ducklings, she took us to the Dinner (7 cars away). But we looked like a bunch of drunks doing the Congo line dance, as we ricochet off of walls, windows, doors and whoever was in our way. By the time we reached the dinner, all of us were rubbing some bruised spot somewhere. Drinking coffee was a real challenge. I have to hand to the staff, they did ok. They must hire them from a circus. And sleeping was nearly impossible. I would have slept better sleeping in a cement mixer. The handicap room was nice, having a separate room for toilet and shower. Using the shower was an impossibility as you couldnt stand to shower due to the jolts, so we smelled in Boston. The Trip back to Chicago was the same!

We really enjoyed Chicago, and I was impressed indeed with downtown Chicago. They have really beautified the area. We stayed at the Wyndem

hotel,which was right in the middle of most spots to go. We were within a half hour walk (my wife has a motorized cart) to everywhere but the museums. The navy pier was fun, walked the Gold coast area, the michigan street area and navy pier area. Cab rode to the Field museum (China exhibit) and the great Science and Industry Museum. Anyone with children, the latter museum is a must. It is the most kid friendly museum I have been to. The food everywhere was great and ample. Went to Ditka's and had their pot roast. Reasonable and plenty. Saw Mike Ditka there signing autographs, but I am not an autograph seeker, so sat there and continued eating. The Chicago Pizza at Giordano was delicious and too much to eat

We particularly enjoyed seeing all the young people out a night eating on the sidewalk cafes. Where Rush St diagonally intersects State street in the Gold coast area, exists a small park. There is a coffee latte stand there and some tables. All around the park are outside eating and drinking, packed with mostly young people; having a blast. It was a 70 degree night with a mild breeze. We spent two hours there, people watching. Even met a plain clothes detective having a coffee. We talked for about 30 min. Chicago is a must stop. Would suggest anyone going through Chicago, stop there for a day or two (except maybe in the dead of Winter). Also breaks up the trip, and eliminates conncection worries. The cubbies were out of time--too bad.

The empire Builder was the exact opposite of LSL. The ride was as smooth as you could ask for, never more than 5 minutes late at every stop I was awake, and the personnel pleasant and helpful. The scenery is also great, maybe a shade less than CZ. That leg is what all legs should be. If it was so, there would be no complaints about Amtrak. No canine porn on that trip. We stopped at Seattle for 2 days. Stayed at the Alexis (a small boutique hotel 2 blocks from the water front and 4 from Pikes place and Pioneer Village) It was a nice hotel and not too expensive. We were not overly impressed with Seattle, but was ok. At night, the derelicks really come out, even in the high tourist areas.

The coastal Starlight was scenic, but approached the LSL in roughness in some areas. The only complaint was a really rude attendant named Mike. He was a coach attendant on his first time in a sleeper. He looked disgusted everytime someone asked him to do something. He told us, and others, that he was tired of being a servant Nobody asked him anything out of the ordinary, but his attitude really stunk! He made a big issue everytime he brought a meal (twice) to my wife, and wanted to know why she couldnt walk up the stairs to the dinning car. We were in the handicapped room for a reason. My wife is going to write a letter to Amtrak about him too.

Synopsis:

1. Empire the best, followed by CZ the Starlight and last and surely least, LSL

2. I would strongly urge anyone with a spinal problem to reconsider taking the LSL. The jerks and jolts where sharp and strong. It could be risky. I am an orthopedic surgeon of 40 years, so I speak with some authority. The other three trains where delightful and I would recommend them.

3. Would recommend stopovers if possible. Takes the stress of worrying about conncections away, and gives you an opportunity to see the sights.

4. Dont get a room downstairs unless you have to. The viewing is much better above. Got Tired of peek a boo scenery.

5. Enjoyed our trip, and will go again.

PS. While in Martinez, waiting for my daughter to pick us up, the CZ stopped on the way to Chicago. A man either jumped or fell out of the door as the train was leaving (going about 15MPH--estimated by the station attendant). He hit the back of his head on the concrete platform. He was unconscious when we got there. 911 was called and the ambulance took him away, still unconscious; with other symptoms, that I will not go into. It was terrible and am going to try to find out whether he made it or not. If his was wife was unboard, what an ordeal that must have been as the train continued on.

Thanks for you patience. Hope this was of interest

Swamp
 
Great report - nice details - Thanks!!! Bummer about the LSL and about the passenger that was injured... Interesting about the vast difference in quality of ride - I wonder how much is roadbed/rail conditions and how much might be attributed to equipment. But if the walk from the sleeper to the diner was rough through several cars, one would assume it was at least mostly the fault of the track conditions.
 
Sorry about the ruff ride, they were "supposed" to have done trackwork on the lsl route but csx probably decided it could hold out for another year. ;)

Anyways enjoyed reading the trip report.
 
Saw CSX doing quite a bit of re-aligning and ballasting in the Berea, Ohio area yesterday while railfanning there. Trains were sounding and looking real smooth compared to the last time I was there.
 
This past week I was on the Auto Train and my family had a Family Bedroom. The view from there sucks, but at laest you can see out of both sides. The comfort of the ride in the room was magnificient.......

...... Until we started moving!!!!! There was not so much up and down bouncing as there was very rough sdie to side sliding and jerking and banging. Upstairs the ride is definetly smoother.

MY 2 CENTS
 
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